Best grapple for brush?

[jjp8182]

this is really helpful. You are saying the longer tines can still do the ground ripping/rooting though?

Yep, just need to tilt them forward/down a bit - which yes, may increase the risk to the curl cylinders a bit since they wouldn't be fully retracted, but it's a tractor and using the FEL for anything more than ripping an inch or two into the ground (and only while driving in a straight line) probably isn't the best use for the FEL. Seeing the loader arms even temporarily flex to the left or right isn't exactly what I'd call a fun experience (though it can be quite memorable) -- which is something that can happen if/when one side hits an underground object that doesn't want to move or the unmovable object is diagonal to the driving path.

Personally I prefer using the rippers on my box blade for dislodging buried roots, some types of stumps (like cedars and other trees with shallow, but wide spreading roots), semi-buried rocks, and overgrown (e.g. >5ft. tall) weeds/vegetation that can be backed over (completely or partially). While taking that box blade approach involves a second implement, the box blade also leverages the tractor's design strengths and provides ballast for loader operations. It also makes for easy windrowing of the roots/vegetation, after which those windrows can be raked/scooped up and hauled off in large volume with the grapple - and by large volume I mean packed in tight enough the grapple lid may not fully close, but is just providing enough clamping pressure to keep the load from spilling. This sort of scooping/hauling is where the L-bottom style can be of greater help since tipping the grapple back can help cradle more of the load.

On a side note: it can actually be an entertaining (yet disturbing) experience to use that method to such effect that the grapple is filled full enough of still green weeds/vegetation to start making the back of the tractor feel light.

The short-tine root rake grapples can also do all of this as well, but they usually don't have that tooth length/angle to help cradle a large/oversized load as much -- though whichever type of grapple is used sufficient ballast will still be needed on the rear.

Can't say that I thought/knew of all of this prior to buying a grapple, but after hitting roots that have brought the tractor to an immediate and total dead stop (on a few different occasions) I'm not sure I'd ever want to use the FEL on a tractor for primary root removal -- unless *perhaps* I absolutely knew what was buried under ground and where any large roots/pipes/rocks were.

Those large buried objects that don't move easily are also a very good reason to keep the working speeds LOW.

 

[check]

LOL - Here’s my grapple, and I actually have 2 of them!

I use them to load up my 5’ x 10’ trailer, and then move it to my burn pile with the hitch ball welded to the FEL of my tractor. And I can control the fire pretty precisely by feeding the sticks and what not in at my own pace. Also, nothing falls through the bottom of the trailer - even little pieces.

OK, OK, I wish I had a nice metal grapple, but it is too much of an operation and $$$$ to get the hydraulics installed, a QA, etc. (My tractor is only a BX25.)

 

[TractorTYMe]

ended up with this clamshell type root/brush grapple. It works great on brush AND logs.

 

[boostmg]

View attachment 694379

ended up with this clamshell type root/brush grapple. It works great on brush AND logs.

Homestead grapple?

 

[TractorTYMe]

Homestead grapple?

Yes.

 

[Grapple guy]

I use my GR30-HC-6" Anbo Grapple for everything, this one is very operator friendly. You can really clean up fast without gouging the surface or you can get real aggressive and can handle everything you give it. Just a bit of caution, if your working with a lot of branches, steer away from grapple rakes with jagged surface on the rake side of the grapple rake, the smaller branches and weeds seen to hold up in the rake and you have to shake it sometimes to dislodge them.

 

[boostmg]

I use my GR30-HC-6" Anbo Grapple for everything, this one is very operator friendly. You can really clean up fast without gouging the surface or you can get real aggressive and can handle everything you give it. Just a bit of caution, if your working with a lot of branches, steer away from grapple rakes with jagged surface on the rake side of the grapple rake, the smaller branches and weeds seen to hold up in the rake and you have to shake it sometimes to dislodge them.
View attachment 694391View attachment 694393

I really like the style of that. With a little bit of a shelf to the lower tines.

where did you get it from?

 

[Bullwinkle123]

I have a lot of brush piles and down trees I’ll want to move. I can get two styles of grapples I’m wondering which one y’all would recommend.

Here is a photo of an example brush pile and the two styles of grapple.

