Search results

If the lever spins in the socket, chances are the pin or pins are sheared off or missing. Lift up the rubber boot and have a look. It's pretty simple under there, if the setup is like a bigger truck transmission.

i believe we could pull just the cover on a 5-speed (with 4-speed auxiliary box) and the rails slide out, after loosening the fork set screws. Not sure how the tractor is set up. Not only the notches in the rails but the rails themselves AND the grooves in our cast iron covers would eventually...

And another place that wore fast was the pin or pins at the top of the shift tower. These pins hold the shift lever in and also kept it from rotating, so the stinger stayed straight, down there in the shifter rails. They were very easy to remove and replace, and indeed, they need to be removed...

Dman has it right. I was a mechanic for a fleet of dump trucks, hauling out of various pits located around several counties. The underpowered trucks were shifted a lot, hence a lot of wear on the rails and the stinger at the bottom of the shift lever. New drivers would get the forks jammed...

Another tip-FIRST get the rear of the wagon pointed where you want the rear to end up. Aim the rear of the wagon, you could say. It's easier with an empty wagon and even easier yet if the deck boards run parallel to the centerline of the wagon. Then you can see where the wagon is pointed, as...

As long as were talking about electrical faults, I'd like to say this: A SHORT is a quick way of saying a "short circuit to ground" and that's the only place a short goes--to GROUND, prematurely--before power gets to its intended load. Usually this condition results in a blown fuse or burned up...

I'll look into these--THANKS!

As far as D/L speeds for streaming, i had "up to 1.5" and it would barely work. Lots of buffering, and very blurry. i got the telco (TDS) to upgrade me to a business plan, which is "up to 5" and that streams VERY well. It starts out blurry for 10 seconds or so, then automatically "shifts" to...

When fuel temperature falls below what's known as the cloud point, parafin molecules start to turn solid and stick to each other. Anti-gel fuel treatment coats each molecule so it won't stick to its neighbor. BUT. The fuel treatment must be added before the molecules start to stick. Usually...

Darned if I know how my post ended up here, but not a bad place to post it.....

Fuel gelling is caused when parafin molecules get cold enough to stick to each other. This temperature is known as the "cloud point" because the fuel turns cloudy looking as the molecules start to stick together. Anti gel treatment surrounds each molecule of parafin with a coating that keeps...

No, if it's blowing a fuse, it's not a bad connection, dirty connection or loose connection. Those issues don't blow fushes. It is a short circuit to ground or an overloaded (not likely) circuit. Try replacing the fuse with a 12 volt headlamp. If the headlamp glows brightly, the circuit has a...

Just a shot in the dark here. With the tractor on flat hard surface, rock it back and forth. If there is discernible "gear slack" it may be in the transmission or other gears. If there is NO slack, look for brakes sticking, froze, applied, etc. Is it cold there? Perhaps water in the bottom...

On my 1754, there are 2 buttons on the dash, ahead of my left knee. One of them supposedly initiates a "regen" as indicated by the graphic on the button. The other button toggles between 3 screens: MPH, SOOT and OFF. If yours has this setup, try that button. (I " think" the button nearest...

The spindle housing, spindle, bearings and seals are not cast in one piece at the factory. They are assembled by man, from components, and as such, they can almost always be disassembled by man. Inside, you will find ball bearings and seals which are available from an electric motor shop or...

If you had been using the tractor with the temp going significantly higher than "normal" you may have thrown a little coolant out the overflow each time it got hot. As suggested, top it off and check the coolant level before each use. And, check the engine oil, not necessarily for the proper...

(y)

Detents usually consist of a hard pin (or hard ball) nicely rounded at one end, which drops into a groove or socket in an adjacent, sliding component, and held into said groove with a pretty stout spring, thus locking the sliding component in position. If the spring breaks, the pin will not...

Clean the radiator. When you think youre done, put a trouble light in behind the radiator, next to the fan blades. In the shop or on an overcast day, if you can't see the light, youre not done cleaning. Be advised that there are several layers of screens and cooling devices that all try to...

Yep, old has it right! Prop something like a piece of 2X4 about the right height under the bucket. You might be able to roll the bucket forward a few inches to take the weight off the loader. That will allow the ball check in the coupler to be moved off of its seat. You can verify whether...

I'm not sure how MY condenser is mounted, much less yours, but I recall from my Diesel Mechanic days that the AC condenser on our 9670 IH semi tractors was mounted in such a way so you could remove the mounting bolts and swing the condenser out of the way, like a door on hinges. No need to...

In a word, YES! The second (AC Condenser) will collect MUCH more chaff than the first radiator. When you think you are done cleaning, put a trouble light bulb behind the radiator, by the fan blades. Look in from the front. You should be able to see light thru the fins. If you can't, clean...

Yes, FOR SURE check air filter. You might even want to risk running it without a filter for a couple minutes if you are in a minimal dust environment. But with your symptoms, I doubt the air filter plugged up that fast. As stated above, Id suspect fuel deprivation, especially if there is no...

DanBick, no problem digressing to a different problem. I've been a truck mechanic for most of my working years. I started out in 1968 by attending a Vocational school for Diesel Mechanics and acquired a little experience in the ensuing 55 years. I suggest following my preceding advice...

That device will certainly tell you if your battery is bad, but I doubt that is your problem. If it were a weak battery, it would NEVER start, regardless of how many times you activated the key. Activating the key won't somehow make the battery stronger. Make or borrow a test light. A 12 volt...

