Steering cylinder / Tie rod removal gc2310

[DannyLobster]

So the steering cylnder of my GC2310 popped a seal and is leaking badly. I Read a few threads of others and it sounded fairly straight forward for me to remove the cylinder for repair.
I went to remove the tie rod end and undid the nut. As noted in a few threads, I left it on a little but to hit with a hammer. I got it lose, but now I cannot remove the nut as the threaded rod / bolt just spins. I assume it must have some lock in there that i cannot re-engage Any thoughts or ideas? Also Any suggestions on how better to do this so I do not have the same issue on the other side?

 

[jshwhite]

There's no locking mechanism. It is held just by the taper. If you can get some pressure on the top of it to push it back into the hole you might get it held tight enough to spin that nut. An impact wrench helps because it can spin it quickly.

If you're not trying to save your tie rod ends, a pickle fork is your best tool.

 

[lpakiz]

I learned a technique as a truck mechanic that doesn't need a pickle fork. Remove the nut completely. Hold an "anvil" behind the taper and briskly smack the front side of the taper. One or two whacks and the taper will just break loose and jump out.
You may need to improvise on the anvil and the hammer. For an anvil, a piece of 1" or 1 1/4" shaft, a foot long or more. You'll probably need a helper to hold it. If the arrangement is right, you cannuse the tie-rod or assist cylinder for the anvil, just so you can hit it with the hammer on the exact opposite side. Kinda like "pinching" the tapered part between the hammer and the anvil. The "hammer" can also be a shaft, used like a punch-- just so you can get a good swing at it, and it's pointed directly at the anvil. Try it!

 

[Dmacleo]

spent many years building tie rod ends and ball joints for toyotas.
gently put needle nose vice grip just above the thread markings.
bet within 1/2 turn the nut is loose and good to go.

 

[DannyLobster]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried the needle nose with pliers (not vice grip as suggested and was unsuccessful. Ultimately I was abe to use a gear puller to put enough pressure on the top of the taper to get the nut off. I used a pickle fork from my neighbor for the second one. I got the cylinder removed from the body but it is now suspended by the hoses with very little access.
Now the issue is access to the hose ends to remove the cylinder. One thread I saw suggested I needed to jack up the tractor and drop the front axle. This does not seem very easy or intuitive. I was considering removing the hoses at the steering box to free up enough slack to get access to the cylinder. Any thoughts or concerns on this approach or is the axle approach easier than it appears?

 

[Dmacleo]

personally I would do all I can to avoid touching the orbital valve. its approx $1200