Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[retiredfarmer]

Ordered blades and hardware from Flailmaster on Monday, arrived today (Wed).

Interesting to read in the manual that the cotter pin side of the clevis faces away from the belt drive side of the mower based on rotation so the the recoiling of the blades will not beat up the cotter pins when the blades hit something.

Also interesting was replacing with 3 point connecting arms with chains so they float. I always wondered why some tractors had connecting arms that you could pull a pin to enable them to float float.

Thank you whirly for the belt size. That came in also.

 

[Xfaxman]

What model tractor do you have that the 3 point doesn't float?

Can you post pictures of your chain setup?

 

[retiredfarmer]

It is more that the one arm can float independent of the other so the mower can twist sort of independent of what the tractor rear wheels are doing.

Here is a picture of a pair on ebay.

 

[Xfaxman]

Ok, now it makes sense :thumbsup:.

 

[cscholz]

Hello Flail Mowers,

Amazingly, I think I've read about 75% of this thread (got to page 350 or so and then started skipping a bit). Wow - tons of great info here!!

I've recently purchased a Kubota MX5200HST and I'm in the market for a flail mower. I have about 20-25 acres of meadow to maintain, most of it is pretty hilly, though it's been maintained over the years - I don't see too many rocks walking around. The prior owner of this property used an M7040 with an Alamo SHD96. In hindsight, I probably should have bought the mower from him, but too late. I am new to the tractor and pretty much any real farm activity - but loving it. I'd like to mow the meadows 2-3 times/year, maybe a bit more often for some sections.

At this point, I'm considering these options: new Caroni TM1900BSC (73" cutting width), new Woodmaxx FM-78 (74" cutting width), or a local craigslist option for a used Alamo SHD88 (88" cutting width). The Alamo ad claims it was used at an airport since new and well maintained, has "HD grass and brush blades" - they look like Y blades in the pics. It's being sold by a guy that deals in used equipment - asking $2800 (already reduced some since earlier ads). I have not seen the Alamo first hand yet, but may go this weekend. He also has an SHD96, but it looks a bit more beat up (same price).

I'm pretty sure my tractor can handle the SHD88 and I like the idea of more width, slower pace. But, I also like the idea of a warranty.

The Caroni will be in stock in early April (~$2600 with shipping) and the Woodmaxx is out of stock - waiting to hear about availability on it (also $2600 with shipping).

My big debate is do I get serious about the used Alamo, or wait for either a better used deal or go for something new. Where I live, I won't be cutting until at least early May, after the mud season subsides.

Thanks for your help!
Carl

 

[whirly]

I'd go for the Used Alamo 88. It's just a tad bit wider than your tires and it's built to last until it has to mow the grass over you.

 

[retiredfarmer]

The Mott (Alamo) 72 Fine Cut I just bought is still straight with no bends or broken welds, rusty here and there. Best I can tell, all the bearings are original and sound. I believe the one I have is from the 1970's-80's was county owned and well maintained. New set of blades and hardware were just under $200. If you are comfortable with a wrench, parts are avail from Flailmaster. My vote is for the Alamo SHD88.

 

[def38]

The Mott (Alamo) 72 Fine Cut I just bought is still straight with no bends or broken welds, rusty here and there. Best I can tell, all the bearings are original and sound. I believe the one I have is from the 1970's-80's was county owned and well maintained. New set of blades and hardware were just under $200. If you are comfortable with a wrench, parts are avail from Flailmaster. My vote is for the Alamo SHD88.

Are ya gonna clean it up and paint it?

 

[retiredfarmer]

Are ya gonna clean it up and paint it?

Probably will. The paint that is on it is rather nice.

 

[def38]

Probably will. The paint that is on it is rather nice.

Add some pinstriping and custom graphics...you'll be the envy of all the locals.

My inherited Maytag Neptune washing machine (first residential front load washer) was about to be discarded. I got a new control circuit board for it and now I may do a custom pain job on the cabinet...maybe a metallic plumb with yellow accents.

As for my 2003 Massey Ferguson tractor, it is repainted in original factory colors and looks almost new. I am adding some custom LED lighting for nighttime mowing (Chinese flail mower with forged hammer flails).

Photos when you done with the repairs...

 

[CADplans]

Add some pinstriping and custom graphics...you'll be the envy of all the locals.

My inherited Maytag Neptune washing machine (first residential front load washer) was about to be discarded. I got a new control circuit board for it and now I may do a custom pain job on the cabinet...maybe a metallic plumb with yellow accents.

As for my 2003 Massey Ferguson tractor, it is repainted in original factory colors and looks almost new. I am adding some custom LED lighting for nighttime mowing (Chinese flail mower with forged hammer flails).

