B7100 Restore Project Has Begun

[KubotainNH]

If you want to keep the stock appearance then you only have one option.

If you want functional, then you could cut off the front of the hood where the headlights mount and have a shop fab and mig on a flat front. Then you could mount in some rectangular headlights and still put the bull emblem in the middle. I think that could look pretty neat. I almost wish mine was more dinged in the front (ha! too late to trade) to do something like that. The OEM headlights I read are kinda weak. I am trying to figure out what to do with mine. I would like to put more powerful lights in, using a relay with direct link to battery of course. Finding some replacement that will fit the 4 inch opening is a challenge.

Meanwhile I built a front grill pictured below. That radiator was too exposed for me - my boys seem to run into everything when they 'tractor'. I did not put any expanded metal on the front of this one (unlike all others) since wanted to be able to reach in and clean the radiator front. It looks a little awkward, but then so does anyone over 6 ft sitting on this little machine - but that gives it some of its appeal to me.

That's pretty cool. How do you open the hood? As for the headlights, I've wondered if I could fit some 12volt LED spotlights in there. My son's LED Maglight is really bright but the wrong voltage.

 

[j t huskins]

Here's a picture - think I can knock that out? Doesn't have to be perfect:
View attachment 252096

Yea, it can be straightened and filled like mine or as has been suggested new sheet metal formed and welded over it. I have been giving some thought to using aluminum to form a new front and cutting a sheet to cover the top center which is wavy. Original may have to change to custom before its finished.

 

[j t huskins]

If you want to keep the stock appearance then you only have one option.

If you want functional, then you could cut off the front of the hood where the headlights mount and have a shop fab and mig on a flat front. Then you could mount in some rectangular headlights and still put the bull emblem in the middle. I think that could look pretty neat. I almost wish mine was more dinged in the front (ha! too late to trade) to do something like that. The OEM headlights I read are kinda weak. I am trying to figure out what to do with mine. I would like to put more powerful lights in, using a relay with direct link to battery of course. Finding some replacement that will fit the 4 inch opening is a challenge.

Meanwhile I built a front grill pictured below. That radiator was too exposed for me - my boys seem to run into everything when they 'tractor'. I did not put any expanded metal on the front of this one (unlike all others) since wanted to be able to reach in and clean the radiator front. It looks a little awkward, but then so does anyone over 6 ft sitting on this little machine - but that gives it some of its appeal to me.

Thats a really good job. It looks tough enough to handle any youngster and blends in to look like a factory front bumper. As for head lights I have been looking for replacements also. Have found out that some old Murray riding mowers had a headlight that would fit our hoods. Have also tried a round equipment sealed beam bulb and it fits behind the opening and could be mounted with a fabricated bracket.

 

[GPintheMitten]

You might find some fog lights fit.

 

[j t huskins]

You might find some fog lights fit.[/QUOTE Good idea. The 3" 55 watt units that I put in one of my Dodge trucks to replace the poor OEM plastic units would probably be fairly easy to fabricate a mount for inside the hood. That is if the dynamo can take the pressure. These lights are very bright and put out a wide beam.

 

[6mmbr]

Hood opens just fine, clears grill.
I am "fabbing" up a mount to hold suitcase weights on the front. I get a kick out of seeing adds for old Kubotas and other tractors with all sorts of pieces of concrete and boat anchors hanging off the front. A "field expedient" solution I realize but not the definition of "high speed low drag".

Headlights still a mystery to me. Can get replacements from Messicks, but at $60 each, I'd rather improvise something - anybody can buy 'em. How can we be creative and solve this....

 

[6mmbr]

Teaser......

Honda Pilot fog lights. They are sold on ebay for about $50. Come with wiring harness and other parts to be thrown away. 55watt bulb. I already tested the electronics and they do work. They work off a relay and a fused direct battery connection. Spent some time fashioning the bracket to hold them in place. Pretty solid now. If anybody goes with these I can give you more detailed instructions of how I modified the wiring harness, etc. I will do a test night image next few days once I have it back together for good. Thanks.

 

[j t huskins]

Looks like they will work. That is similar to what I was thinking with my Dodge driving lights. They are 3.75" OD and fit the opening good. I still haven't started on my hood yet. Due to a major brake job on my sons badly rusted truck my shop and time has been tied up all week. I was able to get the tractor halves back together tonight after I ran out of parts for the truck. Still have to clean and paint the body, wheels, and hood.

 

[6mmbr]

How many gears did you have to replace in the transmission?
Was everything available new or did you have to repair anything?

 

[6mmbr]

 

[Baby Grand]

Nice pattern, 6mmbr! I'll have to keep my eyes open for Honda Pilot fogs.

