Bought a new SANY SY50U !

[Seven Gables]

Sorry to hear but thankfully it’s all covered under warranty. If it was me while waiting for service tech I’d clean the ground strap to frame and also check the battery cut off switch .

 

[Coyote machine]

Sorry to hear but thankfully it’s all covered under warranty. If it was me while waiting for service tech I’d clean the ground strap to frame and also check the battery cut off switch .

Actually, the battery isolation switch is about the only thing I did not verify when getting to the battery to test it. I did note that the switch diagram near the switch is erroneous!
It shows vertical for off and left turn to 9 O'clock as 'on'. It's actually the opposite: 3 O'clock is 'ON', instead. I tried the key every which way I could turn it, including removing it completely from it's switch housing, (it's on a lanyard), and never bothered trying to see if when turned on it was completing the circuit through the positive cable to the rest of the machine.
So that could be a possibility I missed when doing the original diagnoses.
I was under the weather at the time so not as focused as usual. I'll look at that when I'm better and can go back out to the big hunk of inoperative metal.

Thanks for the suggestion!, Seven Gables- I appreciate any help to get back up and running.

 

[Seven Gables]

So you did pull the bolt out of the ground strap to frame and polish that connection? , cause that would be my very first guess by the symptoms.

 

[Coyote machine]

No on the ground strap, to date; don't know where it is and not currently able to do a seek and find mission. I did however confirm the battery isolation switch does NOT light my test light whether in the on or off positions on either post of the switch.
The battery is now showing green AND red in the 'eye'. Before it was all green...

Note the service manager did say he has seen similar symptoms where the buried in the fuse box 'sandwiched' diode has failed, and it renders no voltage at the isolation switch regardless of it being turned on or off. Sany has told him when the diode blows/burns the only solution is to replace the entire box- there is no replacing the diode, hence R&R is the fix...

I don't yet know how the wiring from the battery routes through the isolation switch and to the fuse box, etc. I will see what I can find in the service literature and try to get a better understanding of the logic applied.

 

[Seven Gables]

You’re negative cable from the battery post will go directly to the frame where it’s bolted on. This is where it needs to be unbolted and wire brushed shiny clean. If this connection is corroded you won’t have power to the battery cut off switch. I had a brand new tractor with the exact same symptoms as yours and that’s where the fault was. I’m not trying too push you while you’re not feeling well, just like to help you get it fixed when you do get to feeling better.

 

[gtbensley]

No on the ground strap, to date; don't know where it is and not currently able to do a seek and find mission. I did however confirm the battery isolation switch does NOT light my test light whether in the on or off positions on either post of the switch.
The battery is now showing green AND red in the 'eye'. Before it was all green...

Note the service manager did say he has seen similar symptoms where the buried in the fuse box 'sandwiched' diode has failed, and it renders no voltage at the isolation switch regardless of it being turned on or off. Sany has told him when the diode blows/burns the only solution is to replace the entire box- there is no replacing the diode, hence R&R is the fix...

I don't yet know how the wiring from the battery routes through the isolation switch and to the fuse box, etc. I will see what I can find in the service literature and try to get a better understanding of the logic applied.

What do you mean the battery is showing green AND red in the "eye"? Sounds like you might have a bad battery with an internal short. Charging this will do absolutely nothing as its got such a big draw internally.

When you are able, it might be worth taking the battery out of the circuit and seeing if you can jumpstart off another battery (you will need to fully disconnect the one in the machine. I have seen brand new batteries do this before.

Can I ask what part of VT you are in? Shoot me a PM if you rather.

 

[Coyote machine]

Good news!
Spoke to service mgr., their tech will be at my place by 9AM tomorrow. He's bringing everything I mentioned earlier, including a battery, fuse box, etc.
Hopefully I'll be up and running then.
Thanks for the suggestions on what else to do.
For now I'm going to wait for the Calvary!
Got no energy to do anything at the moment. Yeah for warranty!
Will post back results.

 

[gtbensley]

Solved?

 

[Coyote machine]

YES!
Fixed!
It took a battery, a 300 amp fuse, and a new starter too!
The fuse was the big suprise!
YES, 300 amp!

How and why the fuse, atached to the battery positive cable, in close proximity to the positive post blew is still a mystery, and the tech didn't have a spare.
So for now the fuse is on order.
I'm running dangerous!

He had found a 2 amp parasitic draw, prior to removing the 300 amp blown fuse, for which I dont know if it remains now...

Anyway it is now running, YEAH!
more to come, I'm using my cell to send this update...

 

[deezler]

time for some pics already, haha.

Glad you got 'er gorn.