Tire planning

[RadarTech]

I’m looking out about 6 months for a plan to change out my L3400 tires.

Currently have R1s and I’m considering R4.
I’d think the R4s would better handle sticks and brush than R1s.

I know R4s will require new rims, and I’m sure that this will be a pain.


So questions-
1. Will the R4 make the 3400 more stable?(suspext yes)
2. Can I drain and reuse the best juice that is in the tires? It’s the original 2007 juice…
3. Where do I go? My original dealer is out of business. Yes there is another close by..
4. What should I expect for price?
5. Can I buy the tires/rims and install myself?
6. Would you buy and request install?
7. Is there a market for old tires/rims? Where? Value?


Thanks!
RT

 

[Yander]

Me personally, I would try to have the dealer install the tires on the new rims and fill with Beet juice. Leave the beet juice in the R1's in case you choose to switch back to them or sell them. It would be favorable for the buyer if they were filled.

 

[jeff9366]

1. Will the R4 make the L3400 more stable?

The spread of your rear wheels/tires is the most important single factor influencing tractor stability.
All R1/ag wheels/tires are adjustable for width. Do you have your existing wheels/tires set at the widest spread available? Wheel/tire spread options should be shown as diagrams in your L3400 Operator's Manual.

R4/industrial tires on an L3400 are NOT adjustable for spread. To increase wheel/tire spread you have to install aftermarket wheel spacers.

2. Can I drain and reuse the best juice that is in the tires? It’s the original 2007 juice…
Few dealers will deal with old beet juice. Too stinky, too messy. Old lumpy, sticky juice plugs tire valves.

3. Where do I go? My original dealer is out of business.
Any amenable tire shop can acquire and install tractor tires. Tires are tires.

4. What should I expect for price? I’d think the R4s would better handle sticks and brush than R1s.
Factory standard R1/ag tires are four ply. Consider purchasing replacement R1/ag tires with six or eight plies.
(Factory standard R4/ industrial rear tires are six ply.)


5. Can I buy the tires/rims and install myself?
Loaded rear tires are too heavy for one person to remove/replace without the proper equipment. This is sufficiently hazardous that I would not attempt it myself. Leave it to a dealer who is experienced with big, heavy tires.

6. Would you buy and request install?

7. Is there a market for old tires/rims? Where? Value?
Not that I am aware of.

 

[LouNY]

I’m looking out about 6 months for a plan to change out my L3400 tires.

Currently have R1s and I’m considering R4.
I’d think the R4s would better handle sticks and brush than R1s.

I know R4s will require new rims, and I’m sure that this will be a pain.


So questions-
1. Will the R4 make the 3400 more stable?(suspext yes)

Why do you expect it will be more stable?
Unless the tire is wider and lower I doubt it.

2. Can I drain and reuse the best juice that is in the tires? It’s the original 2007 juice…

Could be done, not a nice job.

3. Where do I go? My original dealer is out of business. Yes there is another close by..

Any ag tire shop or equipment dealer.

4. What should I expect for price?

No idea

5. Can I buy the tires/rims and install myself?

Yes you can do it yourself.
You will need a pump, hoses, adapters and storage barrels for the beet juice.
A bead breaker and tire irons for the tires.
It will be a workout.

6. Would you buy and request install?
7. Is there a market for old tires/rims? Where? Value?

some of a market, depends on size and how common, usually not much money.

Thanks!
RT

Good luck

 

[RadarTech]

1. Will the R4 make the L3400 more stable?

The spread of your rear wheels/tires is the most important single factor influencing tractor stability.
All R1/ag tires are adjustable for width. Do you have your existing wheels/tires set at the widest spread available? Wheel/tire spread options should be shown as diagrams in your L3400 Operator's Manual.

R4/industrial tires on an L3400 are NOT adjustable for spread. To increase wheel/tire spread you have to install aftermarket wheel spacers.

2. Can I drain and reuse the best juice that is in the tires? It’s the original 2007 juice…
Few dealers will deal with old beet juice. Too stinky, too messy. Old juice plugs tire valves.

3. Where do I go? My original dealer is out of business.
Any amenable tire shop can acquire and install tractor tires. Tires are tires.

4. What should I expect for price? I’d think the R4s would better handle sticks and brush than R1s.
Factory standard R1/ag tires are four ply. Consider purchasing replacement R1/ag tires with six or eight plies.
(Factory standard R4/ industrial rear tires are six ply.)


5. Can I buy the tires/rims and install myself?
Loaded rear tires are too heavy for one person to install without the proper equipment. This is sufficiently hazardous that I would not attempt it myself. Leave it to a dealer who is experienced with big, heavy tires.

6. Would you buy and request install?

7. Is there a market for old tires/rims? Where? Value?
Not that I am aware of.

I have never changed the width of the ags, so if there is an adjustment… I had no idea!!
I’m gonna look in my manual now..

 

[dieselscout80]

I went from an old IH 424 with R1 tires to a NH TC45 with R4s.

I can say for sure the traction of the R1 tires is way more than the R4s.

I replaced the bald fronts with Alliance 550 tires. I am also going to replace the rears, but I am thinking of replacing them with a BTK 747. However, the 550 tires are an option too, but may not have good traction in sticky mud due to not clearing mud from the lugs.

Now That R14 Tires Have Been Out For A While

Thanks They look like a great option.

