HYDRAULIC LOGGING WINCH

[David Devuono]

Lots of numbers being thrown around. I don't know how the pitch and all affects the torque but my simple math skill are like this. 1500 inch\lbs are like 125 ft\lbs from the motor x 8 = about 1000ft\lbs on the drum. So I figure on a 4 inch drum, at radius of 2 inches, you will have 12\2 x 1000 or about 6,000 lbs of pull. So a 1000lb load on the chain and 6,000 on a cable last layer.

My own crawler, I am using 60H chain with 8800lb breaking but only 2:1 gear reduction so about 500ft\lbs of torque on the chain.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Surplus Center - 8000 LB PTO WINCH BASE MOUNT

I followed the above link to the Surplus Center page. If I do the math correctly, the speed the load would be dragged, with this winch, at full 540 PTO speed, is 20 feet per minute (single layer on the drum). Would someone please verify that I did that correctly?
Does this 20 feet per minute sound appropriate, or does it need to be faster? I'd rather not run the tractor at the full 540 all the time just to feel satisfied with the speed. I could put a chain speed increaser on the input to this winch, like speed it up about double, then run the tracot at half or 2/3 rpm. I have 35 pto hp. Thanks!!!!

That winch is rated for 1000rpm max. If you don't have a 1000rpm PTO, a chain or belt speed increaser would be the way to go.

 

[jimgerken]

I called Surplus Center and asked about the winch:
Surplus Center - 8000 LB PTO WINCH BASE MOUNT
It was made in Taiwan.
The "Clutch" is not really a clutch, it will engage only when the input shaft is stationary (i guess that's what a "dog clutch" is). If I understand it correctly, to use it I'd have to have the tractor PTO turned off in order to put the winch in "cable retract" mode. Or, if driving hydraulically, the hyd flow would have to be off.
That seems like a problem. And remember it is also really a bit slow. Even if putting a doubling chain system on the front of it, when running the tractor at 2/3 throttle, the dragging speed is less than half a foot per second (29 feet a minute).

 

[Cord]

Honestly, I don't know you have enough motor. 13 fpm is painfully slow. Braden's site has some motor sizes listed for their hydraulic winches. I used their size for my 20,000lb winch and it's perfectly sized. Unloaded, I believe I have 30fpm, which is still very slow.

PACCAR Winch Division - Braden

Be sure to build a super strong frame which includes a plow. You must be able to anchor the winch because the tractor's brakes won't be able to hold it. Also, consider how the forces are being applied to the 3pt hitch. More than one top link has been ripped right off the transmission. No bull! When those links rip off you are looking at gears, so it's not a cheap fix.

 

[Yoseph]

here are my last picture i finished my winch yesterday, i thank Baby Grand for his precious advice, a doubled the last stage transmission as you said:thumbsup:, now i have to add an anchor, pull is too strong, my brake are not good, i added a sliding jaw coupling to be able to unwrap the cable without to reverse the motor rotation, thanks everybody, will be glad to read your comments

 

[Baby Grand]

Looks great!
Three suggestions:
1) weld up a guard to protect your hyd motor & hoses so they don't get dinged or fouled in roadside brush/stumps/rocks.
2) add two snatch blocks - one at the top cross member and one at the bottom to give yo the ability to pull from the top and the bottom.
3) weld a plate onto the the bottom crossmember and brace it with gussets to make a blade so it bites into the soil when you pull hard with it. Should work better than the brakes.
-Jim

 

[jimgerken]

Looks good, and tough too! What is the final winching speed (log dragging speed), assuming 2/3 or so tractor engine rpm?

 

[Farmerford]

Nice job, Yosef.

 

[Yoseph]

hi baby grand, i have done what you suggest, obviously the blade anchor is strong than the brakes itself, will post the final picture tomorrow, thanks everybody, also i will give you the exact cable speed later

 

[davygp38]

Very nice,can't wait to see the brace blade.