While i have a 2016 Massey 1754 with DPF that still works perfectly, a friend bought a similar sized Mahindra at about the same time. Both have around 400 hours. He told me just just last week that his DPF had plugged up and regen wouldn't clear it enough to run satisfactorily. Said he had to...

I realize that the radiators on some of these tractors are difficult to access, but the second most common cause of overheating is a plugged up radiator, especially if you have a transmission cooler, air conditioner condenser, or after cooler for a turbo. That said, the most reliable way to...

I don't know where you live nor your recent weather and temps, but do you think it could be moisture-related? As in some rain getting around the vent, then freezing it shut? Shouldn't be much moisture INSIDE the unit, but I suppose it is remotely possible, as in humid air or rain splash being...

I've been in the truck-heavy equipment-diesel mechanic environment all my life. I'm trying to think of even one gearbox that wasn't vented. So far, no luck.

Around here, there's lots of firewood burned. "Buck" or "Buck up" means to cut the main stem into firewood length pieces, usually 16" to 24". "Trim out" means to cut off all the branches very close to the stem.

"Every Saturday night, if I need to or not." Or the old hermit that said, "once every summer, and not so often in winter."

^^^^^👍

Work platform to reach gutters, yard lights, tree branches. Throw a sheet of 3/4 plywood on the forks for a portable outside work table. Or run the riding mower or 4-wheeler on it and lift them to a comfortable working height, push mower too. Load empty pallets on wagon and pull to the woods...

My Dad used to say, " If you don't have it in your head, you have to have it in your heel." (back). I think it was a saying from the " old country" that probably rhymed in the original language.... If you shower in the morning, you have a position. If you shower at night, you have a job.

"So, you do feel like your 54 HP Massey could handle an 84" blower as long as your were able to properly match your speed with the load?" That answer is a very definite YES, because I can vary the speed from literally a few feet per MINUTE to about 3-4 MPH, just by pressing or releasing the...

I have a 72" wide front mounted blower on a 54 HP Massey. If you have a hydrostatic drive, you are fine with the wider unit, as you can just match ground speed to the depth of snow. Works like a charm on my set-up. In fact, I wish I had at least a 78" or even the 84", as the infinite drive...

Anyone know where I could source some of these IBC cage tank skids, preferably in Central Wisconsin?

I need some clue as to where an aftermarket male quick coupler tip might be available. The part number stamped on the tip is 5045016 with what looks like a W preceding the number. Looks like Massey thinks it's worth $34. Seems pretty steep to me. I edited this post to add that the female...

I somehow assumed that it was a system that the operator could activate as needed. Don't know how I arrived at that conclusion. If I were to develop such a system, it might have a master switch that could be placed in BYPASS or switched (locked?) into PROTECTED. Then one could choose when to...

I support the idea of temporarily bypassing some of those safety switches, especially all of them at once, like the "hard start" thing does. However, there are several easy, no-cost tests you cannperform first, if one knows how or can be coached thru the process. To test if the solenoid is...

Yeah, if it starts by jumping the solenoid, it's not a battery or battery cable or battery connection problem. It's a failure of the system to supply an adequate voltage signal to the solenoid. Somewhere back in this thread, someone suggested to check for full voltage at the SOLENOID terminal...

I learned a technique as a truck mechanic that doesn't need a pickle fork. Remove the nut completely. Hold an "anvil" behind the taper and briskly smack the front side of the taper. One or two whacks and the taper will just break loose and jump out. You may need to improvise on the anvil and...

Check the couplers first, slightly adjar would still function if the leaker were a return or non-gravity hose. Like the "lowering" hose.

Minnesota, I didn't mean that you should actually CONSTRUCT a road and cause catastrophic, permanent and irreparable harm--heavens no!! I am merely SUGGESTING that you keep driving into your swamp along the desired access area to pack the snow and grass so that it freezes. Surely no bureaucrat...

I suggest that to make a frozen road to your chosen location, that you use a 4-wheeler or UTV to pack down a track to the aforementioned location. Drive it out there and pack it down every time it snows. Be sure you go wide enough so you don't fall off when you take your tractor on it. By...

Seeing the way the solenoid connects up to the starter drive, I'll bet that the U shaped device is not correctly engaged, and when you pushed the solenoid IN, it pushed the solenoids "armature" in, which in turn (inadvertently) connected the 2 big terminals. As suggested, remove it and test by...

My theory on how heavy of a piece of iron needs to be is this: If you build it to heavy, you never know. If you build it too light, you WILL soon know. Conclusion: build it heavier.

I GUARANTEE you will love that front mount blower. Didn't notice if you have Hydrostatic drive but if you do, you are GOLDEN. I leave my loader on with the blower. I mounted a hydraulic-pressure rated ball valve in the lift arm line. Its just suspended on the hoses, but the mounting points...

Just for background context, my Diesel Tech instructor (1968) told the class on about the 3rd day: Black smoke is unburned fuel White smoke is low compression or water Blue smoke is lube oil Still remember that.....

I had the fortune to ride in the B-17 "Aluminum Overcast" in Appleton, Wisconsin during the EEA show in nearby Oshkosh several years ago. Its unbelievable how "unsubstantial" the frame and sheeting on that plane is. Pretty sure a baseball pitcher could throw a rock right thru the skin. It's no...

