Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[TheFarmerInAdell]

With my Alamo SHD88 I usually run towards the top end of mid range on the HST. Not sure the exact speed, but it was about all my seat could handle due to the bumps. It seems to cut well at that speed. In fact, I mowed my lawn with it at about that speed and was satisfied with the cut (wife was, too).

 

[JWR]

I run an Alamo SHD-88 7.5ft flail alternating with a 7ft Bush Hog on an 81 horse MF2660 low profile tractor. So many variations it is hard to make a blanket statement. Comments below are based on my "speed decal" on the tractor fender, not that I ever know at the time how fast I am going. I have a 4speed stick with high and low ranges.

In very rough areas, ruts, and very steep areas I am running a lot slower and some times almost creeping. In general nearly all of my cutting is light brush, tall grass, and what people tend to call "clipping pasture fields." Most of my slowest pasture cutting is done at 3 to 4 mph (std rpm in low range/high gear.) In flatter and smoother areas , probably 75% of my time, I run about 5-6 mph (std rpm, high range/ low gear.) There are are some areas that are smoother and cut more frequently where I run 8-9mph (using high range/ 2nd gear). I never run faster than that with either the hog or the flail.

I find that roughness of the ground is a bigger factor than anything else. Overall my impression is that I can cut faster with the flail than the hog but not by much. The 6" wider flail is an almost negligible difference in width of the two machines. The tractor doesn't care as it is big enough to run however fast I feel comfortable and it pays very little attention to the mower. Because my flail is offset around 2ft to the right I tend to use it in some areas (getting close to fences & ditches) more than others.

I do find the flail is not the right tool when there are a lot of downed limbs or rocks, either one. The hog will definitely ride through that sort of problem area with less problem than the flail. I've broken cutters off the flail 3 or 4 times in 2 years trying to cope with 2" downed limbs and once with a 6 or 7" rock. I've never seen anything stop the Bush Hog but I am pretty careful what I cut. .

 

[Lnk]

I run as fast as I feel comfortable. Mid range, 3rd gear usually. I don't know how fast that is, but any faster and I bump around too much. If I got a patch of really tall, thick grass, I slow down and let it eat. I don't have any surprises as I have already mowed all my areas and found all the wire already. Also agree 6 inch width difference is meaningless as I can't place the flail at any speed that precisely and tend to err on the overlap. I have pulled a 10' brush cutter and didn't run any faster or get done any quicker than the 9 foot flail.

 

[hunt4570]

I've "lusted" over a new flail mower for a long time. It always seems to be just off the top of my list of "needs"......and I have a good Bush Hog Rotary Cutter. That Woodmax 78H kinda tears at me and my resistance is caving more everyday.

Question to those of you with a 30 PTO HP tractor and Flail mower experience......Is 30 PTO HP enough for the WM 78H? It would cover my 66" width but I fear I am at the edge on the HP needs. I would keep my 60" Rotary for heavy brush and use the Flail mainly for grassy trails and food plots (clover and rye / oats)???

I've been back and forth on Hammers vs Knives.....but lately seem to be in the Knives camp (as I think I'd get a better mulch). Decisions / decisions.

Being able to reach to the right an extra foot or so would make my cab happy on my brushy trails and around my buildings......and the finely chopped mulch would sure be good for my soils.

OH.....and, how reliable and bullet-proof is that hydraulic side shift on these Woodmax flails. I've not read of problems. Nice feature for my purposes.

Thanks for any inputs.....I've been reading this thread for a loong time.

I have a Kubota 3540 hydro, tractor data lists my pto at 28 hp. I've been running a Caroni 73" for about 4 years now and seems like a pretty good match. Real thick stuff I have to slow down a bit but for mowing "grassy" trails and fields I'm usually going about 3 ish mph. I have the knives on mine. Its offset maybe a foot or so with a manual move to 18-20" offset if I want. Seems like a decent machine. Don't know about the Woodmaxx other than I have a Woodmaxx sawmill which seems well built. Good luck on your endeavor..

 

[hunt4570]

What speed do most of you run when flail mowing areas like pasture maintenance (not cutting overgrown plots)?

I try to run 3.5 MPH with my Ford 917 (74") on my IH 424, but 2nd gear 2.5 seems to give a cleaner cut, but is very slow.

Just got done mowing some of my fields, seems to cut best with cruise at around 3.0 or so.. thicker or lighter areas I'll adjust that some.

 

[dieselscout80]

With my Alamo SHD88 I usually run towards the top end of mid range on the HST. Not sure the exact speed, but it was about all my seat could handle due to the bumps. It seems to cut well at that speed. In fact, I mowed my lawn with it at about that speed and was satisfied with the cut (wife was, too).

Tractor Data shows 7.7 is the top speed in mid range for the MF 2706E.
TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 276E tractor transmission information

That's clipping along at a good speed say 5.5 to 6 MPH.

