Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,201  
Did you operate the flail mower at the 540 RPM engine speed??

When you buy the new PTO shaft be sure to look up the videos of
how to measure them for the right length if you do not know how
to do it already.

Hopefully the opposing knife edges are in much better shape.

Be sure to purchase a supply of fine threaded nuts and bolts and some
blue loctite to secure them when you flip the side slicers to the opposite edge.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,202  
You are right, even with dull and bent blades the flail will beat the grass into submission. It won't be pretty but it will tear the tops off the grass leaving what might look like a bad haircut.

It would have been a better video if you had lowered the flail down onto its roller so we could see the blade clearance. However, from what I can see in the the video, if you aren't cutting anything then you need to raise the roller or shorten your top link.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,203  
Yes it was at 540pto. It's just odd on how it really didn't cut anything. I think the height is set at about 4 inches. It's one hole from the highest, which I believe is 5 inches. Take a look at these pics. The 2ft tall Johnson grass was only pushed over. I'm going to have to get all new bolts and blades. All the bolts and nuts are rusted on and for the most part stripped. It was hard to tell even what size socket to use. I'm probably going to have to grind or torch them all off. I tried for almost 30 minutes to get just one off so I knew what size and length to replace them with and after fighting the fire ants from the grass from being on my back I decided to give up. I need to go ahead and order some blades so maybe I can cut this weekend. One of the bearings had a little resistance, but it wasn't grinding or anything and I can easily turn it by hand, but i'll probably go ahead and replace both the roller and shaft bearings as time allows. I just wanted to make sure the cutting shaft wasn't warped or bent before I put a bunch of money in this thing.
On another note, what is the overload point on flail mowers, meaning I'm used to seeing a shear pin or slip clutch. I assume it's just belt slippage maybe and a burnt up belt. I know the blades will just pivot back if a rock is hit, but I guess there is no break point between the tractor and gearbox.
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,204  
Yes it was at 540pto. It's just odd on how it really didn't cut anything. I think the height is set at about 4 inches. It's one hole from the highest, which I believe is 5 inches. Take a look at these pics. The 2ft tall Johnson grass was only pushed over. I'm going to have to get all new bolts and blades. All the bolts and nuts are rusted on and for the most part stripped. It was hard to tell even what size socket to use. I'm probably going to have to grind or torch them all off. I tried for almost 30 minutes to get just one off so I knew what size and length to replace them with and after fighting the fire ants from the grass from being on my back I decided to give up. I need to go ahead and order some blades so maybe I can cut this weekend. One of the bearings had a little resistance, but it wasn't grinding or anything and I can easily turn it by hand, but i'll probably go ahead and replace both the roller and shaft bearings as time allows. I just wanted to make sure the cutting shaft wasn't warped or bent before I put a bunch of money in this thing.
On another note, what is the overload point on flail mowers, meaning I'm used to seeing a shear pin or slip clutch. I assume it's just belt slippage maybe and a burnt up belt. I know the blades will just pivot back if a rock is hit, but I guess there is no break point between the tractor and gearbox.

==============================================================================


Sorry to hear about the business with the fire ants,
We have white faced hornets and yellow jackets
as a problem up here.


Check with flailmaster and clean cutter for prices on
side slicer knives and knive hangers.

If you have a Fastenal nut and bolt retailer nearby you might
want to invest in fine threaded grade 8 Allen bolts and nuts
for replacements as the allen bolts which are referred to
as socket head bolts allow you to have more effective
contact to loosen them and reduced skinned knuckles where
you could use a breaker bar to hold the nut while you use a
long Allen wrench to loosen the nut and bolt.
Be sure to invest in a bottle of blue Loctite though.


Your flail mowers cutting height is set too high which is part
if not all of the problem.

The safety valve for your flail is the flail mowers V-belts.
If your burn up a set of belts you have protected your flail mower.

Just keep in mind that you know own an excellent PTO powered implement
that would cost you almost $10,000.00 today and once you have it repaired
it will outlast your current mule and fit on the next one if you increase to
a larger horsepower mule.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,205  
Too high? I mow my yard at around 4-5" (tall fescue)!! What does everyone normally set their flail at? Lower than that scares me due to dulling blades from uneven terrain and also rocks and stuff hiding in the pasture. I should have tried it lower just to see, but I would have thought that it still would have cut. But I do know what you mean about having a mower set too high in tall grass and not cutting good, but it would have cut fine if the grass was shorter due to the "laying down effect" and maybe that's what happened here as you said. This would definitely be a problem when mowing over tire tracks that have already bent the grass over..
Any idea what size bolts I need? I'd rather ask someone with experience than guess. I should have measured it yesterday, but I was worn out, hot, and the ants did a number on me.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,206  
Even with dull blades the flail should cut that grass. We can see the rotor spinning at idle but I'm wondering if there might be significant belt slippage at cutting speed. Typically that would burn up the belts which you don't report. I'd still check belt tension and wonder if there might be grease or oil on the pulleys.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,207  
Your mower also has the tapered side slicer knives,(I skipped a heartbeat there).
The back side of the knives which is the unused side will last you a couple of
seasons if not more.

The previous owner used that mower a lot at the higher mower setting judging by the
worn knife edges.

I do not remember the bolt size but a quick call to a John Deere dealer or Flail Master will tell you what you need. just be mindfull of the torch as you can also damage the hanger straps.
flipping the mower over and renting an air chisel would be less work for you.

I will be back in an hour.
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,208  
I saw no smoke or anything on the belt, but with all the grease and oil I was using, that could be a possibility. The tension was good and the belt looked decent considering everything else. After looking on clean cutter's site, couldn't I just cut the shackles and leave the bolts alone and replace the shackle with the clevis/shackle along with a mott pin and cotter? That seems easier than fooling around with nuts and bolts.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,209  
Maybe I missed it but how fast were you driving when cutting?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,210  
around 3mph.
 
 

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