Tractor Diesel Fuel Additive

[hayden]

Too bad there isn't a way to check the anti-gel properties of "winter diesel" as it comes from the dealer. I bet it varies all over depending on how much anti-gel was added to the "winter diesel", how much summer diesel was still in the tank when it was topped off with "winter diesel", etc.

I got in trouble with that last year. Filled the tank in December so it should have been "winter diesel". Was only down to 5 degrees F in January and when I tried fueling my tractor the pump wouldn't work...then I noticed the white cloud in the filter housing. Now I make sure I add plenty of anti-gel and diesel kleen to my bulk tank BEFORE I put diesel in it.

Exactly.

What exactly is “winter diesel”?

When is that what comes out of the pump vs summer?

How much non-winter is still in your tractor or other machine?

If you add winter diesel, what is the cloud point on the blend that you now have in your tank? Will it gel or not, and at what temp?

 

[dannyojudd]

View attachment 2115552
View attachment 2115554 You should also be using a Biocide

I've only used Power Serice products since 1989 when I purchased my first Dodge D-250 2wd w/Cummins. I failed to read the directions carefully and missed to double the dosage below 32 degrees. Excellent product fairly priced. I used their anti-gel without fail for many years.

 

[5030]

Seems to be a lot of hoopla about lubricity and ULSD diesel which can be on road (not colored) or off road (red dyed).

I've never had any issue with lubricity in my injection pumps or injectors for that matter and my good friend owns and runs 65 road tractors pulling Fed-Ex trailers and he don't add anyting to his fuel, ever.

Never had an issues with either of my Kubota's or my Cat 3406 B model and my tractors as well as the Cat have mechanical injection pumps so I think the lubricity thing is phooey.

Actually besides anti-gel (Power service white or red bottle) I run a Nano-Borate additive in my lube oil, but only to keep the insides of my engines clean as synthetic oils today tend to coat interior engine surfaces with a light coating of varnish. The Nano-Borate additive eliminates that entirely. A clean engine is a happy engine IMO.

 

[Williy]

For many many years I have been using Power Service the white bottle that way it dosn't matter when I fill up my jugs
because I'm always ready when ever the cold wind blows

willy

 

[big bubba]

"I run a Nano-Borate additive in my lube oil, but only to keep the insides of my engines clean as synthetic oils today tend to coat interior engine surfaces with a light coating of varnish." 5030

interesting, curious about the data or empirical evidence of varnish build up of synthetic vs conventional oils? though a little off topic of this thread, i have never heard that fact, my understanding is that conventional rather than synthetic is what builds up varnish, etc... best regards,

 

[5030]

"I run a Nano-Borate additive in my lube oil, but only to keep the insides of my engines clean as synthetic oils today tend to coat interior engine surfaces with a light coating of varnish." 5030

interesting, curious about the data or empirical evidence of varnish build up of synthetic vs conventional oils? though a little off topic of this thread, i have never heard that fact, my understanding is that conventional rather than synthetic is what builds up varnish, etc... best regards,

All you need to do is watch the YT channel 'I do cars' to observe hos synthetic or semi synthetic motor oil causes varnish deposits inside any engine, especially those that owners get lax about oil changes, which is by the way impending death for the Ford Eco-Boost VVT engines where the cam phasers fail prematurely.

Not something I do, I change my lube oil every 5K miles. I suggest you employ your favorite search engine and inquire about the benefits of adding a Nano-Borate additive to your lube oil. Well documented.

It's the only 'elixir' I use other than using a carbon dissolving agent on my GDI engine at every oil change simply because it's much less expensive to do that versus pulling the head and using walnut shell blasting to remove built up carbon in the intake. Much cheaper.

At least builders realized that having a pilot injector in the intake tract was a much better alternative to a dry intake tract concerning carbon buildup . Just so happens I own a GDI engine.

 

[big bubba]

could well be. if this were an issue, esp on newer engines, wouldn't manufacturers include your additive to their oem engine oils?

my understanding is that synthetic has more aggressive scrubbers than conventional oils, therefore not recommended for older engines with conventional varnish build up through the years, therefore compromising seals, etc. anyway, this thread is about diesel additives, apologize for diversion. regards,

 

[1M05]

synthetic or semi synthetic motor oil causes varnish deposits inside any engine, especially those that owners get lax about oil changes

Sounds like lax oil changes are causing the varnish not the oil?

 

[5030]

No issue with me and far as buildup internally, I don't have any as my motors are all using that additive since new.

I will say that I had to replace the injection harness on my 97 F350, 7.3 IDI Navistar diesel engine last year and when I pulled the valve covers which you have to do to replace the injector and glow plug connections, not only was the head deck squeaky clean but so were the injector bodies themselves and the underside of the valve covers were completely devoid of any buildup what so ever. All I did was wipe the inside of the valve covers with a clean rag and replaced them. Engine had well over 100K miles on it and no buildup of anything at all and it's a farm truck and gets worked pretty hard during hot weather. That alone sold me on it.

Candidly speaking, I'm really not into 'elixers' that are sold in auto parts stores than seem to line their shelves. I consider most all of them just a waste of hard earned money with the exception of Nano-Borate and EPA-MSDS labelled algaecide as well as GDI dry intake carbon remover. You won't find anything else on my shelf.

Only reason I use Power Service Bio-Kleen is my first hand (and expensive) experience with the stinky gunk in my diesel engines. They do sit all winter not used, on battery tenders with the starting batteries removed electrically from their systems.

There are a boatload of additives you can buy but IMO, most are a waste of money and I am inherently cheap anyway.

 

[5030]

Sounds like lax oil changes are causing the varnish not the oil?

I don't know as it's not something I do. I never pay any attention to 'recommended change intervals' on any of our vehicles or my tractors. They all get changed as well as filters (and I don't use cheap aftermarket filters either, always OEM filters), every 5K miles. My philosophy is, lube oil as well as transmission / hydraulic oil is much cheaper in the long run than expensive repairs attributed to extended oil changes and I do use Blackstone Labs for oil analysis to keep tabs on engine condition as well as impending issues that may arise in the future. Spectroscopic oil analysis gives you an advance notice to impending issues. I don't use them with every oil change, just yearly.