I have the Landpride SCG1072, which resembles the second photo (grapple on tractor). I use it for all kinds of brush and tree cleanup, and while I don't know if I'd truly be happer with the grapple of the left Steinsammler (?) grapple, I've often though a grapple with longer bottom tines would make me happier. Closer and longer bottom tines might drop less material between point of pickup and the brush pile destination.

That said, I'm not unhappy with my grapple and I'm still learning various techniques. One thing I could probably do better with mine (like your right hand photo) do an equal sided drop-from-above claw-like grab on the brush. But mostly I prefer to slide the tines along the ground to get the bottom material, and I would guess the Steinsammler is better at that . My landpride bottom tines are barely tines. For example, you can't really put anything on them (to carry) even with the grapple open and tilted, stuff just slides off because they're very curved. So what isn't secured by closing the grapple is lost. There are times I wouldn't mind being able to carry my chainsaw in the grapple, but no such luck.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Some more pics of things I’d pick up

Now for that second set of photos that are more large trees, there's where the ability of my landpride curved grapple to act like a claw in the arcade game probably works better. I can't see the Steinsammler being quite as flexible with large tree carries. Having said that, I probably still try to scoop more from the bottom. Ultimately I'm just trying to pick the darn things up without damaging my grass or whatever else they fell on.

 

[rswyan]

This is the one I built, modeled on a WR Long product:

Used it to clear out this area towards the back of the picture that was being invaded by aspens:

Kind of surprising what you can dig and root out with a grapple and a FEL on a CUT ... assuming the right technique of course:

Area in the back of the image is after it was finished being cleared and graded out:

 

[jjp8182]

Just another point to consider: sometimes it's not how big of thing you can pick up that matters the most, but how small of stick can be grabbed without getting off the tractor. May just be me and how I work, but I've found that not having to get off the tractor to pick up every single stick that may have fallen while moving piles can be worthwhile, as sometimes it's easier to to just use the tractor to pick up a few small sticks like this and bunch them together during final clean up. ...though having a grapple that where top and bottom tines touch helps with that (as does having the patience to learn how to use it to pick up small items quickly/efficiently). ...can also be nice to not tear up a lawn when doing it too

For reference/perspective the grapple in the picture is a 66" version of one of these: Single Lid Wicked Root Grapple Lightweight Strong Large opening ...so the non-laminated tines are 3/8" thick

Would very much love to get to the point of being able to pick up a raw egg with an excavator (or a grapple on a tractor) without breaking it - as doing something like that would seem to require a fair amount of skill (which should be able to translate to more useful skills like safely operating close to high-dollar structures/items that can't be moved).

 

[boostmg]

I have the Landpride SCG1072, which resembles the second photo (grapple on tractor). I use it for all kinds of brush and tree cleanup, and while I don't know if I'd truly be happer with the grapple of the left Steinsammler (?) grapple, I've often though a grapple with longer bottom tines would make me happier. Closer and longer bottom tines might drop less material between point of pickup and the brush pile destination.

That said, I'm not unhappy with my grapple and I'm still learning various techniques. One thing I could probably do better with mine (like your right hand photo) do an equal sided drop-from-above claw-like grab on the brush. But mostly I prefer to slide the tines along the ground to get the bottom material, and I would guess the Steinsammler is better at that . My landpride bottom tines are barely tines. For example, you can't really put anything on them (to carry) even with the grapple open and tilted, stuff just slides off because they're very curved. So what isn't secured by closing the grapple is lost. There are times I wouldn't mind being able to carry my chainsaw in the grapple, but no such luck.

Carrying things w the grapple is a concern i had, like a chainsaw or gas.

i was assuming with the claw style that maybe i could close it and put the things in that way?

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I have a lot of brush piles and down trees I’ll want to move. I can get two styles of grapples I’m wondering which one y’all would recommend.

Here is a photo of an example brush pile and the two styles of grapple.

You want one that will clamp your arm up in it. You don't want the two individual top clamps, those are awfully terrible. The rake bottom with two clamps is the worst. Get a full clam type grapple with full top and bottom clamp. We have two tracked skid steers and a 4x4 tractor that has grapples. The grapple that has two top clamps, well, when the others are busted they'll use it. It's always in good shape because out of seven operators, nobody uses. We go clean up after hurricanes. The ones that have a solid bucket bottom and have bolt in sides kinda work better, but if ize only gonna get one, I'd go full grapple.