I won't be able to do that due the terrain.

 

[prof fate]

So reading back the last pages...It looks like the Woodmax is the current go to for flail mowers?

I would like something that has:
hydraulic offset
72" or wider cut
reliable
low maint
quick attach compatible
good parts availability

in the budget area....caroni is good I hear and about the same price. maaschio makes the land pride..you know, if you have $8k to spend. I'm sure for that price they're better...they'd have to be.

 

[prof fate]

terrain is usually my limiting factor more so that the HP or cutting ability.

It's why th efast/commercial zero turns have suspensions!

Tractor Data shows 7.7 is the top speed in mid range for the MF 2706E.
TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 276E tractor transmission information

That's clipping along at a good speed say 5.5 to 6 MPH.

I won't be able to do that due the terrain.

 

[leonz]

Hello prof fate,

Kubota/landpride stopped importing the Maschio flailmowers in land pride paint shortly after the Kubota folks purchased the landpride company.

If one wished to they could still purchase the Maschio orchard and vineyard flail mowers for all their mowing work.

It is a real shame as the Maschio group makes excellent farm machinery.

 

[Molalla1]

Hello prof fate,

Kubota/landpride stopped importing the Maschio flailmowers in land pride paint shortly after the Kubota folks purchased the landpride company.

If one wished to they could still purchase the Maschio orchard and vineyard flail mowers for all their mowing work.

It is a real shame as the Maschio group makes excellent farm machinery.

How long have you had your "interest" in Maschio . . . .

 

[leonz]

I have no financial interest in the Maschio group. Personally I am just not happy when someone decides
that they can build a better flail mower than the people they were importing them from that have been
building and exporting them for many years.


Its no different than the craziness these builders go through like adding huge amounts of
weight to the floor of an open station sub compact tractor or thick rubber padding and rubber
isolation mounts to counter the 3 cylinder engines vibration due to the changing
of the fuel injection settings of the indirect injection engines so they can pass the "tailpipe tests".
These settings starve the engine of fuel and as a result cause the vibration that can be so bad
that the vibration from the uneven unbalanced combustion cycles telegraphs to the steering
wheel on some mules.

They would not have to do any of that work if they simply installed catalytic converters and
the engines would not be starved of fuel causing the excess vibration.

There are a lot of indirect injection diesel powered three cylinder air compressors that
run like swiss watches and do not have these issues so go figure.

Sort of like Kubota not sending their tractors to the Nebraska tractor tests in some ways.
I do not know if they still boycott the tests but it makes you wonder why they did or still
do as the case may be.

 

[Molalla1]

Good enough leonz . . . .

 

[noco]

My dad bought this flail mower about 30 years ago at an auction. I think it came from the local college. We used it for 10 years or so, averaging only 20 hours a year. It sat for 20 years and I have started using again. About 40 hours a year
I changed the oil in the gear box, new belt, attached some home made skids... Its awesome I had forgotten how good this mower is!

Its missing a couple of the rings that the blades hang from. As I look around I don't see any setups quite like mine. I have read enough on this thread to know there are some experts on here. I'm hoping someone can tell me more about my mower and where I can get matching blade setups. I cant find any model numbers and haven't seen anything online. Ill put some pictures and I can get more measurements based on feedback.

 

[leonz]

Hello and good morning noco,

I wish to welcome you as the newest resident member of the Flail Mower Nations".

What you have there is an International Harvester Company Flail Mower. The first thing I suggest that you do is contact the local CASEIH dealer and explain to them that you have an "IHC rough finish flail mower" with three rows of knife mounting stations and you need new knife hangers, nuts and bolts and spare side slicer knives for your beautiful flail mower.
Do not run the flail mower if there are any missing side slicer knife pairs as it will throw the Flail Mower Rotor out of balance and you could ruin the Flail Mower Rotor Bearings.


My friend you have a gem of a mower there. You need to set up bear traps,tiger pits, an electric fence and as a last resort chain the dog to it and back it into the shed and take the battery out of the mule.
If you were to buy a mower of that size today you would be looking at $4,000.00 used and almost $9,000.00 for a rough cut finish flail of that cutting width as a new unit for a rough finish cut on good turf and a rough cut brush mower would cost that much.

The finish cut flail mowers have 4 rows of mounting stations for the side slicer knife pairs.

It is good to see that the rubber discharge flap is still intact as it holds the grass clippings in place.

The great thing about finish flail mowers is you can go back over the clippings and recut them so there are no dead grass patches in the lawn.



IF the local CASEIH dealer cannot provide you with parts check with the flail master people in Tennessee as I believe they have that type of knife hanger in their catalog. If they do not have it the clean cutter folks may have them.

I have to run as I am late for chores.

