Overhead Door Openers

[bdhsfz6]

Over the years, I've installed 5 of these openers on the sectional overhead doors of my three buildings. All are the ceiling mount, chain driven models. All have served me well for over 30 years until last week when one failed on one of my 10' x 10' barn doors. After taking it apart, I found the gearbox had just plain worn out. All 5 openers are the same 30+ year old Craftsman model and all are showing similar wear. Since parts are no longer available, I decided to bite the bullet and replace them all while I'm still able to do the work myself. I chose wall mount units instead of the overhead type. The cost was about 30% more but the advantages of easier installation and less maintenance make the extra $$ worth it. I can also benefit from the extra overhead space.

These wall mount or jackshaft type openers have been around for quite a few years now and except for the added cost, seem to be well reviewed. All the big names in the business, Chaimberlain, Genie, Liftmaster, etc. have similar models. I chose Genie:

Amazon.com

I installed the first unit yesterday. It took around 2 hours including the removal of the old opener. The Jackshaft model is definitely quieter, a bit slower but perfectly acceptable for my needs. My concern is, the stresses on the door are different with this jackshaft system. Basically, the overhead model pulled the door up by the top section whereas the wall mount model lifts the door from the bottom. The reviews on these openers don't go back very far and I wonder how well they will hold up over time.

Does anyone here have any experience with these wall mount jackshaft openers?

 

[ponytug]

Over the years, I've installed 5 of these openers on the sectional overhead doors of my three buildings. All are the ceiling mount, chain driven models. All have served me well for over 30 years until last week when one failed on one of my 10' x 10' barn doors. After taking it apart, I found the gearbox had just plain worn out. All 5 openers are the same 30+ year old Craftsman model and all are showing similar wear. Since parts are no longer available, I decided to bite the bullet and replace them all while I'm still able to do the work myself. I chose wall mount units instead of the overhead type. The cost was about 30% more but the advantages of easier installation and less maintenance make the extra $$ worth it. I can also benefit from the extra overhead space.

These wall mount or jackshaft type openers have been around for quite a few years now and except for the added cost, seem to be well reviewed. All the big names in the business, Chaimberlain, Genie, Liftmaster, etc. have similar models. I chose Genie:

Amazon.com

I installed the first unit yesterday. It took around 2 hours including the removal of the old opener. The Jackshaft model is definitely quieter, a bit slower but perfectly acceptable for my needs. My concern is, the stresses on the door are different with this jackshaft system. Basically, the overhead model pulled the door up by the top section whereas the wall mount model lifts the door from the bottom. The reviews on these openers don't go back very far and I wonder how well they will hold up over time.

Does anyone here have any experience with these wall mount jackshaft openers?

Congratulations!

The jackshaft driven designhave been used commercially for decades, so I think that there is nothing in particular wrong with concept. Digital microcontrollers have just lowered the cost enormously. That is not to say that any given jackshaft model is great. My personal concern would just be that the drive motor assembly is fastened to support (plywood or metal) that spreads the load (torque) out over a number of studs.

All the best,

Peter

 

[LD1]

I have a liftmaster version on my 18w x 12h door.

A neighbor has two liftmasters on 14x14 doors and another neighbor has 3 genies on 14x14 doors. All insulated doors.

They are fine openers. And I am actually surprised it was 30% more. A standard opener is indeed cheaper on a standard 7' or even 8' door opening. But on the taller doors, with the track/chain extensions adding cost.....then mounting the opener suspended from the ceiling somewhere.....usually over 10' the jackshaft openers become similar or even cheaper in cost.

But you are overthinking the stresses on the door. As long as the springs are set right.....winding the jackshaft cable and pulling from the bottom of the door is no different than simply opening the door by hand with the opener decoupled like when the power is out.

 

[Cycledude]

My shop has a 10x12 overhead door, it originally had a 1/2 hp lift-master chain drive opener, the shaft on the opener broke twice, after the second time I replaced it with a 3/4 horse belt drive Chamberlain opener and never had anymore trouble.