 

[Tony H]

I have a lot of brush piles and down trees I’ll want to move. I can get two styles of grapples I’m wondering which one y’all would recommend.

Here is a photo of an example brush pile and the two styles of grapple.

My opinion... Get the one where the two jaws close separately. I mean they open together and close together but if brush is thicker on one side, that jaw will stop and the second one can continue down to grab the lower brush. It looks like the black one you show does not clamp down independently.. You'll end up dropping a lot of brush if the grapple can't hold it across the width of the grapple. Wow the guy who posted above me feel just the opposite of me. I tend to slide under the piles so long lower tines that are close together for less droppage ( as well as loading tools on) with independent closing on top jaws just works.

 

[Ghostrider16]

I also have a Land Pride SGC1072. I've never used the type in your first pic, but I've been very happy with the 1072.

I have several acres that are heavily forested, so I primarily use it for picking up brush and logs, and brother, it can pick up a giant pile of brush! It works great with the logs also. I keep my tractor set up for logging with a skidding winch on the back and the grapple on the front. I don't think I've had my regular bucket on for more than a day or two since I bought the tractor 3-4 years ago. I've also used mine to load/unload items onto a trailer or into my pick-up bed using a chain and hanging it off the lower tines.

You mentioned carrying stuff in the grapple... I've carried split wood in it open and tilted back with no issues. I don't think I would try to carry a chainsaw in there. Even closed it would likely bounce around somewhat unless you were driving on a smooth, paved road. With most saws having lots of plastic these days, I wouldn't want to risk breaking anything.

There is a learning curve with it as you get used to how it handles and what positions work best. You'll eventually develop techniques for whatever job you're using it for.

 

[beenthere]

I didn't want to overload the FEL with a lot of extra weight in steel.
I find "The Thumb" to be more than adequate to grapple brush and logs, as well as rocks, and adds little weight to the front end. Can pick up huge loads of brush from tree tops, as well as anchor logs to the forks for carrying and for holding while bucking off firewood lengths.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

I didn't want to overload the FEL with a lot of extra weight in steel.
I find "The Thumb" to be more than adequate to grapple brush and logs, as well as rocks, and adds little weight to the front end. Can pick up huge loads of brush from tree tops, as well as anchor logs to the forks for carrying and for holding while bucking off firewood lengths.

That is a great setup for exactly what you describe; makes a man want TWO grapples...

 

[jjp8182]

That is a great setup for exactly what you describe; makes a man want TWO grapples...

...and that's how it starts.

Get one grapple, and then see the benefits of a different style and the next thing you know you've got two grapples, and then collection just keeps growing......

(trust me I know as I've already got this grapple addiction thing going with a single lid L-bottom, and a post-puller/stump-bucket style ...and desires for a few other types too ...those pallet fork style are mighty tempting, as are some of the various forestry/log grapples like the by-passing tongs, and the single lid with two tine bottom)

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Carrying things w the grapple is a concern i had, like a chainsaw or gas.

i was assuming with the claw style that maybe i could close it and put the things in that way?

It's bad enough carrying things in a bucket, because you forget something is in the bucket and can destroy it. And while you can see what's in the grapple, one accidental push of the grapple "close" function for a fraction of a second and you may destroy whatever you are carrying.

That said, I have once or twice opened my grapple a bit, to put something in it without it falling out, and used bungee cords to keep it from moving about. Hack upon hack upon hack because tractors stink at carrying the little things :-/ I have also bungeed things to my rear blade arm assembly (like a mattock) for field work. Bungee cords for the win?

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I didn't want to overload the FEL with a lot of extra weight in steel.
I find "The Thumb" to be more than adequate to grapple brush and logs, as well as rocks, and adds little weight to the front end. Can pick up huge loads of brush from tree tops, as well as anchor logs to the forks for carrying and for holding while bucking off firewood lengths.

This is what I want to do! With a set of forks from either mytractortools.com or AI2. With one of their quick attaches.