Chainsaw Sharpener Advice

[TJP89]

OK, this spring I decided to start cutting,splitting, and stacking all my firewood myself. Very quickly it became apparent that the Husqvarna 350, which had been great for small cutting and trimming, wasn't going to cut it (pun intended). So I bought a Stihl MS362cm with a 20" bar and tried it out. It works beautifully. But after a few weeks, I realized that the unguided file I was using to sharpen both saws wasn't working out that great, and performance was hugely degraded. So I looked and asked around, and discovered that an unguided file isn't the best way. So, now I have two types of sharpener I'm looking at, and would like y'alls advice on which one to get.

The first type is a gizmo that attaches to the bar, and guides the file, I guess the thinking is the angle is much more exact than freehand. Example below
Amazon.com : Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B [Lawn & Patio] : Oregon Chainsaw Sharpener : Patio, Lawn & Garden

The 2nd is a powered one, where the chain has to come off the bar. I assume on this that the angle can be set as well. My worry on this is that it's too easy to take to much off, thus ruining the chain. Example below.
Amazon.com: Buffalo Tools ECSS Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: Home Improvement

The instructions aren't real helpful, and youtube seems to have failed me here. My questions are, how exactly do either of these work, and is one better than the other. All advice appreciated.

(Not sure this is the best place to post this, I think a chainsaw subforum would be a great addition)

 

[RandyT]

I would stay away from the electric sharpening, due to just as much as screwing up the chain worse than it is now. the electric sharpening will require you to set the angle, how much to take off, and reshaping the wheel as it wears. the manual file holder types sharpeners work well but are not as fast as an electric sharpener.

 

[yankeerider]

There is a chainsaw sub-forum, in the Related Equipment...Lawn and Garden forum.

I've been using the Granberg File 'N Joint that you linked to for many years now. It works great for me! Simply set the angles, do about 4 strokes per cutter, turn around, and repeat for the other-handed cutters.

 

[Ford850]

I hand file mine most of the time, and then occasionally take the chains to a shop to get them 'evened up'. I find that if I file them after a couple tanks, I can keep them within 90% if the saw shop's sharpening performance. In other words, a new chain rated as a 10, after becoming somewhat dull would be rated at a 5 or 6. After a hand file consisting of 4 even file strokes on each tooth, I am back up to a 9. This saves me time and money.
Also, be sure to file the rakers. The gauges for that are cheap.
The electric sharpeners get great reviews, but I'd rather keep mine touched up more often and not have to remove chains to do it.

 

[Mysfyt]

Want to follow this post. Always interested if there is a better way.

 

[gsganzer]

I bought one of these and have been really happy with it. It's also had great reviews.

Timberline sharpener

I posted a thread about it a while back. here it is

 

[PHPaul]

I used a bar-mounted file guide for years, and hand filed 3-4 times before "cleaning up" with the bar-mounted guide.

After paying a ridiculous fee (I could have bought new chain for about the same price) and waiting 10 days at a saw shop to have it "professionally" sharpened, I bought one of these.

I've never looked back.

 

[square1]

I've said it before and it bears repeating. You need an old man to slap you upside the head if you hand him anything less than a sharp saw. You'll learn very quickly how to freehand sharp cutters every time

 

[farmer2009]

I hand sharpen my chains. But if I hit something like a nail in a tree then dad has an electric harbor freight sharpener that I'll use. I will touch up the chain every time I stop for gas and oil. Maybe all you need to do is knock down your rakes and your hand filing will be fine.

 

[Deere Dude]

I used a bar-mounted file guide for years, and hand filed 3-4 times before "cleaning up" with the bar-mounted guide.

After paying a ridiculous fee (I could have bought new chain for about the same price) and waiting 10 days at a saw shop to have it "professionally" sharpened, I bought one of these.

I've never looked back.

I bought one of these and I think they are nice. Next for me would have been an Oregon electric sharpener.

I have 4 or 5 chains and when I use them I change them, then sit down some day and sharpen and oil them all. Works for me. I had a Harbor Freight 30$ one and it didn't seem to grind decently. The Timber Tuff is sturdy.

Some have told me to just hand sharpen them, but if that was the best way then the shops would just sell their professional sharpeners and so it by hand. Electric for me any day to get all the cutters nice.

 

[murphy1244]

I hand sharpen when out in the woods but I also carry 3 spare chains with me. When I get back to the shop I will collect chains till I amassed a bunch and sit down and sharpen them on my Oregon electric sharpener. The Harbor freight piece of junk will not repeat at all.

 

[rrrkkk]

I bought one of these and have been really happy with it. It's also had great reviews.

Timberline sharpener

I posted a thread about it a while back. here it is

One word of caution when using this sharpener you need to wear gloves, the carbide cutter bit will produce very sharp (shards) or needles from the cutters and they are like splinters. This is the best sharpener I have outside of my electric it can be used anywhere. Drawback you will need different size cutters for different size chain. This used to be called a "GAMM" sharpener.
s

 

[PHPaul]

I bought one of these and I think they are nice. Next for me would have been an Oregon electric sharpener.

I think it's a great compromise between the cheapo Horror Fright unit and the top end Oregon. I just couldn't justify nearly $400 when I cut maybe 4 cords of tree length firewood a year in my back yard. If I was in the woods, or cutting 30 cord a year, it'd be different.

 

[Rustyiron]

I bought one of these and have been really happy with it. It's also had great reviews.

Timberline sharpener

Fast & accurate, and very easy! A quick 5 minute "touch up" - while the chain is still on the saw- keeps the chips flying!

 

[Buggs67]

FWIW

I have a sharpening jig and it works well. It's fast and accurate. In between doing a full re-sharpen I do touch-ups with a file guide. It's good in the field when you just need to get a little sharper or fix a ding.

OREGON brand assembled file guides for sharpening chain saw chain

And every so often (not so much now) I'll use a Pro to get all links back to standard.

 

[Piston]

I bought one of these and have been really happy with it. It's also had great reviews. Timberline sharpener I posted a thread about it a while back. here it is

I can't say enough about my Timberline Sharpener. I've used many different styles and after using the Timberline I won't go back.

I only wish it had a way to file the depth gauges, I use the Carlton file o plate but that doesn't work on my full skip chains.

I actually bought a second one in case they go out of business and I somehow lost one.

 

[SARG]

For the last decade I've used a dremel tool with the stone made for chainsaw blades. Quick & easy on the saw.

 

[byronlj]

I agree with Sarg. I have been using this and a 12v model (in the field) for the last 30 years.
Dave

 

[Carhartt Cowboy]

Well, I got nothing to add but a great big thank you! I have been looking for a nicer sharpener for a while now. Got a new Husky 460 this year, first new chain saw in 30 years. Finally retired the old homelite super XL.

This Timerberline ya'll speak of fits the bill perfectly. Like many I have always sharpened knives and chains by hand. Using a guide is no less manly and results are greatly improved. Plus I have an affinity for machined devices. This appears to be finely made device that still allows for working something by hand. Hope the inventor becomes rich off it.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I hand sharpen my chains. But if I hit something like a nail in a tree then dad has an electric harbor freight sharpener that I'll use. I will touch up the chain every time I stop for gas and oil. Maybe all you need to do is knock down your rakes and your hand filing will be fine.

Back when I cut wood for the stove this is what I did. Actually at the time we did not have access to an electric sharpener. We just kept hand filing the chains. I found out real quick the small amount of time touching up the chain was well worth it. Last year I bought one of those "value priced" Harbor Freight electric sharpeners. The few times I have used it it has done fine. If I was cutting a lot I would have invested in a more heavy duty unit.