Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,061  
Sold my 68" Value Leader today, and have been working on selling my Ford Golden Jubilee also so I can go bigger on both... There's a 91" New Holland 918H an hour and a half away, I may end up with that just have to go look at it.. :thumbsup:
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,062  
Well lets put it this way. Bobcat only offered two remotes. With my Maschio swing arm mower I need two sets, which means I cant use my hydraulic top link - (best thing I added yet). So I actually need 3 sets. If I get the rear blade I want it requires 3 sets of remotes (3 way axis), so if I want my top link too I need 4 sets. Brian has a neat valve package that can do that with a push button handle to activate the other remotes. Just need to save up and find room.

Right now is probably the best time to add depending on what you plan to run in the future. If they offer a quad set up I would get it now. help in resale later too.

Okay. Maxed out the rear hydraulics so my options are open. Thanks for the advice.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,066  
Don't forget to get a couple of blind loops with appropriate double male quick connects so you can avoid damaging your hydraulic system by accidentally opening control valves to deadheaded ports. I always have one set of remotes hooked up to my topping lift and the other is sometimes in use and sometimes not. When it isn't hooked up to the backhoe I put a blind loop into the ports. I find that it is easy to forget which position is on or off on the remote levers and also that the levers can be accidentally activated. Better safe than very sorry. Probably costs only $20 for a short piece of 1/4" with adapters and necessary fittings. Cheap insurance.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,067  
Don't forget to get a couple of blind loops with appropriate double male quick connects so you can avoid damaging your hydraulic system by accidentally opening control valves to deadheaded ports. I always have one set of remotes hooked up to my topping lift and the other is sometimes in use and sometimes not. When it isn't hooked up to the backhoe I put a blind loop into the ports. I find that it is easy to forget which position is on or off on the remote levers and also that the levers can be accidentally activated. Better safe than very sorry. Probably costs only $20 for a short piece of 1/4" with adapters and necessary fittings. Cheap insurance.

I am going to admit ignorance right off the bat. Do I understand this right that you are suggesting plugging in a hose on each end of the set not in use? Is that what you mean by blind loop?

It's amazing to me the things I don't consider....
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,068  
I am going to admit ignorance right off the bat. Do I understand this right that you are suggesting plugging in a hose on each end of the set not in use? Is that what you mean by blind loop?

It's amazing to me the things I don't consider....

Yes. I'll try to dig out a photo. Simple though. About 12" of 1/4 hose with SAE fittings and then adapters to get up to 1/2" quick connects on each end necessary to plug into the rear remote pairs when not hooked up to any implement. That way, if you forget and leave the remote lever in the on position or accidentally move the lever to on, the fluid has a place to go and doesn't "dead head". Dead heading a hydraulic circuit is bad for the pump and can cause very expensive damage that will not be covered under warranty.

Edit: photos show on the left most set of rear remotes there is a blind loop. The other rear remote is hooked up to the topping lift. When I use my backhoe I remove the blind loop and as soon as I disconnect the backhoe I reattach it. Of note, I have often forgotten to shut off the remote valve after disconnecting the backhoe. Lots of other things to be thinking about during that operation and as shutting off the valve involves moving from the back of the tractor to the operator station it sometimes gets forgotten. With the blind loop in place it doesn't matter at all.
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,069  
I am going to admit ignorance right off the bat. Do I understand this right that you are suggesting plugging in a hose on each end of the set not in use? Is that what you mean by blind loop?

It's amazing to me the things I don't consider....

I have never had a need for the loops. If I hit the wrong lever I quickly hear the dead head and stop. Never a problem. Might be a good question for the dealer. Having said that I had seen commercial hard line U-loops made just for this purpose. I would call your dealer first.

On my tractor the other day I found out is if I have the D circuit in float using an implement, the 3 pt will not work - going on 7 years and still learning. When do you get delivery?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,070  
Yes. I'll try to dig out a photo. Simple though. About 12" of 1/4 hose with SAE fittings and then adapters to get up to 1/2" quick connects on each end necessary to plug into the rear remote pairs when not hooked up to any implement. That way, if you forget and leave the remote lever in the on position or accidentally move the lever to on, the fluid has a place to go and doesn't "dead head". Dead heading a hydraulic circuit is bad for the pump and can cause very expensive damage that will not be covered under warranty.

