Sberry
Platinum Member
How much difference is there in the quality of bar oil?
Bar oil quality
- Thread starter Sberry
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sandman2234
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I am sure that there are differences, but as a kid at the age of 12, we started cutting a lot of trees that were ringed by the previous owner. We made firewood out of them and the only oil we used was 30wt oil. Nowadays, the oils have "better" lubrication, and cohesion to stick to the bar. I knew an older guy who only used "used" motor oil on his bar, right out of his lawnmower after it came out of his pickup truck. He never had a lot of bar wear, so I guess any oil is better than none!
David from jax
David from jax
ArlyA
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Good question! 
I've wondered about that myself. Since chains run us the most cost of operating saws, we just use the Stihl stuff.
I've wondered about that myself. Since chains run us the most cost of operating saws, we just use the Stihl stuff.
Cycledude
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There are actually a few different blends of bar oil around here, winter, year round and summer, since I’m from Wisconsin where it can get very cold the only bar oil I will buy is supposedly designed for year round use.
ArlyA
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We use summer and winter oils by Sthil. I looked at the 20-30 stuff and thought it was to thick!
Doughknob
Veteran Member
I mix any bar oil with used motor oil. My Husky binds at the tip if i use straight bar oil.
I used motor oil in my old craftsman for years and did wear the bar so much that it would not cut straight.
Captain Dirty
Platinum Member
Back in there day (c. 1960) my father had a McCullough I-43 that had a hand (thumb pushbutton) oiler. I had been told the chain should leave a stripe of thrown oil so I dutifully pumped gallons of a 50-50 mix of new SAE 30 and used crankcase oil with maybe a cup of kerosine thrown into the gallon jug during winter or when we had a lot of pine. No problems that could be attributed to lack of chain lube.
The chainsaws I have bought, Stihl and Husky, have auto-oilers that have never had the factory settings adjusted. I now run Stihl chain oil, but during an oil crisis my dealer sold me a pail of "rock drill oil" claiming it was the equivalent (and the only stuff available). The newer oils are more tacky than motor oil, and the stripe is nowhere near as prominent, but still no problems attributable to lack of chain lube.
The chainsaws I have bought, Stihl and Husky, have auto-oilers that have never had the factory settings adjusted. I now run Stihl chain oil, but during an oil crisis my dealer sold me a pail of "rock drill oil" claiming it was the equivalent (and the only stuff available). The newer oils are more tacky than motor oil, and the stripe is nowhere near as prominent, but still no problems attributable to lack of chain lube.
ericm979
Super Member
Some newer saws put out less oil than the old ones did. So they need better bar oil. Dedicated bar oil has tackifiers to make it stick to the bar better.
I've seen arguments that some of the bar oil gets sprayed out in fine droplets by the chain and the operator breathes some. That's one of the reasons for using vegetable oil. And a good reason to not run used motor oil with it's carcinogens. Also dirty used oil makes a mess of the saw.
Another advantage to vegetable oil is that is breaks down in the environment better than mineral based oils. If it wasn't for the problem of vegetable based oil gumming up the chain and oil system if it's left in the saw for too long I'd try it.
I've seen arguments that some of the bar oil gets sprayed out in fine droplets by the chain and the operator breathes some. That's one of the reasons for using vegetable oil. And a good reason to not run used motor oil with it's carcinogens. Also dirty used oil makes a mess of the saw.
Another advantage to vegetable oil is that is breaks down in the environment better than mineral based oils. If it wasn't for the problem of vegetable based oil gumming up the chain and oil system if it's left in the saw for too long I'd try it.
PILOON
Super Star Member
A guy I knew ran a tool rental and supplied oil and gas mix with each rental.
Being a frugal type he bottled automatic tranny oil for the saws.
Never had issues that were caused by that used oil.
The main difference between 'chain oil' and other oils is that they seem to have added a component to make the oil CLING rather than fling.