Bar Oil

[xyz123]

I'll bring mine back to tsc.....

So you saying you dont know if the winter weight oil you bought there is 10w or 20w?

 

[ArlyA]

So you saying you dont know if the winter weight oil you bought there is 10w or 20w?

View attachment 4695581

The can said winter oil.

 

[xyz123]

The can said winter oil.

Ya I get that. But winter bar oils come in 10w and 20w.
I'd steer clear of 20w ones.

All season and summer oil is 30w.

Just use some diesel and all good though. Was in manuals too.

 

[walhondingMF]

So cleaned the bar and the oiling groove. It was plugged up pretty good. I also put a new edge on the chain and worked the rakers a bit. Filled it back up with the silver bottle bar oil. Also took my 445 out with the same oil. My conclusions are this...
1. My first cuts were at the base, which was close to a full 24" AND had been rotting from the inside out. I think this very moist, very fine dirt from the decay was really gumming up the bar oil.
2. The white oak is pretty hard stuff. I cut through an entire silver maple, about 18" at the base and about 30' long with the 445. Stayed sharp until I made 3 cuts into the white oak. I don't think the raker depth was set very good for a very hard wood.
3. The silver stihl oil did ok without thinning because it wasn't mixing with those fine particles from the rot. However, it does not seem to flow past the bar onto the replaceable tip.

I had a small sample of the DGP bar oil from the Paul Bunyan show. Buckin Billy Ray raves about it. I had just used a bit of it in my electric saw and liked it. Put the rest of it in the 562xp. I really liked it. Seemed to flow well even cold. I'm going to buy a gallon of it and try it.

 

[ArlyA]

Ya I get that. But winter bar oils come in 10w and 20w.
I'd steer clear of 20w ones.

All season and summer oil is 30w.

Just use some diesel and all good though. Was in manuals too.

View attachment 4699115

The can is not in my possession. Here's what there page says,,,, which is not much.
--------------------------------------------
The CountyLine Winter Chainsaw Bar and Chain Oil lubricates the bar and chain for smooth cutting performance in low temperatures. Designed to inhibit rust, this winter chainsaw bar set is sure to hold up for long-lasting use. The chainsaw bar set also contains tackiness agents to prolong performance. It's great for extending the life of the chain and bar.

• Chainsaw bar set reduces heat and friction for safe use
• Formulated for use in major brands of equipment
• Extends the life of the chain and bar
• Chainsaw bar set inhibits rust for long-lasting use
• Contains tackiness agents to prolong performance
• Lubricates the bar and chain for smooth cutting performance in low temperatures

 

[Deanes]

I've never had issues with it before, even below freezing, but the stihl silver jug bar oil seems to be gumming up really bad before it even leaves the bar cover. It seems to make the oiling inconsistant and my tip is getting hot or there doesn't seem to be enough oil on the cutting edge of the chain. I know its not to tight. Anyone had issues with this before?

Bar oil is just a cheap single grade oil that does a very light job in a pretty low friction environment. Solve your problem and save money by using a much better automotive oil. For example a 10w-30 or 40. It has much better lubrication quality anyway.

 

[Tbone07]

So cleaned the bar and the oiling groove. It was plugged up pretty good. I also put a new edge on the chain and worked the rakers a bit. Filled it back up with the silver bottle bar oil. Also took my 445 out with the same oil. My conclusions are this...
1. My first cuts were at the base, which was close to a full 24" AND had been rotting from the inside out. I think this very moist, very fine dirt from the decay was really gumming up the bar oil.
2. The white oak is pretty hard stuff. I cut through an entire silver maple, about 18" at the base and about 30' long with the 445. Stayed sharp until I made 3 cuts into the white oak. I don't think the raker depth was set very good for a very hard wood.

What I've found from cutting a ton of extremely dry, extremely dead standing ash is that you make more dust than you do chips. That wreaks havoc on your bar/chain/oiling no matter what temp it is outside. But 20deg is definitely cold enough to justify winter grade bar oil. Cut it with diesel if you're in a pinch. If you're making repetitious firewood type cuts, pause in between cuts and mildly rev the saw to get some oil to the bar/chain. But even that might not be enough

 

[RayIN]

So cleaned the bar and the oiling groove. It was plugged up pretty good. I also put a new edge on the chain and worked the rakers a bit. Filled it back up with the silver bottle bar oil. Also took my 445 out with the same oil. My conclusions are this...
1. My first cuts were at the base, which was close to a full 24" AND had been rotting from the inside out. I think this very moist, very fine dirt from the decay was really gumming up the bar oil.
2. The white oak is pretty hard stuff. I cut through an entire silver maple, about 18" at the base and about 30' long with the 445. Stayed sharp until I made 3 cuts into the white oak. I don't think the raker depth was set very good for a very hard wood.
3. The silver stihl oil did ok without thinning because it wasn't mixing with those fine particles from the rot. However, it does not seem to flow past the bar onto the replaceable tip.

