Bar Oil

[Jeff Lary]

I bought 12 gallons last summer at TSC when it went on sale, it was summer weight, and I only cut in the winter, so this summer weight was too thick to use in 20* weather. So, I pour off a little in something about a cup I guess, then I put 1 cup of Diesel Fuel into the jug and shake. Thins it about the right amount for my usage.

 

[walnutman]

I've never had issues with it before, even below freezing, but the stihl silver jug bar oil seems to be gumming up really bad before it even leaves the bar cover. It seems to make the oiling inconsistant and my tip is getting hot or there doesn't seem to be enough oil on the cutting edge of the chain. I know its not to tight. Anyone had issues with this before?

I use used motor oil. Yes it's thin but they charge too much for bar and chain oil.

 

[walnutman]

Used motor oil is a well known carcinogen. Just saying, we'll not be using it.

Are you drinking it? Oh... you get some in the cut and burn it? Give me a break.

 

[RandyT]

Are you drinking it? Oh... you get some in the cut and burn it? Give me a break.

Everybody knows that everything and everybody from California causes cancer

 

[Little Red Tractor]

Having had a fairly large assortment of leftover oil--a bit of this, a bit of that, and a little of something else--I only buy bar oil when run out out of the mix and match...and buy the cheapest stuff I can find. Over many years (since the mid-1970s) and several saws of several manufacturers, I've never had a problems. It does sound like a contaminated container, a bad batch, or a failing delivery system.

 

[RandyT]

Had issues with the Rural King bar oil years past with it destroying the plastic oil pump gear in Poulan saws in the winter because the stuff would poor about like molasses, and had about the same sheen. Almost would look like it had shiny crystals in it.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

I've only bough 2 new chainsaws in my lifetime. I've had plenty of small giveaways, couple that Pop picked up free/very cheap and never had an issue with used oil. I don't cut for a living, maybe a few wood stove wood each year, about 3-4 cord.
Yes, I know that maintenance is important, but for my use, new or used, used oil works good enough. I've only replaced 1 bar, and that was on a new saw. I damaged tip, and it jammed with sawdust often. It's not the price of new oil, it's the "make do with what you have" mentality I grew up with.

 

[AnotherBueller]

I've never had issues with it before, even below freezing, but the stihl silver jug bar oil seems to be gumming up really bad before it even leaves the bar cover. It seems to make the oiling inconsistant and my tip is getting hot or there doesn't seem to be enough oil on the cutting edge of the chain. I know its not to tight. Anyone had issues with this before?

Local old timer saw mechanic ( he's a master stihl mechanic per the diploma on the wall) told me once that he won't use the silver label stuff and advised me to so.

 

[RayIN]

562xp with a xlight 24" bar. Its turned up all the way. It was probably around 20 degrees.

Reset the oil pump adjustment to the middle, observe output before making another change. My electric chain saw is set to approx. 1/3 and IMO is still pumping too much. Oil weight is the determining factor, once you set the pump for a certain oil weight leave it alone and buy the same weight oil again.
I once watched a guy sawing, and the nose of the bar was turning blue. It was hard to keep my mouth shut until he asked for my opinion.

 

[ArlyA]

You guys jinxed me! Was running out of Blue stihl oil and my dealership was out, so I ran to the locale TSC store and got their brand of winter bar oil. At 10 degrees it ran like molasses....

 

[Yander]

I asked the guy I hire to remove trees around my buildings what bar oil he uses. He said the oil he drains from his truck and has for years. And he has a big assortment of Stihl saws in his fancy truck including an MS500i. Just saying.

My dad also used, used oil for several decades, cutting wood. No issues except I stopped using it due to the mess it makes as it slings back onto your clothing and if you spill it on yourself when refilling. But I don't use much bar oil, so $$ is a non-factor.

 

[RayIN]

I use used motor oil. Yes it's thin but they charge too much for bar and chain oil.

Priced a replacement bar and chain recently? One year I put used oil into my saws. The next year I had to replace the bar and chain on both.
Motor oil doesn't contain the sticky compound required, so it just slings off before getting all the way around the bar groove.

 

[mattltlp]

I've been using Great Value soybean oil. Get it in the gallon jugs at WalMart for very cheap vs the very expensive Stihl Eco Bar Lube which is exactly soybean oil. Haven't had any problems yet.

This is what I was going to suggest. When it's really cold, I mix some canola cooking oil in with regular bar oil. Seems to work well for me.

 

[tbarrick]

FYI all petroleum based oil is a carcinogen, my father used used motor oil from our vehicles in his Homelite super xl that went 30 years. I used it in my Homelite 330 for 20 years and now my Jonsered for 15 years and have had no issues. I replace bars maybe every 10 years. It is free and recycles oil rather than consumes more.

 

[ArlyA]

Are you drinking it? Oh... you get some in the cut and burn it? Give me a break.

Guys handling used engine oil were getting ski cancer.

 

[ArlyA]

Why Used Engine Oil is a Concern

• Carcinogenic Agents: While unused engine oil has a low risk, the process of running an engine creates polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and other combustion products which accumulate in the oil over time. These PAHs are known carcinogens.
• IARC Classification: The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies used engine oils as a Group 1 carcinogen, meaning it is known to cause cancer in humans.
• Specific Cancers: The primary cancer linked to dermal exposure is squamous cell carcinoma of the skin, particularly scrotal cancer, which was one of the first recognized occupational diseases.

 

[JimR]

Bar oil is meant to lubricate the chain sliding in the bar groove. The sticker the better IMO. If your bar does not have a nose Sprocket/wheel it will get hot if you don't give it a break once in a while.
If it does have a sprocket/wheel you should be greasing the wheel often with the special grease gun that came with the saw.

There is no need to grease the front sprocket on a bar. I stopped greasing mine over 30 years ago and have yet to burn up a sprocket nose.

 

[xyz123]

You guys jinxed me! Was running out of Blue stihl oil and my dealership was out, so I ran to the locale TSC store and got their brand of winter bar oil. At 10 degrees it ran like molasses....

Never tried it. I just cut with diesel.

But wonder is their TSC winter weight listed at 10w or 20w? I was at RK and their winter BO was 20w.

I always thought winter BO was 10w least ones I seen local.

I seen it there beside it to left in pic and never checked.

 

[ArlyA]

Never tried it. I just cut with diesel.

But wonder is their TSC winter weight listed at 10w or 20w? I was at RK and their winter BO was 20w.

I always thought winter BO was 10w least ones I seen local.

I seen it there beside it to left in pic and never checked.


View attachment 4692652

I'll bring mine back to tsc..... Its sure runny at room temp.

 

[walhondingMF]

Are you using Summer Weight oil ?

I think its multi season oil.