Photos when you done with the repairs...

For me,, factory original paint only please,,, :confused2:

My paint guy knows I am a stickler for factory paint,, and he insures me this is how this machine left the factory,,,

The only variation from factory is that this is base coat - clear coat,,,

:laughing:

 

[Fallon]

The Mott (Alamo) 72 Fine Cut I just bought is still straight with no bends or broken welds, rusty here and there. Best I can tell, all the bearings are original and sound. I believe the one I have is from the 1970's-80's was county owned and well maintained. New set of blades and hardware were just under $200. If you are comfortable with a wrench, parts are avail from Flailmaster. My vote is for the Alamo SHD88.

Ya, an Alamo is going to be a beefy industrial machine. Caroni or a Woodmaxx is a consumer unit, good ones, but still cheaper & lighter. A used machine is likely to need replacement bearings, seals & blades sooner, but frames, hoods & what not will last longer. Faded paint, possibly worn or stripped fasteners & the usual used machine issues.

 

[cscholz]

Ya, an Alamo is going to be a beefy industrial machine. Caroni or a Woodmaxx is a consumer unit, good ones, but still cheaper & lighter. A used machine is likely to need replacement bearings, seals & blades sooner, but frames, hoods & what not will last longer. Faded paint, possibly worn or stripped fasteners & the usual used machine issues.

Is there a way to tell the age of the Alamo given the serial number? And it appears there may be a couple of dents in the hood - seems like as long as they are pushing out they won't have any negative impact on the blade rotation. Is there any reason to be concerned about those kinds of dents?

I have no issue wrenching a bit to replace blades, bearings and/or seals. But I don't weld so I'd want to avoid anything requiring that kind of work.

BTW, am I correct in seeing that the Alamo SHD uses just 1 drive belt?

Carl

 

[retiredfarmer]

It is more that the one arm can float independent of the other so the mower can twist sort of independent of what the tractor rear wheels are doing.

Here is a picture of a pair on ebay.

A little modding to fit this tractor.

 

[def38]

And it appears there may be a couple of dents in the hood - seems like as long as they are pushing out they won't have any negative impact on the blade rotation. Is there any reason to be concerned about those kinds of dents?

If there are visible dents in the hood, that may mean that a large rock or log got caught in the machine while under power. I would carefully inspect the rotor shaft to insure that it was true and not bent.

 

[def38]

For me,, factory original paint only please,,, :confused2:

My paint guy knows I am a stickler for factory paint,, and he insures me this is how this machine left the factory,,,

The only variation from factory is that this is base coat - clear coat,,,

:laughing:

The muffler needs a bit of work!

 

[Fallon]

If there are visible dents in the hood, that may mean that a large rock or log got caught in the machine while under power. I would carefully inspect the rotor shaft to insure that it was true and not bent.

My old 917 hood looks like popcorn almost. Probably helps you figure out how I only paid $100 for it. But it worked just fine. I'll agree & disagree on the rotor. Ya, walk away from a bent rotor. I'll let you figure out how straight the mounting bars on the rotor are... There was a little vibration with a proper set of knives installed, but not enough for it to run fine for about 4 years. More noise & vibration came from that crack in the hook (no that's not bad pixies on the photo) I never bothered to weld up.

My new Peruzzo Brush Bull has a way thicker hood. I assume the Alamo would be similar while the Woodmaxx, Chinese & cheap Italians would be similar to the Ford's hood thickness. While lighter duty the Ford is still hanging in there after being well used for 20-30 years. A few dents wouldn't phase me at all. A lot wouldn't either if the price were right.

 

[wims8899]

Does anybody have a source or part number for new roller bearings on a John Deere 25A ?? Those suckers aren't cheap from John Deere or Flail Master. I saw some guys in this thread who used a New Holland part number for bearings that were the same but it looks like they don't make that part number anymore.

The bearings on mine are the three bolt design with I think the hex center.

I just picked up the mower and was able to free up the main drum fairly easily.

I didn't try too hard on the roller drum bc I figured they'd be cheap and easy to replace.

Maybe I'll just try a littler harder to free it up.

 

[retiredfarmer]

Looking at a Ford 917 Flail mower that is set up for fine cut. Are the blade drums the same for the 917's with the fine and coarse cuts? Can this be converted over to a coarse cut by just installing new coarse cut blades?
Thank you.

 

[D2Cat]

If you need a bearing of any type, for just about anything including a flail mower, might check with a local industrial bearing supply company. There you can often find products in stock, or they will have the next day, at prices considerably less than other places. Best to take the old bearing off and have it with you. They can mic and come up with what's required. Or have the original part number and use it to inquire.