I had a small sample of the DGP bar oil from the Paul Bunyan show. Buckin Billy Ray raves about it. I had just used a bit of it in my electric saw and liked it. Put the rest of it in the 562xp. I really liked it. Seemed to flow well even cold. I'm going to buy a gallon of it and try it.

Take care filing the rakers; I filed mine too much on my small Echo. The chain grabbed while sawing a large White Oak which broke the chain and flywheel key. After evaluation, I was lucky the crank didn't break too.

 

[RayIN]

There is no need to grease the front sprocket on a bar. I stopped greasing mine over 30 years ago and have yet to burn up a sprocket nose.

Good luck!

 

[RandyT]

If it does have a sprocket/wheel you should be greasing the wheel often with the special grease gun that came with the saw.

There is no need to grease the front sprocket on a bar. I stopped greasing mine over 30 years ago and have yet to burn up a sprocket nose.

The general rule is to grease it everytime you use the saw or not at all. Intermittent greasing breaks the dirt barrier around the nose sprocket bearing allowing dirt intrusion. Some new bars come sealed from the factory. Stihl has been using sealed nose bars for years.

 

[DutchInNZ]

It has been mentioned somewhere before: used, filtered W-type engine oil. No problem, works in all temperatures. My saws use just under 1 tank of oil on one tank of gasoline, so the saw runs out of gas before out of chain oil.

 

[RayIN]

It has been mentioned somewhere before: used, filtered W-type engine oil. No problem, works in all temperatures. My saws use just under 1 tank of oil on one tank of gasoline, so the saw runs out of gas before out of chain oil.

Monitor bar N chain wear though.

 

[DutchInNZ]

Why Used Engine Oil is a Concern

• Carcinogenic Agents: While unused engine oil has a low risk, the process of running an engine creates polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and other combustion products which accumulate in the oil over time. These PAHs are known carcinogens.
• IARC Classification: The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies used engine oils as a Group 1 carcinogen, meaning it is known to cause cancer in humans.
• Specific Cancers: The primary cancer linked to dermal exposure is squamous cell carcinoma of the skin, particularly scrotal cancer, which was one of the first recognized occupational diseases.

Polycyclic phenols are indeed suspected to be carcinogenic if during a long time (i.e. more days) being in direct and intensive contact with the skin. For comparison: put a cloth around your arm and keep it wet with gasoline. After two or three hours the nerves in that arm will be temporarily completely insensitive and, if longer, irreversibly so. When chainsawing I am more concerned about the gasoline and its fumes than about an incidental drop of oil that I wipe off my hands. Things are always relative; once aspirin was declared poisonous on longer term use in mice tests, but they forgot to tell that the doses were 100 times the normally advised milligrams per kilogram body weight.

Scrotum cancer was indeed one of the first diagnosed ones, and, as the story goes, specifically with English chimney sweeps. At that time, the people did not have the habit of washing their body parts or clothes every now and then and it was the continuous contact with soot dust in their underpants that caused it. After they were instructed to regularly take a bath this cancer all but disappeared. Don't laugh about that: male circumcision is for the same reason: if in the desert you don´t have water to wash, then you take the skin off as a permanent solution and to make sure, make it a religious rule. That might indicate that the basis of the Semitic peoples, the Jews and the Mid-Easterners, is the same, however much they are hating each other now.

 

[thclimer]

I've heard a concern with used motor oil is its potential for it to be aerosolized and you breath it in.

There are so many unknowns about cancer today. However, what we do know, is there are specific chemicals that will cause it, then there are so many more that are suspected to cause it.

I look at it this way, while using used motor oil as chain saw bar oil is not going to kill you directly the day after you use it. I'd have to imagen that It can be lumped into the pile as a contributing factor, like so many other things that we suspect that over time can cause cancer. If its easy to eliminate one of the contributing factors then why not.