Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[IslandTractor]

I do not own a rear finish mower with 4 gauge wheels,,, yet,,,
I doubt they added them just to increase cost,,,

Remember we are talking about flail mowers not rotary finish mowers. Flail mowers ride on a full length rear roller that takes the place of gauge wheels to keep the mower properly oriented. Rotary mowers don't have rollers so need wheels.

 

[flailwithoutfail]

Hello, all.

I have been reading and researching (much of this thread) and have decided on a model flail mower that I think will work with the conditions and tractor we have. As mentioned before we run a Swaraj 855 FE (about 50 HP) and the Peruzzo ELK model flail seems like a good fit for us. I'm just curious as to whether the 1600 or 1800 model will be better for our tractor. After thorough checking and a lot of discussion, I am able to report that 100 acres will be our minimum requirement for a flail mowing - at least two full passes per year.

In addition, based on the reading here, I'm thinking the Hammer style blades will be a good choice given the rocky mountain terrain our grass grows on.

Due to the very rural area we're in and the zero chance of finding replacement parts I'm considering including a spare parts package that will last us about 3 years of use (in case of necessary replacement due to damage or wear. If possible please correct me as I'm doing this for the first time!

Spare parts list:

Wheels Accessory for grass cutting

Spare Belts : 9

Spare Hammer Flails : 60

Spare bolts to fix hammer flails : 30

Side anti-wear side skids : 2 kits

PTO shaft : 1

I have found a lot of information on this site and thank all of you for your help and assistance that is much needed!

Thank you.

 

[Fallon]

Is 1600 & 1800 the width in mm? That's not quite 6'. I pulled a 7' old Ford 917 with a 32hp (25hp PTO) just fine. Had to go a bit slower, but still cleared an acre an hour in the open.

Not that you'd be able to double my speed, but if you could that's still around 2 weeks to mow that 100 acres. I'd wager more like 3-4 weeks. I'd be looking at a wider mower to cover that ground.

 

[CADplans]

Due to the very rural area we're in and the zero chance of finding replacement parts I'm considering including a spare parts package that will last us about 3 years of use (in case of necessary replacement due to damage or wear. If possible please correct me as I'm doing this for the first time!

Spare parts list:

Wheels Accessory for grass cutting

Spare Belts : 9

Spare Hammer Flails : 60

Spare bolts to fix hammer flails : 30

Side anti-wear side skids : 2 kits

PTO shaft : 1

I have flail mowed easily the amount you want to mow for the next three years,,,
and I have replaced nothing.

Hmmm,, maybe only 2 years worth,, but,, surely that spare parts list is way overkill.

 

[IslandTractor]

Hello, all.

I have been reading and researching (much of this thread) and have decided on a model flail mower that I think will work with the conditions and tractor we have. As mentioned before we run a Swaraj 855 FE (about 50 HP) and the Peruzzo ELK model flail seems like a good fit for us. I'm just curious as to whether the 1600 or 1800 model will be better for our tractor. After thorough checking and a lot of discussion, I am able to report that 100 acres will be our minimum requirement for a flail mowing - at least two full passes per year.

In addition, based on the reading here, I'm thinking the Hammer style blades will be a good choice given the rocky mountain terrain our grass grows on.

Due to the very rural area we're in and the zero chance of finding replacement parts I'm considering including a spare parts package that will last us about 3 years of use (in case of necessary replacement due to damage or wear. If possible please correct me as I'm doing this for the first time!

Spare parts list:

Wheels Accessory for grass cutting

Spare Belts : 9

Spare Hammer Flails : 60

Spare bolts to fix hammer flails : 30

Side anti-wear side skids : 2 kits

PTO shaft : 1

I have found a lot of information on this site and thank all of you for your help and assistance that is much needed!

Thank you.

Unless you have some time critical applications, I wouldn't bother with all those spare parts. Just have them shipped UPS when you do need them. I keep one set of spare belts on hand and about a couple dozen knives and a dozen clevises and bolts/locknuts. Definitely do not buy extra "anti wear skids"....if you have those properly adjusted they will last your grandchildren's lifetime. No need for a spare PTO shaft either. PTO shafts are not really wear items.

