The white wire at the trailer's plug is connected to the frame (usually). But yes, personally, I like to tie all the ground points together.
I am waiting on a trailer kit to arrive. The biggest issue with this kit is the lights because they are each grounded to the trailer rather than a wire tying them all together. I have already receive the jacketed trailer wire that I'm going to use instead of the wire that comes with it so that I can run the ground wire to all the lights. My FIL who does not want to pay $2.80 a foot for the jacketed stuff is going use the wires that come with mine to rewire his because rodents chewed through his wires. I told him that why I'm using the jacketed stuff, but up to him if he wants to fix wires every year. Yes, I bought the kit even knowing this, but the price is right and even with the modifications I'm going to make is will still be less than one already put together + I'll get what I really need instead of settling for what I can find. Who knows, I may end up getting different lights as well, but from what I understand the newer ones come with LEDs, will see about this when I get it.
If you wish to change that you can use plastic isolators and a plastic bushing, then run the wires as you want. Not a fan of grounding via the trailer frame myself.
Who is on first.
My trailer with the frame grounding is about 25 years old. I would think that the advantage of frame grounding would be less wire to break.
Who is his grampa?
If the wires are attached to bare metal, not painted, and there is a solid connection from one end to the other, the kit I'm getting is designed to fold and there is paint on all the frame parts. You'd have to grind all the paint off at the ground points and every location where the parts connect, thus removing any rust prevention that paint might be supplying. Gotta love the people that design these type of things that don't understand that paint does not conduct electricity very well.
Stakon ring terminal and a small self-tapping screw.
Which is why you usually use a star washer to break though the paint when using the frame as a ground.
I agree with that, but it doesn't solve the problem with all the frame parts being painted. You'd also need to replace all the flat washers that come with the kit with star washers and even then I would not be 100% sure of all the connections. It may work fine on a trailer that has been welded together before painting. This is a picture of the frame parts in this kit, not mine, it is one I stole off of harbor freight. With all of this paint the wiring kit should really have a ground wire to run to all of the lights, but then again, it's not so expensive that I'm worried about replacing their wire with my own.
Agree, connecting all the grounds together is better in the long run. I connect to the frame and connect them all together. Mainly because the lights are usually attached to the frame when I get the trailer anyways, so just easier to add wire and terminal and connect them all. Many paths to ground is a good thing.
Many paths to ground is a good thing.
You enjoy the mysterious ground loop effects?
MY 2005 Chevy has no flasher or control other than turnsignal switch, and all truck body lighting is controlled by PCM (power control module) and there is a complete set of different fuses and wiring harness (from body lights) to rear of truck for trailer lighting... Wondering if PO truck may have same setup?
I really doubt it as the truck has no power seats, windows, door locks or even cruise control. It's pretty much bare bones. Doesn't even have a back seat.
OK.... It may be pre-all the computer/PCM controlled functions.... Various makes of vehicles implemented it in different years.....I really doubt it as the truck has no power seats, windows, door locks or even cruise control. It's pretty much bare bones. Doesn't even have a back seat.