 

[deserteagle71]

Are you sure there are no rebuild kits for your Craftsman door openers? I have three of them in my garage about 30 years old; when one failed a couple years ago (stripped gears on a nylon gear wheel) I was able to buy complete rebuild kits and rebuilt all 3 so should be good to go for the rest of my life!

 

[bdhsfz6]

Are you sure there are no rebuild kits for your Craftsman door openers? I have three of them in my garage about 30 years old; when one failed a couple years ago (stripped gears on a nylon gear wheel) I was able to buy complete rebuild kits and rebuilt all 3 so should be good to go for the rest of my life!

I actually replaced that nylon gear in the failed unit about 10 years ago. Yes, that part is still available but this time, the gearbox basically fell apart. Ball bearings & gear teeth scattered all over inside the housing. The gearbox is a sealed unit and, from what I found, is not available anymore. I did find the part online but it was listed as discontinued. The price was about half the cost of a new opener.

At 77, taking down and replacing parts in these overhead openers is getting harder to do. Since the other 4 units are showing similar wear, I decided to throw some $$ at the problem and replace them all. The replacement jackshaft openers are much easier to install & maintain and with any luck, will outlast me. I can also use the space freed up by these overhead openers and the new jackshaft models are compatible with the built in remotes in our vehicles. The WiFi feature is also handy if we forget to close a door.

Thanks anyway for the suggestion.

 

[dougtrr2]

I think it was a smart move to just replace all five at once, given their age. When I finally added a third stall I had three new openers installed. The most difficult part was deciphering the process to change the codes on the openers, get the remotes to work, and then get the mirror buttons on my two cars to work and the outside key pad to work. The instructions left a lot to be desired and at one point I would hit one button and one door would go up and the other go down. A lot of up and down the ladder that day.

Doug in SW IA

 

[scootr]

I think it was a smart move to just replace all five at once, given their age. When I finally added a third stall I had three new openers installed. The most difficult part was deciphering the process to change the codes on the openers, get the remotes to work, and then get the mirror buttons on my two cars to work and the outside key pad to work. The instructions left a lot to be desired and at one point I would hit one button and one door would go up and the other go down. A lot of up and down the ladder that day.

Doug in SW IA

We are in the tech overload age. Every little thing comes with a 10 page manual. Cars come with 300 page booklets and the index still doesn't list the simplest thing like a fuel filter... I believe tech will become more self-sufficient in the future and program itself.

 

[lilranch2001]

Don’t bet on it….

 

[woody]

Reading this thread with interest, it got me to thinking about installing a door opener on my shop I have not had the door on there but a few months and am already thinking about putting an opener on it. But it is a 12x12 rollup door and the abundance of options are confusing. Never had a powered rollup door before.

 

[newbury]

and with any luck, will outlast me.

That's not the way to think. With innovations in modern medicine you may be living a happy healthy life another 40 years!

 

[repete]

I have the side mount unit and like that the track for the door can rise the door to within inches of the ceiling. It actually goes up maybe four more feet before it begins to turn.
The track can also be put at an angle to hug the ceiling if your ceiling vault runs parallel to the door opening.

 

[oosik]

I learned something when I built a garage in Anchorage. A neighbor built his garage and had the floor slope to the garage door. Idea being - all the snow/ice on his vehicle would melt and run out - under the garage door.

This proved to be a mistake on a few occasions. His garage was not kept hot enough and it was one of those times when Anchorage had a "Polar blast". The melt water would freeze right at the garage door. He stripped his opener trying to get the door open. His solution - run the garage temp up to around 80F. This would thaw the ice at the garage door - usually.

I had the entire concrete floor slope to a central drain. Especially from the garage door.

Never had a problem with a frozen down garage door.