I have an LB White heater that occasionally has the pilot jet corrode up a bit and not provide a hot enough flame to energize the pilot system. You can fool the pilot a bit by using a propane torch to add more heat on the "bulb." Then let go of the button and see if the pilot will stay lit.

Here's a Wild, Wild WAG-- could you have a failed valve stem seal (or a crack or some other means) near the front of the engine, or in a location where run-off valve train lube oil could pool and/or run into the intake passages in the head, thereby entering the combustion chamber? Altho smoke...

Let me clarify the correct procedure for a voltage drop test using a DIGITAL volt meter. A voltage drop test seeks to show that the LOADED circuit is in fact, delivering the necessary amperage (power) at the necessary voltage. Since a digital voltmeter draws virtually NO power from the circuit...

I have an Agri-Fab, which is a box trailer with an 8-Horsepower motor on the tongue, running about a 16" blower, which is connected to the deck with a 6" hose. Its also very effective, getting the aforementioned 95% of the leaves in one pass, provided you go slow enough. In heavy leaves, I...

On my 1754, its extremely hard to see the fluid level in that little window. There is no dipstick from the factory and I doubt you could rig up something like a brazing rod or threaded rod to find the fluid level. I doubt if you could thread it down thru the casting to the correct fluid level...

An easy way to drain excess hydraulic fluid is to detach a hose on your loader, let's say the tilt cylinder hose, at the cylinder. Then start the tractor. When you're ready to drain, just move the appropriate hydraulic lever for the hose you disconnected. You can easily and neatly direct the...

It seems to me that if the control lever moves both sets of cylinders both in and out, the problem is not in the lever. That control lever has no idea where the cylinders are in their stroke. As long as all 4 cylinders extend and retract at least a couple inches, there is nothing wrong with...

I second what Bubba suggested, kinda. First thing I would do is make DaaM sure its in neutral, with brakes set TIGHT. Then, on the starter, jump the big terminal (from the battery) to the smaller, "activator" terminal with an old screwdriver or metal rod. Be ready for it to start, or at least...

"If no cold is produced, look for low refrigerant or faulty clutch." And hot-wiring the church would have produced NO COLD, so the logic reverts back to "mechanical" not electrical.

The idea of "hot wiring" the clutch is what I usually did first. If COLD was produced, the mechanics of the system, including clutch and refrigerant level, is good. The problem is in the electrical. If no cold is produced, look for low refrigerant or faulty clutch. I usually monitored the...

Case tractors in the mid-50s had down pressure on their proprietary "Eagle Hitch" system. I had a 1955 model 400 Case that I could place a block of firewood on end under the 3-point arm and lift one wheel or the other (or both) off the ground to install the tire chains. However, in the example...

bgr is exactly right on. In fact, folks who might attempt to troubleshoot a starter or charging system might even want to print out this procedure.

We removed every 12" board and 3" batton of vertical Red Cedar siding to replace all windows and add 1/2" of "DowBoard" insulation. We replaced the boards exactly where they came off of, and I used that canned foam to stop insects and vermin from using the 3/4" voids between boards as a...

My techy son tells me you can purchase an "over ride" module for the GM product, to plug into the OBD port. He guesses $40-50.

For those if you who insist that the AutoStop can simply be disabled in "Settings" or even with a switch, look into GMs system, like my 2018 Malibu or 2017 Buick Envision. That " feature" can NEVER be over-ridden! EVER! The only way to disable it is to shift into L1, then push the manual shift...

A technique I use is to put ALMOST adequate force on, for example, the bent lever via the 4-5 foot pipe suggested above. Put enough force on the pipe to almost bend it back. Then you need to add additional force EXACTLY where you want the bend to occur. Only takes a LITTLE BIT more force...

This isn't always doable, but if you have damaged threads in a casting, chase them as deep as you can, ending up with a bottoming tap. Then install stud(s) to the very VERY BOTTOM of the hole, utilizing every last thread you can. Mount your attachment on the stud(s) and finish with a good nut...

I didn't see a pic of the offending fitting but if you can get an "anvil" on one SIDE of the fitting and apply blows to the exact opposite side, against the anvil, the external threads will expand and the fitting will get loose. The anvil can be a foot or so of 1" shaft, and may need someone to...

Since opinions as to " clean" concerning the radiator vary, I suggest putting a trouble light bulb behind the radiator, next to the fan blades. Then go around to the front and look thru the core(s). You should be able to see the light. There may be an A/C condenser or hydraulic oil cooler in...

A variation on the shop vac strategy is to use a length of Sched 20 PVC for a 10' extender. The little buggers never figure out what the guy way over there has to do with the whistling stick that they are all disappearing into.

Since you are intending to get a new shaft made up, and several guys have mentioned that the front splined yoke was a bit short, (as is mine) I recommend that you measure from the face of the splined male power output shaft on the belly PTO to the face of the male splines on the carrier under...

I'm thinking air filter, also. If it hasn't been changed for a year or more, that's what I'd try next. Altho the air filter can go from brand new to plugged in a few hours in dusty conditions.

Yep, many times it's something minor and/or simple. Hard to even imagine that it ran perfectly fine yesterday and today the engine is "shot".

If someone put a even a small amount of gasoline in a diesel and it still runs, color yourself LUCKY!

