Echo 2511T is an amazing saw!

[xyz123]

The PIPE Jason sells for work saws. Dyno numbers for the little guy.

EPS Exhaust Pipe - Echo 2511

Bolt on more power with an Egan Performance “header pipe" to your Echo 2511 chainsaw for an immediate increase in power and throttle response and a reduction of engine temperatures. Independent dyno sheets show an increase of 28% in horsepower. Note: 2 mounting bolts are provided as the oem...

eganperformancesaws.com

 

[5030]

Considering how inefficient a stock muffler is as far as scavenging exhaust gasses, anything can be an improvement. Muffs on chainsaws today are designed for consumer noise abatement and not efficient scavenging of exhaust (pulses) anyway. Of course the addition of a Bark Box or the Egan 'pipe' will always result in excessive noise no matter what, but then the addition of a tuned expansion chamber (without a stinger on the end) does the same deed aka: excessive noise.

Not something I'm interested in and if I need more power, I'll just buy a larger displacement saw. Back when I was much younger, I had tuned expansion chambers on both my 400 square barrel Maico as well as my 400CR Husky MX bikes. Both were obnoxiously loud. Even had one on my Penton 250 ISDT bike I rode in the woods up in PA in the day. I rode with Jack Penton occasionally. I grew up near Amherst, Ohio where team Penton was based at. Actually, the Penton ISDT bile was a modified KTM, modded by Jack for a specific use as in high speed ISDT and hare and hound competition.

Just fond memories now. Way too old for that stuff now.

 

[kozal01]

Got the Egan pipe in today and installed. Haven't tuned the carb yet but so far its awesome! Its really not too loud, especially with ear pro on and boy is it snappy! Its got a good crackle to it too, love this saw even more now. Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[JeepHead]

Got the Egan pipe in today and installed. Haven't tuned the carb yet but so far its awesome! Its really not too loud, especially with ear pro on and boy is it snappy! Its got a good crackle to it too, love this saw even more now. Thanks for the recommendation!

Heck yeah! It's my favorite of all of my saws just because it's such a little screamer and you rarely feel holding it. Can run it all day and not tire out....

 

[kozal01]

Heck yeah! It's my favorite of all of my saws just because it's such a little screamer and you rarely feel holding it. Can run it all day and not tire out....

Yeah its become my go-to saw as well. I love my Stihl MS261 for bigger stuff but I find myself grabbing the 2511 more and more, awesome little saw.

 

[kozal01]

This is after the initial tune, going to fine tune it when I use it this weekend. Throttle response is insanely fast and top end is higher RPM. This thing rips!

 

[5030]

Actually, the Stihl top handle arborist saw is just as light and easy to start and probably a bit better build quality as well but the price is the knocker at 700 bucks. I know I had one and ran it over with the bucket truck and I wasn't about to buy another one for that price and I sure wasn't going to buy a Chinese saw either. The Echo and the Stihl are clamshell engines anyway and I presume the Chinese Farmtek is as well. Interestingly the little Echo is the only saw I own with a primer bulb.

 

[kozal01]

Actually, the Stihl top handle arborist saw is just as light and easy to start and probably a bit better build quality as well but the price is the knocker at 700 bucks. I know I had one and ran it over with the bucket truck and I wasn't about to buy another one for that price and I sure wasn't going to buy a Chinese saw either. The Echo and the Stihl are clamshell engines anyway and I presume the Chinese Farmtek is as well. Interestingly the little Echo is the only saw I own with a primer bulb.

The lightest Stihl top handle saw is 1/2 pound heavier and less displacement. It also feels like a brick in the hand compared to the 2511T. Also this video shows the quality difference between the two. I love Stihl, but in the small top handle saws Echo has it.

 

[5030]

I don't 'love' any saw or my Kubota tractors either. All are just tools that perform a job and saws, like tractors must be maintained to be efficient.

I sharpen a load of chains, make up new chains and can quite a few as well. Last time I ran the chain sharpeners (I have 2 motorized sharpeners), I ground and set the depth gages on about 150 loops. If the drive tangs are rusty, they go in the scrap can and I sharpen everything from the little loops to the large ones. Everything from low pro to 404. just not square tooth or carbide tipped.

Have 2 professional arborist companies I sharpen for (and grind their chipper knives and anvils as well). Arborists used to just toss a dull chain, but with inflation and the ever increasing cost of made up loops today, they have found that it's better to sharpen them a couple times and then can them. One thing about my personal saws and that is, the chains are always razor sharp. A dull chain always brings out the worst in any saw and is a total waste of gas and bar oil, not to mention that a dull chain eats up guide bars too.

 

[kozal01]

I don't 'love' any saw or my Kubota tractors either. All are just tools that perform a job and saws, like tractors must be maintained to be efficient.

I sharpen a load of chains, make up new chains and can quite a few as well. Last time I ran the chain sharpeners (I have 2 motorized sharpeners), I ground and set the depth gages on about 150 loops. If the drive tangs are rusty, they go in the scrap can and I sharpen everything from the little loops to the large ones. Everything from low pro to 404. just not square tooth or carbide tipped.

Have 2 professional arborist companies I sharpen for (and grind their chipper knives and anvils as well). Arborists used to just toss a dull chain, but with inflation and the ever increasing cost of made up loops today, they have found that it's better to sharpen them a couple times and then can them. One thing about my personal saws and that is, the chains are always razor sharp. A dull chain always brings out the worst in any saw and is a total waste of gas and bar oil, not to mention that a dull chain eats up guide bars too.

Ok? Is there a point here somewhere?