Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[leonz]

Did you operate the flail mower at the 540 RPM engine speed??

When you buy the new PTO shaft be sure to look up the videos of
how to measure them for the right length if you do not know how
to do it already.

Hopefully the opposing knife edges are in much better shape.

Be sure to purchase a supply of fine threaded nuts and bolts and some
blue loctite to secure them when you flip the side slicers to the opposite edge.

 

[whirly]

You are right, even with dull and bent blades the flail will beat the grass into submission. It won't be pretty but it will tear the tops off the grass leaving what might look like a bad haircut.

It would have been a better video if you had lowered the flail down onto its roller so we could see the blade clearance. However, from what I can see in the the video, if you aren't cutting anything then you need to raise the roller or shorten your top link.

 

[Kodiak45]

Yes it was at 540pto. It's just odd on how it really didn't cut anything. I think the height is set at about 4 inches. It's one hole from the highest, which I believe is 5 inches. Take a look at these pics. The 2ft tall Johnson grass was only pushed over. I'm going to have to get all new bolts and blades. All the bolts and nuts are rusted on and for the most part stripped. It was hard to tell even what size socket to use. I'm probably going to have to grind or torch them all off. I tried for almost 30 minutes to get just one off so I knew what size and length to replace them with and after fighting the fire ants from the grass from being on my back I decided to give up. I need to go ahead and order some blades so maybe I can cut this weekend. One of the bearings had a little resistance, but it wasn't grinding or anything and I can easily turn it by hand, but i'll probably go ahead and replace both the roller and shaft bearings as time allows. I just wanted to make sure the cutting shaft wasn't warped or bent before I put a bunch of money in this thing.
On another note, what is the overload point on flail mowers, meaning I'm used to seeing a shear pin or slip clutch. I assume it's just belt slippage maybe and a burnt up belt. I know the blades will just pivot back if a rock is hit, but I guess there is no break point between the tractor and gearbox.

 

[leonz]

Yes it was at 540pto. It's just odd on how it really didn't cut anything. I think the height is set at about 4 inches. It's one hole from the highest, which I believe is 5 inches. Take a look at these pics. The 2ft tall Johnson grass was only pushed over. I'm going to have to get all new bolts and blades. All the bolts and nuts are rusted on and for the most part stripped. It was hard to tell even what size socket to use. I'm probably going to have to grind or torch them all off. I tried for almost 30 minutes to get just one off so I knew what size and length to replace them with and after fighting the fire ants from the grass from being on my back I decided to give up. I need to go ahead and order some blades so maybe I can cut this weekend. One of the bearings had a little resistance, but it wasn't grinding or anything and I can easily turn it by hand, but i'll probably go ahead and replace both the roller and shaft bearings as time allows. I just wanted to make sure the cutting shaft wasn't warped or bent before I put a bunch of money in this thing.
On another note, what is the overload point on flail mowers, meaning I'm used to seeing a shear pin or slip clutch. I assume it's just belt slippage maybe and a burnt up belt. I know the blades will just pivot back if a rock is hit, but I guess there is no break point between the tractor and gearbox.

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Sorry to hear about the business with the fire ants,
We have white faced hornets and yellow jackets
as a problem up here.


Check with flailmaster and clean cutter for prices on
side slicer knives and knive hangers.

If you have a Fastenal nut and bolt retailer nearby you might
want to invest in fine threaded grade 8 Allen bolts and nuts
for replacements as the allen bolts which are referred to
as socket head bolts allow you to have more effective
contact to loosen them and reduced skinned knuckles where
you could use a breaker bar to hold the nut while you use a
long Allen wrench to loosen the nut and bolt.
Be sure to invest in a bottle of blue Loctite though.


Your flail mowers cutting height is set too high which is part
if not all of the problem.

The safety valve for your flail is the flail mowers V-belts.
If your burn up a set of belts you have protected your flail mower.

Just keep in mind that you know own an excellent PTO powered implement
that would cost you almost $10,000.00 today and once you have it repaired
it will outlast your current mule and fit on the next one if you increase to
a larger horsepower mule.