JT - that's a really nice restoration, and I may "borrow" your grill guard idea, except I will have to omit the receiver hitch as the fwd PTO shaft will be going there.

 

[KubotainNH]

Wow, those lights look to be a good upgrade.

 

[j t huskins]

How many gears did you have to replace in the transmission?
Was everything available new or did you have to repair anything?

I had to replace 4 gears, 2 bearings, and the 4x4 shifting fork slide. Replaced all the seals while it was apart. That was 650.00 worth of parts. Everything was available from Kubota and my local dealer gave me a huge discount on the order. I also had to hone the lift cylinder and replace the O ring and add the up dated plastic ring. The cylinder had rusted from condensation during the 3 years of no use at the community college. All the major mechanic work that I have had to do has taken up the time that I would like to have been making improvements like you have to yours. Finally got the body painted today and hope to get most of it back together this coming week in between working on my son's truck. Still have to prep and paint the wheels then do the body work on the hood which will take awhile due to it's condition. Your headlights look really good. Do they max out the dynamo?

 

[6mmbr]

Glad to hear you were able to get everything replaced and didn't have a casted part broken. Although it cost some, at least you know it's all solid in there now and it'll last until the "auction". (I keep telling my wife, "you're gonna have a great auction someday!)

According to my Datel Voltmeter, when running at mid-throttle or higher it generates 14.5 volts. With lights on, it drops to (approximately) 12.8 volts. If I drop to idle it goes to 11.98 volts with lights on, and 12.5 with lights off. Not sure how this fits into Ohm's law. Running two 55 watt bulbs. (ahem...anybody smart enough to do the math better show your work and the formulas...no work, no credit !) Moral of story: keep a good throttle when lights on!

I am sure you know this, but for the historical benefit of others reading your thread here, when you go to put new stickers on, spray the part with windex first and apply the sticker to the "wet" painted part. Move the sticker around to where you want it, then squeegee out the fluid underneath. It will be permanently fixed in place in 24 hours.

Waitin' for more pictures.....


..for your amusement, here is link to my LED flasher foray..
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2740196#post2740196

 

[j t huskins]

Spring came too soon and time is getting away from me. I am still working on the restore and using the tractor at the same time. Just lack the hood and front wheels now. Began body work on the hood tonight since I got rained out from plowing with the TC40. I have aerated the yard with the B7100 using my 3 pt aerator that I built from a pull behind model. It can be used with the tongue for tow behind also. I have used the tractor enough to confirm that it isn't charging. The Dynamo is putting out 20v ac at half throttle but I am only getting 4v dc out of the rectifier. Have run it about 2 hrs and the battery dropped from 12.49v to 12.30 volts. Also have to replace the Hr meter which doesn't work. Looked on Ebay for rear hubs but everybody seems to be sold out at the moment. Both of mine have been broken and welded and no attempt was made to true them so I have rear wheel wobble. Seems as though the battery has been shorted out on the hood at some point as evidenced by the burnt area. I wonder if this could have fried the rectifier? I made a battery hold down since the Kubota one was long gone. And you may notice that I will be needing a seat cover also.

 

[Deano]

Looking GREAT!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[ericher69]

Spring came too soon and time is getting away from me. I am still working on the restore and using the tractor at the same time. Just lack the hood and front wheels now. Began body work on the hood tonight since I got rained out from plowing with the TC40. I have aerated the yard with the B7100 using my 3 pt aerator that I built from a pull behind model. It can be used with the tongue for tow behind also. I have used the tractor enough to confirm that it isn't charging. The Dynamo is putting out 20v ac at half throttle but I am only getting 4v dc out of the rectifier. Have run it about 2 hrs and the battery dropped from 12.49v to 12.30 volts. Also have to replace the Hr meter which doesn't work. Looked on Ebay for rear hubs but everybody seems to be sold out at the moment. Both of mine have been broken and welded and no attempt was made to true them so I have rear wheel wobble. Seems as though the battery has been shorted out on the hood at some point as evidenced by the burnt area. I wonder if this could have fried the rectifier? I made a battery hold down since the Kubota one was long gone. And you may notice that I will be needing a seat cover also.

Are you going to put new ag tires to finish the restoration?

Looks good

 

[6mmbr]

If it's not one thing it's another, but you're making progress!

I think the hood is going to work out ok; little pounding, little bondo..it'll be great.

I got my hubs from Plowboys Equipment. The newer style hubs, but they still wobble a little - only noticeable when driving on the road.

 

[j t huskins]

Are you going to put new ag tires to finish the restoration?

Looks good

Money,money,money. Yea they will be in the future

 

[Johndeere3720]

Looking good guys! :thumbsup: There is a guy on my local CL that may have what you are looking for: *************Tractors Parting out