Chain fabrication help

[Cord]

I've built chains in the past and have modified several sets as well. Generally it's been hard to find affordable 3/8" link chains for 10x16 and 12x16 tires so I've taken to buying tractor chains and then modifying them to fit.

Generally when I make tire chains I don't use a tape measure. There is enough error in the link spacing and tire shape that the chains can be very hard to accurately measure. Instead, I'll dismount the tire and then drape the chains across the tread to determine what the cross chain length should be. Don't forget to allow for the side clips. I then flip the tire on it's side and do my best to mock up the side chain. The side chain need to be set far enough down the sidewall so the chains can't twist around sideways. This can be tricky because of the take-up mechanism so I will add 6-8 links to the calculated ideal length. I'd prefer to throw away a couple of waste links instead of throwing away several feet of chain because I cut it too short. It's much easier to install chains and keep them tight if you put adjusters on both the inside and the outside of the tire.

The job will require a set of tire chain plyers. I can't see how you'd do it without them.

As to installing, I've found the best way to install chains is with the tires up in the air. You can now slide the chains around and actually get them to fit the tire. It's not the only way, it's just the way that seem to work best for me. As for tensioning, I use several bungee cords positioned across the tire to keep the chains tight. I don't bother with cords on the inside because clearances are often too tight. I tried a set of spring adjusters and they seem to be lasting better than the bungie cords. Didn't care for the chain system that was used to set the spring tension, but unrefined in my opinion. After running the chains for a little while I'll go back and set the adjusters one link shorter. After the second tensioning they seem to run out just fine for the rest of the season.

 

[powerscol]

Why not just put chains on the FRONT tires,,, forget the back tires,,,

I have them for the front, but on ice and cross slope the back slides down. I use my big box blade as a counter weight or the tiller which is heavier.

kco - thank for the tips. I plan to go old school and tape a rope around the tire for the side chain length, and again across the top for a total cross length including the hooks. The center section is extra long, so I should be able to fit up a full pattern and no gaps. I have snaps and swivel D rings to adjust. I also bough a good set of chain tensioners to keep things snug. I used to do a lot of off roading in the Colorado high country and had a set of logging truck chains just in case. To get them on I used a cross link through the wheel and spun them in place. Sometimes that is all I needed to get out of the hole. Unfortunately the hub on the Bobcat is solid, but there may be a way to get baling wire to hook into the lugs.

I played around with the set today, and the only question I came up with is presetting the H pattern out to get the side chains set. I think I have it figured out, but tomorrow I will clean up the tractor (caked with mud) and drape them over the tire for a final check on width and H pattern set up for length.

leonz - I learned a long time ago from my grandmother, that if you never try something in life, you will never know if you can do it or like it, and if you fail, pick you britches up off the ground and try again. She lived to be 102 and went around the world with the Peace Corps, Vista, and on her own. During the late 70s she was in Russia (without a visa), teaching a Russian General English during a port of call. General was a friend of the Portuguese tramp steamer Captain she was traveling on teaching the crew English for her passage. She spent a year with them going around the world. She was never wrong in her advice. She said it only took gray hair and a smile to go anywhere in the world and she did it. Be safe my friend.

In my case I have the smile, but only half the gray hair. I am a bit shiny upstairs, thanks to my grandpa on the other side of the family.

I should get to it by the end of the week and will take pictures, may not be the best, but could make folks laugh.

 

[powerscol]

Well I started on the measurements today using the rope and tape method. I did not stretch the rope out, just snug, I will add a few links from this dimension as a start. I measured the center circumference and the length for the side chain. I also used the rope to measure across for width. I will need to adjust it for the side chain dimension. I have enough lug above the chosen location to hold them in place using chain tensioners.


The reason I am high on the sidewall at the base of the lugs is due to a clearance problem. I only have 3" free.

Next the layout and fabrication.

Thoughts and observations are welcome

 

[Cord]

If you're gonna run them that high, you'd better plan on keeping some bungies on them. If you don't, the chains will twist around sideways.

 

[powerscol]

If you're gonna run them that high, you'd better plan on keeping some bungies on them. If you don't, the chains will twist around sideways.

I have a heavy duty set of spring tensioners like this Adjusters Tensioners for Tire Chains the extra large set, so hopefully I will be good. I also got the tool to do them correctly.

I have marked up the cuts needed, but before I do I plan to jack up a rear tire and drape the set over and assemble on the tire for the first fitting. Should be fun. I have lots of baling wire to tie things together for a start

 

[powerscol]

I am attaching photos of the test fit. It appears got the exact length needed, no extra, unless I did something wrong. I used a clevis on the inside instead of the cam lever tighter thought on this? Took up less room, but I may get a slightly bigger one for strength.

For width I used 3 links each side. If I go less I think I will end up short in the center. I may try 2 on the inside and 3 side links to the clip on the outside before I do any final cutting. I ended up with every 8th link for the side connections. I do have spring tensioners for the outside. Ant thoughts from the experts here. In this configuration it is snug at the center, but not tight I could just get the c-clips in the last H pattern using the lever ratchet. I will be setting the roll pin during the final install To install I draped over and connected the end to the tire using duct tape, then rolled forward, centering as I went. I did do a short test drive and everything stayed put so with the tensioners I should be good. It appear I still have good clearance with them setting at is.

Would appreciate feed back before I starting cutting and crimping.

 

[CADplans]

Do you have fluid in the tires,, or can you do the deflate-inflate thing to tighten the chains??

 

[Cord]

I think the easiest way to install chains is with the wheel in the air. Allows you to tug at the chain and work the slack around the tire. I've never used a tensioner to take the slack out. Personally, having a adjuster on the inside and the outside has worked the best. That and some bungies on the outside to help keep them tight.

I run wheel spacers on my skidsteer and havn't had a single problem with them. Trust, me I've loaded that machine and a skidsteer has a significantly higher side load than what you'll see with any tractor. The steel spacers would be stronger than the aluminum ones so go with the steel spacers if you any concerns.

As for making chains, this really isn't hard to do. Just time consuming. Layout your cross chains, put the end links on and then layout the side chains. Make sure the chains are laid out correctly and start bending the side links closed. Every time you bend the side link you'll move the chain so there is no reason to lay out the whole chain at once. Just do one cross link at a time. Once you get all the cross links attached to the side chains, put your adjusters on and then drape the assembly over the tire. Now you can determine the final length of the side chains.

 

[PILOON]

For chain tensioners I simply cut up an inner tube and make big elastics and add 2 "S" hooks, Usually I install 3 on outer side of the wheel and some times 2 on the inside.
Sure prevents that 'clang clang' when driving around.

 

[powerscol]

Tires are filled so lowering the air and refiling is out. Wheel spacers are not recommended for this tractor and I have some implements that just clear the tire now. From what I can tell I have good clearance as is. Tomorrow I will try and narrow the fit to get them to ride a bit higher on the side wall. Ill take up one more side link. I still want to connect the last H pattern when all is said and done. Today I learned to do that first before tightening the side chains. It worked, but is probably backwards from the instructions I have found online. For connecting the H pattern, is there a better method than what I am using?

Thanks