Edit: photos show on the left most set of rear remotes there is a blind loop. The other rear remote is hooked up to the topping lift. When I use my backhoe I remove the blind loop and as soon as I disconnect the backhoe I reattach it. Of note, I have often forgotten to shut off the remote valve after disconnecting the backhoe. Lots of other things to be thinking about during that operation and as shutting off the valve involves moving from the back of the tractor to the operator station it sometimes gets forgotten. With the blind loop in place it doesn't matter at all.

That is what I thought. Thanks for the detail and pictures.

I have never had a need for the loops. If I hit the wrong lever I quickly hear the dead head and stop. Never a problem. Might be a good question for the dealer. Having said that I had seen commercial hard line U-loops made just for this purpose. I would call your dealer first.

On my tractor the other day I found out is if I have the D circuit in float using an implement, the 3 pt will not work - going on 7 years and still learning. When do you get delivery?

This is what I assumed. I would hear it if I made a mistake, however, my hearing isn't what it used to be either. Too many guns, loud music and Harleys.
I will talk with dealer. My tractor is awaiting loading. (current Kubota status) I would have it already had I not been as particular as I am and refused first tractor presented! i still need to decide on a flail mower!
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,071  
I'm specing out a new tractor and want to use a flail mower in the places I've already cleared with a rotary. Would 29 pto hp be enough to drive a Woodmaxx 62" with hammer flails? How about a 78"?
I'd be mowing grass and small shrubs 1" and less. Some rocks (sandstone). Basically whatever survived initial clearing with the rotary.
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,072  
I'm specing out a new tractor and want to use a flail mower in the places I've already cleared with a rotary. Would 29 pto hp be enough to drive a Woodmaxx 62" with hammer flails? How about a 78"?
I'd be mowing grass and small shrubs 1" and less. Some rocks (sandstone). Basically whatever survived the rotary.

Yes, 29hp at PTO would be adequate for either size. If you run the larger mower in lush long grass you will likely need to slow down or take partial cuts but the tractor will run it. My DK40se with ?34hp at PTO runs a 75" flail in waist high grasses at less than full PTO speed.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,073  
I'm specing out a new tractor and want to use a flail mower in the places I've already cleared with a rotary. Would 29 pto hp be enough to drive a Woodmaxx 62" with hammer flails? How about a 78"?
I'd be mowing grass and small shrubs 1" and less. Some rocks (sandstone). Basically whatever survived initial clearing with the rotary.
My L3200hst 32hp, 25pto ran a 7' Ford 917 fine as long as I went slow. Side slicers, not duck foot hammers. Not sure how much knife type affects things, at least with respect to power requirements.

I'm a fan of going wide & going slow if you can deal with the lesser maneuverability of a bigger implement.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,074  
Thanks.

Our land is steep with a number of small less steep parts that I have cleared or will clear in the future. I'm thinking manuverability is more important than the number of acres per hour that I can mow.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,075  
Thanks.

Our land is steep with a number of small less steep parts that I have cleared or will clear in the future. I'm thinking manueverability is more important than the number of acres per hour that I can mow.

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If you have that type of terrain your going to need ag tires and a tractor with adjustable rear tires that can be adjusted outward for the widest stance for stability, traction and grip not R4's.

If you have granite coming up from frost heave you need to invest in landscape rake that can be mounted up front or flagging each boulder and digging it out as they will raise **** with the flail mower rotor knife hangers if the granite is close enough to the surface that it will shatter and possibly break knife mounting station and then you are stuck as the flail mower rotor will be out of balance and a new knife mounting station will have to be welded back on the rotor.

about your tires:
You will need to have them loaded with liquid ballast and also preferably to have suitcase weights in front to maintain stability and the center of gravity which is the center line through the center of the engine cradle or the mating surface of oil pan and engine block.

You have to keep in mind that your mules four tires are going to be contacting less than a square foot of ground in total
When working-YES less than a square foot of tread!!!! You should invest in a mechanical tilt meter or a digital one.
Dont overthink it; your car has less than 6 inches of tread contacting a road BTW.

