Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[BriManley]

Ok, good to know others mow this way. Definitely easier being extended and seeing it in the mirror than turning around. Good point on the length, I didn’t verify it when purchased two years ago. Dealer said it was ready to go. Measured the gap now and need 60”-82”. I’ll try to measure the old shaft.

 

[LMychajluk]

Speaking of Ditch Bank Mowers, what's the common setup when using it in the typical mower mode (level and directly behind the tractor)?

I recently got the MechMaxx Ditch Bank Mower... there's not much info in the manual in setting it up, but there's a bit more in the Offset Mower manual, so I went with that. I lowered the roller to the lowest setting (highest cutting height), used the lower 'hole' in the top link bracket vs the 'slot', adjusted the top link to lift the front of the mower a bit, checked the torque on the hammers, and off I went to mow some light brush alongside a trail. An hour later I was missing 7 of the 8 right-most hammers - it seems like the bolts all broke (I found one, one or two were still hanging in the brackets, and I found 4/7 of the hammers).

Should I be using the 'slot' (to provide a bit of float to the front/back tilt)? I'm assuming I want to keep the roller on the ground, w/ the mower tilted up a bit in the front(?).

 

[LouNY]

I run mine with the top link in the slot to give a bit of float to it, also the lift/angle cylinder on mine has a slot to allow the mower some tilt float. I tend to trim the lift/angle cylinder while mowing on uneven terrain to try and keep the cylinder centered in that slot unless the outer end needs to be lifted for some reason.

 

[LMychajluk]

Thx. I'll move the top link back to the slot, but I may need a longer top-link to keep it tilted back for a minimum cutting height. I think I may have the slots on the side cylinder as well (I also have a CKse), so I'll try that, too.

 

[JWR]

Speaking of Ditch Bank Mowers, what's the common setup when using it in the typical mower mode (level and directly behind the tractor)?

I recently got the MechMaxx Ditch Bank Mower... there's not much info in the manual in setting it up, but there's a bit more in the Offset Mower manual, so I went with that. I lowered the roller to the lowest setting (highest cutting height), used the lower 'hole' in the top link bracket vs the 'slot', adjusted the top link to lift the front of the mower a bit, checked the torque on the hammers, and off I went to mow some light brush alongside a trail. An hour later I was missing 7 of the 8 right-most hammers - it seems like the bolts all broke (I found one, one or two were still hanging in the brackets, and I found 4/7 of the hammers).

Should I be using the 'slot' (to provide a bit of float to the front/back tilt)? I'm assuming I want to keep the roller on the ground, w/ the mower tilted up a bit in the front(?).

How light was that brush? I'm a little surprised that you lost hammers in the situation you describe. I run "Y" flails rather than hammers and lose a few in every extended work period of pasture clearing and clipping. They just won't stand unforeseen limbs, posts, rocks, etc. Because of that I only use the fail mower in "tame" areas where rocks, limbs and debris are not present or at least rare. A lot of guys on here are using the hammer (rather than Y flails) and describe cutting some pretty ferocious brush without losing cutters. Back to the practice/technique/setup: Your 3pt hitch is inherently floating. I don't see any need for slotted links. For one thing slotted links would allow rocking motion of the mower about the axis of the roller besides normal up and down. I do not like that idea and do not see any advantage of it. As far as general operation, my understanding is these things are intended to ride on the roller continuously. Once you choose a roller position in the side frames the cutting depth is controlled by your top link (which is why I consider an hydraulic top link to be a necessity for using a flail mower.) You set cutting depth with that top link.

 

[K5lwq]

On my ditch bank mower, I don’t use my top link to set the height. I have found I have a better cut by using the lift arms to level the mower and adjust my lever stop to that point and tighten it down.

Then I adjust my top link to the mid point in the slot so the mower can follow the curvature of the ground better. I also mow with the rotate cylinder valve in float.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

So, on uneven terrain, wouldn't it make more sense to use a chain as a top link, to prevent damage? Same with a brush hog? I can see using a toplink with level ground...

 

[brewdog]

I have a 48” flail for my small tractor and its been excellent. Cuts, grinds and pulverizes brush, grass and garden clean up and vines. I would say its slower than a rotary cutter for sure. It doesn’t fling debris and long chunks and sticks around like the rotary cutters do. The State uses flails for clean up along the roadways. You can imagine the trash and junk those flails deal with. I like the compactness of the flail vs the rotary cutters.

