trail clearing technique and tools

[jkahan]

I didn't realize Stihl made a Combi tool that is rated for a saw blade.

I don't own a Combi Tool, but do own their FS250 and use it often with a saw blade on it - mainly for cutting Buchthorn (an invasive tree that I'm overrun with.) Before that, I owned a similar Jonsered brush cutting saw for many years (until I lent it to a friend who straight-gassed it.) I much prefer the Chisel tooth blade (or the similar Maxi blade sold by other manufacturers) to the one that looks like a circular chainsaw wheel. The chisel or Maxi cut more efficiently.

I use the Forester circular chainsaw wheel on my Stihl Kombis...fwiw - I have the Stihl Kombi KM130R and KM131R models; also use a wire brush for patio and wall work - I saw some posts in this thread about windows breaking while kicking up stones with wire brushes -- misery loves company

 

[airbiscuit]

These are my trail saws.

The CS-2511TN is my show pony. Still too new to get down and dirty and put it in the dirt cutting stumps off at ground level. It is crazy light (5.2 lbs) and will get an Egan Performance Pipe once it's broken in.

The CS-4910 is a modded saw, a cutting demon, and my thoroughbred. It makes short work of multiple cuts in large wood.

The CS-3400 is a cheap, older, reed valve, top handle saw, and is my workhorse. It has a 14" bar and a chisel chain and cuts fast enough. More of my time is spent walking and tossing brush. This saw is light, easy to carry, and cuts well. I find myself using it 90% of the time.

My younger self used to chase horsepower (I also have a Husqvarna 562 XP and 572 XP, both with modded mufflers), but I find I can do more trail work and be less tired at the end of the day with a lighter saw.

I borrow my friend's Polan Pro pole saw to trim the overhanging branches, but have little use for that anymore.

 

[ArlyA]

I use the Forester circular chainsaw wheel on my Stihl Kombis...fwiw - I have the Stihl Kombi KM130R and KM131R models; also use a wire brush for patio and wall work - I saw some posts in this thread about windows breaking while kicking up stones with wire brushes -- misery loves company
View attachment 884592

How do you keep them sharp?

 

[ArlyA]

On the North Country T over the weekend. Lowest photo was taken live.

 

[John_Mc]

How do you keep them sharp?

Same way you sharpen a chainsaw.

Not difficult to sharpen, but for my uses, other styles of blades work much more efficiently. I don't see a lot of those Forester-type blades used by guys who use clearing saws professionally.

 

[ArlyA]

Same way you sharpen a chainsaw.

Not difficult to sharpen, but for my uses, other styles of blades work much more efficiently. I don't see a lot of those Forester-type blades used by guys who use clearing saws professionally.

We'd be spending more time at filing than brush cutting.

 

[2manyrocks]

String won't last long trying to cut grape vines and small saplings where chain saw blades will zip through them in one pass. Chain saw blades aren't the best choice for cutting grass where there are hidden rocks. Neither chain saw blades nor string are the best choice when dealing with a briar patch that needs to be mulched to pieces.

 

[John_Mc]

We'd be spending more time at filing than brush cutting.

When you are doing thinning - cutting saplings up to a couple of inches in diameter(or more, depending on the clearing saw you are using), there really is not another choice. The metal 3 armed blade won't make through saplings this size, and a string trimmer wont do much more than strip the bark. Something like the Forester blade or the blades that look more like a circular saw are the options for that. Chainsaw blades rob a lot of power. I find the "circular saw"-looking blades a better choice, IF you get a good quality one. Husqvarna and Oregon sell some of the Maxi style (made in Sweden). I suspect others sell them as well - probably all made in the same factory and relabeled. They good quality, hold up well (if you keep them out of the dirt and rocks), and easy to sharpen.

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There are also some not-so-good ones that look similar. These are cheaper steel and a slightly different design. I'm not so much a fan of these

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I'm also not a fan of Stihl's "scratcher" blade for cutting saplings. There is no way it will keep up with a good Maxi blade.

I have not tried Stihl's Chisel Tooth Blade. It might be a good option as well.

None of the blades above are a very good option for grasses and weeds.

 

[jkahan]

How do you keep them sharp?

sharpening the chainsaw wheels is a PIA - I usually run them until they die.

 

[John_Mc]

sharpening the chainsaw wheels is a PIA - I usually run them until they die.

I found it no different than sharpening a chainsaw. The Maxi blades are a bit quicker to sharpen.

 

[jkahan]

I found it no different than sharpening a chainsaw. The Maxi blades are a bit quicker to sharpen.

By hand, correct; but they obviously don't fit on chain sharpening machines.

 

[airbiscuit]

Seems like you could do a quick touch up with a Dremel and a stone

 

[ArlyA]

Some people work in the field.

 

[sd455dan]

After pics when you can please

from beach and heading back somewhat blurry- kind of a rough ride still -clean up has stalled for now but we can at least get to there.

 

[airbiscuit]

Seems like you could do a quick touch up with a Dremel and a stone

Some people work in the field.

CORDLESS Dremel

 

[BigGG]

How do you keep them sharp?

I used a few of these then went to the carbide version. I have some diamond files but don't sharpen them.

 

[John_Mc]

By hand, correct; but they obviously don't fit on chain sharpening machines.

I sharpen all of my chains by hand. It's not difficult to beat the quality of a machine ground chain.

I probably only resharpened the Forester-type blade on my brush saw a half dozen times before abandoning it, but I'm sure I could hand sharpen it faster than I could bring it back to the shop to put it on a machine if I did have one that it would fit. If I recall, it only had about 20 teeth.

 

[jkahan]

Back to all about me topics... Trail mowing....
Received and assembled my Kunz 44" tow behind mower. 750 pounds of mower arrived on a pallet. Assembly was very straight forward. Obviously, these once-in-a-blue-moon assembly activities can always be a challenge.

Even though I have only used it for about 2 to 3 hour, it is perfect for my application -- mowing very steep 6-10' wide trails; have 9+ miles of trails to maintain. Nothing too wet. Had no trouble pulling it behind a tracked Can-Am Outlander 1000 ATV. Dealing with Kunz Engineering has been awesome. Two must have options (imo) are electric lift kit (instead of hand crank on mower deck) and remote clutch (PTO) switch - both switches can be installed on tow vehicle; need this capability for trail mowing (maybe not so much for field mowing).

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[ning]

That's pretty impressive - particularly the tight turns while mowing!