Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,861  
If you have 70 inches outside to outside then when the mower is rigged for offset, it will not cut all the way on the left tire track. I haven't measured my outside to outside recently but somehow remember more like 66" or so on a Kioti DK40. My memory may be wrong but I suspect a Kubota 3540 would have no wider a stance than the larger Kioti. It has been a few months since I last mowed but I recall that I can run my left tires just at the outside edge of uncut grass (i.e. running on the previously cut grass right at the border) and achieve maximum cut width with the mower offset.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,862  
I have the Value Leader, 68", and I haven't had the same experience.

The fit and finish reminds me of something you'd buy at Harbor Freight. Runs in the powder coat, cardboard stuck to a couple pieces from being sprayed sitting on the cardboard, some ugly welds and rough edges, etc.
The paint on mine is fine. I suspect with Chinese imports the importer is shopping at several different manufacturers so the quality isn't consistent.

The collars on the ends of the PTO shaft were incredibly brittle plastic. So those disintegrated as soon as I ran it. The PTO shaft it comes with is incredibly heavy/awkward.
Not my experience

It comes with pins for the 3PH and the lynch pins that it comes with are garbage. They just fall out. I bought a bag from TSC and replaced them for a couple bucks.
I did have this problem. Even the replacement pins fall out all the time. I don't know why. Now I just keep a bag of zip ties in the shed and tie them in.

Overall, it cuts pretty well. It will cut grass and it looks like lawn. It's not as nice as a good lawn mower but it's passable. It doesn't have updraft like a high quality lawnmower so the cut isn't as good. It will cut tall grass that a rotary lawn mower will clog on. However, there is a limit, once the grass gets to be a foot or more it starts to choke and get grass wrapped around the shaft. This is particularly true with grass being cut for the first time this year. A rotary rough mower will handle that grass with no problem, and if I do that first and wait a few days for the cuttings to dry I can follow with the flail and get a nice cut.

It mulches everything down fine, finer than a mulching lawnmower. When the grass is high it creates a thick layer of mulch over the grass, which turns brown and looks unsightly. Eventually it goes away.

I find the height adjustment unwieldy. There are skids on the side that are adjustable in height, I find they just dig up the grass so I put them up all the way and have it ride solely on the rear roller. Adjusting the rear roller is a pain because it involves a lot of bolts and nuts. It's easier just to adjust the height by using the top link to adjust the angle. Since the roller is behind the blade tilting the mower forward lowers the blade and tilting it back raises it. However, the PTO shaft can't stand a lot of angle, if you tilt it too much the shear bolt breaks. There is one spot in one of my fields where there's a dip, and every time I go over it I break a shear bolt.

It can't cut super close, about 3-4" is probably the limit. Any lower and the skids start digging in.

The mower doesn't like to go backwards, the corners tend to catch and dig up the ground. So I raise it if I need to back up. However, I have to remember to disengage the PTO or I'll break the shear bolt.

It is somewhat fragile. I broke a bearing in the rear roller when I rode over a stump that was hidden in tall grass. I often break blades when I run over rocks. A rough mower would handle these with no problem. I haven't had any trouble getting repair parts.

I don't really use it on brush, but that mainly because I have a lot of rocks and anywhere there's brush there's bound to be rocks. It actually seems to do better on leafy stuff than grass.

Overall I'd probably rate it 3 out of 5 stars. A lot of little annoyances but it does what it's meant to do, I've cut a lot of grass with mine. With 68 inches you can cut a lot of grass in a little time. I have a lot of hayfields and I like to cut walking trails in them, it's great for that. It certainly isn't a "universal mower." I also have a rider mower, rough mower, hay mower, push mower and a couple of weed whackers. Each has its use, none of them do everything.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,863  
Thanks for the report..
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,864  
If you have 70 inches outside to outside then when the mower is rigged for offset.

You say when the mower is rigged for offset... can it be rigged for no offset?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,865  
You say when the mower is rigged for offset... can it be rigged for no offset?