When mowing steep areas above fifteen degrees you should plan on backing up and then driving down the area to be mowed as you can mow as you climb and then make a second pass on the same area as you descend with the tractor.

If you invest in the value leader flail mower you need ot plan on purchasing a wet well grinder from Micro Mark for $99.00 plus tax and shipping as you will need to sharpen the cast hammers several times during the mowing season and a wet well grinder will not destroy the temper of the hammer knife if they have been heat treated.

For the money invested a Caroni Flail Mower with a B flail mower Rotor may be a better choice BUT keep in mind that since Vrisimo is in California and you can buy parts from a local dealer a Vrisimo orchard and Vineyard flail shredder will be more cost effective in the long run as the side slicer knives are less costly to buy per unit and easier to wet grind to a sharp edge and you can maintain a 2 inch mowing height in one pass.

The other thing to keep in mind is the flail hammer knives will not let you shred the brush in a second pass to shred the brush and grass finer.

If you invest in a smaller mule such as the Kubota B series or the JD series 2 mules with loaded R-2 ag or turf tires and suitcase weights and the Vrisimo Orchard and Vineyard Shredder Flail Mower or the Caroni with the B flail mower rotor you will have a more useable mower as you can and will be able to mow brush and good sod grass without changing anything.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,076  
I need some advice here... I have a Massey Ferguson 1529 which has 23.2hp at the PTO. I need a mower option for my property in Western NC. The property is hilly in one section, but overall pretty flat... and I will mow probably 2.5 acres. I kind of like the Caroni TM1900, but I am concerned that the PTO power may not be high enough. The 3pt will have plenty of lift, and I think the tractor probably weighs about 4000lbs with the loader and filled rears.

Does anyone use a 6 ft. flail behind a tractor similar to mine?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,077  
I need some advice here... I have a Massey Ferguson 1529 which has 23.2hp at the PTO. I need a mower option for my property in Western NC. The property is hilly in one section, but overall pretty flat... and I will mow probably 2.5 acres. I kind of like the Caroni TM1900, but I am concerned that the PTO power may not be high enough. The 3pt will have plenty of lift, and I think the tractor probably weighs about 4000lbs with the loader and filled rears.

Does anyone use a 6 ft. flail behind a tractor similar to mine?

My tractor has more power but I wouldn't hesitate to run a Caroni TM1900 with 23 hp at PTO. When the grass is tall or very lush you may need to slow down a bit but your tractor will handle that mower.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,078  
I need some advice here... I have a Massey Ferguson 1529 which has 23.2hp at the PTO. I need a mower option for my property in Western NC. The property is hilly in one section, but overall pretty flat... and I will mow probably 2.5 acres. I kind of like the Caroni TM1900, but I am concerned that the PTO power may not be high enough. The 3pt will have plenty of lift, and I think the tractor probably weighs about 4000lbs with the loader and filled rears.

Does anyone use a 6 ft. flail behind a tractor similar to mine?

Read back a few pages. I ran a 7' flail behind my 25 HP PTO L3200 just fine. If you go big on low HP you just need to go slow, which is easier on you & your machine. 2 less HP would probably run the 7' 917 fine but slow. Narrower would be easier. And at 4k lbs it should have better 3pt lift than my L3200 which topped out at 3,500lbs with loader & loaded tires & handled the 7' just fine.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,079  
So, has anyone ever tried to pick up a 1,400 pound flail with a JD 4105??
(or similar sized tractor)

The 4105 is virtually identical to an 8N Ford, except the 3 point is rated at 2,200 pounds,,,

Will I be looking at the clouds, if I hook the JD 390 to the JD 4105?,,, :confused2:
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #4,080  
So, has anyone ever tried to pick up a 1,400 pound flail with a JD 4105?? (or similar sized tractor) The 4105 is virtually identical to an 8N Ford, except the 3 point is rated at 2,200 pounds,,, Will I be looking at the clouds, if I hook the JD 390 to the JD 4105?,,, :confused2:

JD website says the 390 is 1093lbs for the 8'3" overall width unit. For something 8n sized you may want to consider some ballast on the front. If you come up on a slope you may very well be looking at the sky.
 
 

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