 

[JWR]

Noco: Before long everyone in this line of interest will tell you that http://flailmaster.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Flailmaster_Catalog.pdf is THE source for parts regardless of brand. Esp if you cannot find any local source. I'd be very surprised if any IH/Case dealer still carries flail mowers of that brand -- unlikely they are still made. You MIGHT luck out and find a old dealer in business for decades who still has parts.

Good idea to find the model number and if possible & the serial number from your mower. Essentially every state and many counties use flails for roadside maintenance and there are lots of dealers even in small states that provide parts for the roadside people. It looks to me that your rubber protective flap in back is new (probably you put it on?)

Here are pictures of the flails on my Alamo SHD88 mower. You can see that the idea is the same, but the way the clevises are attached differs from yours and they are (of course) not compatible. Your flails are lighter but much longer than mine too. I'm sure you know, and others have mentioned, that the flails must ALL be present and ALL be matched or you will get horrendous vibration and troubles.

Another immediate topic is bearings. Are you able to get grease gun flow into them ? Bearings for the roller at least (from my painful experience) are rather expensive being typically pressed into a housing and having to be bought with the housing. As with ANY piece of equipment a good dealer is worth his weight in gold and hopefully you find one both for parts and for sage advice.


How wide a cut is your mower and roughly what year?

Good luck.

 

[noco]

Thanks for the info! Ill ramble on here and give you guys some more details.

I'm in Northern Colorado, weld county. We are still a pretty big ag area but its changing. Flail mowers aren稚 very well known around here. My 75 year old father-in-law has farmed all his life and wasn't familiar with them. He always used rotary mower (brush hog is what everyone calls a rotary around here) after he saw me use this last year he ordered a new 7.5 or 8 footer from John deer. I know they are expensive.

We had a big case IH dealership in town now its a kabota Ill try them.
I had looked at the flail master catalog and could not find mine. And looking around at pictures and various searches I haven't seen anything quite like mine, so I was hoping someone was familiar.

This thing looked old when we picked it up at auction 30 years ago. If I had to guess it was 30+ old when we got it. Making it over 60. I was still in high school lol. We put all new hangers and knives on that my dad got somewhere.
I have a few extra blades but no hangers. Im missing 2 hangers. Last fall I started looking around and couldn't find any so I fabricated a couple by heating and bending some 1/4 rod. One is still working and I lost one.

The inside of the tabs measure 7/8. OD is 1 3/8. I was thinking if I had to, I could change them all out but I cant find anything that would attach to that size tab (I don't know the terminology) either inside or outside.

I can get exact measurements but its about 8 foot wide with 7.5 cut.
I did put the back flap on. I used the thinner half inch thick stall mat. It does the job but I would prefer something lighter. This is hard to hold up when I look under. I have spent hours under it cutting out barb wire.

You don't have to tell me how sweet the flail mowers are. I love it. It mowers grass pasture almost as nice as lawn. It can hit rocks, concrete, prairie dog holes, thick weeds, sticks and about anything else with no worries. Although I hate to hit concrete and rocks.

Glad I found this forum

 

[Molalla1]

:thumbsup: . . . welcome to TBN noco . . .

 

[prof fate]

Hello prof fate,

Kubota/landpride stopped importing the Maschio flailmowers in land pride paint shortly after the Kubota folks purchased the landpride company.

If one wished to they could still purchase the Maschio orchard and vineyard flail mowers for all their mowing work.

It is a real shame as the Maschio group makes excellent farm machinery.

just going with the info the dealer gave me when he quoted me a price 2 months ago.

 

[Okie Again]

Ok, I have read the thread and I am ready to buy just not sure what. I have 3.5 acres that is untouched basically. After it is cleared I will mow it all. I should say I am as green as it comes on tractors issues. I worked on a dairy farm as a teenager 40 years ago, but lived in cities since then. We will have several trees to mow around. and fence on 3 sides. I will buy a Woodmaxx or Farmers Helper since I want hammers for clearing then knives later for a nicer cut maybe, and Agri Supply does not carry those.
My real question is about the hydraulic slide. I have a one hydraulic port on the back of my new tractor. I am thinking a 60 inch with hydraulic slide to help with trees or just go with a 72 inch and off set to the left still covering my tire tracts. We will have a couple dozen trees to mow around eventually.
What say you Flail Nation?

Brad

 

[troverman]

Well Brad, your signature says you have a Kubota L3200. That machine has 25 or 26PTO horsepower depending upon if it is hydrostatic or gear driven. In my opinion a 72" mower is too much, unless your terrain is flat and your grass isn't very tall / thick. I run an MX4800 with 39 PTO HP and find I can bog down in tall grass with my 72" flail mower.

The 5-foot mower is probably fine, and you really don't need a side shifter unless you want it. I don't think that would be very beneficial for trees...rather they are good for reaching out a little further off a ditch bank or near a pond, etc. With a flail mower and trees, you just have to get close and back up to the tree on each side, drop the flail and move forward.