Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[IslandTractor]

Been a while since I posted the note below, but I just got around to doing a complete conversion to Flailmaster clevises and blades on my Caroni 1900. After busting a few more Caroni clevises mulching up some thicker/rougher stuff, I just wasn't willing to keep spending the ridiculous money on the Agri Supply Caroni parts.

Changes/observations from when I mocked up the parts earlier:

- Grinding is necessary, but relatively little - and even after doing so, the Flailmaster clevis is still more substantial than the Caroni/Agri Supply clevis. I initially didn't think it would be necessary, as the lone clevis I modified swung without interference. Turns out - it's extremely close, and the tabs on the drum are not very uniform. Some of the tabs are slightly narrower than others, so the clevises wouldn't swing completely free on all of them. Taking off 1/6" or so per side made the modified clevises swing freely on all the tabs.

- My neighbor who has years more experience than I with such things suggested another change. He looked at some of the legs that remained from the broken clevises and suggested relieving the blade holes with a conical grinder head. His point being, that the edges of the blade holes are quite sharp and the material is hardened, and he could see where the sharp corners had worked their way through the Caroni clevises. While the Flailmaster clevises are far beefier, I still relieved all the top edges of the blade holes to hopefully reduce this effect.

- Rather than using a bolt/nut to squeeze the Flailmaster clevises together to fit between the drum tabs, a good sized vice did the trick very quickly. Basically, just squeeze the ears together until you can just get a blade to slide over them.

The whole conversion took a couple hours. I've about 2 hours mowing since doing so, all seems fine - works as well as before. I've got a job next week that will have me mowing some heavier brush and will report back on how these hold up.

As an aside...I've got over 20 used original Caroni clevises that are certainly serviceable. If anyone is interested in them, I'll let them go far cheaper than new...

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/377666-lets-talk-flail-mowers-relievedblade-jpg"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/377667-lets-talk-flail-mowers-assembly-1-jpg"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/377668-lets-talk-flail-mowers-assembly-2-jpg"/>

Really a great contribution. I tried to grind down a larger clevis a few years ago but gave up as I thought the ears were too thin by the time it fit. I hadn't thought of compressing the ears a bit.

Of course the real solution is to find a source for metric clevises. I tried but found nothing when I last checked. Even the specialty metric fastener stores didn't carry them. I'm pretty sure these are not specially made clevises, just a metric size.

I've been using the Flailmaster blades for years. They are just as good as the Caroni versions. I lose blades because the clevises break. Never had to replace any blade because of wear.

 

[leonz]

I thought this would help our Caroni owners.


Wire Rope, Chains, Slings & Lifting Devices for Material Handling & Rigging


crosby metric chain shackles

 

[DaNag]

Of course the real solution is to find a source for metric clevises.

You know...even if somebody found them, at a reasonable price - I'd likely do the conversion anyway unless they were of a different design.

For me, those Caroni clevises are like butter...the minute I hit something substantial, there's a better than even chance they'll break. The difference between them and the Flailmaster replacements is really obvious. Not only in material strength and thickness, but in design.

The Caroni clevises are almost squared off at the bottom - they don't have the smooth and even radius like the Flailmaster units. To me, this is yet another reason they break so easily for me...the clevises always broke in these corners as that's where the blades will concentrate their impact when you hit something.

And, I've now experienced the additional toughness of this new setup. I just got back in from mowing a ditch I mow once yearly on my property. Somebody was thoughtful enough to toss a stack of lightweight metal fence posts in the ditch since last year, which were obstructed by 3' weeds. Upon backing down the ditch and hearing the racket upon impact, I lifted the mower as quickly as possible - but it was a direct hit, and the Caroni was chewing on them for several seconds before I lifted. One of the posts was torn in half. With the Caroni clevises - there's zero doubt I'd have snapped every shackle that passed over these, as I've busted them on far less. Anxiously lifting the Caroni and looking for the expected carnage this time - zero. Nada. Not a scratch or ding on any clevis. Every clevis still perfectly in shape, but there are several blades that will need a quick touch-up with the grinder.

I'm sold. The $65 spent on 28 clevises will get paid back in no time. Even using the cheaper Flailmaster blades, it's a $10 hit every time a Caroni clevis breaks ($7 clevis, 2 x $1.50 blades.)

Now...if I could just stop burning up belts.

 

[IslandTractor]

You know...even if somebody found them, at a reasonable price - I'd likely do the conversion anyway unless they were of a different design.

For me, those Caroni clevises are like butter...the minute I hit something substantial, there's a better than even chance they'll break. The difference between them and the Flailmaster replacements is really obvious. Not only in material strength and thickness, but in design.

The Caroni clevises are almost squared off at the bottom - they don't have the smooth and even radius like the Flailmaster units. To me, this is yet another reason they break so easily for me...the clevises always broke in these corners as that's where the blades will concentrate their impact when you hit something.