To get the rotation right, rotate the hub while the rim stays stationary. Might be a 2-man job with a heavy tire. It would be really handy to have some way to hang a come-a-long from above, like from a beam or another tractor loader, propped up for safety, of course. Then the tire can be...

Can you get a good look at the 2 ports that are the Inlet and the Tank ports on your valve? The inlet could be labeled with a P (for pressure) or I (for inlet), and sometimes the words are actually embossed right on the body. Then maybe T or R for return to the tank. Try blowing into one of...

Take the wheel off and demount the tire. Then, place the rim flat on a cement floor. Get a 4-6 pound hammer and go to it. The rim bent once, it will bend again. If you are real concerned about paint and dents, use a hardwood block as a punch. It'll come, if you hit it hard enough. I would...

First thing to address when overheating is the fan belt. Make sure the fan really "roars" when at WOT. Try turning the engine over by hand, with the fan. The belt should only slip with some effort. Second thing is put a trouble light in by the fan blades. Do this inside or dim daylight...

DLTrekkers, Why don't you read the whole thread before you start throwing out baseless insults? Like, try reading Post #7, maybe?

I would go to the hardware store and buy 2 lengths of 1/4" chain, maybe 5 feet long each, and 2 grab hooks and 2 slip hooks-clevis attached type. (You will later find that 2 short, light chains with hooks are handier than pockets on pants around the yard, too) Then source a pipe (2" or 2 1/2"...

Here is a perfect opportunity to use this strategy...instead of replacing the fuse and having it blow repeatedly, wire in a headlight bulb in series where the fuse was. A couple jumper wires and alligator clips can get this hooked up. The bulb will only pass about 5 amps on a dead short, so it...

You sure? Sounds like a bad battery cable connection. With no load, you get full voltage, but try to pass some amps and nothing goes thru. Try your voltmeter right on the lead battery post itself, not on the clamp and see if the volts still fall when you call for lotsa amps. Check out both...

I had a thought about your alternator belt figment issue. Check that it is in the correct grooves on the other 2 pulleys--water pump/fan and down on the crankshaft.

Put a trouble light in behind the radiator, by the fan blades. Go around front and look in thru the fins from the front. Works best inside or on an overcast day. If you cant see light, more cleaning is needed....

I'm not sure you need that solenoid (heavy relay) on the side of the tractor. Whatever wire is supposed to activate that heavy relay when you attempt to start it from the key switch could (and almost always does) go direct to the small "activate" terminal on the starter. Is that something...

I had always thought that the "backfire" was ignited by a piece of red-hot carbon stuck to some part of the combustion chamber or exhaust valve.

This is an edit to what's written below. I re-read your initial post and saw that you replaced the starter and it made no difference. I'll leave this post up to hopefully help someone else in the future, but I suspect this will be of little value to you, the OP. Does the starter have a...

I don't want to be a nag, but can you see the trouble light thru the radiator core? 🙏🏻

Can you get to the alternator or crankshaft or someplace/somehow roll the engine a few degrees, to get to a better place on the flywheel ring gear? 8Sometimes you can get a socket or even a wrench on the alternator pully nut, then hold the belt tight and rotate the engine. Maybe park it...

Yup! Clean the radiator screen. If that isn't sufficient, get the tractor in a darkish shop and put a trouble light in behind the radiator, next to the fan blades. Go around front and look thru the radiator. If you can't see the light, your radiator is plugged. Or there is an oil cooler or...

To give you a simple answer to a simple question..... Propane pressure is linear to its temperature. Doesn't matter if in a 1# camping bottle or in the tank of a 8,000 gallon railroad car, or any size in between, including the 20 pound tank on your grill outside. It matters not if the bottle...

Here's my take on it..... It isn't a short, because the fuse doesn't blow instantly. I think it's an electrical overload. Second, it cannot be supplied with "too much power" or "too many amps" and I doubt the system has more than nominal 12 volts, and even if the volts were in the 15 volt...

If you're using a small test light for a fuse, be aware that any small, legitimate load will cause the bulb to glow brightly. With a "bigger" fuse, like a seal beam headlight, it takes more current to make it glow.

In Eau Claire, Wisconsin, in the fall of 1967, McDonalds hamburger were 15 cents, and the sign bragged "Over a Million Sold"

I second the suggestion to use a light bulb in place of a fuse (temporarily) to find a short. However, I used to use an old sealed-beam headlamp. These pass around 5 amps, which is not enough current to damage any components. An added benefit, as noted, is that when the short is active, the...

Seems the scrap dealers could take a pic of a table holding the cats, with the seller standing nearby, holding his drivers license or ID. Closeup of his license and couple fingerprints. An honest seller won't mind, and if the thief don't like it, leave. I know, another hoop for an honest...

Well, you name it whatever you want, but when I see a disc blade or a leaf spring, I'm gonna call it spring steel. And I guarantee that if you weld spring steel and make it hold, it will no longer be "springy" but "bendy" Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

Yeah, and where else can you learn this much for the price of a couple nickel rod?

Oh, and peening it also might help. A small ball peen hammer, medium blows, and lots of them for several minutes as it cools. This helps relieve shrinkage stress as it cools. In the case of that disc blade, I would try it, if you can source a couple nickel rods. Heck, it's good experience and...