 

[Kodiak45]

Too high? I mow my yard at around 4-5" (tall fescue)!! What does everyone normally set their flail at? Lower than that scares me due to dulling blades from uneven terrain and also rocks and stuff hiding in the pasture. I should have tried it lower just to see, but I would have thought that it still would have cut. But I do know what you mean about having a mower set too high in tall grass and not cutting good, but it would have cut fine if the grass was shorter due to the "laying down effect" and maybe that's what happened here as you said. This would definitely be a problem when mowing over tire tracks that have already bent the grass over..
Any idea what size bolts I need? I'd rather ask someone with experience than guess. I should have measured it yesterday, but I was worn out, hot, and the ants did a number on me.

 

[IslandTractor]

Even with dull blades the flail should cut that grass. We can see the rotor spinning at idle but I'm wondering if there might be significant belt slippage at cutting speed. Typically that would burn up the belts which you don't report. I'd still check belt tension and wonder if there might be grease or oil on the pulleys.

 

[leonz]

Your mower also has the tapered side slicer knives,(I skipped a heartbeat there).
The back side of the knives which is the unused side will last you a couple of
seasons if not more.

The previous owner used that mower a lot at the higher mower setting judging by the
worn knife edges.

I do not remember the bolt size but a quick call to a John Deere dealer or Flail Master will tell you what you need. just be mindfull of the torch as you can also damage the hanger straps.
flipping the mower over and renting an air chisel would be less work for you.

I will be back in an hour.

 

[Kodiak45]

I saw no smoke or anything on the belt, but with all the grease and oil I was using, that could be a possibility. The tension was good and the belt looked decent considering everything else. After looking on clean cutter's site, couldn't I just cut the shackles and leave the bolts alone and replace the shackle with the clevis/shackle along with a mott pin and cotter? That seems easier than fooling around with nuts and bolts.

 

[KenB2920]

Maybe I missed it but how fast were you driving when cutting?

 

[Kodiak45]

around 3mph.

 

[leonz]

The majority of us use 2 inches in cutting height which is the first hole.

You need to use the john deere mounting straps and hangers otherwise
your going to have problems as this flail mower rotor is designed to
use the mounting straps for the knife hanger D rings.

I want you to succeed not fail my friend.

You are a member of the flailmower nation and
an owner with the best type of all purpose grass
and brush mower in the world.

All you need to do for now put down a good tarp, drain the gearbox, flip the mower over,
use an air chisel to break the nuts and flip the knives over to the opposite side and then
replace the nuts and bolts after you flip the knive pairs over to the good edge.

I am not trying to spend your hard earned money.

If you use a smoke wrench you will need to replace the mounting straps
as the heat will weaken them.

Saying that, having all new hardware and a new knife set will last many many years.

 

[Kodiak45]

The majority of us use 2 inches in cutting height which is the first hole.

You need to use the john deere mounting straps and hangers otherwise
your going to have problems as this flail mower rotor is designed to
use the mounting straps for the knife hanger D rings.

I want you to succeed not fail my friend.

You are a member of the flailmower nation and
an owner with the best type of all purpose grass
and brush mower in the world.

All you need to do for now put down a good tarp, drain the gearbox, flip the mower over,
use an air chisel to break the nuts and flip the knives over to the opposite side and then
replace the nuts and bolts after you flip the knive pairs over to the good edge.

I am not trying to spend your hard earned money.

If you use a smoke wrench you will need to replace the mounting straps
as the heat will weaken them.

Saying that, having all new hardware and a new knife set will last many many years.

That is why I asked, so I don't have to learn the hard way by trying something! You are absolutely correct on the torch heat weakening the straps, as that would be tough to avoid. I am pretty sure I have an air chisel in a kit I bought, but I've never used it. I didn't realize that an air chisel would bust through a bolt/nut. I'll have to give it a shot. That would be much better than using a grinder/cutting wheel as I have been lucky for many years without being hurt by one and being ignorant on the dangers, but after I saw some horrific stories, I tend to shy away from using them unless absolutely necessary.
So the other side of the blades can be used without needing to sharpen them? I didn't realize that style blade was reversible.

 

[leonz]

Yes, you can use the other side of the side slicer knife.

All the side slicer knives stamped and ground today can be
flipped over to use the other edge.

Sadly, these excellent side slicer blades are no longer produced.
I am working on that though.

 

[hunt4570]

So, if you were to cut the clevis, or the bolt.. couldn't you just use a set of bolt cutters? I would think this would be the easy way to do it.As long as you intended to replace clevis'/bolts anyway.

