Bridge repair

/ Bridge repair #11  
If the steel is good you could use 6x6 treated across the creek and 4x6 treated lumber laying on edge , pricey but it would be pretty strong
 
/ Bridge repair #12  
A long term solution would be to use reinforced concrete. The steel is there so add additional shurring to support the forms for the concrete. Add allot of re-bar and tie it off. Also you could extent the deck at each end.
After it sets remove forms and dress the sides in wood to look more rustic.
Another though would be to pre cast on land then slide/ pull it over.
Phil
 
/ Bridge repair #13  
You can still buy CCA treated southern yellow pine in sizes up to at least 10"x10" and pilings. The marine grade (2.5lb/cf) will outlast you. Look for a lumber yard on the coast that sells to dockbuilders and bulkheaders. Forget about the big box stores. They'll tell you the EPA banned the stuff. Not so.
 
/ Bridge repair
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I've already investigated using cement, there was some surplus mall roofing laying around near by but the individual sections were too narrow. The existing bridge has only two steel members that are spaced about 6ft apart, I'll measure tomorrow or Friday and report back. I'll also go to the county next and maybe even talk to their engineer to get exact requirements.

You've provided many great ideas guys, keep them coming.

Thank you!!
 
/ Bridge repair
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Last weekend’s priority was to try and repair my bridge and I’m well on my way. I purchased 10 rough cut pine 4x6x12 footers, from the local lumber yard, to act as the new planks. After tearing into the bridge I discovered that I will have to replace all of the planks so I’ll buy 20 more next weekend and have at it. These are not treated so I’ll lay them over the bridge’s 2 steel I beams, to let dry for a month, before I treat them with the following mixture that was recommended to me by the lumber company I purchased from: 5 gallons of diesel mixed with one gallon of used motor oil. I was told this will do the trick of sealing the wood for 20 years. I’m somewhat skeptical on the 20 year part so what do you experts think? Has anyone around here ever tried this trick? I'd like to believe that after I am done this bridge will be rock-solid. The foundations were made of RR ties, and cement, so the whole structure should last a while.

Here's pics of the progress George/Property projects - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
 
/ Bridge repair #16  
Old timers in my area use to treat the bottom half of fence post with a similar brew. They would normally soak the post in a 55 gal. drum of the mix for several weeks before installing.

MarkV
 
/ Bridge repair #17  
What infrastructure do you forsee with installing a section of box culvert? I don't think he would need headwalls.. but if so they could be simply formed with plywood and staking and poured in place. We've done may bridge replacements for automotive and foot traffic using box culvert sections over the years.

Still.. I would think simply replacing the timber would be cheaper and easier.. etc.

soundguy

crbr said:
I have worked as a Civil Engineer in the past (construction of nuclear power plants), prior to moving into Mechanical Engineering and Industrial Technology (degrees come with it too :) ). No real way to provide resolution through a picture but it certainly looks worthy of repair. And beside that, I look at things in a slightly different manner. The bridge has a certain attraction of character that a new concrete culvert could never duplicate. That said, the culvert would require an entire different excavation and infastructure for installation. Honestly, unless you're bent on doing a culvert, I'd repair that bridge and use it any day. The beams look like their size will accommodate most loads. They appear to be 10" - 14" beams, but again the picture may be misleading to my **** viewing.

All said, my thoughts are opinion based and biased because I like the bridge, just as I do old wooden barns, etc...


I really enjoyed the pics too. :tiphat:
 
/ Bridge repair #18  
gcp said:
: 5 gallons of diesel mixed with one gallon of used motor oil. I was told this will do the trick of sealing the wood for 20 years. I’m somewhat skeptical on the 20 year part so what do you experts think? Here's pics of the progress George/Property projects - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


We put in a bridge when I was a kid and treated the timbers with a diesel/oil mixture. It does preserve the wood, and 20 years may not be an exageration. Just have to be careful when applying and not get any of this in the water, or on the ground as it is not the most environmentally friendly preservative.

Also, this mixture makes for a VERY SLICK surface when it gets wet, so keep that in mind when crossing the bridge after a rain.
 
/ Bridge repair #19  
Don't invite Senator Kennedy over for your retirement party!:D :D
 
/ Bridge repair #20  
There are much better ways to treat the wood vs using hazardous waste.

Copepr napthenate would be my choice for a post dip... That or asphalt based paint that cures to nearly environmentally inert status..

Soundguy

1bush2hog said:
We put in a bridge when I was a kid and treated the timbers with a diesel/oil mixture. It does preserve the wood, and 20 years may not be an exageration. Just have to be careful when applying and not get any of this in the water, or on the ground as it is not the most environmentally friendly preservative.

Also, this mixture makes for a VERY SLICK surface when it gets wet, so keep that in mind when crossing the bridge after a rain.
 

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