My NX5510H

[DieselBound]

DieselBound: Not trying to be a smart ***, but was curious if you had second thoughts about dealer proximity since you posted on my thread given the issues you've had with you new tractor. Here's what you posted before:

"My Kioti dealer is probably a good 1/2 further away than my Kubota dealer. I didn't feel that the distance was great enough to be concerned with. I don't expect to be hauling the Kioti to the dealer's: it "might" happen, but generally I'm not seeing that the [CUT] tractor-knowledgeable owners are needing to do this- most tend to be able to deal with the little stuff. A LOT depends on how supportive the dealer is: if they're good/easy to work with then that might offset them being further away (than a closer, less easy-to-work-with dealer). Over the long-haul I'd want a tractor that I like over a dealer that I liked. I don't want to diminish the importance of a good dealer (I did note that I find it important), just that sometimes people over-state the importance and so doing sacrifice getting a tractor that would be better for them."

I'm getting ready to select a new tractor and still feel that the dealer proximity is important to me. Thanks, Vic

The distance is moot at this point given that it's the dealer that's responsible for the transport (warranty). I would figure that once this is ironed out I expect it to be the end of this issue. And as noted, I wouldn't really be using the tractor anyway as the weather is poor.

Your priorities are yours. But, the greater probability of issues is with something that's new, and when new the dealer covers any pickup and delivery costs. If you need to use the tractor and it's at the dealer's then, not good: anyone who can predict that their new tractor will have no problems is someone I'd like to consult with!

 

[DK35vince]

The distance is moot at this point given that it's the dealer that's responsible for the transport (warranty). I would figure that once this is ironed out I expect it to be the end of this issue. And as noted, I wouldn't really be using the tractor anyway as the weather is poor.

Your priorities are yours. But, the greater probability of issues is with something that's new, and when new the dealer covers any pickup and delivery costs. If you need to use the tractor and it's at the dealer's then, not good: anyone who can predict that their new tractor will have no problems is someone I'd like to consult with!

Actually most tractor warranties state transportation is not covered.
Some dealers will transport free under warranty and many don't.

 

[DieselBound]

Actually most tractor warranties state transportation is not covered.
Some dealers will transport free under warranty and many don't.

OK, sorry, I should have been more exact with this. In my case the tractor has 7 hours on it. I would not expect free transportation through the entire warranty period.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I'm sorry your having issues with the fittings on the top link, so if I understand right you can't install the second 90 due to clearance issues? I will have to double check mine in the morning but I'm almost positive mine had clearance, not much but just enough.

 

[DieselBound]

I'm sorry your having issues with the fittings on the top link, so if I understand right you can't install the second 90 due to clearance issues? I will have to double check mine in the morning but I'm almost positive mine had clearance, not much but just enough.

country, the JIC end of the elbow will hit the other fitting, which keeps it from being able to be tightened down. I don't think I'm doing anything wrong: I wish I were and I could minimize the height of the stack. A single fitting solution -longer elbow that's BSPP to JIC- is $36! These two fittings from TSC were $12. If I don't like the look/function of them I'll break down and shell out for the $36 fitting.

Regarding hoses, what's people's opinions on whether to put a protective sleeve on the hoses? I'm kind of thinking I might do this for in the back. Contemplating on it for the extra hoses that I'll be getting for the 3rd function on the FEL (just on the FEL side, not from the rear to the bulkhead connector at the FEL connection).

 

[countrybumpkin]

Ok I am defiantly going to have to look at mine tomorrow on the clearance issue. Before I bought a 36 dollar fitting I'd look at getting a bspp to jic straight and then a jic male to jic female swivel 90 that would be about 7 dollars. Not sure the long fitting you posted about would be tall enough even to clear would it?

 

[DieselBound]

Ok I am defiantly going to have to look at mine tomorrow on the clearance issue. Before I bought a 36 dollar fitting I'd look at getting a bspp to jic straight and then a jic male to jic female swivel 90 that would be about 7 dollars. Not sure the long fitting you posted about would be tall enough even to clear would it?

I was trying to find something local (w/o a lot of effort).

I'm unable to find a fixed BSP male to JIC female, but, this combo achieves the same thing:
9021 | BSPP x Female SAE 37° Flare (JIC) Swivel (item # 9021-06-06)

2500-06-06 | 3/8" JIC Male x 3/8" JIC Male 90°

Key is how much height the swivel piece gives, whether it gets it up above the ~ 1 inch mark (of the other port's installed fittings).

Here's that $36 long 90 (no mention of dimensions- would be a gamble):

9059L | SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x BSPP Adjustable 90º Long Elbow

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yes those fittings would work just as well also. I looked at the link for that long fitting and also couldn't find dimensions.

 

[DieselBound]

Tractor was returned late yesterday (I wasn't at home). No word yet as to what was done. Forecast shows 1" of rain for today in which case that should be a pretty good test of whether the cab is in fact sealed up now.