Disc blades are "spring" steel and are not very weldable. Sometimes you can pre-heat and weld spring steel using multiple passes. The subsequent passes serve to "anneal" the spring steel, making it softer so it doesn't crack as easily. But, you destroy the hardness of it. Nickel rod would do...

When I welded cast, I used "nickel" rod. To weld it back perfectly, first get it into position by moving the pieces around until they "seat", then tack one side. THEN vee out the opposite side and weld it with one light pass. Now go to the tacked side and vee THAT side out, previous tack and...

Definitely put a patch over the hole, inside the tire. What can (and will, on semi tires) happen is, as the tire flexes, the cut will keep "nibbling" on the tube until it worries a hole in it. We used a patch that looked like a giant thumb tack. Prepare the inside of the tire with solvent...

And remember, your goal is to get that headlight bulb to glow pretty dim, if at all. If it's still bright, unhook some of the leads to the alternator to see how that affects the bulb. It could be that there is a problem in the ALTERNATOR itself, short circuiting to ground THRU the regulator.

If and when you get a new regulator, i would unhook the positive battery cable before installing the regulator. Then I would hook the previously mentioned seal beam headlight between the battery post and the cable, thereby limiting the maximum amps that are available to fry the "smoke" out of a...

Here's another variation on the circuit breaker strategy--use an old sealed beam headlight in place of the fuse. The headlamp will pass about 4-5 amps---safe for all but the smallest wire or most delicate switch terminals. You can also put the sealed beam in "series" with an unhooked battery...

I also encourage the cannoneer to drill to proper tap size, tap the hole to pipe thread (1/4-28 fittings are available) or 1/8"NPT, then try to push it out with a grease gun. If the volume behind the ball is large, fill with water or some less expensive liquid first, then pump it out. I'd face...

My favorite pet peeve is the guy who uses the right lane for his own personal passing lane, instead of vacating it to allow enterrers and exiters to do their thing. Then they get all butthurt and aggrieved when someone enters the lane doing 2 MPH slower than them and slowing them down...

Dave, that's a great idea. I'll be going to go to that system soon. Right now, I have a cut-of piece of paper clip inserted into the plug, then taped.

If the tractor will start with the PTO engaged, shut off the motor, engage PTO, then restart tractor.

It seems to me that a gauge tee'd into a pressure circuit would show little to no pressure until the system has a "load" placed on it. In this case, the steering wheel would have to be turned. Might need 2 people if the gauge can't be observed from the steering wheel area. But simply unhooking...

A couple more tests..... Can you UNHOOK the wire from the sender and leave it dangle ungrounded? (Key ON) Does that change anything on the dash gauge? Do you have a digital voltmeter? Can you detect voltage on the unhooked sender wire? Should be something there, but not necessarily 12...

Try rigging up a temporary ground from the negative battery post to the base of the fuel sender itself. I have seen a fuel tank lose its ground to the frame. i was a truck mechanic for quite a few years. Senders fail, wiring fails, the ground path fails, but the dash gauge VERY VERY seldom...

As an owner of a 54 HP cabbed Massey, go with the front mount blower. You will NEVER regret it. Mine has a hydrostatic, which is a power parasite at higher ground speeds, but it sure works good for snow-blowing. Almost as valuable as the cab, with heater! Mine was a bit over $41k, including...

I was a Class 8 (semi) truck mechanic for a large part of my life. When it came to overheating, 90% of the cause was a fan belt not gripping the pulleys or an externally plugged radiator core. The other 10% was thermostats, cracked heads, head gaskets, plugged core internally, impeller...

On an overcast day or inside a building, place a trouble light in behind the radiator, next to the fan blades. Then look in thru the rad from the front. You should be able to see significant light thru the core. If there is an extra cooler there, get that out of the way. I have seen (on...

Hers is what a clean radiator looks like....

There is a kit that pressurizes the radiator as well as checks the cap for proper pressure before it spits out into your broken pipe. It consists of a hand pump, a built-in gauge, a short hose and several adaptor caps to fit different radiators, as well as adapts to several styles of caps. You...

Pull one of the pins holding the suspect cylinder. Move it out of the way. If a helper is holding it, be prepared for it to move. Don't hold it in a way that could pinch his fingers or hand! Then use hydraulics to see if the OTHER cylinder will retract the bucket. GO SLOWLY! If the hoses are...

Several years ago, I bought a SSQA bare plate from EBay. It was surprisingly affordable, including shipping thru UPS.

Check that your quick-couplers are both seated correctly?

First, grab the fan blade by hand (engine of, of course) and see if you can make the fan turn without turning the engine. If you can turn the fan, tighten or replace the belt. This is the first, and easiest and cheapest test you can do. If the belt is driving the fan, you will hear a distinct...

I have a Fortress 1.2 HP 135 PSI "Ultra Quiet" compressor. It is ultra quiet. The contractor who changed my house windows has several. He swears by them.

I never liked them either, but then I don't consider myself "inexperienced". i mount the saw in a vise, then take a 4-inch grinder and remove each of those pieces of metal. Saves tossing a perfectly good new chain. And I was wrong about where these pieces attach--they attach to each "tie link"...

Safety Chain has extra pieces attached to the rakers. These pieces lay "flat" when the chain is on the straight part of the bar, but extend when the chain goes around the tip of the bar. It is also known as "anti-kickback" chain. When they extend, the nose of the bar won't cut, which is what...

