Bar oil quality

[5030]

Really amazing how they go from low to overfilled so quickly isn't it? Gasoline too, why I use a 2.5 gallon gas can and only mix a gallon at a time, which is what the Stihl mini bottles are geared for.

 

[Lnk]

Really amazing how they go from low to overfilled so quickly isn't it? Gasoline too, why I use a 2.5 gallon gas can and only mix a gallon at a time, which is what the Stihl mini bottles are geared for.

I bought the 2 stroke oil that has the squeeze measuring second reservoir, kept the container. I refill with whatever kind I find, hard to mix 40:1 with the little 2.6oz. bottles. I know most run 50:1, but I don't.

 

[PILOON]

What I found confusing was those mixing graphs.
Considering that most are for USA volumes you have to convert US gal to Cdn gal but then we now use liters so convert gals to liters.
No matter, I tend to err on the richer (oilier) side and prepared to replace the odd spark plug.

I'm in my '80's and have run more than my share of 2 strokes from chain saws, ATV's and many outboards and snow sleds and never had an engine seize.
'Back then' we'd simply use SAE 30 ,non detergent, for our 2 stroke engines.

I once tore down an old 25 HP Jonson outboard that I had run a tank full per sunny day for 3 years* or so expecting problems but that VERY overworked and abused motor was nice as new inside.
LOL, that ole 25 had actually jumped off of the transom at least 7/8 times and always started once the plug was dried and bowl emptied. (oily transom and lose clamps)
LOL, Got so that I had a tether attached for fast easy retrieval.

*we practiced a lot for water ski shows and competitions back then.

 

[4570Man]

Really amazing how they go from low to overfilled so quickly isn't it? Gasoline too, why I use a 2.5 gallon gas can and only mix a gallon at a time, which is what the Stihl mini bottles are geared for.

I like those push button no spill cans for filling 2 stroke equipment. I usually mix 2 gallons in a 2.5 gallon can.

 

[5030]

Chainsaw tanks are pretty small for those OSHA approved spouts.

 

[arrow]

The chainsaw engine is turning a lot of rpm’s but I doubt the bar and chain is turning faster than a car engine.

most of the time the chain speed is measured in length traveled for a given time..
A chainsaw revving to 12,000 rpms will make its 3/8ths chain travel about a mile per minute.
More sprocket teeth, the the longer the distance.
A 302 Ford engine piston at 6000 rpm travels 2500 ft per minute w a 3" stroke.

That's a lot of trivia of no use whatsoever but its what one tends to get when a logger also drag raced.

 

[marhar]

Is not a fair comparison: An engine is a closed system and the oil is pressurized; a chainsaw is has an oil pump that puts oil on the bar, but not under pressure.

most of the time the chain speed is measured in length traveled for a given time..
A chainsaw revving to 12,000 rpms will make its 3/8ths chain travel about a mile per minute.
More sprocket teeth, the the longer the distance.
A 302 Ford engine piston at 6000 rpm travels 2500 ft per minute w a 3" stroke.

That's a lot of trivia of no use whatsoever but its what one tends to get when a logger also drag raced.

 

[CADplans]

most of the time the chain speed is measured in length traveled for a given time..
A chainsaw revving to 12,000 rpms will make its 3/8ths chain travel about a mile per minute.
More sprocket teeth, the the longer the distance.
A 302 Ford engine piston at 6000 rpm travels 2500 ft per minute w a 3" stroke.

That's a lot of trivia of no use whatsoever but its what one tends to get when a logger also drag raced.

I just calculated my wife's car,, @ redline, the piston travels .969 miles per minute,,
at 9,000 rpm, piston speed is 4965 ft/min,, which was higher than any other production car to date.
It has molybdenum disulfide-coated piston skirts for reduced friction.

No wonder it needed tires every 10,000 to 15,000 miles,,,

and, it uses 5W-30 oil,,

maybe, my chainsaw needs a molybdenum disulfide-coated chain bar??

 

[Lnk]

I just calculated my wife's car,, @ redline, the piston travels .969 miles per minute,,
at 9,000 rpm, piston speed is 4965 ft/min,, which was higher than any other production car to date.
It has molybdenum disulfide-coated piston skirts for reduced friction.

No wonder it needed tires every 10,000 to 15,000 miles,,,

and, it uses 5W-30 oil,,

maybe, my chainsaw needs a molybdenum disulfide-coated chain bar??

Nice s-2000. What year?

 

[arrow]

Is not a fair comparison: An engine is a closed system and the oil is pressurized; a chainsaw is has an oil pump that puts oil on the bar, but not under pressure.

Not getting your drift...I just offered some useless info and compared nothing about, heat, friction, oiling open or closed.
I full well know there can't be a comparison to an i.c.e and chainsaw bar oiling.
Perhaps you meant your post to Dodge man who I guess initially brought up a comparison?

Now if we were talking about two stroke vehicles..well...watch

 

[marhar]

Not getting your drift...I just offered some useless info and compared nothing about, heat, friction, oiling open or closed.
I full well know there can't be a comparison to an i.c.e and chainsaw bar oiling.
Perhaps you meant your post to Dodge man who I guess initially brought up a comparison?

Now if we were talking about two stroke vehicles..well...watch

You are correct; I posted to your comment in error.

 

[WilliamTO-35]

Two seasons ago, I tried using canola oil to lubricate my chainsaw chains. It seemed to work ok during use. However, after letting the saw sit for several months, I found the canola oil had become so gummy that the chain was frozen into the bar groove , and required a lot of work to clean out. I'm sure there are vegetable oil based chain oils that don't gum up , but I certainly won't try using cooking grade canola again.

 

[masseyrider]

I use my old hydraulic oil from my tractors. Done it my whole life. Never had a problem.
When I first drain it I do let it sit so any contaminants settle to the bottom. Don't use the stuff off the bottom.

 

[5030]

I use Stihl bar oil in gallon jugs and Stihl pre mix bottles of 50-1.

 

[masseyrider]

Mr fancy. LOL

 

[5030]

I'm not as cheap as you are. Simple answer.

 

[Garson]

That's great, but nothing you have said about your experience gives any indication one way or the other whether the used engine oil you are using is working as well as real bar oil. The fact that your chains always cut straight are an indication that you know a thing or two about sharpening chains.

You're right, John. I should have been more specific on bar/chain wear. My original Husky has cut over 100 cords to firewood lengths, my Pro Husky has cut over 200 cords. I've replaced one bar total so wear is not costing much extra. Yes, it does leave a black residue in the saw around the drive sprocket that doesn't bother anything outside of esthetics. So in my opinion, to answer this "Bar Oil Quality" forum, one can save ($10/four liter jug in Canada) considerably by using used oil. Like many people, I use synthetic engine oil in my vehicles. This oil should be even better for wear than chainsaw bar oil. Happy cutting.

 

[newbury]

I use mostly a product sold by Baileys motion lotion, about 8 years ago they had a kick butt sale on it and I bought a case or 2. Still have a bunch left.
Did cause some discussion when I got big plain shipping boxes labelled "Motion Lotion"

 

[ArlyA]

We run through a gallon or maybe 1.5 per year. Since chains and bars are rather costly compared to that volume of oil, plus I don't like the carcinogens in used oils, I think we'll stick with bar oil from the store. I got other things to be more concerned with than the cost of our bar oil.

 

[cqaigy2]

I use Stihl bar oil in gallon jugs and Stihl pre mix bottles of 50-1.

Same on the bar oil, run down to Madsen's pick it up. They usually have a pretty good price on it. I'll have to check out the pre mix next time i'm there.