Need guidance on BB for CT230

[Sabretooth]

Wanted to ask 230 owners and everybody else(so chime in) what size BoxBlade they are running and why I was looking for a 5.5 for the 230 but they are harder to come by and figured I would go up to the 6' footer just because I want to cover my tracks. The ones I am looking at are by Modern they are galvanized one is what they call the Standard it comes in at about 580lbs (1/4" sides) and the other is Contractor at 835(3/8" sides)with a hinged back BOTH have hydrualic rippers. Now can a 230 do good with a six foot BB I saw Bobcat says there Heavyduty one is listed for 230 in the 6' size I just really do not want to do this tractor in. I was going to post this in attachments but really wanted to hear from the BobCatCrew Thanks for your input




I am also thinking of adding this Top&Tilt so everything will be done by seat except angle
http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm

 

[birddriver]

When I did a demo with a 230 it had a 6 foot box on the back. I used it on my 530 foot driveway and moved some dirt. It seemd to handle it just fine. I have the GP/R4 tires on mine and were on the demo unit also, the biggest problem was traction. When I get my own BB I am going for a 6'.

 

[Sabretooth]

Thanks Birddriver a little more at ease do you know what BB was on your demo that way I can see what the weight is.

 

[Canada_CT230]

I have the BC 60" Box Blade. It is made by Rhino.

I would agree that a 6' would work but if you are doing serious ripping then I wouldn't go over 5'.

My 5' will pull the 230 down to a crawl while ripping a hard packed gravel driveway. I think a 6' would stop it.

Traction is your worse enemy.

 

[Sabretooth]

Mostly I will be building grading then speading rock for a new driveway before it gets hot CanadaCT230 does it help at all with the traction if you keep the bucket full . Do you find with the final grading you do not cover your tracks BTW were almost on the same amount got a little over 15ac to maintain here Funny when I was looking for a house nobody bothered to tell me that upkeep on it would work out to another full time job.

 

[Canada_CT230]

Yup, I have 17 acres. I know the feeling about a second job. I actually go to my real job to relax and have a break on Monday mornings!

The 60" covers the tracks. I graded some of my land for a runway last summer using the box blade.

Never tried the full bucket to improve traction. My machine keeps going with the 60". We had really bad ruts and wash board in it last spring. I put the rippers down and ripped it up to the max and the 60" box blade worked good. I think any bigger would stop the tractor.

 

[Sabretooth]

Thinking about a vacation maybe permanent from reality and thats only after 5yrs here in Texas man I grew up in NY and drove a trailer trough the 5boroughs and up and down the east coast BUT I just do not know how people live here everyday.
Now you just need to tell me how you paid for all that first the tractor That I got about same time as you mine finally came in Dec16,09 after ordering it in June then those Bobcat attachments:thumbsup: I promise I wont tell anyone what did you watch them crash a trailer load of Bobcat stuff on the interstate and just pick out what you wanted.

Glad yours does not leave tracks but I measured my width at the rear tire and I came up just about 62" guess a inch either side wont matter I will start looking at some 5' see what price I can come up with I did see a used 5' Cammond with 4rippers on CL for $375 might go look tomorrow cheapest Ive seen down here around Dallas they treat it like gold. I Was really hoping since I can get the Standard galv. w/Hyd rippers for $799 in the 6' that it could handle it too bad he does not have any 5's. But thats why I wanted to ask before I brought though thanks Canada_CT230

 

[Canada_CT230]

How did I pay for it all? A good banker.

I paid for the tractor with a line of credit...and still paying.

My attachments, I purchased one at a time. I started with only the tiller, then the box blade, then a used set of pallet forks, then the cultivator and the latest is a JD snowblower.

I used a couple of the $250 off coupons last year for the BB and cultivator. That brought the prices down to what comparable 3rd party attachments would cost.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My gut feeling is that a 6' heavy duty box is just too much for your size of tractor, especially when using the rippers. That's not to say that you could not get by with a 6', just that it would be a job to use it. Do you have any hills that you will be working on, or just flat land? If it is just flat, then you could probably get by with the 6 footer. My feeling is that you should be able to pull a full box up the steepest hill that you would ever be working on. If not, the the box is to big in my opinion. I have a Mahindra 3215HST. Right about the same size & HP tractor as the CT225-230-235. I have it to where it weighs right about 5000lbs. I have a heavy duty roll over box blade that is 66" wide. I can pull a full load as in the picture up hill in mid range. I doubt that I would be able to pull a 6 footer with that type of a load.

 

[Sabretooth]

Thanks guys for your input on this MtnViewRanch I do have a decent hill I live on so yes I thought I might tax tractor too much with the 6' thats why I was posting the question esspecially to the CT230 owners just because of the weight difference of the tractor to other brands on some its about 1k Lbs more dont know if that makes a difference but thought it might. I do not know too much bout the boxblade thats kinda new to me

Now I am split 50/50 by 1 230(5') and 1 3215(5.5') for too much and 2 230 owners that used 6' which one said in PM that fully engaded scarifers and full load low is a problem(traction) but a half load in mid is not

Just hate givinng up that Modern Hyd.for $799 for a smaller more expensive one like Bobcat,Cammond,Gannon or that nice roll over and then the other ones not built as Heavy like Peidmont,Atlas or United of which weigh anywhere around 200Lbs less give or take with no down pressure from 3point think it will make those ones just run over the rock and hard dirt not cut in.