Won't be able to get around to installing the cameras and monitor, as well as the hydraulic top link, for another week.

 

[DieselBound]

Can anyone suggest a suitable hose to use for mocking-up running hydraulic lines to the FEL (from rear remotes)?

Folks have suggested garden hose, but I'll be running 3/8" lines and I only see 3/8" soaker hose.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Can anyone suggest a suitable hose to use for mocking-up running hydraulic lines to the FEL (from rear remotes)?

Folks have suggested garden hose, but I'll be running 3/8" lines and I only see 3/8" soaker hose.

If you want, hit your home improvement store and purchase 3/8" vinyl hose. I used garden hose.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Do you have a air hose laying around?

 

[DieselBound]

Folks, I did a quick search on a local big box store's web site and didn't see any 3/8" garden hose (other than drip). I had some old crap air hose but I think I pitched all of it: my shop is a total disaster zone -new garage is being built- and I risk injury every time I go in there (and I'm not home much lately these days to really look).

One box store has 50' of 3/8" vinyl air hose for $15. This might be my best bet.

 

[DieselBound]

In the process of installing my cameras and monitor.

Can anyone tell me what it takes to remove these bolts:



Removed all the others except those. Can't get any of my sockets down in the recessed plastic!

Is this the channel that folks are referring to for running the cable from the monitor (back to the fuse box)?

 

[DieselBound]

OK, success in locating something to remove those recessed bolts: had a cheap-o screwdriver bit set that had some sockets and a 1/4" adapter for a socket wrench. :thumbsup:

 

[MinnesotaEric]

In the process of installing my cameras and monitor.

Can anyone tell me what it takes to remove these bolts:

View attachment 487923

Removed all the others except those. Can't get any of my sockets down in the recessed plastic!

Is this the channel that folks are referring to for running the cable from the monitor (back to the fuse box)?

View attachment 487924

1/4" 10MM socket with a six inch extension on my Panasonic drill driver set on its lowest setting.

Anyway, 10mm socket.

If your sockets are too fat, hit one with a grinder to shave it down.

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, yeah, got it!

Also wanted to note that I measured for hoses for my 3rd function, from rear remotes to FEL. Going to route on the LEFT side of the tractor/loader, mimicking the FEL hoses on the RIGHT side- the flex loop and I am also figuring in for a bulkhead connection at the loader attachment point. Being just on the generous side I get:

7' 9" from top rear remote (will be 90 degree facing/routing left) to the loader attachment point
10' 8" from the loader attachment point to about the middle of the torque tube (I may keep it shifted to the outboard side)

Probably can take off a couple of inches from each for the length of fittings.

 

[DieselBound]

Hydraulic stuff ordered. I'm knocking myself for not picking up some sleeve material: I might look to get it before I install things. The hose has a higher abrasion rating, so maybe that will be good enough.

So, when I was mucking about with installing my cameras I discovered that prying the cap top up required, well, PRYING! I'd removed all the nuts and was just looking to bump up the rear part of the cab. I e-mailed the dealer and asked if they RTV'd the cab top in order to rectify the leak. They DID! :thumbdown: So, now if I have to go to remove the top I'm facing battling with RTV.

 

[DieselBound]

Got the monitor installed and the cameras. Waiting to get an RCA barrel jack to make the video connection for the rear camera.

Front camera - notice the high tech mounting solution- electrical tape! It's off center a bit. When I determine what location is best for viewing my pallet fork work I'll make things more permanent.
View attachment 488105

Tried being fairly tidy with the wiring. Ran the front stuff through a piece of loom I had kicking around (and taped it up). I ran the wires/cables through the grommet that runs up under the radiator (though no loom through there). Wires are then just laying inside the battery box area and then out along where the hood closes and up and along the brush guard.



Rear camera was mounted under the rear lip of the cab top. It's currently dangling there. I wasn't sure if the angle would work, so no permanent mount yet. I'll likely tape it first to check.

Here's the monitor in action (front camera- crooked!):

View attachment 488108

I sifted through a ton of screws looking for four matching self-taping ones. Only ones I had were shiny, Phillips head that were, I figured, too big. Had to run some errands anyway so I stopped at one of the big box stores and bought, well, a big box of black, hex head self-taping screws: $5 for four screws, but, I'll be looking at this for a LONG time!

 

[DieselBound]

Not much happening on the tractor front. Attached the pallet forks and moved a pallet of wood up to the house. First use of the new camera/monitor set up; I didn't have a very good angle of view- need to work on, probably opt for increasing cable length and doing temporary camera mounts (use magnetic base).

Showed the wife why all the fuss with this camera stuff. Having her sit behind the wheel allowed her to "get it."

Tractor and Polaris are currently parked side by side and I thought I'd grab some pictures of them after noticing how much smaller the front profile of the tractor is with the bucket off (had the pallet forks on).

For some reason I thought I'd bought a bigger tractor.
View attachment 488445

Oh! Now I see it!


Does this Polaris make my rear look big? :laughing:
View attachment 488446