As I think I've already noted in this thread or a similar one recently, gauge wheels on a flail are pretty much superfluous. I don't have them and have been happy for ten years without. Only a few folks here seem to have them on flails.

If you are running a commercial mowing operation then a few more spare parts might be considered as time is money in that setting. For mowing your own property however there is virtually never a time when a particular mowing job cannot be put off for 3-5 days while UPS gets you your spares.

 

[aarolar]

Found a used TM1900 on Facebook tonight going to look at it and probably pick it up tomorrow and save a fee hundred bucks over a new one. Any important things I should check on it before I hand over my cash?

 

[IslandTractor]

Found a used TM1900 on Facebook tonight going to look at it and probably pick it up tomorrow and save a fee hundred bucks over a new one. Any important things I should check on it before I hand over my cash?

Make sure it has been greased. Pull the cover off the belt/pulleys and inspect. You'll probably want to put a new set of Kevlar Gates B43 belts on anyway (check size, pretty sure it is B43 but that is from memory). Belts should be tight with about 1/2" thumb deflection.

If the flail is mounted then have him spin it up. It will shake a bit at start up but should settle down and be reasonably smooth at 2000rpm. When the motor is off, lift the flail high and inspect the rotor and all 28 mounts. Knives and clevises are replaceable/wear items but that rotor is more than half the cost of a new flail to replace so make sure it isn't damaged. The rear roller might be dinged up, no problem, but it should turn easily and not be "banana" shaped. Check to see that the main bearings on the rotor take grease (and ideally look like they have been greased regularly). The rear roller also has zerks on both sides (not so critical). There is also a zerk on top of the secondary drive shaft just near the belt cover. One more under the belt cover for the tension arm that can only be greased by removing it (once a season is adequate). Also check that that PTO drive shaft is greased and in good shape. Finally, just inspect the gearbox oil. Level is not critical so long as there is some on the dipstick. If the mower isn't mounted then make sure all the 3PT mounting hardware is present (just like on any other mower).

 

[Dan in MN]

Lucky to find that one! Used flails are few and far between... I tried to buy a 91" New Holland 918H a few weeks ago but couldn't quite get my price, still might end up with it but right now I've got a serious jones for a 12' batwing... :licking:

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I have a Ford 917 flail that I am going to sell. Everything is in good working order. Give me a guestimate on a reasonable asking price.

 

[aarolar]

Make sure it has been greased. Pull the cover off the belt/pulleys and inspect. You'll probably want to put a new set of Kevlar Gates B43 belts on anyway (check size, pretty sure it is B43 but that is from memory). Belts should be tight with about 1/2" thumb deflection.

If the flail is mounted then have him spin it up. It will shake a bit at start up but should settle down and be reasonably smooth at 2000rpm. When the motor is off, lift the flail high and inspect the rotor and all 28 mounts. Knives and clevises are replaceable/wear items but that rotor is more than half the cost of a new flail to replace so make sure it isn't damaged. The rear roller might be dinged up, no problem, but it should turn easily and not be "banana" shaped. Check to see that the main bearings on the rotor take grease (and ideally look like they have been greased regularly). The rear roller also has zerks on both sides (not so critical). There is also a zerk on top of the secondary drive shaft just near the belt cover. One more under the belt cover for the tension arm that can only be greased by removing it (once a season is adequate). Also check that that PTO drive shaft is greased and in good shape. Finally, just inspect the gearbox oil. Level is not critical so long as there is some on the dipstick. If the mower isn't mounted then make sure all the 3PT mounting hardware is present (just like on any other mower).

Thanks most of that is obvious I'll definitely check out the rotor for sure and after reading about the early bearing failure from not greasing regular it makes me nervous I don't want something that needs repair right off. He's only 200$ less than new not including tax but said it's less than a year old with little use, supposedly his elderly father bought it and decided he likes a bush hog cut better.

Lucky to find that one! Used flails are few and far between... I tried to buy a 91" New Holland 918H a few weeks ago but couldn't quite get my price, still might end up with it buy right now I've got a serious jones for a 12' batwing... :licking:

Yep the one I ordered should come in this week so I was that close to paying new price and I still might depending on how this one looks.