Cattle handling pen on a budget

[RedRock]

So I need to get a cattle pen built for my new heifer to get her caught up on vaccinations, etc. I have a pretty simple design I'll be using that will include standard cattle panels, wood posts and Tposts. This will be a first for me so I'm learning as I go. I have a few questions that come to mind. 1 - when attaching the 5x16 mesh panels to a wood post in the corner, what's the best way to secure them in a corner? On the side runs I'll have the panels inside the posts so that pressure from the inside won't remove the staples and animal weight presses against the posts.

2 - for my sweep gate, is there a special way to mount it(to wood), or should I us a small diameter steel post to allow for as full of a gate swing as possible?

 

[creekbend]

Hopefully this will be of some assistance? www.fao.org/docrep/003/x6909e/x6909e07.htm

 

[foreman Etexas]

 

[RedRock]

I'll take those edits under consideration Etex, this is going to be backed into a corner of an existing fence so I can't use the top gate. I also found a double hinged gate setup that might work for the sweep gate. Thanks!

 

[cmyoung2]

For the swing gate I would use a 3-4" pipe as the gate post, then use the next size up that will slip over that pipe for the hinges. You get 360 rotation, and if you set the post deep enough-4'- It shoudn't move.
Make the gate strong, a normal gate or corral panel will bend. I would also but wood planks behind the 16' welded wire panels, maybe three boards-top bottom and middle. I love those panels, but cattle being pressured will bend them and pull out what ever you use to fasten them. I understand budgets, but if a cow is going to have a chance to push it, forget t posts and use wood. Heifer might not look big, might be tame, might never cause any problems---but---plan a little stouter. If you think it will hold a ton of bull, it might, just might be strong enough for a cow, and if you build it strong it's a one time thing and nobody gets hurt. If you don't, then you have to tear down, rebuild, and pay a vet/dr. bill.
Midwest plans has a good beef construction guide, used it for many years working with producers. MWPS: MidWest Plan Service, A Foundation of Knowledge for Agriculture

 

[nwngunner]

I am currently building a yard to house my bull. Having built a barn yard several times i have learned think its strong enough make it stronger. The yard i am building now is rail road tie on 8 foot centers. Green treat 2x6 just about knee high and at the top.

 

[RedRock]

thanks, cmyoung, that swing gate suggestion sounds pretty solid, I had also found something similar here CANADA PLAN SERVICE: plan 1812 (but I'd rather just attach a metal gate rather than build one like the pic) I had planned to concrete in posts at corners and 16' panel joining spots, but posts at every 8' are probably better.

 

[cmyoung2]

thanks, cmyoung, that swing gate suggestion sounds pretty solid, I had also found something similar here CANADA PLAN SERVICE: plan 1812 (but I'd rather just attach a metal gate rather than build one like the pic) I had planned to concrete in posts at corners and 16' panel joining spots, but posts at every 8' are probably better.

In the corner where the crowd gate will be, I would really consider putting the posts 4' OC, 8' everywhere else. It is really amazing how much pressure a cow can generate.
I saw one fairly heavy duty farm gate, mounted on a 8" wood post with regular gate type hinges, being used as a crowd gate. There were no stops/posts to stop the gate, a heifer took it all the way a round the post, also taking out the welded wire panels that were the corral. She actually took the gate 2 x 360. 12' gate ended up as a 4' circle. That guy now believes in building right and stout the first time. Nobody got hurt, so it was sort of funny, but it wasn't my gate

 

[cmyoung2]

That Canadain gate was what I had in mind. If you get a real heavy duty pipe gate, not too long- 8-10' and weld it to the hinges, should work well. If you can work with a 8' gate, 1" plywood braced with 2x6 may also work

 

[crowbar032]

I don't know how much time you have and what you have access too, but I will try to describe what I saw an old timer do many years ago. He had access to a large amount of 2-4 inch tree saplings (type doesn't matter much.) He set 2 good locust fence posts about 4 inches apart at 8 ft intervals to make the size pen he wanted. He then stacked up the saplings inbetween the posts making sure they overlapped into the next set of posts by 6-8 inches, almost like a split rail fence. Over the years as the bottom sapling started to rot, he just put a new one on top and let it sink down. He did splurge and buy bull gates for the entrances. It was a lot of upfront work and it looked like ****, but it was cheap and nothing ever kicked or pushed its way out of it that I was aware of.

 

[JoeinTX]

Sandusky, for one heifer you can probably get away with what tou describe above.

We work a lot of cows every year and we have several rules for it:

#1-No wood. Everything is metal. Everything is stronger this way. We have three sets of working pens and they are all all metal. Even that doesn't prevent cows breaking welds, bending metal, and general mayhem.

#2-Cattle are herded just like water flows. They take the path of least resistance but can always, reliably, find themselves in places you wouldn't expect. In particular I reference your 10' gate on the entry to the squeeze. Will you have a helper to make up you operating the gate as well as herding her in? Cows will do this kind of thing.

#3-A cow can do anything at anytime for any reason. They may be kickers who take out a knee or they may be docile under pressure. Ya never know and it can vary from the time you work them.