Yes, it can be set "midline". There are two positions, midline and offset. The standard mount takes about ten or fifteen minutes to change from midline to offset. Just a matter of pulling some clevis pins, moving the 3PT 'bridge' and then reattaching the PTO shaft. There is also an optional hydraulic kit that allows you to move it back and forth or choose intermediate settings on the fly. The PTO shaft is actually in a more neutral position when the mower is offset but works fine when set for midline. "Midline" is a bit of a misnomer as the mower is still somewhat offset to the right when in the midline mount position.
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,866  
I don't seem to have any good photos of the Caroni loaded into my TBN account but these show the basic set up. Note in the first photo that there is an additional set of mounting points for the 3PT topping lift bridge at the base of the mower deck. It is held in place by a total of eight bolts (four on each side). The mounts for the lower 3PT arms are held in place by cotter pins so really not difficult to move. For practical purposes it is necessary to dismount the mower in order to make the shift.

Last photo just shows the mower in midline position on a DK40 with R4 tires set at widest stance. Mower blades on left cut just under where the tire has been while on the right side there is about a 12" or 15" offset.
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,867  
So you have had this mower since 2008? holding up ok? I'm just about ready... any discount coupons for agrisupply out there anywhere? As it is $1909 and $179 shipping...
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,868  
So you have had this mower since 2008? holding up ok? I'm just about ready... any discount coupons for agrisupply out there anywhere? As it is $1909 and $179 shipping...

Yes, I've had it since Sept 2007 and use it seasonally for both "pasture" mowing and brush clearing. The flail itself has had zero problems. The stock drive belts don't last long but kevlar replacements from Bates seem to last at least three or four seasons for me. The gearbox is notorious for burping oil and making a mess but it doesn't affect function. There is a simple metric extension that pretty much fixes that issue too and you can search on that in this thread.

The only real issue I have had is that the stock Caroni clevises wear out pretty quickly and when they break you lose two knives as well as the clevis. For practical purposes, if you use Agrisupply sourced Caroni replacements, it costs about $20 each time that happens. Recently I have switched to Flailmaster supplies although the closest clevis they sell (much heavier duty) requires a bit of grinding and bending to fit properly. I think there are several posts discuss this over the past year or two you might want to look up. You'll need to have some spares in any case but if I were buying the Caroni mower again (I would), I would take off all the stock clevises before using them (sell them to guys who like them here, $5 each would be a good discount for them). I'd simply spend an afternoon grinding and compressing the ears of the 28 Flailmaster clevises and then mow. Easiest way to compress the Flailmaster clevis ears is in a good sized bench vise, just crank it down to narrower than needed (it will spring back a bit). I forget the measurements but I made myself a little jig so I know how much to grind and how much to bend each one. While I would buy extra knives from Flailmaster, the original Caroni knives are fine so I'd just reuse them. Alternatively, just buy a big bag of 60 or so knives from Flailmaster and sell the original Caroni knives along with the clevises as sets. That would more than pay for the Flailmaster replacements.

I don't know of any AgriSupply coupons and have never seen a sale on the Caroni mower. The price has been relatively stable. I think I paid something like $1700 plus shipping in 2007.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,869  
Yea Hunt you might want to buy a couple of those Kubotas to keep up with that Caroni. Either that or you can get a Massey and get a spare Caroni. 😜
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,870  
I buy old 3point implements to refurbish and sell. Flail mowers are my favorite project. Based on what I have experienced in my shop I would give this general review.

Value Leader- 2 stars- I agree with the previous poster who compared them with Harbor Freight tools. A good choice if money is a major factor, or you don't need to use it much. Be prepared to do some minor repairs now and then, especially belt replacements. Betsy Equipment is very good in stocking and shipping parts, no worries there.

Caroni-3 stars- best overall bang for the buck. Well made, easy to get parts locally, very dependable. A bargain price wise. I don' see many of these because people want to hold on to them.

Alamo/Mott Vrissmo/ Rears 4 stars - Battle tested over the years, bugs long since worked out. These are for the users who really use their equipment hard and for those that don't like to fuss with repairs. With even a little maintenance over the year, these mowers will last for decades. Yes, if you refuse to pick up a grease gun, you will ruin the bearings, but most on this board are better than that. I make my money off the ones who aren't so smart. Parts easy to get locally, price is higher, but money well spent.
 
 

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