Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Greenland South]

Any one familiar with these flails?

http://www.value-leader.com/71-flail-mulcher-ag180/

 

[sodamo]

Not the munchers, but am familiar with the 175 &195 heavy duty.
Had the 175 about 5 years, caught badly on a root one day racking it. Wife got a bit annoyed that cut was a tad uneven, took 2 hours to sell on CL and price paid a good portion of the 195 I got as a replacement this spring. Wouldn't hesitate to get another. The company is great to deal with.

http://www.value-leader.com/heavy-duty-1/

 

[powerscol]

Does anyone have one of their FHM ditch bank models. Would be more useful for me. but wondering about durability. Also how does it cut on flat ground?

 

[Zerker]

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Yes take the entire pulley off Zerker. You may end up replacing everything down to the bushing for the tensioner arm too anyway as it sounds like the whole arm and snubber pulley and bushing/bearing are shot.

Thanks for your responses to my situation LeonZ. I'm a bit late responding here, but i ended up figuring out my problem and all it cost me was some new bolts, nuts and lock washers. I took off the entire guard to the flail mower when i saw the tensioner bolt was a little bent. I took that off, cleaned everything up and put on a new belt (that was a pain). Upon putting all new bolts on and tightening the tensioner pulley down i saw the pulley do the same thing it was doing. I noticed that while tightening the nut that my guard and housing to the flail mower did not line up properly. The housing might be bent, i'm not sure. So I put a few washers between the housing of the mower and the guard to keep it straight. That did the trick and now the pulley is lined up perfectly. I mowed about 10 acres with the mower and the new belt. Everything worked great. The grass was very thick in some spots and very tall all the way around. It took me about 6 hours to do it all with a few breaks in between. I have no doubt that the next time i mow it will only take me half that time as i'll be able to fly through it. I absolutely love flail mowers and i'm already looking around to find a cheap one that I can rebuild over winter and have as a backup or it will give me an excuse to buy another tractor!

Which leads me to the next problem i want to solve. I own a truck, but i dont own a trailer. Is there anything out there that will help me load a flail mower or other heavy attachments into the bed of my truck? I dont want to have to rent a trailer when i do buy another flail. I saw a lift that slides into the hitch of the truck but it could only lift 300 pounds. I may have to just build something and put a hand crane on it that my truck could back under?

 

[whirly]

I've always used the FEL to move heavy stuff in and out of the pickup bed. I had chain hooks welded on the bucket and they work just fine with both chains and nylon slings. Of course this doesn't address getting those things out at the other end of your trip.

 

[Zerker]

I've always used the FEL to move heavy stuff in and out of the pickup bed. I had chain hooks welded on the bucket and they work just fine with both chains and nylon slings. Of course this doesn't address getting those things out at the other end of your trip.

I dont have a FEL on my tractor either. First tractor and I decided I didnt need an FEL to save some money. If I had to do it over again I probably would have found a tractor with one. But I think I did get a pretty good deal on the setup I purchased.

 

[Xfaxman]

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Which leads me to the next problem i want to solve. I own a truck, but i dont own a trailer. Is there anything out there that will help me load a flail mower or other heavy attachments into the bed of my truck? I dont want to have to rent a trailer when i do buy another flail. I saw a lift that slides into the hitch of the truck but it could only lift 300 pounds. I may have to just build something and put a hand crane on it that my truck could back under?

I have used a come along hooked to the top of the headache rack and plywood for heavy stuff to slide up into the bed of my truck.

You might check out a ladder rack also:

And add a beam down the middle, like this:

 

[Zerker]

I have used a come along hooked to the top of the headache rack and plywood for heavy stuff to slide up into the bed of my truck.

You might check out a ladder rack also:

View attachment 475395


View attachment 475396


And add a beam down the middle, like this:

View attachment 475398

Thats not a bad idea. What I had in mind was something like this

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356724_200356724

Not sure how easy it would be to assemble/disassemble. Also have to add a chain hoist which would be another 60 bucks or so. It would add up to be a bit pricey, but it may be worth it in the long run.

 

[Greenland South]

I pulled the pin and bought a Sicma TE 180 from a local dealer. Should be arriving next week. I AM EXCITED.

 

[kco]

Any one familiar with these flails?

http://www.value-leader.com/71-flail-mulcher-ag180/

I wish I had read this thread a few days ago, Greenland South. I just bought an AG180. Price for the mower in Kelowna is $4,200 Cdn., including PTO shaft with clutch, 4 spare belts, 4 spare knives (it has 16 total), top link, mounting pins, and hydraulic connectors for the side shift. The seller imports them from China and sells many to orchards in this area. He also sells Foton tractors. He has a large stock of parts for the mowers. As for the tractors, he said he only sells standard transmission models because any tractor outfit should be able to repair them. He is a retired chief pilot for a large helicopter firm and has lived in this area all his life.

