What have you done with/to your GC Series 2300, 2400, 1700 Tractor TODAY

[dicktill]

Yeah I still got it, broke it by being absentminded while swapping backhoe around, and pulled the three point lift and cracked it!

I had a couple of cracks in mine, and I stitched them back together with a cheap plastic welding gun like this: Plastic Welder Kit Soldering Hot Stapler Bumper Repair Welding Gun 200 Staples | eBay
You could do the stitching from the outside, but it would be real ugly.

 

[ray66v]

I had a couple of cracks in mine, and I stitched them back together with a cheap plastic welding gun like this: Plastic Welder Kit Soldering Hot Stapler Bumper Repair Welding Gun 200 Staples | eBay

That is the fastest, but also the crudest way to fix it.

I suggest using the hot iron method to embed some stainless steel screen on the back side. This way, you can continuously reinforce the crack, and have a much stronger, and better looking repair, with only a little more effort.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

I have fixed hundreds of bumper covers this way, so I have had a lot of practice. No comparison which method is better.

If you wanted to do the full repair, you could then, "v" out the crack on the front side, and melt some of the filler rod in to the "v". It's pretty straightforward, to refinsh it then, and make it invisible.

 

[dicktill]

That is the fastest, but also the crudest way to fix it.

I suggest using the hot iron method to embed some stainless steel screen on the back side. This way, you can continuously reinforce the crack, and have a much stronger, and better looking repair, with only a little more effort.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

I have fixed hundreds of bumper covers this way, so I have had a lot of practice. No comparison which method is better.

If you wanted to do the full repair, you could then, "v" out the crack on the front side, and melt some of the filler rod in to the "v". It's pretty straightforward, to refinsh it then, and make it invisible.

@ray66v: Thanks for your message. Before I got and used the "staple gun", I tried welding using a heat gun and ABS filler rod that I had used on other repairs. No luck at all. I do not know what type of plastic the Massey Ferguson fender is made from, but it does not seem to be ABS. But you're right that the stainless steel screen would be far superior to the staples.

I think that you are lucky to have the 3-piece metal fenders on your older GC.

 

[not2old]

I have a couple of cracks on mine. I drilled holes just past the end of each crack years ago and neither has gotten any bigger.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I saved the piece, but it's not high on my priority list ... Watering again today is!

Filled up in the dark, then started watering ...

Sun was just peaking up when I was over half done with the first of three loads.

We got .65" of rain back on 7/17, nothing since, and it's been HOT out ... Heat index was 107° when I parked Little Baby Fergie in the barn and went inside for a cold shower, the 80° 49% humidity house felt real nice, of course the three cats were inside!

 

[dicktill]

A few updates to the GC hydraulics thread: How Massey Ferguson GC 1723 & 1725 hydraulics are plumbed

 

[polarred21]

Yard got pretty high while on vacation and a lot of clumps to deal with. My first season mowing with this new GC, mows really well. Have read many places about the crappy steel chute, will be upgrading this for sure.

Had to rig this up and I'm reading nobody has found Gator blades to fit.

 

[Dmacleo]

one of the good things about a drought is that a normal weekly 3 hr mow job now only takes 100 +/- minutes.
lot less diesel used. sadly same amount of bourbon. meh...problem for another day
anyways...guess what I did today with GC2400 and the mid mount mower

 

[irvingj]

My MMM flapper thing is still nice & shiny.... removed it after one week and stored it.

 

[ray66v]

My MMM flapper thing is still nice & shiny.... removed it after one week and stored it.

I just retired my fuel filter. It was the original one.

Thought 20 years was long enough.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I just retired my fuel filter. It was the original one.

Thought 20 years was long enough.

How many hours, or gallons did it last?

 

[Langanobob]

I saved the piece, but it's not high on my priority list ... Watering again today is!

Filled up in the dark, then started watering ...

View attachment 3836002

View attachment 3836003

Sun was just peaking up when I was over half done with the first of three loads.

View attachment 3836004

We got .65" of rain back on 7/17, nothing since, and it's been HOT out ... Heat index was 107° when I parked Little Baby Fergie in the barn and went inside for a cold shower, the 80° 49% humidity house felt real nice, of course the three cats were inside!

Someday all your work will pay off.

 

[ray66v]

How many hours, or gallons did it last?

Only 450 hours.

If fairness, I have a diesel pump, that runs the fuel through a big canister filter, making the fuel filter on the tractor purely decorative.

My tractor is pretty much retired, and living the life. The oil engine oil doesn't even get dark anymore. It's changed every two years, with only about 10 hours on it.

 

[dicktill]

I have posted this in the Iseki forum: a lot of thick, black, sooty smoke: injector?

I have 2022 Massey Ferguson GC 1723EB tractor (TLB). It just turned 500 hours recently and it has an Iseki E3112-XB03 engine. I has always had a little bit of black smoke at startup and under heavy load, but it has now started to really pour it out, again, especially under heavy load. It has become a bit harder to start, and smokes then, and it also smoke a bunch when the engine is throttled down from 2500 to 1500 rpm (under no load). It does not seem to have lost a great deal of power, nor does it seem to be guzzling fuel I replaced the fuel filter (it was clean) and the air filter (pretty clean too), gave it the Seafoam treatment: filled the fuel filter bowl with Seafoam (of course, it doesn't hold much) and put the rest in the fuel tank; all of these had no effect. I got fresh fuel from another station, filled the fuel filter with Seafoam again, and put an entire 5.25-ounce bottle of Lucas upper cylinder cleaner with injector cleaners in. Still no change, so I am guessing that I need to clean the injectors.