 

[Baby Grand]

hi baby grand, i have done what you suggest, obviously the blade anchor is strong than the brakes itself, will post the final picture tomorrow, thanks everybody, also i will give you the exact cable speed later

Can't wait to see pictures of your finished build & get a report on it's performance. You may want to think about adding some sort of recoil fence to your ROPS - I have been thinking about using a section of huricane fence secured with heavy duty tie straps - just in case a cable or hook lets go while you are operating the winch from the seat.

 

[Yoseph]

today i welded a removable fence to protect myself in case somethings go wrong , i tried my blade, it slices the grass and goes deep in soil about 10 inch, when i pulled a 40 feet tree from a 30 degrees down slope, speed is about 20feet/min at idle speed, 30feet/min at 25 percent acceleration, one thing i am sure about is its very powerful winch, the hydraulic motor is a parker 110A series 7.1cinch/rev. low speed high torque, will post a video later, now i need to install a roller winch front of the drum to avoid scraping my cable on sharp drum sides when the pull direction is not straight the drum, i apologize for my poor English it's not my usual language
thanks everybody have a nice week-end

 

[Baby Grand]

Impressive build! I think you are going to be very warm this coming winter. Please keep us updated as you use your winch and tell us more about any modifications you make. Your idea of adding a fairlead is a good one. You have inspired me to try building my own.
-Jim

 

[Ductape]

Anyone seen this guy's videos? He also made a pretty nice set-up.


YouTube - ‪Three Point Hydraulic Winch on a Tractor First Generation‬‏

 

[David Devuono]

Milemarker winches are for vehicle recovery. He would have done a lot better to have his tractor closer to the tree were he would have more cable wraps, and thus more speed. He is like me, playing and trying to convince the wife he is working.

 

[David Devuono]

I made this homemade fairlead when I had the MOG. Start with piece of C channel, grind it to shape, weld in a couple of pieces of angle for the perpendicular rollers. I used steel rod with a outer sleeve. Worked for 8 years.

 

[Yoseph]

i bought one on Ebay, it was simple than building one, there are many big deal, like my hydraulic motor witch cost me $60 rather than $500.

 

[Grandad4]

today i welded a removable fence to protect myself in case somethings go wrong , i tried my blade, it slices the grass and goes deep in soil about 10 inch, when i pulled a 40 feet tree from a 30 degrees down slope, speed is about 20feet/min at idle speed, 30feet/min at 25 percent acceleration, one thing i am sure about is its very powerful winch, the hydraulic motor is a parker 110A series 7.1cinch/rev. low speed high torque, will post a video later, now i need to install a roller winch front of the drum to avoid scraping my cable on sharp drum sides when the pull direction is not straight the drum, i apologize for my poor English it's not my usual language
thanks everybody have a nice week-end

Congratulations! That's some very nice work! I would only offer one suggestion that you try to place your rollers to bring the pulling force down nearer to the height of the lower 3 point arms and away from the top link. It looks to me like your winch will place much of the pulling load on the top link and the top of the tractor differential. While your tractor looks very strong, it would probably be better if the load went more to the lower arms.

Maybe someone with more experience than me will correct me about that, but that would be my only concern. But, again, that is a fine project and I'm sure it will do lots of work for you.

 

[Baby Grand]

Congratulations! That's some very nice work! I would only offer one suggestion that you try to place your rollers to bring the pulling force down nearer to the height of the lower 3 point arms and away from the top link. It looks to me like your winch will place much of the pulling load on the top link and the top of the tractor differential. While your tractor looks very strong, it would probably be better if the load went more to the lower arms.

Maybe someone with more experience than me will correct me about that, but that would be my only concern. But, again, that is a fine project and I'm sure it will do lots of work for you.

I don't have any experience at all, but I agree. You can add 2 snatch block attachment points for fairly cheap, 1 at the top crossmember and 1 at the bottom crossmember. Use the bottom one for any pull where you're at risk tipping the tractor and the top one for skidding, to get the butts up off the ground.

-Jim

 

[dstig1]

Interesting. Nice build. You may want to add something to stop the "blade" from digging all the way to China. A couple arms sticking out (braced) should limit how deep it goes.