 

[GSVette]

I have a Liftmaster unit on my 16x12 shop door-really like it. I have 3 of the units at my main house as well. It’s nice having the deadbolt locking mechanism-makes the doors feel more secure.

About the only thing I don’t like is the failure mode on the wall control- when mine have failed ( twice now)- they fail and the door opens, uncommanded. There have been fairly numerous complaints about this to Liftmaster but to the best of my knowledge nothing has been done. I addressed the issue by installing the internet gateway which allows me to monitor the door status as well as informing me if it opens or closes.

 

[grsthegreat]

Reading this thread with interest, it got me to thinking about installing a door opener on my shop I have not had the door on there but a few months and am already thinking about putting an opener on it. But it is a 12x12 rollup door and the abundance of options are confusing. Never had a powered rollup door before.

My shops roll up door has a Gliderol roll up mechanism installed inside the drum of the door. Works smooth and fast for over 12 years now. Easy install.

 

[dstig1]

I have had 2 of them for a few years now as my shop doors are too tall for the regular style coupled with the Hi lift tracks that go up to the ceiling so i don't lose headroom for the tracks. Liftmaster/Chamberlin I think. Seem to work well and yeah this style is common in commercial and industrial applications for a long time but have only really started appearing in residential more recently. They do require the door to have some weight still there in the open position or when they start to close, it may not move since it just unwinds the drum cable, essentially. I like them overall

 

[bdhsfz6]

But you are overthinking the stresses on the door. As long as the springs are set right.....winding the jackshaft cable and pulling from the bottom of the door is no different than simply opening the door by hand with the opener decoupled like when the power is out.

I suppose stress isn't the correct term. My main concern is, if the jackshaft continues to turn after the door is closed, the cables go slack and slip off the drums. The newer Genie models are equipped with spring loaded "cable keepers" which take up some of this slack but only to a point. It is critical that the down stop position is set correctly and that the setting is maintained accurately by the opener electronics. The same holds true for the open or up stop position.

The old Craftsman overhead openers used mechanically operated switches to control the open & closed stops. Once set, they rarely, if ever, needed adjustment. With the lightning storms we get and the frequent power surges, it remains to be seen how well these electronically controlled systems hold up.

 

[LD1]

I suppose stress isn't the correct term. My main concern is, if the jackshaft continues to turn after the door is closed, the cables go slack and slip off the drums. The newer Genie models are equipped with spring loaded "cable keepers" which take up some of this slack but only to a point. It is critical that the down stop position is set correctly and that the setting is maintained accurately by the opener electronics. The same holds true for the open or up stop position.

The old Craftsman overhead openers used mechanically operated switches to control the open & closed stops. Once set, they rarely, if ever, needed adjustment. With the lightning storms we get and the frequent power surges, it remains to be seen how well these electronically controlled systems hold up.

Dont know about the genie.....

But yes the electronic stops are critical. But same for a conventional opener or you can damage the door.

But even if the electronics fail.....there is a cable slack sensor. The split second there is no tension on the cable, the door will stop and reverse.
As long as its installed properly, I have never seen a slack cable come off the drum on a jackshaft opener.
But even if it did.....it isnt any different than a cable coming off the drum on a conventional opener...which I have seen happen as well for various reasons

 

[Hughman]

I was planning on installing conventional overhead openers on my sectional doors but now I'm wondering if I should use the side mount openers. Do they allow the doors to be raised all the way into the overhead tracks so that the door opening is completely clear? I have barely any clearance with the tractor canopy on an 8' door opening.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I was planning on installing conventional overhead openers on my sectional doors but now I'm wondering if I should use the side mount openers. Do they allow the doors to be raised all the way into the overhead tracks so that the door opening is completely clear? I have barely any clearance with the tractor canopy on an 8' door opening.

The door must close on it's own by gravity for a wall mount opener to work. Fully open doors usually aren't an issue if they have been installed properly with the track sloped slightly toward the opening. Some doors with low head room kits can be a problem though.