I did find a Used Cammond 5' for $375 on Cl down here in decent condition nothing bent or worn out looks just paint just do not know is it a good price or not?

 

[Canada_CT230]

I wouldn't worry about hyd rippers. When your ripping, your ripping. Then you put them up and start grading.

My hyd top link allows me to control the rippers pretty well. Allowing me to let them dig in more or less by the angles of the teeth.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks guys for your input on this MtnViewRanch I do have a decent hill I live on so yes I thought I might tax tractor too much with the 6' thats why I was posting the question esspecially to the CT230 owners just because of the weight difference of the tractor to other brands on some its about 1k Lbs more dont know if that makes a difference but thought it might. I do not know too much bout the boxblade thats kinda new to me

Now I am split 50/50 by 1 230(5') and 1 3215(5.5') for too much and 2 230 owners that used 6' which one said in PM that fully engaded scarifers and full load low is a problem(traction) but a half load in mid is not

Just hate givinng up that Modern Hyd.for $799 for a smaller more expensive one like Bobcat,Cammond,Gannon or that nice roll over and then the other ones not built as Heavy like Peidmont,Atlas or United of which weigh anywhere around 200Lbs less give or take with no down pressure from 3point think it will make those ones just run over the rock and hard dirt not cut in.

I did find a Used Cammond 5' for $375 on Cl down here in decent condition nothing bent or worn out looks just paint just do not know is it a good price or not?

I would say that that is a great price for the Cammond. Get it and if your tractor will handle more you could sell it and easily get your money back and go get a bigger one. The heavier the box blade, the better it will work. Remember, weight is your friend when it comes to grading. You just have to get the right amount of weight to get the optimum performance from the tractor and the implement. I would say 800-1000lbs for the BB, 60-66" wide especially with the hill that you have. Do you have or are you going to fill your tires? This will make a big big difference on how well the tractor performs while doing any dirt work. Are you still considering top and tilt? "TnT" makes a world of difference when you're grading.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I wouldn't worry about hyd rippers. When your ripping, your ripping. Then you put them up and start grading.

My hyd top link allows me to control the rippers pretty well. Allowing me to let them dig in more or less by the angles of the teeth.

When one has hydraulic rippers, one uses them in a different manor then when you have to either get off of the tractor and raise each one separately or use the box itself, but with the incorrect angle on the moldboard and rippers. Don't most of the individual adjusted rippers actually only go below the box 3-4 inches? When you have hydraulic rippers or a roll-over such as I have, the rippers can go into the ground 8-10 inches. So that is not quite the same as what the std box blades are is it? I do not no this for a fact, I have never had a std type of box blade, but from looking at them, that is what I see. :confused3:

 

[turbo660]

When one has hydraulic rippers, one uses them in a different manor then when you have to either get off of the tractor and raise each one separately or use the box itself, but with the incorrect angle on the moldboard. Don't most of the individual adjusted rippers actually only go below the box 3-4 inches? When you have hydraulic rippers or a roll-over such as I have, the rippers can go into the ground 8-10 inches. So that is not quite the same as what the std box blades are is it? I do not no this for a fact, I have never had a std type of box blade, but from looking at them, that is what I see. :confused3:

I've got a std. King Kutter BB, and would have to say your about right.

Sabertooth, I should add that I do not have my tires filled which can /does contribute to loss of traction

 

[Sabretooth]

Sorry Guys but bear with me
So let me get this straight if I buy the 6' with the Hyd scarifers I would be able to dig deeper but not pull but also I can just raise the box and still be ripping in without pulling then go another pass pulling? Canada says his 5'BB covers his tracks but with the 6' I can use it like turbo660 like a blade angled to dig a trench and not worry about being to close to edge? I also like the Contractor better it has thicker 3/8 sides and a hinge back is it worth another $300 more than the Standard with 1/4"sides and no hinge back?. The guy that I contacted has both the Standard&Contractor in either Hyd or ratcheting scarifers in 6' and racheting would be $50 less on either of them both are galvanized He does not have any 5's or 5.5's. I will have to contact guy with the Modern stuff and see what its teeth depth is with it fully engaged also something I noticed is this okay there is no bracing in middle to back of box like the Gannon/Cammond ones.