Still, I was concerned about parts for the mower since it is a 1-man operation. However, I researched the AG-180 and found they are sold in several countries besides the Value-leader firm in the US. I even found an Estonia operator's manual(actually, the ONLY operator's manual) and lots of parts manuals.

The Value Leader list price is $4,300 US and there would be shipping to Canada plus duties, so the local $4,200 Cdn seems like a good deal for Canada.

I see you already bought a Sicma and I am sure it will be great. Had I not found what I think is a good option locally, I was considering Value Leader or Sicma.

So....the reason I came to this thread....

I have followed it for years and finally took the plunge. My mowing is diverse. I have a large lawn and pasture with lots of obstacles; winding, steep, rocky walking trails, and sharp ditch banks on the driveway that I tried to trim with the string trimmer one or twice a year when they got very ragged. I have a 5' finishing mower and a 4' (which is too small) rotary mower. I have just had the flail for two weeks and have mowed everything, plus some places I could not mow before. I could not be more impressed. The flail has handled everything and more; and it does the rough areas in 1/2 to 1/3 the time of my rotary mower. Something that convinced me to go to the flail is this video from Implements Direct in New Zealand:

Flail mower Demo From Implements Direct - YouTube

I think the mower is similar to Value-Leader (i.e. AG mower) or the Sicma (can't remember which).

The video certainly shows the flail's versatility. It also shows mulching brush piles, so I had to try that out. I cut three dead firs and, rather than pile limbs on a burn pile, I left them on the ground and mowed them with the mower when I did the paths. It works great and is better for the forest.

Here's the only photo I have so far. I took it today to show my dealer how I adapted the category 2 to my DK35's category 1.



Anyhow, thanks to everyone for this thread. You have another flail fan(atic)

Greenland South, you're gonna like that mower!

 

[Jack Yuan]

Any one familiar with these flails?

http://www.value-leader.com/71-flail-mulcher-ag180/

Hi, Here are some more information about this flail mower, we called it as AG or BCS mower here in China.
This model used to be the biggest flail mower which we produced, its rotor pipe is 5" and 0.32" thickness, its roller pipe is 6" and 0.32 thickness. It used to be with 2.7 lbs casting steel hammer, or 1.76 lbs forging steel hammer. And 0.25" thickness body panel, 0.32" thickness side body panel.

It is heavy duty and can be used on Cat 2 or 1 tractor, you need to check your tractor weight and horse power to choose correct one.

 

[Jack Yuan]

Can you take some photos of its rotor shaft? Especially the balance weight on the rotor shaft, and how much weight totally do you estimate they are? I would like to see its production finishing. And did it vibrate when working? Thank you in advance.

 

[kco]

Hi, Here are some more information about this flail mower, we called it as AG or BCS mower here in China.
This model used to be the biggest flail mower which we produced, its rotor pipe is 5" and 0.32" thickness, its roller pipe is 6" and 0.32 thickness. It used to be with 2.7 lbs casting steel hammer, or 1.76 lbs forging steel hammer. And 0.25" thickness body panel, 0.32" thickness side body panel.

It is heavy duty and can be used on Cat 2 or 1 tractor, you need to check your tractor weight and horse power to choose correct one.

Thanks Jack. I weight one of the bare hammers without the bolt and it is 36 ounces or 2.25 lbs. I don't know what the bolt and nut add to that.

They are substantial mowers. I was worried my DK35SE could not handle it but it has no problem. It helps that the DK35SE has the same basic construction as the higher horsepower models. My cutting conditions from a volume/density standpoint is not that demanding and the tractor has no problem running the mower.

One other thing I like about the mower, which is perhaps common to all flail mowers?, is the over-running clutch(i.e. not the PTO shaft clutch). The rotor free-wheels when the PTO is shut off and it takes some time to wind-down. The first time it surprised me because I had turned off the PTO and quite sometime later I heard all the clanking from the fails finally falling back onto the rotor shaft.

 

[kco]

Can you take some photos of its rotor shaft? Especially the balance weight on the rotor shaft, and how much weight totally do you estimate they are? I would like to see its production finishing. And did it vibrate when working? Thank you in advance.