And, I've now experienced the additional toughness of this new setup. I just got back in from mowing a ditch I mow once yearly on my property. Somebody was thoughtful enough to toss a stack of lightweight metal fence posts in the ditch since last year, which were obstructed by 3' weeds. Upon backing down the ditch and hearing the racket upon impact, I lifted the mower as quickly as possible - but it was a direct hit, and the Caroni was chewing on them for several seconds before I lifted. One of the posts was torn in half. With the Caroni clevises - there's zero doubt I'd have snapped every shackle that passed over these, as I've busted them on far less. Anxiously lifting the Caroni and looking for the expected carnage this time - zero. Nada. Not a scratch or ding on any clevis. Every clevis still perfectly in shape, but there are several blades that will need a quick touch-up with the grinder.

I'm sold. The $65 spent on 28 clevises will get paid back in no time. Even using the cheaper Flailmaster blades, it's a $10 hit every time a Caroni clevis breaks ($7 clevis, 2 x $1.50 blades.)

Now...if I could just stop burning up belts.

Ok. You convinced me. Do you have the part number for the Flailmaster clevis you used?

Other than grinding the ears and compressing them, did you have to file the holes in order to accept the bolt without binding?

 

[DaNag]

Ok. You convinced me. Do you have the part number for the Flailmaster clevis you used?

Other than grinding the ears and compressing them, did you have to file the holes in order to accept the bolt without binding?

Flailmaster clevis is M-100761. As of a couple weeks ago, price was 2.30 each.

Blades you likely already know the part number for, but for others watching - they're M-108381 @ $1.54 each.

Flailmaster has free shipping once you hit $150. As it turns out - a complete set of clevises (28) and blades (56) just barely surpasses that if one is so inclined.

No need for any tweaking of the clevis bolt holes. The holes are 7/16", which is about 1.1mm larger than the M10 bolt needs. However, this works out perfectly as the clevis holes are no longer perfectly aligned when you compress them in the vice. After doing so, the M10 fits very well - very little play, but no interference of motion.

Speaking of which, if one needs the bolts/nuts - I bought a bunch of them from nutty.com. They've got decent prices and reasonable shipping on the M10x80 bolts as well as the M10x1.5 nylok nuts.

 

[IslandTractor]

Flailmaster clevis is M-100761. As of a couple weeks ago, price was 2.30 each.

Blades you likely already know the part number for, but for others watching - they're M-108381 @ $1.54 each.

Flailmaster has free shipping once you hit $150. As it turns out - a complete set of clevises (28) and blades (56) just barely surpasses that if one is so inclined.

No need for any tweaking of the clevis bolt holes. The holes are 7/16", which is about 1.1mm larger than the M10 bolt needs. However, this works out perfectly as the clevis holes are no longer perfectly aligned when you compress them in the vice. After doing so, the M10 fits very well - very little play, but no interference of motion.

Speaking of which, if one needs the bolts/nuts - I bought a bunch of them from nutty.com. They've got decent prices and reasonable shipping on the M10x80 bolts as well as the M10x1.5 nylok nuts.

Thanks. I also found that Grainger sells the M10x80 bolts and locknuts in separate bags of 25 for a reasonable price.

 

[nova3930]

Was looking at the data plate on the flail I snagged. It says 917 and 22-183 which means it's a 6 footer and not a 5 footer. Thinking about it I should have realized that when it took up most of my 8ft truck bed.

 

[psj12]

Is there another source of parts for the Caroni TM1900 other than Agri Supply? They stopped carrying the roller for the 1900 although they still carry the shorter models.

 

[IslandTractor]

Is there another source of parts for the Caroni TM1900 other than Agri Supply? They stopped carrying the roller for the 1900 although they still carry the shorter models.

Try to talk with their buyer..they order stuff from Caroni all the time and should be able to make a special order to include with their next regular shipment.

 

[nova3930]

Well here's my new to me ford 917 including a pic of the blades that are on it. Only real mechanical defect I found on it was a previous owner had let bad bearing go on the roller to the point it wore a hole in the housing. Guy I bought it from had replaced the bearing with a sealed unit. If I keep it long enough for the sealed bearing to go out I may take it to the machine shop and let them braze it up and repair it correctly. I also got a bag full of the mounting rings and some spare blades in the deal. The belt guard came with it as well, it's just not on at the moment, guy had taken it off so I could inspect the pulley system.

 

[IslandTractor]

Well here's my new to me ford 917 including a pic of the blades that are on it. Only real mechanical defect I found on it was a previous owner had let bad bearing go on the roller to the point it wore a hole in the housing. Guy I bought it from had replaced the bearing with a sealed unit. If I keep it long enough for the sealed bearing to go out I may take it to the machine shop and let them braze it up and repair it correctly. I also got a bag full of the mounting rings and some spare blades in the deal. The belt guard came with it as well, it's just not on at the moment, guy had taken it off so I could inspect the pulley system. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/378060-lets-talk-flail-mowers-flail-1-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/378061-lets-talk-flail-mowers-flail-2-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/378062-lets-talk-flail-mowers-flail-3-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/378063-lets-talk-flail-mowers-blade-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/378064-lets-talk-flail-mowers-flail-damage-jpg"/>

That was a deal for $500. Looks beefier than the Caroni and the Caroni is plenty strong.