 

[leonz]

So, on uneven terrain, wouldn't it make more sense to use a chain as a top link, to prevent damage? Same with a brush hog? I can see using a toplink with level ground...

No, the rigid top link prevents the flail mower from tipping
forward and causing damage to the flail mower rotor.

The left and right lower link create the level X axis and the
top link creates the Y axis for the proper mowing height
from side to side.

The right lower link is used for in furrow plowing where
the right wheels are riding in the furrow depth of cut by
adjusting the travel of the right lower link to allow the
toe of the leveled moldboard plow to reach the desired
depth of slice/suck to open the furrow.

Once the lower links and top link create the triangle for
the solid mounting of the mower to the tractor the rear
roller is moved up to reduce the mowing height of cut or
lowered to raise the height of cut.

Once the lower links are leveled and locked in place by
the tightening of the depth adjustment knob you are
ready to mow.

The other methods of managing the cutting height are the
use of 2 caster wheels in front or 4 caster wheels-2 in front
and 2 in the rear and using the height control washers to raise
the flail mower shroud of the mower up or down leaving the
rear roller elevated slightly.

This reduces the amount of pressure gradient created by the
rotation of the flail mower rotor and the lift created by the flail
mower scoop/side slicer or hammer knives.

Land leveling with a scraper and or filling in dips and ruts with sand
are the only real ways to avoid scalping with rotary cutters or rotary
mowers.

 

[LMychajluk]

How light was that brush? ...

In my 'test run', I was mowing the brush alongside a trail under the power lines in the back of the property. The power company had come in and mulched everything under the lines within the last 2 years, so there was nothing that was really thick. What the mower cut, it seemed to do a pretty good job on. I'm wondering if the M12 bolts that were used to hold the hammers are just cheap (there's no indication in the manual what grade they should be).

I'd be OK w/ a 3-4" cutting height if I can set my top link accordingly. I'm using both my remotes for the mower, so if I add a hydraulic top link, I would need an additional remote or diverter. I don't think using a chain (@Mtsoxfan) is the way to go, because you don't want it tilting forward more than you want.

 

[LouNY]

Your mowers height is set by the rear roller which should be on the ground and "rolling" when ever possible.
Then the height of your lower lift arms sets the height of the front of the mower, which will also adjust your mowing height too.
It is normally desired to maintain a lift arm height that keeps the side skids off the ground in most cases.
The toplink should just be along for the ride except when lifting the mower over obstructions or when trying to mow while carrying the mower at a height were the tractor is holding the mower up with the rear roller in the air.

 

[LMychajluk]

I'll give that a try. I've been trying to set it so that w/ the 3pt all the way down (rollers on the ground) , it's running high along the front edge at its min cutting height (ideally, ~3", I think) with the skids not touching (or barely along the back edges). (When I set it this way, the chains that hang along the front edge are 2-3" off the ground.) The problem I have been running into is that when it's high enough in the front w/ the 'tilt' from the top link to give me a min ~3" cutting height, I can no longer lift the mower high enough w/ the 3pt to swing it into the 90degree position, even w/ the 3pt all the way up - the gearbox hits the ground way before the mower is vertical. I'd really like to lower the roller a bit more, but there are only 2 holes available in the roller bracket, I've already lowered it to the lower (higher cut) setting, I'm not seeing any way that I could drill another or otherwise modify it to be lower...

 

[leonz]

If your right lower link is causing the gearbox to nearly touch the ground
you need to adjust the right lower link so that it is level with the left lower link.
This is the correct adjustment for an orchard and vineyard shredder/verge mower
to work properly and hug the ground as well as mow/slash with the mower in the
vertical extended position.

 

[LMychajluk]

The left and right lower links are level with each other.

 

[leonz]

Do you have adjustable length lower links or are they solid steel castings?

If they are adjustable are both lower links the same length?

Are the turnbuckles adjusted to the same length?
Are there chains holding the lower links in place and are they equal in length?

You may end up removing the lower links and raising them up two to four teeth to gain height
as they are set up for a moldboard plow.

 

[LMychajluk]

The lower links do 'extend', though I only extend them when hooking up. Once connected, I push back a bit w/ the tractor and they lock into the short position. I'm not even sure they lock in the extended position.