Just read this post that came while I was writing my previous post. I don't have other photos now, especially of the rotor shaft but could take some another day when it is on the tractor. It is very well balanced and does not vibrate at all while working. The other day it did vibrate which cleared almost right away. Then I realized I had shaved off a sharp edge of a ditch while mowing on a side incline. A couple of hammers had a good load of dense mud. It cleared up right away even though not all the mud had dropped off. I got that off today because it had dried out.

As far as I can see the mower is the same as Value-Leader mower.

 

[Jack Yuan]

Thanks Jack. I weight one of the bare hammers without the bolt and it is 40 ounces or 2.25 lbs. I don't know what the bolt and nut add to that.

They are substantial mowers. I was worried my DK35SE could not handle it but it has no problem. It helps that the DK35SE has the same basic construction as the higher horsepower models. My cutting conditions from a volume/density standpoint is not that demanding and the tractor has no problem running the mower.

One other thing I like about the mower, which is perhaps common to all flail mowers?, is the over-running clutch(i.e. not the PTO shaft clutch). The rotor free-wheels when the PTO is shut off and it takes some time to wind-down. The first time it surprised me because I had turned off the PTO and quite sometime later I heard all the clanking from the fails finally falling back onto the rotor shaft.

Hi Kco,

I had this hammer, its standard weight is 1200gr/2.7lbs according to its design, but because of Chinese poor casting technology, the casting hammer is with too big weight difference. You can check more hammers on your mower, they looks same, but with quite different weight. Then this will need more weight balance on rotor shaft. So now we almost give up casting hammer. Only choose forging steel hammer. by the way, I m still thinking about higher standard forging steel hammer to control the hammer weight difference. Often check with your mower's rotor shaft, especially the weight balance block, I already had some report from my customers that their balance weight block lost after several years working.

About the gear box, we called it "free wheel gear box", "free wheel gear box" can protect your gear box and tractor, check if there is this "JCTT" logo on your gear box. JCTT used to OEM for Italy Comer gear box company, their small gear box quality is fine enough for small mowers. There are some mower factories here choose cheap version gear box, maybe other brand or produce by themselves, they are bad gear box. Be careful.

 

[Jack Yuan]

Check with your supplier if he has another bolt here to let air go out.


I change to use this bolt, after working, the oil in this tube will be hot, so it need somewhere to release the high pressure, otherwise the oil will leak from the end of this tube. This is the bolt which I m using now.
Or the bolt on your mower gear box top, a bolt can release pressure.

 

[kco]

Hi again, Jack.

The gear box is JCTT so perhaps that is not good, but then my DK35SE is only rated around 28 hp PTO. The four spare hammers I have look like they are cast and are 37.1, 36.8, 36.1 and 35.5 oz.

The top bolt on the mower is an allen key bolt and not vented. I will arrange to get a vented one similar to what you show.

I looked at the weight blocks. Both sides have about a 1" cube and the other side has an additional weight perhaps 1"x1"x1/2" directly in front of the larger one. I don't see others but will look when I have the mower on the tractor.

I see a couple of other differences from the Value-Leader. Mine does not have the small parking stand at the front, it has chains and a belt for a debris guard instead of metal plates, and it has a second guard over the lower part of the belt guard.

I will mention your comments to my dealer.

Cheers,

Ken

 

[Jack Yuan]

Hi Ken, JCTT gear box is good enough for you, you are not commercial using on your mower.

Often check those balance weight block, they may lost after several years.

By the way, my friend stock many products and parts in California Long Beach. We can talk details by PM.

 

[Jack Yuan]

And about the protection plate or chain on mower front, we see more mowers using plate than chain. My personally prefer plate than chain too. Have no ideas about comparison between them. Maybe Leonz know more.

About the extra protection guard over belt cover, it is used to protect belt cover.

 

[leonz]

And about the protection plate or chain on mower front, we see more mowers using plate than chain. My personally prefer plate than chain too. Have no ideas about comparison between them. Maybe Leonz know more.

About the extra protection guard over belt cover, it is used to protect belt cover.

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Hello Mr. Yuan,

The comparison for the hinged discharge guard plates is like night and day as chains will not stop all the material from being ejected out the front of a flail mower if such an incident were to occur.

They stopped offering them on rotary cutters here as far as I know because of the potential liability of impact damage to persons or property. offering them on flail mower is an automatic invitation to chain breakage failure and potentially having a piece of the chain hitting the operator, livestock, a pedestrian or property.

The European Unions pedestrian safety requirements for mowers mandate the hinged front plate guards be used to reduce the throwing of debris to a zero chance. They worry more about mowers injuring pedestrians than we do on this side of the Atlantic Ocean.