 

[RedRock]

Thanks for all the great advice... I'm taking it all into consideration and have decided to go with concrete set pipe on 8' centers. My neighbor said he'd give me some welding lessons to get me started. I can get used 2 3/8 inch pipe for .99 foot with a 2 inch top rail for .89 per foot. I've always wanted to learn to weld and I'm sure the skill will come in real handy for future projects. I can wire tie the cattle panels to the posts until it gets a bit cooler to weld. I'm saving my nickels for a used head gate or squeeze chute. I plan to have up to 6 or 8 head at some point.

 

[RedRock]

Pretty much settled on foreman etex's suggesion regarding pen design. Got 26 eight foot 2-3/8" steel poles set in 2-1/2' concrete laid out 32' x 48' .... 2 - 12' gates(one for the inside 190 degree sweep). I have 2 10' poles on the west side to expand later with a gate if necessary. Now comes the hard part, headgate, escape gate and overall finishing of the chute area. I'll be catching up on the welding topics now. I'd love to finish it off with lag bolts and 2x6s but I need to learn to weld anyway.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Pretty much settled on foreman etex's suggesion regarding pen design. Got 26 eight foot 2-3/8" steel poles set in 2-1/2' concrete laid out 32' x 48' .... 2 - 12' gates(one for the inside 190 degree sweep). I have 2 10' poles on the west side to expand later with a gate if necessary. Now comes the hard part, headgate, escape gate and overall finishing of the chute area. I'll be catching up on the welding topics now. I'd love to finish it off with lag bolts and 2x6s but I need to learn to weld anyway.View attachment 272534

We picked up some 4in.channel for .86ft,saddled it out to channel, three high and welded the cattle panel to the 4in.side of channel. Another option is to use 1/2 in.sucker rod spaced around a foot apart all the way up. Ours is set up around a foot off the ground,(1st)channel,(2nd)2.5ft to center another channel,(3rd)another 2.5ft center channel, skip a foot top rail 2-3/8 pipe,so total height around 7ft.
Everyone is going to say weld with a 7018,just learning go p5+/6011 or you will stay pissed off sticking your rod:laughing: Auto hood and c-clamps if you dont have a helper...Tac all up then go back and weld out,looks/feels like getting more progress that way

 

[Mud Mechanik]

I will try and snap a few pictures of mine this evening and post them up for ya, +1 on the advice on building it bomb proof, cattle will tear up most anything you think is strong enough to hold. I purchased a Priefert manual head gate and bolted it through 8" treated poles that were 4 feet in the ground, the first time I ran my cows through it my 1600 lb Bull was wearing the big blue head gate as a necklace and just standing there looking at me with that look like " how you gonna get this thing off of me". He sheared 4 bolts that that were 1/2 inch diameter and went through the post with nuts on the back, these animals will surprise you with their strength. It looks like you have a good start on your pen, can't wait to see more.

 

[foreman Etexas]

I will try and snap a few pictures of mine this evening and post them up for ya, +1 on the advice on building it bomb proof, cattle will tear up most anything you think is strong enough to hold. I purchased a Priefert manual head gate and bolted it through 8" treated poles that were 4 feet in the ground, the first time I ran my cows through it my 1600 lb Bull was wearing the big blue head gate as a necklace and just standing there looking at me with that look like " how you gonna get this thing off of me". He sheared 4 bolts that that were 1/2 inch diameter and went through the post with nuts on the back, these animals will surprise you with their strength. It looks like you have a good start on your pen, can't wait to see more.

Great story:thumbsup: But question is how did you get the neckless off:laughing:

 

[Mud Mechanik]

A five gallon bucket of sweet feed held his attention long enough for me to open the gate and let it fall off of his neck.

 

[RedRock]

So I've made steady progress on the pen and ended up with the suggested divided design. See my post in the welding section about finishing up the headgate chute. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/253126-newbie-welding-questions-2.html#post2962488

my chop saw is doing a pretty good job with the saddle cuts, I'll post real pics this weekend.

 

[foreman Etexas]

So I've made steady progress on the pen and ended up with the suggested divided design. See my post in the welding section about finishing up the headgate chute. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/253126-newbie-welding-questions-2.html#post2962488

my chop saw is doing a pretty good job with the saddle cuts, I'll post real pics this weekend.

My suggestion is can you put the head gate back further,what if you miss are you gonna have to try and get them pened up again? See the second pen your talking about has gate in it that opens into shoot that way if missed it will only be able to run into the second pen and not out into pasture,then just have to run them back into first pen,only reason cows go out end of shoot is if loading into trailer. We can run the ones already worked back around and force the ones that havent been up so they are not trying to turn around or back up,when done we let them set in pen alittle while to keep an eye on them,we have had a few that it has stress out pretty good and its nice to have them right there if need to doctor them. Just my two cent ideas

 

[saltbranch]

Hereis a design I used a few weekends ago. Helped an old family friend work cattle and first time I had seen this setup. Its good for a smaller operation. Just throwing it out there