Now I went to the local yards around here to see what they had one guy has New but rusted Howse 6' for $450cash+ and a used heavy 6' with some sort of hand lever to raise and lower the scarifers for $600+ another guy has a 5'Bobcat regual boxblade for $350 and few others all are used and do not have scarifers. A Old but serviceble Stervis? 5.5' lever type raise and drop scarifers really heavy duty looking for $800+ and a used orange Hyd. LandPride 6' HYD looked like Gannons and similar to Moderns for $1100. Just making that one on CL for $375 look good. I am thinking these are all taxed on top except the Modern as he said thats incuded

So these are my choices guys order Lowest to highest

1. Used Bobcat 5' and others with NO scarifers $350
2. Used Cammond 5' w/scarifers CL Not sure still avail $375
3. New Peidmont 5'/6' same forTSC brand and other like $400+
maybe warranty?
4. New Howse 6' rusted $450
5. Used 6' lever scarifers needs new scraping edges $600
6. New Modern 5.5 standard Galv/Warranty $600 reg. scarifers
Found one! in OK. + $50gas to get it
7. New Modern Standard Galv/Hyd/Warranty $799/$749 ratcheting
8. Used 5.5' Stervis? lever scarifers $800
9. New Frontier BB1060/1065 $900
10. Used 6' LandPride Hyd.scarifers $1100 11.New 6' Modern Contrator Galv/Hyd/Warranty $1100/$1049 racheting

Out of these and with a 230 and knowing what I have to do tear up a nonexistant driveway regrade to plant grass build a new driveway grade it and then rock it all on a incline of say 8' to 1' incline give or take this is not a time job either doesnt matter how long I have to work it just that it comes out nice and right does that help at all in deciding? :confused2:this is how I feel just eyeballs are going in opposite direction

And No I do not have the tires loaded I wanted to wait till warranty to run its course before I thought anything after market. That way I did not change anything from delivery and BigBob could not hopefully wiggle out if something broke and say it was my fault because of this or that.

The 1st&2nd one looks kinda like this one with the lever actuated scarifers ?stervis?$800 and other not sure of brand $600 but not refinished 3rd pic is of the Hyd. Land $1100 4th pic is Cammond $375 5th is link to auction nearby here friday of Frontier that sold at $375+buyers+Tax so $430
Frontier Bb1060 Box Blade Sn201318 | Proxibid

Just hate these decisions took over 2yrs and numerous auctions and dealers before buying the Bobcat just wish everything fell into my lap like that. I just want the best I can get, not kill the new tractor that I can never replace for what I paid for it and at the lowest cost not unlike everyone else. Good luck on your mission if you decide to undertake it This message will self destruct in 5 sec.
And Thanks again for helping me decide

 

[turbo660]

Even though some of us use 6' BBs with good results and no issues (broken tractors), if your main concern is to not put any undue stress on your tractor than I would say go with a 5' standard BB w/scarifiers. You could save on weight, stress, and money and maybe even afford to buy a top-n-tilt.

 

[Canada_CT230]

Yes, my rippers only extend 4" below the BB. I can use the TnT to angle a bit more. I like the manual rippers because I can put 1, 2, 3, or all the rippers down. I can use 1 ripper to start a trench...something you can't do with HYD rippers.

The BC boxblade is pretty heavy at 436 lbs.

Remember to only get a BB with a curved blade...you get better results than a straight blade.

 

[Sabretooth]

Thats a good point about using 123or4 to start a trench Canada_CT230 you can do the same with the other as the shanks are replacable I think turbo660meant he was using the one side of the BB angled to start the trench since it stuck past his tire.
What do you mean "Remember to only get a BB with a curved blade...you get better results than a straight blade." are you refering to the arch or curve of the back of the BB or the replaceble cutting edge I was looking at them even the curved back BB had flat cutting edges attached to them mostly 1/2"x6" and 3/8"xaround 6" most looked kinda like my drawing

Please dont laugh at my rendering I know it's bad

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So these are my choices guys order Lowest to highest

1. Used Bobcat 5' and others with NO scarifers $350
2. Used Cammond 5' w/scarifers CL Not sure still avail $375
3. New Peidmont 5'/6' same forTSC brand and other like $400+
maybe warranty?
4. New Howse 6' rusted $450
5. Used 6' lever scarifers needs new scraping edges $600
6. New Modern 5.5 standard Galv/Warranty $600 reg. scarifers
Found one! in OK. + $50gas to get it
7. New Modern Standard Galv/Hyd/Warranty $799/$749 ratcheting
8. Used 5.5' Stervis? lever scarifers $800
9. New Frontier BB1060/1065 $900
10. Used 6' LandPride Hyd.scarifers $1100 11.New 6' Modern Contrator Galv/Hyd/Warranty $1100/$1049 racheting

Well, you have a pretty good choice there.:thumbsup: Based on what you have said, this is what I would do.

I would get #8, clean it up and paint it. Maybe change out the lever on the rippers for a hydraulic later down the road.

If money is tight, then I would buy the Cammond.

I would double check about the loading of the tires. I do not believe that it will affect your warranty at all. In fact I am guessing that there is something in the owners manual telling you how to do it. I know that both of my Mahindra owners manuals address filling the tires. It literally is day and night difference with how well the tractor performs both with the loader and 3pt dirt working implements.

DO NOT GET A LIGHT WEIGHT BOX! It will not perform for you with what you want to do.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[milkman636]

If #8 is like the yellow one in your pictures and 5.5', I think that would be the clear winner.