Need help deciding on a grapple

   / Need help deciding on a grapple #81  
Now I do think some of the light duty grapples I see, I would not buy. Look at how the anchor points are on the upper claw, and the cylinder.

I agree there are a few showing up on eBay that could give standard duty grapples a bad name. They just look too light to me.
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple #82  
Yep. You among others convince me of that before I bought the first time....about 85% of the way. Once I used, I knew I made the right decision. Thanks for the help back then.

BTW I didn't have a CUT then, nor now, but an M7040. And I worked that grapple hard. Now I do think some of the light duty grapples I see, I would not buy. Look at how the anchor points are on the upper claw, and the cylinder.

Yes, to be fair, I should have mentioned that at least one manufacturer used less than 1/4" top tubing on a light duty grapple in an effort to save themselves ten bucks. That is a mistake. I won't mention the name as I am not sure which of a couple manufacturers it was. But any light duty built with mild steel 3/8" tines and 1/4" square tube or pipe seems to handle the stresses of CUT use just fine. I also imagine that the high strength 1/4" tines on the EA light duty 48 are just fine too. Again, all of these grapples are more strongly built than any standard bucket so they are simply not delicate items. You can injure a grapple or worse the FEL by twisting with asymmetric pushing/lifting or by pushing with the top grapple open (all things that would injure a heavy duty grapple too) but for straight digging and lifting there is simply no way that an FEL with up to 3000lbs of lift (at least) is going to hurt a light duty grapple.
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple
  • Thread Starter
#83  
I have been arguing that point for years here. I don't know why people think grapples should be as wide as the standard bucket but in practice there is simply no real benefit and lots of disadvantages. Cost, maneuverability, net lift capacity, safer for the FEL as less risk of torquing, easier digging.....the list goes on. Wide grapples make sense for cleaning up construction debris but 48" is all you really need for most other tasks. Read through the thousands of posts here on TBN and see if you find anyone who complains that they wish they'd bought a wider grapple than 48".

The confusion continues for two simple reasons. Most important is that ANY grapple is better than no grapple so guys with 72" grapples are also happy (though poorer). The second reason is that dealers are still not thinking about the difference between a CUT and a skidsteer when selling grapples. Dealers generally don't have much experience themselves with grapples and so rely on SS standards for grapple size based on horsepower and typical SS commercial usage. Even the few dealers who have come to understand that 48" grapples make a lot more sense for CUTs are still being too conservative with the horsepower issue. Look at ANY light duty 48" grapple construction and then look at ANY standard factory bucket for a CUT. The grapple is made more strongly of thicker steel. Nobody breaks their standard buckets, why are dealers so concerned about light duty grapples on CUTs???

Im glad to see you guys discussing the 48" grapple advantages, I just got home from RCO tractor and that thing was built like a tank(1/2" steel) I was really impressed and it was reasonably priced at 1300.00... my only concern is I will be disappointed when in use on my larger cab tractor, when its on my CUT I think I will be really happy with it, the unit will likely be on the cab tractor the majority of the time.... you guys that have the 48" do you think if it was on a large cab tractor you would still be happy with it?
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple #84  
Im glad to see you guys discussing the 48" grapple advantages, I just got home from RCO tractor and that thing was built like a tank(1/2" steel) I was really impressed and it was reasonably priced at 1300.00... my only concern is I will be disappointed when in use on my larger cab tractor, when its on my CUT I think I will be really happy with it, the unit will likely be on the cab tractor the majority of the time.... you guys that have the 48" do you think if it was on a large cab tractor you would still be happy with it?

I didn't have a cab, but used on a 70hp Kubota M7040, and had no problem, and I used it hard. It was beefed up with 1/2 steel. I intend to rebuy the exact same grapple.

So....don't see why not.
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple
  • Thread Starter
#85  
I didn't have a cab, but used on a 70hp Kubota M7040, and had no problem, and I used it hard. It was beefed up with 1/2 steel. I intend to rebuy the exact same grapple.

So....don't see why not.

I think u guys have me talked into the 48" grapple... I just priced running hoses from the front to back with a disconnect at the loader (not sure I need that I never take my loader off))parts alone came out to about 375.00 seems steep does that sound about right? FYI that 1/4" hose
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple #86  
For myself I am having a hard time finding one in the 50" range that will open far enough for my needs. Everybody I talk to wants me to buy a 60" heavy duty one and I DO NOT want that. Almost looks like I will build one myself or have MIE build me one. Here is a few pics of the mods to my econo grapple. grapple 001.jpggrapple 004.jpgand 1 loaded with 2 rows of hardwoodgrapple 005.jpgCJ
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple #87  
I think u guys have me talked into the 48" grapple... I just priced running hoses from the front to back with a disconnect at the loader (not sure I need that I never take my loader off))parts alone came out to about 375.00 seems steep does that sound about right? FYI that 1/4" hose

Seems high. I don't recall what I paid, but it wasn't that much. I used 1/2 hoses. I ran hoses from to back, with no disconnect in the middle...since I doubted I would take the loader off. And if I did, I would seeming coil the loader portion of the hoses off and tie off somewhere.
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple #88  
I think u guys have me talked into the 48" grapple... I just priced running hoses from the front to back with a disconnect at the loader (not sure I need that I never take my loader off))parts alone came out to about 375.00 seems steep does that sound about right? FYI that 1/4" hose

That sounds really high. First, I would not bother with the two part system. It just isn't that hard to take the hoses off if you ever do remove your loader. I don't take mine off much either but had a two part system on my Ck20 that I literally never took apart. It takes only about fifteen minutes to reroute the hoses to the rear if you ever do need to remove the FEL so save the cost of four fittings and four crimps and four quick connects by eliminating the split. Second, it sounds like you went to a local hydraulic shop and got full retail pricing. Figure out the length of hose you need (I measured with an old garden hose) and then buy something from surplus supply over the internet with fittings in place for a third the price that a local shop will charge to make things up custom. Also, 1/4 inch hose is all you need for flow but I'd personally use 3/8 if I did it again. Just a little tougher to stand up to brush etc under the tractor.
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple #89  
I bought my hoses local, but after I posted my last reply, started searching. Check here. Surplus Center
 
   / Need help deciding on a grapple #90  
I did the same but ran 3/8" for running a auger for post holes. I did not do Q/D's for taking off the loader because it will never come off as long as I own it. CJ
 
 

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