Electrical / romex mess

[nickfank]

The issue with romex in conduit is that it heats up too much at its maximum amperage due to two layers of plastic. If you're not near the limit on current, I wouldn't fret about putting conduit around it for a short distance & sealing the ends where it goes into the conduit with gobs of silicone. (But if you sue me when the water in your fountain catches on fire, I'll point out that I'm not pretending to be an expert, just a fellow cheapskate. The "safe" solution is always to hire an electrician, but...)

 

[MossRoad]

I never saw anyone post anything that said this. Certainly not me.

I think someone might interpret post #56 incorrectly.

 

[MossRoad]

You know, a simple schematic would help a lot of people do a better job of criticizing you.

 

[plowhog]

You know, a simple schematic would help a lot of people do a better job of criticizing you.

Or post incomplete vague descriptions -- slowly playing out important details but retracting a few as well. Then have the content sent out in an email blast to lure back long-dormant participants.

Sounds like a plan!!

 

[MossRoad]

This made my afternoon. Thanks.

Good luck with your project.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

This is one of those threads you need a big bowl of popcorn for, sit back and watch.

 

[grsthegreat]

I’m waiting for something being added that points to a government coverup.

 

[Deke80]

Late to the party, but an electrician here. Just wanting to clarify that you CAN run Romex (type NM-B) in conduit.

NM, NMC, and NMS are covered in article 334 of the NEC. In fact in 334.15(B) the code specifically recommends rigid, intermediate, EMT, or PVC for protection from physical damage which is required when exposed.

Wires overheating from crowding isn't unique to type NM wires. Any wires pulled in conduit have to have to comply with the listed wire fill capicity for the given conduit type and size. NM wires having more insulation then say type THHN will fill a conduit more quickly, thus fewer actual conductors are allowed in a given pipe size. (Hope that makes sense)

Annex C in the NEC has tons of charts giving the listed fill capicity of the given type of conduit for the given size and type of wire. The actual rule that the charts are based off is that the combined cross sectional area of all conducts (plus insulation) in a conduit cannot exceed 40% the cross sectional area of interior of the conduit for any conduit over 30 inches.

What you CAN'T do is pull NM underground in conduit. The inside of underground conduit is considered a "wet location." (Warm air will cause condensation build up when it enters the pipe and sinks to the lower/cooler sections.). 334.10(A) states type NM is allowed only in "normally dry locations."

And all the "that's not UF" crowd made me cringe a bit.

 

[dennis morgan]

We have a light on a pole in our driveway. Its in a center circle bordered by pavers. I want to replace the light with a water feature.

I turned power off, removed the light and pole, and found two romex lines. One was still hot (don't ask!) They are about 2 feet below current grade, and about 3 feet below what the new grade will be.

I need to move these lines as the new water feature would be sitting right on top of them. I wish they were long enough to get to an electrical box on the edge of the circle, but they are not nearly long enough. And I still need power out there for the new pump.

I know you are not supposed to put romex in conduit. Nor splice wires and have electric junction boxes underground. But I'm stumped on what else to do?

Any ideas?
View attachment 701068

use gray electrical conduit, it is approved by electrical codes. you can use crimp connectors to splice the wire. the romex will be ok in the gray conduit. the other wire that goes where??? maybe a well pump. if you know it is hot turn one breaker at a time off until you find it. you can buy a cheap no touch electrical detector at home depot, lowes and other places for around $10.00
good luck

 

[Diggin It]

use ...

Did you READ the thread before posting?

 

[plowhog]

the other wire that goes where??? maybe a well pump.

The other wire powers a laser cutter:

Wayne Trail » Flex Cut I Laser Cutting System

www.waynetrail.com

The laser points at a 36-inch mirrored disco ball above my driveway. Once a week, the laser fires and the disco ball spins one revolution. The mirrors on the ball are precision aimed so that when the laser light bounces it precisely trims all my hedges and cuts the lawn uniformly to 1/100 of an inch.

I just hope the UF cable on the 15a breaker can deliver the power needed!!!!

 

[cbcbass]

If that is direct bury uf cable, and not romex, you can dig backwards both directions and use accessible junction box . Place 1 j box at both ends. No problem using underground rated weatherproof wirenuts. Totally legal. Now if the wire is plain old house romex...THATS ANOTHER ISSUE.

I agree. It appears to be UF by the color. Easy to put above ground or surface of ground J-box on both ends to take care of the wire going straight through. Then use the light wire for the new pump. You may be able to read the writing on the cable to determine if it is UF.

 

[Diggin It]

I agree.

You didn't read the rest of the thread, did you?


I move all the reply and quote buttons be removed from all but the last page of a thread.

 

[cbcbass]

I checked and there are no markings on the romex. Looks like black #12, white#12, ground in center, no paper. The ground is enveloped in its own plastic sheath just like the other leads are. (I.e. not "loose" in the center.)

That appears to be UF when all three wires are surrounded by insulation.

 

[Midniteoyl]

 

[grsthegreat]

The other wire powers a laser cutter:

Wayne Trail » Flex Cut I Laser Cutting System

www.waynetrail.com

The laser points at a 36-inch mirrored disco ball above my driveway. Once a week, the laser fires and the disco ball spins one revolution. The mirrors on the ball are precision aimed so that when the laser light bounces it precisely trims all my hedges and cuts the lawn uniformly to 1/100 of an inch.

I just hope the UF cable on the 15a breaker can deliver the power needed!!!!

i want one of those.......ill sell the huskvarna lawn mower to pay for it

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Just tie it together. Wrap a gallon zip lock bag around it. Tie the ends of bag. Insert tip of tube of silicone in one end and pump it full. You can move bag around until wire is centered. Leave it alone to cure out. Youre welcome.

 

[CoyPatton]

No on the hot run it will continue to act as a neutral. But on the switched run 1 wire (black or white) depending on how it was connected will be the switch power side. Then the other wire will become energized with power when the switch is turned to the on position. The power run should remain as a white neutral unless it get crossed up. This is the common problem with that process. But it can work fine as long as it is understood what was done. If it were mine and done this way, the white wire would have red tape on it everywhere it is exposed.

 

[CoyPatton]

View attachment 701118

Gray UF on right

Yes, but not very many years ago all wire was in that off white color exterior sheathing 14 ga, 12 ga, 10 ga, UF. You name it, it was all that color.

 

[HarryMonkey]

Hope this isn't too arrogant-sounding, not my intention. I can't help but reply that I would never use one of the cheap no-touch detectors to prove a circuit dead. Used to prove it hot, OK. I confess I'm spooky enough to test my multimeter or Wiggins on a known hot circuit before I do a potentially hazardous circuit.