Air cleaner

[California]

I know that California had his 186D dyno tested at a dealer up in northern California

Dave's Tractor, Red Bluff. Great guy. He knows Yanmars but has since moved up in the world to be West Coast Distributor for Mahindra tractors.

He is halfway between me, and where I bought the YM186D, so I had the seller deliver it to Dave's for a lookover and testing before I towed it home from there. Dave's reported that it exceeded horsepower spec on their dyno.

I wouldn't ever build one, but long ago I wondered what it would take to build a dynomometer. It seems to me it would start with some sort of resistance, either a generator or water pump, run from the pto. If this resistance unit were on bearings to transmit all its torque to its mount, then a simple lever and bathroom scale could measure how much force the tractor can apply to that lever. Ok, that's the theory. Engineering it so it didn't kill you would be the hard part.

 

[Car Doc]

Somehow I doubt my YM2000 will outwork that steam tractor for plowing fields! :laughing:

I know using an inertia dyno isn't going to give me comparable numbers to a PTO measurement. I was just curious if anybody has experimented with them in general.

Well it may not out work it but I bet you get more H2O mpg than that machine!!!!

I have not used a chassis dyno on mine however the only one here is at the Detroit diesel shop but it starts at about 150 hp up to 650 approx its old.

When I had my 6-71 blown 63 Chevy II I had gotten a blower case and some gaskets and bearings from them and they wanted me to bring it down there and test it but I told them they didn't have enough dyno!

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea that drawbar HP is for pulling plows and has to do with traction and of course weight. This is the same thing that allows an old 8N Ford to Pull a 2 bottom effortlessly where i can only pull one at best, even though we have similar HP ratings. Yet both tractors are perfectly matched to a 4 ft bushhog. That Drawbar HP is irrelevant if it cant spin the blades through thick grass with a 5 fter.

 

[Car Doc]

Yup pto hp is a better gage of actual work that can be expected in now days applications and add 4wd that adds even more.

 

[Brake Weight]

A moderately hot engine is a more efficient engine. Cold fuel and cold air increase power. I worked with a guy that did mud drags. He got some stainless tubing and made a coil out of it and then coiled in back through the first coil and then had a large Thermos that it sat in. He then packed that with crushed ice. He knocked almost 8 seconds off his previous best pass. It works. Not something feasible for a tractor, but it does work.


On the same air filter here. Does anyone run parts house filters or do y'all strictly Yanmar brand?

 

[California]

The air filter is a unique design. I think Hoye was the first to offer a replica and theirs has a felt gasket on top, a valuable addition to seal well against the 30 year old rubber in the enclosure.

And there are generic almost-fit filters intended for something else that are strongly not recommended, since they don't seal to the enclosure at all.

My preference is limited to genuine Yanmar or Hoye's felt-gasketed replica.

 

[California]

Here is an old thread discussing Yanmar air filters. It includes posts by two dealers.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/123754-ym-2500-air-filter.html

 

[MJPetersen]

They used "drawbar HP" because, believe it or not, tractors did not then have PTO's and that was the best way that was available to measure power. The early tractors were simply "horse replacements." Since they were using implements that horses had previously pulled PTO's and 3 pts were not necessary. 3pt and PTO's were part of the good and useful evolution of tractors.

Mike

not that I am old enough to know this from experience mind you. :laughing:

 

[clemsonfor]

MJ your correct. I think we were making a point that DB horsepower was different and the reasons why. But ye your correct, they used ground powered stuff like horses, like a sickle mower powered by a tire that turned as it was pulled and gears and chains to make the mower work, same with planters and rakes.

 

[Ginormous]

The air filter is a unique design. I think Hoye was the first to offer a replica and theirs has a felt gasket on top, a valuable addition to seal well against the 30 year old rubber in the enclosure.

And there are generic almost-fit filters intended for something else that are strongly not recommended, since they don't seal to the enclosure at all.

My preference is limited to genuine Yanmar or Hoye's felt-gasketed replica.

FYI, I recently bought 3 filters from Hoyes for my YM1700, and they do not have a felt gasket on top, just metal.

