3-Point Hitch Three point hitch clearance on a 2520

[Hillstone]

I will try to post pictures.

 

[mastertape]

I just mounted the iMatch with arms on the inside, chains and everything else has no major clearance problems. The tires are still on "forward", chains dont hit the fenders, nor the arms. I guess until I read this post, I did not know anyone was having any problems with this. I had to get the JD tire spacers for the front tires, to put those chains on, but it was obvious that it was necessary, and JD already had all the parts to do it. Everything works great.

 

[Deadman]

Hmmm, never looked at mounting the arms on the inside. I'll have to look into that. I really don't want the rear stance to be 6 inches wider, because there are already areas that I can't get into with the stock width.

 

[Deadman]

Just curious if the chains need to be super tight so they don't hit the fenders if you go fast, or is there ample clearance if the chains swing twords the fenders?

 

[GordNovo]

I just mounted the iMatch with arms on the inside, chains and everything else has no major clearance problems. The tires are still on "forward", chains dont hit the fenders, nor the arms. I guess until I read this post, I did not know anyone was having any problems with this. I had to get the JD tire spacers for the front tires, to put those chains on, but it was obvious that it was necessary, and JD already had all the parts to do it. Everything works great.

Works good, eh? I see you used a pin instead of a bolt.. I couldn't get a 7/8" pin from my local tractor supply shop, but the 7/8" bolt seems to work excellent too, especially with the nylong lock nut. Plenty of clearance now for chains.

GN

 

[Deadman]

Does flipping the tires alone make them dig any differentely? Just wondering if I should run them forward instead of backward?

 

[T185]

Does flipping the tires alone make them dig any differentely? Just wondering if I should run them forward instead of backward?

The rear tires are directional, so you would need to flip and change sides.

 

[Deadman]

I just did like Mastertape did. Its amazing how easy it was.
Just go to your local parts store and get 2 of the longer cat 1 pins and bolt it right onto the I match where your current pin goes thru. Its so easy, I can't believe I never thought of it. It made at least 2 full inches clearance on eash side with the arms up!

Sweet mod, did it for like $15 in parts.

 

[Deadman]

I can't believe that more people aren't doing this to gain clearance. Its simple cheap and effective.

 

[GordNovo]

I see no downside, really. But I haven't put it to the test yet with heavy box blade work. We'll see come summer time

GN

 

[Hillstone]

Only downside would be no added stability on hills.

 

[Deadman]

I left my tires/wheels in the wide position. I don't want spacers, because they only add more stress to the rear end. Its simply more leverage, so breakage is "possible".

 

[Hillstone]

I let you know if anything breaks. No worries.

 

[jdbower]

The biggest theoretical downside of that setup as opposed to the typical iMatch setup is that you'd be more susceptible to lateral forces (sway) than with the wider stance for the arms. Whether that actually is an issue in practice for an implement that the 2520 would normally utilize is a completely different story - since iMatch is the same for all Cat1 tractors (including much larger ones) my gut says you shouldn't have an issue.

I've got a few feelers out for a source on 2520 spacers since it comes up every so often, but most of the fabricators around me deal mostly in sheet metal so finding stock steel that size is rough (and expensive!). I'll be sure to post if I can find anything.

 

[Hillstone]

I am sure someone will soon make them available. I may soon offer them myself if no one else does .I like the drawing Nate M has posted. If I were to manufacture them they would be 2" steel spacers as he posted.I beleive that is all you need. Hopefully he will post results.

 

[Deadman]

Just remember if you mow in TIGHT spaces, you'll be 4 inches wider and that may keep you out of areas. It might also affect your footprint if you have a narrow bucket and attempt to dig with it!

 

[nate_m]

Well, I finaly got around to installing the spacers I mentioned before.

I have attached some pics of the project.

I think it will work well for my needs. There is appoximately 3 inches of clearance between the 3ph arms and the tire tread.

The only thing I would do different is make the recess about an 1/8" deeper that fits over the boss on the hub. I had to shim behind the spacer to make up the difference. I would also make a boss on the spacer like Hillstone advised. This would help in getting the wheel back on.

I also had some additional weights made. 14" OD x 2" thick. I put two of these on each wheel. The weight of those plus the spacers should be just over 500 lbs.

Not sure if I like the look of the black wheel weights in the rims. I may paint them JD Yellow...

 

[newt92]

I agree 110%, paint the weights yellow!! Tractor looks funny from the rear, but if it works for your needs, good job!!

 

[Deadman]

I definately looks silly being so wide in the rear, but I bet its stable as heck.

 

[sugarloafguy]

Hi Guys,

I am looking for a tractor for my dad to replace our Case 1120. The Deere 2520 is definitely in the running along with the Massey 1528 and Kubota 2630 & 3030. I have to say I find this to be an irritating problem with the 2520 along with Deere'e lack of a 3-speed hydro, a decent seat like the X-Series S/E and their Mickey Mouse 47" snowblower setup. I like this machine but why does Deere feel so compelled to cut corners on everything but the price? A blower that is too narrow for the tractor? Nod goes to Kubota and Massey and NH here as all have 60's avail. All others have loaders designed for that specific model tractor, good seating and no need to drill a hole in the fender for the ind. mower lift or add a diverter valve for the MMM. Do they have a rear remote outlet avail yet? My Case had that from the factory in 1994 along with a tilt wheel. At the end of the day, this is still a sweet tractor but why should we have to change seats, add wheel spacers and MMM front caster zerks and otherwise re-design a nice tractor? Not being a jerk here just hoping Deere is a frequent reader and hears some legitimate concerns. I will prob buy him this machine since an old supervisor at Hood works for a big Deere shop 10 minutes from his house.