I have scraps of foam insulation (I call it Dow board) stashed around the complex. A piece about 8" X 16-20" works great. 3/4" to 2" thick. One drawback is outside in the wind, they blow away if you get off...

It charges almost instantly. I can activate and deactivate mine as fast as I can push the button.

My Dad used this exact procedure a couple times, but he used an old over coat. Walked slowly up to the box trap with the coat shielding him. Gently and slowly laid the coat over the trap, picked up the trap, put it in the pickup and drove to a secluded area. Not sure how he opened the trap...

Some MBVs have "power to open" and a capacitor that charges while energized that closes the valve upon de-energization. (2-wire) Others (3-wire) have a continuous hot to the valve and an additional "activate" wire. Mine uses the first system--capacitor close. In addition, I have an underground...

To those of you that might be considering a solenoid valve tied to the lights to shut off the compressed air lines when not being used: Consider a "motorized ball valve" instead. The MBV will open or close, then needs no further electricity to maintain either position. A NC solenoid valve...

If you are uncertain about the slip-clutch adjustment, ask yourself this: does it make the engine labor when you engage the ground? If the clutch slips without loading the engine, it's set too loose.

I think the most effective action you can take is to to ACKNOWLEDGE your customer ASAP. Even if you are involved with another customer or on the phone, a simple wave of your hand or a nod will suffice to acknowledge your customer. Everyone wants respect, wants to feel he (she) matters. No...

DL, I can understand the confusion. Usually, "jumped" means to add an additional battery, via "jumper cables". When someone (I) uses the phrase "jump the solenoid" it means to connect the main starter lug, where the big battery cable connects to the starter, to the smaller terminal on the...

To further test just the alternator "no-charge" issue, first connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals, then connect a jumper wire to the +battery post and to the alternator output terminal. Note the battery voltage at rest, then jump the solenoid to start the engine. Note the difference...

I too would encourage checking out the battery ground and positive cables, but if the OP can start the tractor by jumping the solenoid, those components are OK. The above advice is spot on--start at fusible link 31. See if power exits at that device. If so, move downstream to the next junction...

I would recheck all your control levers and such. Perhaps your "safety system" will kill the engine if you call for forward movement and a parking brake is set, or something like that. Were you using PTO? (Should not affect this). I wouldn't be surprised if the seat safety switch needs to...

I can assure you that you have 10 times more tractor with the Case than an 8N....

I would also caution you troubleshooters that a digital meter is not always the best choice to check for voltage problems. A test LIGHT is much better in these situations. (An old tail light bulb and socket is my go-to test light) The problem with the digital meter is that it is so sensitive...

I figured out that piling wood was like hiring employees. Depending on where you place the big end and where it is in the pile, can make the pile better or worse. There's a best place for almost every piece. Employees are the same way- ya gotta find the best place to put them. And there are a...

Dave is absolutely correct that the pressure on the pump side of the circuit can be relieved by cycling the joystick with the engine off. Then you can EASILY prove that the pressure is relaxed, by depressing the poppet with a rod, punch, dowel, whatever. If it's relaxed, hand pressure will...

I suspect you had or now have a pretty good understanding of how BOTH of the poppet balls will factor into the successful completion of your coupling. Both sides must be relaxed. In the pic above, yes, the collar is not in the proper position to retain the male tip. And there's a very good...

Make sure you can depress the little ball or tip back into EACH half of the coupler. If you are successful, you should get a few drops of oil to leak out. You should be able to press those tips in with hand pressure, plus maybe a pad or leather glove to allow you to push a little harder. The...

The "somehow" is simply that the amps could not consistently jump the poor battery connection when you called for them. If you didn't, clean the other ends of the big cables, too. The click AFTER you turned OFF the key could be the "shut-down" solenoid/relay. That device gets energized for a few...

I think that if it's resistance via the hydraulic system, (the third function idea) that you could observe a slight movement of the fan/alternator belt during a start attempt. Have someone hit the starter while you watch for movement. PS. I don't have a third function, not positive how they...

If you suspect poor battery cable connections, one last-ditch test is to just hold the key in the start position for a while-10-20 seconds. Then go around and feel the battery posts, starter solenoid connections, the short jumper strap that carries power from the outbound solenoid terminal to...

I would be very lost without a good level indicator. When I work on making woods trails, I need to shave off a few inches here or there, and if the bucket is not curled EXACTLY right, you are digging down or rising up.

DL, If you disassemble a teflon taped fitting, you need to be really careful to remove ALL the scraps of tape left in the female part before reassembling. Some of those scraps are really small and hidden in the female threads but get pushed out of the thread by the male being advanced into...

DL, I have had them build up so much pressure I couldn't get the tip to go in with a HAMMER! I think the expansion of the fluid is multiplied by the volume, like everything thats in the hose and cylinder, and the bigger the cylinder, the higher the trapped pressure. I like cycledudes idea of a...

The problem arises when you unhook the hoses while it's relatively cold, then attempt to rehook them in warmer weather. Simply, the oil expands a miniscule amount in the hose/cylinder and the tip will not push in to allow recouplong. HayDudes method works if you remember to do it. I don't...

I've cut plenty of hydraulic rod on my HF bandsaw, with a cheap blade to boot. Absolutely no problem. The chrome plating is like a half thousandths thick. BTW, the rod is called CPO, which means Chrome Plated Outside

I'm throwing in with the theory that the smoke doesn't rise due to it being too cool. In which case, a fan won't suffer any heat damage. i like the idea of measuring the actual temp up there. Then you'll know....