 

[leonz]

As I said in response to your other posting call agrisupply and ask for Rodney Barbour.
Mr. Barbour is the import manager for the Caroni line of implements carried by agri supply.

The person who told you that is absolutely wrong and they make these mowers everyday as well as the parts.

 

[nova3930]

That was a deal for $500. Looks beefier than the Caroni and the Caroni is plenty strong.

I thought so. I went fully prepared to haggle and couldn't do it in good concience. Thought it was probably worth a bit more than $500....

 

[mjstef]

Which way are these flails turning? My limited experience was with a Dandl in the late 80's. It was a forward rotating rotor so it would lift the grass knocked down by the tires pretty well. From what i am seeing everything out there is reverse rotation. I do remember the Dandl being VERY smooth as it has a Pendulum mounted bearing at each end of the rotor which allowed the rotor to self balance.

 

[dieselscout80]

Well here's my new to me ford 917 including a pic of the blades that are on it. Only real mechanical defect I found on it was a previous owner had let bad bearing go on the roller to the point it wore a hole in the housing. Guy I bought it from had replaced the bearing with a sealed unit. If I keep it long enough for the sealed bearing to go out I may take it to the machine shop and let them braze it up and repair it correctly. I also got a bag full of the mounting rings and some spare blades in the deal. The belt guard came with it as well, it's just not on at the moment, guy had taken it off so I could inspect the pulley system.

I love my 917.

Those knive are what mine has (three rows of 11) work great. They cut lawn grass, clip pastures and even do light bushhog type cutting.

I sharpen mine with a 4.5" angle grinder with a flap wheel.

Great score.

 

[oldtoyboyd]

Does anybody have or know where a 918H is for parts?
I am looking for some hitch parts and skids for mine.

 

[nova3930]

I love my 917.

Those knive are what mine has (three rows of 11) work great. They cut lawn grass, clip pastures and even do light bushhog type cutting.

I sharpen mine with a 4.5" angle grinder with a flap wheel.

Great score.

I put a new CNH belt on it and tried it out yesterday. It worked pretty well although I think the blades need a good sharpening. Due to the rocks, we've been unable to cut the front part of my place so it was overgrown with weeds. Mower tended to bog down in some of the heavier woodier weeds like pigweed. Also seemed like it was missing some strips.

Also could potentially be the tractor I was borrowing didn't have enough PTO power for that size mower. I was using a Kubota L3800 HST which only has about 29HP @ the PTO. On top of that I may not have had it adjusted correctly being the first time I've used it and all.

I may just go ahead and put new blades on it so I know they're in good shape before I use it again.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I love my 917.

Those knive are what mine has (three rows of 11) work great. They cut lawn grass, clip pastures and even do light bushhog type cutting.

I sharpen mine with a 4.5" angle grinder with a flap wheel.

Great score.

I also have a new to me 917. Dieselscout, do you take the knives off when you sharpen them with the flap wheel or are you able to do it with them still on the flail?

I used the 917 for the third time yesterday. I changed the belt prior to using. I didn't have belt failure but just thought I would preempt any potential problems. The old belt looked pretty worn.

I use it at my property a couple of hours from home. I have a cabin and cut the yard area the first couple of uses. Yesterday I cut a grown over food plot area. The grass/weeds were about waist high. I wasn't sure what to expect. It is a six foot mower on a Kubota 3430, 34/29.5 HP. The cut was excellent compared to a bush hog and barely lugged the tractor at all. A flail is truly a good dual purpose cutter. It works well for finish type cutting and getting into the taller stuff as well. By the way, I got mine for $400.00 on CL. It has been trouble free so far, knock on wood.

 

[Sub-Cadet68]

I'm leaning towards this unit vs. the Caroni I ALMOST bought. FM-62 Flail Mower - WoodMaxx Mowers & Tillers

It's a little more money... but I like the fact that the rear baffle can be opened up & rear discharge to negate mulching in really high material.

My only concern is that the PTO on my machine is rated at 20hp and their unit calls for 25hp vs. 20hp on the comparable Caroni.

I spoke with Will from Woodmaxx for about 25 minutes on my lunch break today. He told me in no uncertain terms that the unit would be under powered on my tractor in very high grass/brush... but I'd be just fine using it for finish mowing/striping the majority of my lawn and knocking down a quarter acre or so that is rough and overgrown. It sounds like I'll just need to mow the rough stuff in low range at 1/2 to 1/4 speed.

Does anyone here use one?

 

[leonz]

now that I have seen thier video I can candidly say "no dont buy it" for two reasons.


There are no tubular weldments to hold the shroud and side weldments square and
to prevent it from racking/ twisting and thats never good.

The other reason is the side plates are bolted to the mower shroud.

That is not good simply because the mower can still twist and rack
even with thick steel plate that looks substantial. that is the reason
you see high quality flail mowers with tube frame construction and
full welds.


I would rather see you purchase a four foot Caroni with the F rotor and yes they
will order them and import them for you.



Disclaimer: The opinions offered by me are mine and mine alone alone and based
on my 30 plus years of ownership and operating flail mowers as a consumer.