Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,791  
Just acquired a Mott 72 flail mower. The dealer made a few repairs on it prior to purchase. It needed a new male PTO shaft and one pulley was a bit wobbly. They ended up welding it on but said it should outlast the unit.

I do have to replace a roller bearing on the guide roller. I found a thread on a similar unit here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...ott-flail.html

It looks pretty straightforward and I'm going to do both ends while its apart.

The flails are very worn and dull. I plan on replacing them. However, I have to mow a fallow field that has a fair number of small sumac and bushes. It seems like it might be better to use the old flails on this rough stuff first pass before replacing them. Thoughts on that approach?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,792  
Just acquired a Mott 72 flail mower. The dealer made a few repairs on it prior to purchase. It needed a new male PTO shaft and one pulley was a bit wobbly. They ended up welding it on but said it should outlast the unit. I do have to replace a roller bearing on the guide roller. I found a thread on a similar unit here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...ott-flail.html It looks pretty straightforward and I'm going to do both ends while its apart. The flails are very worn and dull. I plan on replacing them. However, I have to mow a fallow field that has a fair number of small sumac and bushes. It seems like it might be better to use the old flails on this rough stuff first pass before replacing them. Thoughts on that approach?

I like your approach.

I have a Mott 72" and the blades are dull, guide bearing on one side is shot and the body is rusted.

I put a new belt in it and it works fantastic as is where is used it. What's your overall intent with the machine ? I forget the price of the new bearing but I think it's more than the value of my machine, that's why I didn't buy one. I actually see a few used ones around my area for sale daily cheap and so/so condition. I thought about picking one up to have one great Mott but since I have other flails and am currently looking for an 8' it's not worth it to me.

I did try sharpening the blades which is a total time consumer on this model. If it was the heavy duty or cotter pin set up it would be great but bolts on each they can stay dull.

Super machine, cuts fantastic ..... Soooo I'd try yours as is ... Long winded sorry.... Unless your cutting a super lawn.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,793  
Unless you are finish mowing, blade sharpness isn't critical. I'd not only do the first mowing with the old blades but would also keep using them until you were unhappy with the cut. I never sharpen my blades and they seem to cut just fine in fields for years. Treat flail blades like bush hog blades unless you are after a finish cut.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,794  
Unless you are finish mowing, blade sharpness isn't critical. I'd not only do the first mowing with the old blades but would also keep using them until you were unhappy with the cut. I never sharpen my blades and they seem to cut just fine in fields for years. Treat flail blades like bush hog blades unless you are after a finish cut.

Ditto
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,795  
They use a heavy strap iron and simply bend it before doing a rough sharpening job.
the blades will be ok for ditch mowing but I would not want to use them on good sod EVER.
Their mower blade quality is poor.

If I have not done it already, I want to welcome you as the newest member of the "Flail Mower Nations".



Thanks for the welcome. The manufacture of these blades claim they are forged with an RC of 40 to 50 but mainly what I want to know is how sharp they should be.
attached two pictures, before and after.
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,796  
Thanks IslandTractor and whirly. That's what I needed to know. I thought they cut alright but my wife wasn't as happy with the cut, (to put it mildly)
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,797  
Unless you are finish mowing, blade sharpness isn't critical. I'd not only do the first mowing with the old blades but would also keep using them until you were unhappy with the cut. I never sharpen my blades and they seem to cut just fine in fields for years. Treat flail blades like bush hog blades unless you are after a finish cut.

Here are some pictures of the flails. Would you still use them as is, at least for the first cut? There are a few that are missing so I will definitely replace those.

IMG_1319[1].JPG

IMG_1322[1].JPG
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,798  
The idler pulley seems to be out of alignment with the other two. Is this normal? If not, the way to adjust it isn't obvious to me. Thanks for your help.

IMG_1323[1].JPG
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,799  
Looks as if the mount is bent, allowing the tensioner pulley to run sideways a bit.
Actually looking at it closer, the mount for the idler may be mounted wrong. Looks like the upper part may go on the outside of the bearing housing instead of being sandwiched in between.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,800  
Here are some pictures of the flails. Would you still use them as is, at least for the first cut? There are a few that are missing so I will definitely replace those. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=466051"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=466052"/>
Those are finish blades. Not generally used to knock down brush but if you go slow there's no harm trying.
 
 

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