To add a bit more to my "no tape" policy, most times, with careful application of tape, the first assembly is just fine. It is the subsequent disassembly and reassembly that pushes used tape ahead of the male part and into the oil-stream.

I will catch some flack over this, but I never use tape. Too much chance of a bit coming loose and causing problems. I only use the Teflon "dope" that comes in a tube and is available in most every big-box store.

I worked on a couple of my vises and the screw was always 4 TPI, no matter the diameter. 3TPI will yield less clamping force with same torque, and there will be more friction in your larger OD screw. I didn't even look for that coarse or that large a diameter of a nut, but when I found mine...

Well, it is never a bad idea to periodically do just this. Also, you are describing an intermittent issue, which can be caused by a poor connection elsewhere, not supplying sufficient power to operate the module. Use a wire brush and really get after the cable ends as well as the surface it...

I didn't see where anyone else brought this up, but have all 4 ends of the big battery cables been REMOVED, cleaned and re-installed?

Maybe look on the face of the movable blocks. Look for thread sizes, stamped in, like 3/8-16 or 1/4-20......

Look close inside the "jaws" for threads. If you see threads, these are probably "chasers" for cleaning up rusty or damaged threads. The top one looks like it has three different sizes, and the lower three items have 2 sizes each.

Give me tall narrow tires in snow every time. In soft dirt, not so much. Also, the taller tire has less rolling resistance. That's partly why the early Volkswagen cars in 194x something had those tall narrow tires. It may also relate to "bridging" potholes or other road imperfection. I don't...

You guys have it scoped out exactly right--simply introduce 12 volts from the battery to the smaller red wire on the starter solenoid. This can be done with a small (12-14 gauge) jumper with alligator clips on each end. What was not mentioned is VERY important--MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN...

Yeah, pretty sure that is the CHECK ENGINE light......

Speaking of seeing a building move being entertaining: We have lots of Amish around here--LOTS!! There was an operating Amish sawmill shed on the south side of a rural gravel road, couple miles from here. It was probably 30' by 50' I don't know why it became imperative that it be moved to the...

JWR and others: My humble apologies to JWR for misleading him and any others following this thread. I DO have a connecting shaft on my SSQA loader. Because the pin bolts are pretty sloppy, it APPEARED that there was no connection. I will attempt to attach a couple pics showing how far out of...

If I get "out of plane" what I end up doing is approach the bucket carefully, and check to see which arm is "forward" more than the other. Then initiate contact with the forward arm. Then either inch forward a bit more to force the forward arm back, (and simultaneously extend the laggard) or...

I must have the only orphan SSQA ever made. Even in this brutal cold weather (0*F) I can simply push one side back, by hand, and the other side comes forward. Pushing on one side forces oil out of one cylinder and into the other. Of curse, the bucket or forks are assumed to be de-mounted. In...

My standard advice in an over-heating issue is, first, grab a fan blade and try to rotate the engine. If the belt slips, there could be a problem. Just because it feels tight doesn't mean it's driving the fan at speed. At high idle, you should be able to hear a roar or buzz from the fan...

RedNeck, You are spot on with protecting the couplers from dirt and moisture by wrapping them. I did this when I worked for the County Highway Department, especially the couplers on the sander. I used paper towels, but cloth will also work. Squirt heavy oil on the coupler, then wrap with...

A way to approach this might be to follow the big battery cable going to the starter. Is that connection exposed? Could you get a pic for us?

Put it in NEUTRAL, then jump the solenoid. That bypasses EVERYTHING, including the ignition switch. Put it in Neutral!!!!

rv7charlie, Another quick VOM test is to hook the positive lead to the positive battery post and the negative to the copper starter motor post. Not the solenoid--the motor post. The meter will read zero or very near, as there is no potential for current flow. Now introduce the load (hit the...

If you want a simpler example of the how and why of a relay, look no farther than the key switch on your car. Would you want to run the positive battery cable up thru the steering column, thru your key switch, then back down to the starter? No, the key switch is merely the trigger for a...

They work the same way a light bulb filament works, but in slow motion. When you supply 110 volts to a light bulb, there is an inrush of current thru the filament. There is unlimited amperage available, but as soon as the filament gets (white) hot, (micro-seconds) resistance builds and...

I do believe there are some models of TANK heaters that incorporate an internal thermostatic switch which will turn the element ON or OFF, but it doesn't regulate (vary) the current flow.

I tried to edit to add another paragraph and lost the whole thing! I wanted to add that the element position has more to do with hot water rising (element loop should not face down) and especially, the element cannot touch any metal engine parts. That's why there are dozens of element shapes-to...

I still doubt that. Procure a block heater and immerse it in a small container of water (a soup can, small cooking pan) and plug it in. Pretty sure it will boil the water, and boil it hard, until it evaporates enough water to expose some part of the element, then the element will burn out.

Egan, I'm not sure if your definition of a block heater is the same as mine, but what I know as a block heater has NO thermostat (nor any other method of interrupting the current) in it. It is a straight, direct circuit as soon as it's plugged in, and keeps on heating until unplugged. Same...

You can't just "measure the frost plug diameter" and "buy one that fits." There's several variations for each diameter, depending on the length, thickness, and angle of the element, which is determined by how your block was cast. Some elements even have a bend in them, to accommodate the...