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[sandman2234]

Used tires have a market if a buyer is close by. Shipping is usually an issue.
Try Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace if you decide to sell them.
David from jax

 

[jeff9366]

I have never changed the width of the ags, so if there is an adjustment… I had no idea!!
I’m gonna look in my manual now..

VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Adjust+tractor+R1+tire+spread

 

[LouNY]

I went from an old IH 424 with R1 tires to a NH TC45 with R4s.

I can say for sure the traction of the R1 tires is way more than the R4s.

I replaced the bald fronts with Alliance 550 tires. I am also going to replace the rears, but I am thinking of replacing them with a BTK 747. However, the 550 tires are an option too, but may not have good traction in sticky mud due to not clearing mus from the lugs.

Now That R14 Tires Have Been Out For A While

Thanks They look like a great option.

www.tractorbynet.com

View attachment 769488

I like the looks of those fronts for a utility tractor, not for a tillage tractor but many other times I think they would be very good.
I have no use for R4's I haven't found a situation where they worked better the R1's for me.

 

[Blue Mule]

I have R4s on my Workmaster 40. I HATE them. They are 6-ply rated and extremely stiff which is great for resisting puncture.
But, this lack of flex also causes them to have very poor traction. I find that they are so bad that I have to keep my tractor in four wheel drive almost all of the time, even when driving on gravel hills.

I really wanted R3s again because that’s what we had on our previous tractor and they were amazing in all conditions. But, R3s are nearly impossible to find around here on new tractors, and dealers tend to shy away from swapping them out for you when you buy. If I could do it over again, I’d demand R3s or no sale.

 

[ptsg]

I like the looks of those fronts for a utility tractor, not for a tillage tractor but many other times I think they would be very good.
I have no use for R4's I haven't found a situation where they worked better the R1's for me.

Yeah, those R14 tires have been around in Europe for a long time and are actually called and known as Municipal tires. For the most part are used on municipal tractors that spend 90% of the time on paved roads with brooms, flail mowers, plowing snow, etc.

 

[dieselscout80]

I have R4s on my Workmaster 40. I HATE them. They are 6-ply rated and extremely stiff which is great for resisting puncture.
But, this lack of flex also causes them to have very poor traction. I find that they are so bad that I have to keep my tractor in four wheel drive almost all of the time, even when driving on gravel hills.

I really wanted R3s again because that’s what we had on our previous tractor and they were amazing in all conditions. But, R3s are nearly impossible to find around here on new tractors, and dealers tend to shy away from swapping them out for you when you buy. If I could do it over again, I’d demand R3s or no sale.

It’s interesting that in my owners manual the both the front R1 & R3 tire run at lower pressures 8 psi on the low end but the R4 is 16 psi.

I currently have the radial 550s set to 16 psi, but I may try lowering it some.

I chalked the lugs and at 16 psi the chalk was completely gone in say 3 revolutions, but I think the outside of the lugs were the last to go.

 

[MF243RedTop]

It’s interesting that in my owners manual the both the front R1 & R3 tire run at lower pressures 8 psi on the low end but the R4 is 16 psi.

I currently have the radial 550s set to 16 psi, but I may try lowering it some.

I chalked the lugs and at 16 psi the chalk was completely gone in say 3 revolutions, but I think the outside of the lugs were the last to go.

It takes more pressure to inflate a stiffer thicker sidewall and tread.

 

[David Wayne]

I did what you are wanting, found a set of new take offs and had them shipped to me. Sold the old R1's
for cheap just to get rid of them, better than paying a EPA fee and didn't want them laying around.
I had to get a set of 2" spacers from brotek because the clearance to the fender was only 1/2". This was on a L3400 also. You have time so keep searching, they are out there. If I find my paperwork I will let you know where I got them from, it was 4 or 5 years ago.

David

 

[pmsmechanic]

It’s interesting that in my owners manual the both the front R1 & R3 tire run at lower pressures 8 psi on the low end but the R4 is 16 psi.

I currently have the radial 550s set to 16 psi, but I may try lowering it some.

I chalked the lugs and at 16 psi the chalk was completely gone in say 3 revolutions, but I think the outside of the lugs were the last to go.

Be careful how low you go. R1 and R3 tires seat on a flat flange on the rim and will stay on even with low air pressure. R4's sit on a tapered flange and use air pressure to hold them in place similar to a semi tractor or trailer tire. R4's need the higher air pressure to stay on place on the rim. I feel it's just one more of many reasons not to buy R4's

 

[dieselscout80]

While I have only driven it once I noticed the radial design of the 550s seem to flex when going over object, so I might not need to go to a lower psi.

 

[dieselscout80]

 

[SmallChange]

5. Can I buy the tires/rims and install myself?

I keep noticing tire tools at each of the local Tractor Supply store. Somebody's buying them, and I doubt dealers get their tools at TSC.

 

[Wolfy]

Have used both for a very long time and there is no way Id get rid of R1 for R4. They are more stable, and easier on grass, and stronger. But thats where the advantages end. In mud they clog up almost instantly.

 

[Paystar]

Do you have a good relationship with your Kubota dealer? Talk to your salesman and get him to order you rims and tires through Whole Goods.

I got my new rims and tires that way cheaper than I could buy just the tires anywhere else. So you essentially get free rims.