 

[Ginormous]

Just ordered a pre-filter cover from Outerwears. I'll let you know how it works out. :thumbsup:

I got my prefilter from Outerwears. I think it's a 10-1010-01. I don't recall the cost, but it was approximately $15 including shipping. It measures about 5.5" long x 3.5" diamter and has some elastic around the opening hole. I took a piece of metal garden fencing I had around, cut it to a reasonable size and bent it by hand into a cage to hold the filter out during operation. Some of the metal extends inside the end of the air intake. I used a hose clamp to hold it on. Here's a picture. I opened up my air filter after bush hogging, and there weren't any pieces of stuff. The Outerwears prefilter has a hole size of 5 mils (~100 microns) so only the fine stuff should get through.

 

[clemsonfor]

I got my prefilter from Outerwears. I think it's a 10-1010-01. I don't recall the cost, but it was approximately $15 including shipping. It measures about 5.5" long x 3.5" diamter and has some elastic around the opening hole. I took a piece of metal garden fencing I had around, cut it to a reasonable size and bent it by hand into a cage to hold the filter out during operation. Some of the metal extends inside the end of the air intake. I used a hose clamp to hold it on. Here's a picture. I opened up my air filter after bush hogging, and there weren't any pieces of stuff. The Outerwears prefilter has a hole size of 5 mils (~100 microns) so only the fine stuff should get through.

You may want to think about flushing that radiator and overflow bottle and refiling it. Assuming thats not orange antifreeze!

 

[clemsonfor]

FYI, I recently bought 3 filters from Hoyes for my YM1700, and they do not have a felt gasket on top, just metal.

Im thinking mine has a faom type material on it when i bought it last year?

 

[Ginormous]

You may want to think about flushing that radiator and overflow bottle and refiling it. Assuming thats not orange antifreeze!

I flushed it over and over and over not too long ago because the water kept coming out orange/tan colored. It's not too surprising that heating/cooling has knocked some more junk loose. I need to change the mix for winter time, so I'll probably wait until fall and clean it out good while I'm at it.

 

[rhett]

I flushed it over and over and over not too long ago because the water kept coming out orange/tan colored. It's not too surprising that heating/cooling has knocked some more junk loose. I need to change the mix for winter time, so I'll probably wait until fall and clean it out good while I'm at it.

By chance, are you removing the upper and lower radiator hoses to flush the radiator and then the engine block?

The engine block is where most of the rust scale will accumulate, settling on the bottom. With a hose nozzle, spray in the bottom port changing angles to loosen the rust scale sediment. You will be surprised how much flushes out if done as described. Flush from both top and bottom repeatedly, for both radiator and engine block.

For radiator coolant and for a rust preventative during summer use, I am using 'Water Wetter and Water' mix only.

Back to topic, nice pre-air filter sock.

 

[Ginormous]

rhett -- no I didn't pull the hoses off the engine block and spray in. Just sprayed/drained the radiator. Maybe I'll do that.

 

[clemsonfor]

filter i got from hoye was with some oil filters and a few other things i cant remember now but included some lynch pins, but anyway i ordered it for when i needed it. I put it in toward the end of last summer after reading on here that the original yanmar filters were a wahable cloth. Not sure if this is correct or not but i did like someone else mentioned and since i had the original yanmar y on mine i put it in the shed if at a point i cant get the correct replacement (which i doubt will happen as these things are so popular and there is a market for them, if we keep buying) filter one day. Any dealers or others know if this is the truth?

I also noticed that on the Hoye site they list theirs as a cloth type filter not paper, but dont say its washable.

 

[284 International]

The Outerwear pre-filter looks good. They are awesome, and work really well. They intercept a significant amount of particles, from sand and larger dust particles on up. If you keep them free of oil or grease almost everything just sloughs off, too, so you don't even need to clean them off really. Nice work.

 

[clemsonfor]

How did you tighten the hose clamp tight around that rubber hose?

 

[Ginormous]

How did you tighten the hose clamp tight around that rubber hose?

I'm not sure I understand your question. The simple answer is that I tightened the hose clamp until it was tight. When I first put it on, I didn't have a hose clamp of the right size, so I used a couple of rubber bands. I thought it would fall off, but that was enough to keep it in place. The hose clamp is MUCH better than the rubber bands. :thumbsup: