Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[powerscol]

innrkid
You have plenty of HP and tractor weight. You could check your tire width to be sure the unit will get as far as you need to the side to cut your edges. You may need to drive on the ditch bank to do so. With your HP you should be able to run the WoodMaxx ™ FM-88H. From what I know you have chosen wisely. I believe a hammer blade will do what you want, but others here like Leonz can advise better than I.

An alternative if needed. is to get a swing arm unit to reach further to the side, Source - http://www.maschio.com/catalog/category/trincia/en_US . I have a Giraffetta 160SE with my Bobcat CT235, It is at the upper limit of my tractors capability, but I have no issues running it - just need to go slow. The Giraffa series would work for you as well as others if you do not need the swing arm. Here again you need to be sure the pivot point clears the outside of your tire.

Hope this helps

BTW Iowa Farm Equipment is a source with good pricing, but you may have others close to you through you agg dealers.

 

[innrkid]

innrkid
You have plenty of HP and tractor weight. You could check your tire width to be sure the unit will get as far as you need to the side to cut your edges. You may need to drive on the ditch bank to do so. With your HP you should be able to run the WoodMaxx ™ FM-88H. From what I know you have chosen wisely. I believe a hammer blade will do what you want, but others here like Leonz can advise better than I.

An alternative if needed. is to get a swing arm unit to reach further to the side, Source - http://www.maschio.com/catalog/category/trincia/en_US . I have a Giraffetta 160SE with my Bobcat CT235, It is at the upper limit of my tractors capability, but I have no issues running it - just need to go slow. The Giraffa series would work for you as well as others if you do not need the swing arm. Here again you need to be sure the pivot point clears the outside of your tire.

Hope this helps

BTW Iowa Farm Equipment is a source with good pricing, but you may have others close to you through you agg dealers.

I saw your earlier post and investigated the Maschio. Dang it! I thought I was close to deciding until I saw that. Very impressed with the video of the operator taking out rotted stumps and sizable limbs. I could see a need for both on my place.
One thing I am noting on the Woodmax is the Fm 88 and the FM 88H. I am assuming H stands for Hydro although I'm still not clear on the value. More research and the I am diving deeper on Maschio...and Caroni.
Thanks for the detailed response and shared insight.

 

[powerscol]

I saw your earlier post and investigated the Maschio. Dang it! I thought I was close to deciding until I saw that. Very impressed with the video of the operator taking out rotted stumps and sizable limbs. I could see a need for both on my place.
One thing I am noting on the Woodmax is the Fm 88 and the FM 88H. I am assuming H stands for Hydro although I'm still not clear on the value. More research and the I am diving deeper on Maschio...and Caroni.
Thanks for the detailed response and shared insight.

The H model is the one that can offset. Otherwise its position is fixed. The offset is run hydraulically.
BTW how many rear remotes did you get on your new tractor. You should get as many as is offered, but at least two.

 

[innrkid]

The H model is the one that can offset. Otherwise its position is fixed. The offset is run hydraulically.
BTW how many rear remotes did you get on your new tractor. You should get as many as is offered, but at least two.

I initially specified one and moved to two.

 

[powerscol]

I initially specified one and moved to two.

Soon you will need to get with Brian at Fitritehydraulics and add more

 

[innrkid]

Soon you will need to get with Brian at Fitritehydraulics and add more

My tractor is not delivered yet and it is a dealer installed option. I can still add....

 

[Catman8]

We had a break in the weather so I got a chance to weigh my Bush Hog/Ford new Holland flail mower, it weighed 860 lbs. I was told the belt adjustment should be between 3/8" to 1/2" deflection on the belt, does that sound correct. This is a single double belt and has no spring on the adjustment only a tension rod, You guys said that the belt slipping is what protects your PTO and since I'm trying to use such a big flail on a smaller tractor with only 24 PTO hp should I keep the belt adjustment at 1/2" or more to compensate for the smaller PTO and allow for easier slippage to protect the PTO.

 

[Fallon]

I kept mine tight on my L3200 (25 PTO HP). Never had a problem including the time I mowed my well head. It ended poorly for my well head & to a lesser segree my rotor. The mounting bracket on the rotor was a little bent, but continues to be serviceable and no worse than some of the other rotor dings on there. Its not the smoothest running implement (even after new rotor bearings a year or so later), but i paid $100 for it & now have about $700 into it total. Had to replace a couple knives & clevis especially in addition to the cap on the well.

 

[powerscol]

My tractor is not delivered yet and it is a dealer installed option. I can still add....

Well lets put it this way. Bobcat only offered two remotes. With my Maschio swing arm mower I need two sets, which means I cant use my hydraulic top link - (best thing I added yet). So I actually need 3 sets. If I get the rear blade I want it requires 3 sets of remotes (3 way axis), so if I want my top link too I need 4 sets. Brian has a neat valve package that can do that with a push button handle to activate the other remotes. Just need to save up and find room.

Right now is probably the best time to add depending on what you plan to run in the future. If they offer a quad set up I would get it now. help in resale later too.

 

[ericm979]

Is top 'n tilt useful for a flail mower? Would float be of use?

 

[innrkid]

Well lets put it this way. Bobcat only offered two remotes. With my Maschio swing arm mower I need two sets, which means I cant use my hydraulic top link - (best thing I added yet). So I actually need 3 sets. If I get the rear blade I want it requires 3 sets of remotes (3 way axis), so if I want my top link too I need 4 sets. Brian has a neat valve package that can do that with a push button handle to activate the other remotes. Just need to save up and find room.

Right now is probably the best time to add depending on what you plan to run in the future. If they offer a quad set up I would get it now. help in resale later too.

Thanks. Once again, great information. Glad to hear you enjoy the hydraulic top link. I did the same thing! Guess I better max out the rears. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Milo]

The H model is the one that can offset. Otherwise its position is fixed. The offset is run hydraulically.
BTW how many rear remotes did you get on your new tractor. You should get as many as is offered, but at least two.

I was just considering a single remote for the ability to shift the flail left and right, what advantage do multiple rear remotes offer with a flail?

 

[IslandTractor]

Is top 'n tilt useful for a flail mower? Would float be of use?

I have hydraulic top n tilt but don't consider it that necessary for using a flail. The top link needs to be set so the rotor is in a good position when the rear roller is on the ground but after that there is no reason to touch it. That said, it is possible to tweak cutting height a bit but playing with the topping lift but it is the least important of adjustments.

Float is not an issue either as one generally lowers the 3PT until most of the weight is on the rear roller and leaves it there. The 3PT naturally floats up. If the 3PT is set low then there is room to drop further if the roller dips.

 

[innrkid]

I was just considering a single remote for the ability to shift the flail left and right, what advantage do multiple rear remotes offer with a flail?

Iowa Farm Equipment -- Maschio GIRAFETTA Series Ditch Bank Flail Mower

In case this is in the consideration set when choosing a flail.

 

[Milo]

I see. One function would allow side shift, two functions could add tilt.

 

[powerscol]

I was just considering a single remote for the ability to shift the flail left and right, what advantage do multiple rear remotes offer with a flail?

For a standard 3pt flail you don't need any unless you want a hydraulic top link to better tilt the mower fore/aft when in use. For a side shifting flail (one that can just shift sideways) you need one rear remote A-B pair. Now for my Maschio Giraffetta 160SE swing arm verge or ditch bank mower, you need two set of rear remotes (A-B and C-D). One set swings the unit sideways the other tilts the head for the roadside bank. If I had a third set I could use my hydraulic top link to raise the mower higher and adjust its pitch easier.

It used to be for me I thought I did not need any at first. I bought my new tractor without, even though they had a screaming deal at the dealer for them. Then I added one and quickly added the second as I found equipment I wanted to run and make my life easier using hydraulics. Its like potato chips - one or two is not enough. I'm not a young guy any more and the hydraulic top link is a real pain and time saver. Now if you want top and tilt on your 3 point, you need 2 set of remotes - the second is for the side arm control where I how have a crank handle. You can use a top and tilt to angle a rear blade by lowering or raising one lower 3pt arm. Most of the time we all have both lower arms the same height to keep things level.

When I first came to TBN and started learning and went through the hydraulics forum and saw the power beyond set ups some folks had with a dozen remotes :shocked: (slight extension of truth) I could not understand the need. Now I know that having the extra set, or one set with float, how important they can be to do work and make things easier

The best example I can use is my IH 1300 sickle mower that I added a hydraulic bar lift too. The 9' cutting bar just got impossible for me to lift. So one set got the bar to lift. I was still using my manual top link to adjust the bar pitch when cutting. Depending on the hay I was cutting I had to adjust the pitch up or down several times to get the cutting right. This got to be a real pain and I about gave up using the mower. Then I got the hydraulic top link from Brian and used my second set. All I can say is WOW - the mower worked well again as I could tweak the top link (adjusting the cutter bar pitch) on the fly to solve any cutting issue. The same for my drum mower - I can adjust the pitch on the fly to get the best cut.

I hope this helps folks
Keith

 

[Milo]

Very helpful powerscol. I think you convinced me to go with 2 rear remotes now, just in case.

 

[powerscol]

I love to spend other folks money :cool2:....the Lord only know how much I have spent based on good advice other have given me here. You will find good use for them. If you can, one set should have a float feature. If not don't worry. I use mine on my sickle mower bar to let it follow the ground better. Hope this helps. In float the pressure on both lines to the cylinder is removed so it can move in and out freely. Some loaders have this feature to let the bucked follow the ground.

 

[Fallon]

Is top 'n tilt useful for a flail mower? Would float be of use?

I LOVE my TnT for mowing. Well the toplink at least, think the only sidelink usage has been countering sidelink drift.

With my rotary I could pick the tail up higher for roading, loading & maintenance, or pick it up just enough to hang it over a ditch I couldn't drive or back over. I still left the flex link on as float was slow, but it gave me more range.

I used my new L4060 & my new flail once so far. I was sorely missing the back ordered toplink. I use to just leave the toplink in float & set height by the 3pt (my ancient 917 had the roller adjustment welded solid years ago before I got it for some reason). The floating toplink let me adjust the cut height as needed on the fly. My winter flail cut ended up being noticeably to short as lifting the 3pt would pull the roller off the ground. It was to cold & dark to get out of the cab to fiddle with the manual toplink.

A Quick Hitch & TnT means not having to get out of your seat to hitch up unless you need to hook up a PTO or hydraulics too. Doesn't matter if the impliment is sitting twisted or crooked. Adjust your TnT & sneak up on it once or twice & you can almost always grab your implement from the seat.

 

[Milo]

I love to spend other folks money :cool2:...If you can, one set should have a float feature.....

LOL. Float noted, thanks.