The turnbuckles to adjust tilt are the same length. The left one is just a fixed rod, with a turnbuckle on the right (to allow for leveling, I'm assuming?), and the lower arms sit level with nothing attached. I'm assuming it came level from the dealer, and I haven't putzed with this much since I bought the tractor, as I've never had the need. Not my tractor, but this is a pic of an identical tractor's rear setup:

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There are no chains on the rear. Would these be to adjust the lower arms side-to-side? I have a solid bar on each side that sits in a channel and gets pinned at a certain length that controls how far in/out (L/R) the arm sits. Once I get the attachment hooked up, I make sure I use the same pin holes on both sides and I know my attachment is centered.

I'll have to take a closer look to see if there's any additional pins or other method to raise the lower arms other than w/ the hydraulics.

 

[leonz]

When turn buckles or chains are used on the lower links
they prevent the lower links from shifting from side to side
your mule does not have that ability.

If your mule has the same hoisting arrangement for the
integrally mounted 3 point hitch implements you will
need to tighten the turnbuckle at least 3 threads to
prevent the mower gearbox from hitting the ground
when you rotate the flail mower shroud to vertical.

As this mule has no owner useable adjustment for the
lower links other than the right turn buckle you will have
to use the right turnbuckle to shorten the right lower link
to increase the height of the mower when it is rotated to
vertical and lock the draft control.

 

[LMychajluk]

...

As this mule has no owner useable adjustment for the
lower links other than the right turn buckle you will have
to use the right turnbuckle to shorten the right lower link
to increase the height of the mower when it is rotated to
vertical and lock the draft control.

I'm not too familiar with tractors other than my own, but I thought it seemed to have a good number of adjustments, incl. the side to side (not a chain or turnbuckle, but a pair of sliding 'braces' that can be pinned every inch or so). But, I doesn't seem that I have any vertical adjustments for the lower arms other than the hydraulics. Here's a pic of the brace on the right, and there's an identical one on the left that's not visible in the pic:

I'll play with the adjustments some more and see what I can do when I get the replacement hammers (Mon, I think) and get the mower back on the tractor. The issue w/ the gearbox hitting the ground when rotated only seemed to happen when I tried to extend the top-link to limit how far the mower tilts forward. When I did this, the yoke(? - what the 3pt attaches to) would not be vertical, and therefore the side-shift and rotation mechanisms wouldn't be on the right axis. Maybe I just need to learn to not put the arms all the way down when mowing...

Thanks for all the responses, btw!

 

[LouNY]

I'm not too familiar with tractors other than my own, but I thought it seemed to have a good number of adjustments, incl. the side to side (not a chain or turnbuckle, but a pair of sliding 'braces' that can be pinned every inch or so). But, I doesn't seem that I have any vertical adjustments for the lower arms other than the hydraulics. Here's a pic of the brace on the right, and there's an identical one on the left that's not visible in the pic:

View attachment 3637113

I'll play with the adjustments some more and see what I can do when I get the replacement hammers (Mon, I think) and get the mower back on the tractor. The issue w/ the gearbox hitting the ground when rotated only seemed to happen when I tried to extend the top-link to limit how far the mower tilts forward. When I did this, the yoke(? - what the 3pt attaches to) would not be vertical, and therefore the side-shift and rotation mechanisms wouldn't be on the right axis. Maybe I just need to learn to not put the arms all the way down when mowing...

Thanks for all the responses, btw!

Just low enough to mow well.

 

[K5lwq]

I'm not too familiar with tractors other than my own, but I thought it seemed to have a good number of adjustments, incl. the side to side (not a chain or turnbuckle, but a pair of sliding 'braces' that can be pinned every inch or so). But, I doesn't seem that I have any vertical adjustments for the lower arms other than the hydraulics. Here's a pic of the brace on the right, and there's an identical one on the left that's not visible in the pic:

View attachment 3637113

I'll play with the adjustments some more and see what I can do when I get the replacement hammers (Mon, I think) and get the mower back on the tractor. The issue w/ the gearbox hitting the ground when rotated only seemed to happen when I tried to extend the top-link to limit how far the mower tilts forward. When I did this, the yoke(? - what the 3pt attaches to) would not be vertical, and therefore the side-shift and rotation mechanisms wouldn't be on the right axis. Maybe I just need to learn to not put the arms all the way down when mowing...

Thanks for all the responses, btw!

You could remove the left lift arm side link and drill another hole about an inch above the bottom hole. Then use this new hole when you reinstall. Then adjust the right lift arm to even things out again. That should give you plenty of lift.

Like this arm that was on my Kioti.