I am the guy with the video of "Just Yank em" hydraulic couplers on my MF tractor. I looked on the OEM tips, but there was no information to be seen. The attached pic is of a tip that interchanges, looks like Pioneer 4010-3P.

To whoever was interested in gas welding steel, I've done it quite a bit back in the day. I worked for a gravel hauling company and I didn't have access to an arc welder or generator in the pits. Yes, I've used coat hanger for filler rod. As far as getting it clean, its a non-issue, because...

Since we are relaying old "war stories" I'll tell you my experience. i worked for a construction company as a mechanic. (1975?) One day, the foreman tells me the D8 (Caterpillar bulldozer) has a split in a steel hydraulic line. The line was at least 1" diameter, maybe 1 1/4. Easy place to get...

Yeah, I think that type is expensive. Usually I've seen them on skid steers. I've attempted to couple those types several times and never succeeded. Another guy will come along and do it easily. I believe those are what are called "flat face". To install the "just pull to unhook" couplers...

I wouldn't know about their cost, as they came standard on the tractor. I have bought extra male tips and they were not noticeably more expensive. And I suspect they are not much different than a "two-way collar" type. It's just that the collar is made to be the mounting point, simply...

Many thanks to grsthegreat for posting this. For some reason, I thought every later model Massey had these couplers. Guess I gotta get out more.....

Hey grs, if YOU had the video, could YOU post it to YouTube? I can email it to you....

Cycledude, yeah, I could do that. But the videos shows the action, and what moves where. I'll get a few pics tomorrow, fwiw.

If those couplers are in a place prone to rust and dust and junk getting in them, wrap them in a paper towel or rag, then secure the rag with wire or zip strap, then soak the rag with heavy oil. Keeps the junk out and keeps them moist with oil. Worked on the sander connections on a County...

I'd like to point out that grasshopper DID disassemble the detent part---several times, in fact and did clean things up. He just wasn't bold enough and experienced enough to go deep enough into it the first few times. After he got it cleaned up, grease WILL fix what's wrong in there. And the...

kwbretired, The couplers would disconnect automatically IF the hose had a straight pull. Alas, the way we are set up with elbows, the coupling will bind up from the side torque and won't release. But yes, on a straight pull, the hose just comes out of the body with no damage. i had a 1954...

Does anyone know if the forum will only accept pictures and not video? I have a good video of me pulling them apart and re-hooking them several times, but alas, I'm not smart enough to get them to post here. I click on the paper clip, go to my photo library and I can attach any of my still...

irving, the video by Mike? Did not show my style. On mine, the collar is anchored solidly and the hoses do the moving. If you want, send me a PM with your email address. I think I can attach that video I shot around noon demonstrating how mine work.

Yeah, if the collar must be slided back to unhook, you need to get that collar loose first. But with my style of couplers, that collar never moves. ALL the other stuff on either side of the collar shifts, but the collar is securely fastened to the bracket. It cannot move or turn. I sent you...

Grasshopper, can you ROTATE the knurled collars? If so, rotate and blow compressed air in there, to try to remove dirt, rust and junk. After the collar is rotating and clean as possible, try to rotate the elbow, to twist the two parts against each other.

No, wait. Don't cut anything just yet. I'm trying to show video I took about noon here in a Wisconsin, showing how to disconnect the couplers. As far as 5030, he has a LONG, LONG history of being disagreeable on this forum. Pay him no mind.

And grasshopper, I would bet that the 4 balls have some sort of cushion or real short spring, or some way to allow the 4 balls to retract and get out of the way when the nose of the spool try's to come thru to float. Then they re-extend into the groove to hold you in float. Try to push those 4...

OK, hope the video attaches. Notice the collar is anchored to the bracket, and ALL the other parts move. Exact opposite of older, 2-hand disconnects. NUTS! I can't get the video to show up when I click the paper clip to attach. But it IS in my photo library. A bunch of older pics show up...

Irvingj, Yup, that makes perfect sense! If those internal parts are not too badly rusted or damaged, he should be able to have a float function again. Could that C-clip have moved or got pushed out of position and ended up in the bottom of that cup? Or gotten broke and is jamming up the...

Yeah, you need to clean up all the rust and junk on those parts. Look inside the cap you're holding in picture 144201. Is is pitted or rough? It's possible you'll need a new cap, if that one can't be refurbished. Look into the bottom of that cap. Is there something in there preventing the...

And an observation on his "float" problem. All the spool valves I've seen with a float feature have that mechanism attached to the valve body on the opposite end of the spool from the handle, attached to the body by 4 small screws or bolts. If he can access that area, he should remove that...

Couple things while I wait for it to get daylight out--I can unhook under medium pressure, such as the empty loader lifted off the ground several inches or several feet. No problem. As a matter of fact, it unplugs even easier, as the extra pressure helps "push" the hose out of the coupler...

I'll try to shoot a short vid tomorrow AM. On my 1754, I don't touch the collar, merely yank on the hose and it unhooks. I can't be the only guy whose Quick Couplers unhook like that?

Again, the collar does not move!! It's anchored into the holder bracket, it can't move. What moves is the rear, female part of the coupler, inside the collar!! and those guts move when you pull on the hose. But you need to pull straight. If you grasp the hose by the elbow, it will bind and...