Is that something I can do myself or do I need to take it to the dealer? Or can any service station do this?

Any tips on removing them? Do I need new gaskets?

TIA, Dick

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I'm not home now, so don't have my service manual handy ... My "guess" would be that they have copper crush washers ... While new ones are "the right way" ... I'm sure many injectors have been put right back in after cleaning ...

Have you tried any of the "mechanic in a can"? That's for diesel ... I'm thinking the seafoam is more gas oriented, but not sure ... I've run Hotshots Hot Shot's Secret Diesel Extreme | Diesel Extreme Fuel Additive twice now ... I see now they also have Diesel Injector Flush | Hot Shot's Secret but have never used it ...

I normally run either there "everyday" or there "winter defense" depending on season, plus a half dose of LX4 Lubricity Extreme: Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel Additive without getting into politics, the ULSD fuel is hard on pumps and injectors, plus a boost in the cetane also helps it run clean.

Curious if you did the valve check/adjust during the 500 hour service?

 

[dicktill]

I'm not home now, so don't have my service manual handy ... My "guess" would be that they have copper crush washers ... While new ones are "the right way" ... I'm sure many injectors have been put right back in after cleaning ...

Have you tried any of the "mechanic in a can"? That's for diesel ... I'm thinking the seafoam is more gas oriented, but not sure ... I've run Hotshots Hot Shot's Secret Diesel Extreme | Diesel Extreme Fuel Additive twice now ... I see now they also have Diesel Injector Flush | Hot Shot's Secret but have never used it ...

I normally run either there "everyday" or there "winter defense" depending on season, plus a half dose of LX4 Lubricity Extreme: Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel Additive without getting into politics, the ULSD fuel is hard on pumps and injectors, plus a boost in the cetane also helps it run clean.

Curious if you did the valve check/adjust during the 500 hour service?

Good point(s). I did not adjust the valves (yet).

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Neither did I, just curious ...

 

[dicktill]

I have posted this in the Iseki forum: a lot of thick, black, sooty smoke: injector?

I have 2022 Massey Ferguson GC 1723EB tractor (TLB). It just turned 500 hours recently and it has an Iseki E3112-XB03 engine. I has always had a little bit of black smoke at startup and under heavy load, but it has now started to really pour it out, again, especially under heavy load. It has become a bit harder to start, and smokes then, and it also smoke a bunch when the engine is throttled down from 2500 to 1500 rpm (under no load). It does not seem to have lost a great deal of power, nor does it seem to be guzzling fuel I replaced the fuel filter (it was clean) and the air filter (pretty clean too), gave it the Seafoam treatment: filled the fuel filter bowl with Seafoam (of course, it doesn't hold much) and put the rest in the fuel tank; all of these had no effect. I got fresh fuel from another station, filled the fuel filter with Seafoam again, and put an entire 5.25-ounce bottle of Lucas upper cylinder cleaner with injector cleaners in. Still no change, so I am guessing that I need to clean the injectors.

Is that something I can do myself or do I need to take it to the dealer? Or can any service station do this?

Any tips on removing them? Do I need new gaskets?

TIA, Dick

I even thought of the possibility that a "mouse made a house" in the air filter or the inlet & outlet for it so I pulled off the housing and the hoses and cleaned everything. I even soaked the original air filter in soapy water overnight. Looking down into the intake manifold, I saw a bit of soot/carbon and it was a tad wet.

I did pull the injectors and soaked them in gasoline as recommended in the service manual (yes, it says to then soak them in Diesel before re-installing). #2 was black but the cleanest of the batch. #1 had more carbon build-up. #3 had a lot more carbon buildup and was wet. Although I did clean all three of them (I did not disassemble them), I replaced #3 with a new injector, and I used new copper washers on all three.

Good news: I started her up with no air filter and got her outside (cough, cough), but she cleared up very quickly. I then re-installed the original, but now washed, air filter and again she's relatively good. At some point I will re-install the original #3 injector (now soaking in brake cleaner) to see if it was really bad or if all she needed was a little TLC (tender loving care).

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I will say that these little Iseki engines do start hard ... Especially when below freezing ... Even in the summer, mine cranks a bit and then starts with a puff of black smoke on start up after hitting the glow plugs, but that's the only time it smokes ... My Kubota I don't think even gets a full revolution and it's running!

Sounds like poor quality fuel ... I'd try some of that "Everyday" I linked above ...

 

[ray66v]

I will say that these little Iseki engines do start hard ... Especially when below freezing ... Even in the summer, mine cranks a bit and then starts with a puff of black smoke on start up after hitting the glow plugs, but that's the only time it smokes ... My Kubota I don't think even gets a full revolution and it's running!

I have not had that experience with mine. It starts right up, with no smoke, even with temperatures in the single digits.

Sorry, typo on the first post of this.