I’m considering it. DeWalts new top handle 60V works for me cause I already have a bunch of 9AH & 12AH 60V batteries.Why alot of the climbers having to go to battery top handles too.
Amen!!! I received a new Stihl MS194T saw for my birthday. Although it's a small fairly lightweight saw made for pruning and other light duty cutting, it's a killer to crank. The pull cord goes up about halfway up and stops at the compression stoke level. To crank that POS you just about have to tear your arm off to get it to a full start cycle.Echo has to be the easiest saw to start IMO.
Replacement parts become inconsequential (other than chain loops and infrequently bars) if the saw is taken care of, good example is my 028WB Stihl which is not a 'pro saw', never has been, back then there was no differentiation like that. 45+ years of use and no engine related issues. How many people actually keep a saw that long and actually use it? Not many I'd guess.The companies classify them that way. They are listed as such in their catalogs. Largely the materials that the head, piston, rings, and other components are constructed with. Pro saws also have a higher percentage of replaceable parts. Your large Stihl saws are pro saws.
I never use that chain. I don't like the graduated rakers anyway, nor do I care for the limited tooth material that greatly reduces grind life.Can see the tiny micro 1/4" cutter chain in there compared to full size 1/4. Thats what 150 comes with micro.
View attachment 862511View attachment 862512
I believe you can get a 'Stihl' with a wind up starter system for those that have weak wrists, not that I'd ever have one anyway. The Echo I-30 starting system works just fine and reduces starting effort appreciably. Husky don't even count...lolAmen!!! I received a new Stihl MS194T saw for my birthday. Although it's a small fairly lightweight saw made for pruning and other light duty cutting, it's a killer to crank. The pull cord goes up about halfway up and stops at the compression stoke level. To crank that POS you just about have to tear your arm off to get it to a full start cycle.
Hopefully it'll get easier to start after using it to cut a number of trees, that is, if my arm lasts that long. Your Echo suggestion certainly sounds best.
Replacement parts become inconsequential (other than chain loops and infrequently bars) if the saw is taken care of, good example is my 028WB Stihl which is not a 'pro saw', never has been, back then there was no differentiation like that. 45+ years of use and no engine related issues. How many people actually keep a saw that long and actually use it? Not many I'd guess.
Far as I'm concerned the 'pro saw' notation is nothing but an avenue to up the cost and not much more and a whole lot less.