pole barn designing 40x64ish

[LD1]

Thanks for the pics. Just what I am looking for. Different methods and designs. As they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I am looking at all of them to determine whatvis most economical.

One question..is that a 2x8 or 2x10 top an bottom of those trusses? I know they span 2',more than I am looking, and are spaced 10 OC instead of 8 OC, but it makes me question the use of 2x6's on the trusses I have been quoted. MSR rated or not.

 

[chevy]

The top cord on the trusses is 2 x 10 southern yellow pine. The bottom is 2 x 8 SYP.

 

[sixdogs]

When I built my first self-contracted pole barn years ago I just went into a quality big name barn I liked and duplicated what I saw. I added a little extra but mostly board for board. They had decades of experience, were engineered and way past the learning curve. Building turned out great.

Oh, it always cost more than you think. I think it's one of Murphy's laws.

 

[LD1]

The top cord on the trusses is 2 x 10 southern yellow pine. The bottom is 2 x 8 SYP.

Do you happen to know what the snow load rating is for them?

 

[LD1]

When I built my first self-contracted pole barn years ago I just went into a quality big name barn I liked and duplicated what I saw. I added a little extra but mostly board for board. They had decades of experience, were engineered and way past the learning curve. Building turned out great.

Oh, it always cost more than you think. I think it's one of Murphy's laws.

There is a building on one of the adjacent properties that I will be building on. It is a building that my grandpa had built 30 or 40 years ago built my morton. Pretty close to the size I am building. 45x72 I think. Been in the building hundreds of times but never really payed close attention to the finer construction details. I will be taking a closer look at it before I build.:thumbsup:

 

[chevy]

Do you happen to know what the snow load rating is for them?

I do not know what the numbers are for the snow load. I do know it was what is required for this area.

 

[sixdogs]

There is a building on one of the adjacent properties that I will be building on. It is a building that my grandpa had built 30 or 40 years ago built my morton. Pretty close to the size I am building. 45x72 I think. Been in the building hundreds of times but never really payed close attention to the finer construction details. I will be taking a closer look at it before I build.:thumbsup:

Good. I have seen many guys redesign the wheel when building a barn. They mentally start from scratch, learn everything new but usually make some sort of simple but avoidable mistake along the way. I did it. On the next barn i built I duplicated a Morton and used a little extra bracing along the way. Posts 7'6" on center and 2x4's on edge with a metal roof will hold an Ohio snow load around my area.

One thing I would mention. There is a new type of concrete post thing that goes in the ground and stops just above grade. Your posts or 2 x's take over from there. I don't think you'll ever have a problem with just posts in the ground in Ohio but it's worth a look. Same for lightning rods. Ohio has lots of lightning storms and rods help. Doing a barn wit rods is not very expensive.

Adding to the other barn will give you a wonderful setup. You'll have machinery storage, work space, and a spot for a loft or office.

 

[jimgerken]

If you are looking for different ideas to consider, here is a thread on another site where I documented pretty well the design and construction of a pole-type shop building I built. The main erection was contracted out, and I did all else. This thread outlines the exact opposite of copying a Morton building. The choices made were for very specific reasons, which are outlined in the thread. Posts numbers 1 and 2 outline some of the design decisions. Post number 16 shows a detailed plan of the foundation and wall construction. Take a look at the pictures at least, and read more if anything peaks your interest. Enjoy...35X60 shop design in Minnesota

 

[rswyan]

... Posts 7'6" on center and 2x4's on edge with a metal roof will hold an Ohio snow load around my area.

I'm in northeast Ohio (although in the secondary lake-effect snowbelt, not in the primary one) and that is how my Cleary 42 x 72 polebarn is built ... it has held up fine for the last 10 years.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Just came upon this thread and a few things caught my attention, at least based on the way we build up here, no idea how that applies in your area. Also, I have zero experience with buildings with roof purlins on edge, only flat.

Personally, I don't like the idea of site-built laminated posts. The joints, glued or not are more places for water to get in and rot to start. Under the same drainage conditions, a 6x6 post will always outlast a triple 2x6. There is a company in PA that factory makes them and I would use them in a heartbeat but difficult to get them shipped here. I paid nearly double for 8x8x16 than I would have paid for equivalent 22' laminated. Look up 'Rigid Ply Rafters'

I don't understand the design detail of 'not having to notch the post for the beam' with site laminated posts. The layers need to be perpendicular to the wall surface for the greatest strength. You wouldn't do your roof purlins @ 12' length by laying 3 layers of 2x6 on the flat. With a sharp chainsaw it won't take more than a minute to carefully cut each notch.

Load bearing scabs nailed to the side of a post is a poor substitute for making a proper notch.

IF you do decide to site-build your laminated posts, plan to have the shortest length of PT stop a foot above grade not at grade.

Don't forget that your time is worth something too. If it took me an hr to build a post to save 10 or 15 bucks, if buy the 6x6 and be done with it.

I wish I could afford to replace the falling down barn that I have for a proper shop but I'll have to settle for building the odd one for customers instead for now

I wish you the best with your project

 

[countrybumpkin]

Finally received a quote on a 40 x 80 x14 , to frame the entire building, and insulate and install the roof, and supply the rest of the insulation and wall metal was 18,600.

 

[ultrarunner]

Sure sounds like a deal when just the permits would cost nearly as much here...

 

[LD1]

Finally received a quote on a 40 x 80 x14 , to frame the entire building, and insular and install the roof, and supply the rest of the insulation and wall metal was 18,600.

Yea, If I could get a quote like that, I would probably be hiring it done.

My quotes were a few grand higher, and a lesser building. (40x64x14)

 

[countrybumpkin]

Sure sounds like a deal when just the permits would cost nearly as much here...

Permits, what are those. )

Yeah I think I'm going to have him build this one. The last one I had him do that was at the old house was 15 years old and really liked it.

 

[ultrarunner]

Now it's really a deal if you have a good relationship with the builder from past work!

 

[woodchipper]

What a great deal! I would'nt pass over it! I had a quote for a 32x48 enclosed (metal roof and siding)pole building with one man door, and two eight foot main sliding doors, for 16K$. And that is only the material.

 

[thorholt]

I am also looking at building this spring and this is one of the options I am looking at, 42x56x12 with 12x12 garage door, walk in door, windows was $20,600 for materials, very strong for our snow loads up here.
Henry Building Systems | The nation's strongest steel buildings

 

[countrybumpkin]

Those look like a nice building. I still have to get some of the ground work finished , not sure when I will get it, hopefully a couple weeks. He ordered materials this week and if no big weather problems will be ready to start about 2 Ndebele week of February.

 

[GManBart]

I am also looking at building this spring and this is one of the options I am looking at, 42x56x12 with 12x12 garage door, walk in door, windows was $20,600 for materials, very strong for our snow loads up here.
Henry Building Systems | The nation's strongest steel buildings

With only one door it seems you always have to move something to get something else out. Everyone's situation is different, but it can be really handy to have an extra overhead door...maybe for the one machine that you always want to be able to get at instantly. I like that because I don't like starting machines I'm not going to run long enough to get up to temperature (especially in the cold weather).

I put two big doors on the front of the building (18 wide by 12 high) and smaller doors on the gabble ends (12 wide by 10 high) and I find I'm using all four of them pretty regularly. I think I'd rather have one less of the big doors than give up an end door just based off how I'm using things now.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yeah the more doors the better for access, also in warmer climates if your not using A/C in the shop , it will allow for a lot of cross ventilation.