 

[Kodiak45]

I don't think I can get to the bolt with cutters, but if I were going to cut the clevis, that would definitely be the preferred method. From what Leonz said, I should keep the factory clevis and replace the bolts in order for it to work as intended.

 

[leonz]

I don't think I can get to the bolt with cutters, but if I were going to cut the clevis, that would definitely be the preferred method. From what Leonz said, I should keep the factory clevis and replace the bolts in order for it to work as intended.

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Hello mgraham112,

The clevis(knife hanger) is actually a D ring that rides inside the strap for the knife hanger.
if you can break the nuts and bolts off with the chisel.

Saying that, it may be less aggravating to use a nut splitter or 2 of them with 1/2" drive
hand ratchets if you have bait like pizza and beer for a helper.

The reason I suggested rolling it over after you emptied gear box is to eliminate issues
with rust particles in the eyes(been there done that).

 

[KenB2920]

around 3mph.

Well depending on the height of grass and how wet it was, that could be too fast. When I cut taller stuff I don't go faster than 2-2.5mph. That's tall weeds.

If it is thick grass that has any height to it. 8"+ then slower speeds have to be taken.

I don't know the cause of it but I smoke the belt on my ford .....

As for my mott, regardless of HP it can only cut so much at a time.

Think of a grown man vs a baby. Small tractor vs big tractor. A grown man has a huge appetite but can still only fit so much food in his mouth at a time.

 

[Blade Breaker]

Hi,

I am currently using a rotary mower and a side disc mower to mow road ditches and waterways. I get all I can with the rear mower then switch to the disc mower to reach up the ditches in the steep parts. I have been looking for something that would mow behind the tractor like the rotary but also extend out and reach up and down the steep areas so I don't have to keep switching mowers. I found this and it looks like it would work for me. Anyone have any experience with this?


Diamond rear swing flail

Rear Swing Flail Mowers – Diamond Mowers

I did see the highway dept. Mowing with one of these today. The cut quality looked great and he was moving along pretty fast. Doesn't sound like anyone here has owned one so still not so sure about the durability but it says something to see it in service. Leaning towards trying one.

 

[leonz]

I did see the highway dept. Mowing with one of these today.
The cut quality looked great and he was moving along pretty fast.
Doesn't sound like anyone here has owned one so still not so sure
about the durability but it says something to see it in service.
Leaning towards trying one.

==============================================================================

Good evening Blade Breaker,

My flailmower is 35 years old, many ot the flail mower owners here on
the forum have units that are much older.

There are many good used flailmowers available on tractor house
and you may wih to go that route as they are not units used by
municipalities and were trade ins or being sold on consignment.


It all depends on whether you want new or used, how much time you have to mow,
the power your tractor has at the PTO AND whether it is has a hydrostatic transmission
which will rob power if it is much below 30 horse power.

The major issue is what kind of finish do you want and whether or not you will be using it
for heavy brush also which will dictate whether you want a mower with either the scoop knives
that cannot recut clippings to shred them finer, or side slicers which are an excellent dual purpose knive.






.

 

[Blade Breaker]

Thanks for the note but I am looking at the swing flail mower from diamond. The ability to mow behind the tractor and then swing out like a disc mower is what I am looking for. Only this one and another brand that was mentioned earlier can do this that I have found. The diamond looks much heavier duty than the others which are smaller. Diamond offers smooth and rough knives. Smooth would work for long and short grass and leave a nice finish.
Just wondering if anyone has any experience with a swing flail mower from diamond? Sounds more like a commercial grade unit which is what I want. Not buying used just was mentioning that I seen the highway dept using one and it looked good.
Thanks

==============================================================================

Good evening Blade Breaker,

My flailmower is 35 years old, many ot the flail mower owners here on
the forum have units that are much older.

There are many good used flailmowers available on tractor house
and you may wih to go that route as they are not units used by
municipalities and were trade ins or being sold on consignment.


It all depends on whether you want new or used, how much time you have to mow,
the power your tractor has at the PTO AND whether it is has a hydrostatic transmission
which will rob power if it is much below 30 horse power.

The major issue is what kind of finish do you want and whether or not you will be using it
for heavy brush also which will dictate whether you want a mower with either the scoop knives
that cannot recut clippings to shred them finer, or side slicers which are an excellent dual purpose knive.






.