HYDRAULIC LOGGING WINCH

[Baby Grand]

hi baby grand, i have done what you suggest, obviously the blade anchor is strong than the brakes itself, will post the final picture tomorrow, thanks everybody, also i will give you the exact cable speed later

Can't wait to see pictures of your finished build & get a report on it's performance. You may want to think about adding some sort of recoil fence to your ROPS - I have been thinking about using a section of huricane fence secured with heavy duty tie straps - just in case a cable or hook lets go while you are operating the winch from the seat.

 

[Yoseph]

today i welded a removable fence to protect myself in case somethings go wrong , i tried my blade, it slices the grass and goes deep in soil about 10 inch, when i pulled a 40 feet tree from a 30 degrees down slope, speed is about 20feet/min at idle speed, 30feet/min at 25 percent acceleration, one thing i am sure about is its very powerful winch, the hydraulic motor is a parker 110A series 7.1cinch/rev. low speed high torque, will post a video later, now i need to install a roller winch front of the drum to avoid scraping my cable on sharp drum sides when the pull direction is not straight the drum, i apologize for my poor English it's not my usual language
thanks everybody have a nice week-end

 

[Baby Grand]

Impressive build! I think you are going to be very warm this coming winter. Please keep us updated as you use your winch and tell us more about any modifications you make. Your idea of adding a fairlead is a good one. You have inspired me to try building my own.
-Jim

 

[Ductape]

Anyone seen this guy's videos? He also made a pretty nice set-up.


YouTube - ‪Three Point Hydraulic Winch on a Tractor First Generation‬‏

 

[David Devuono]

Milemarker winches are for vehicle recovery. He would have done a lot better to have his tractor closer to the tree were he would have more cable wraps, and thus more speed. He is like me, playing and trying to convince the wife he is working.

 

[David Devuono]

I made this homemade fairlead when I had the MOG. Start with piece of C channel, grind it to shape, weld in a couple of pieces of angle for the perpendicular rollers. I used steel rod with a outer sleeve. Worked for 8 years.

 

[Yoseph]

i bought one on Ebay, it was simple than building one, there are many big deal, like my hydraulic motor witch cost me $60 rather than $500.

 

[Grandad4]

today i welded a removable fence to protect myself in case somethings go wrong , i tried my blade, it slices the grass and goes deep in soil about 10 inch, when i pulled a 40 feet tree from a 30 degrees down slope, speed is about 20feet/min at idle speed, 30feet/min at 25 percent acceleration, one thing i am sure about is its very powerful winch, the hydraulic motor is a parker 110A series 7.1cinch/rev. low speed high torque, will post a video later, now i need to install a roller winch front of the drum to avoid scraping my cable on sharp drum sides when the pull direction is not straight the drum, i apologize for my poor English it's not my usual language
thanks everybody have a nice week-end

Congratulations! That's some very nice work! I would only offer one suggestion that you try to place your rollers to bring the pulling force down nearer to the height of the lower 3 point arms and away from the top link. It looks to me like your winch will place much of the pulling load on the top link and the top of the tractor differential. While your tractor looks very strong, it would probably be better if the load went more to the lower arms.

Maybe someone with more experience than me will correct me about that, but that would be my only concern. But, again, that is a fine project and I'm sure it will do lots of work for you.

 

[Baby Grand]

Congratulations! That's some very nice work! I would only offer one suggestion that you try to place your rollers to bring the pulling force down nearer to the height of the lower 3 point arms and away from the top link. It looks to me like your winch will place much of the pulling load on the top link and the top of the tractor differential. While your tractor looks very strong, it would probably be better if the load went more to the lower arms.

Maybe someone with more experience than me will correct me about that, but that would be my only concern. But, again, that is a fine project and I'm sure it will do lots of work for you.

I don't have any experience at all, but I agree. You can add 2 snatch block attachment points for fairly cheap, 1 at the top crossmember and 1 at the bottom crossmember. Use the bottom one for any pull where you're at risk tipping the tractor and the top one for skidding, to get the butts up off the ground.

-Jim

 

[dstig1]

Interesting. Nice build. You may want to add something to stop the "blade" from digging all the way to China. A couple arms sticking out (braced) should limit how deep it goes.