62D MMM Creating Divots with Front Wheels
- Thread starter papaw
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B8FISH
Platinum Member
OK-here is the process described by my dealer.
1)Have your dealer submit a DTAC case to John Deere--describe problem, and include serial number of deck.
2) JD should respond with the fix (grease zerks and washers), and a case # for your dealer to use.
3) they order parts and install.
I guess if they "look in the system" they won't find it, they need to submit a case on your behalf. If your dealership has multiple 2520/62D's sold--like mine--then they may be aware of the issue (submitted case for other owners?).
I just got mine back and finished mowing--big difference, no ruts, and it is really wet here--couldn't do the whole lawn.
1)Have your dealer submit a DTAC case to John Deere--describe problem, and include serial number of deck.
2) JD should respond with the fix (grease zerks and washers), and a case # for your dealer to use.
3) they order parts and install.
I guess if they "look in the system" they won't find it, they need to submit a case on your behalf. If your dealership has multiple 2520/62D's sold--like mine--then they may be aware of the issue (submitted case for other owners?).
I just got mine back and finished mowing--big difference, no ruts, and it is really wet here--couldn't do the whole lawn.
TOYBARN
New member
Send the 62D back to the dealer, I'm returning my deck for a refund . I've only have had my new 2520 less than two weeks (16 hrs on meter) and only used it less than one hour for mowing. Very disappointed with their new deck design. I have wasted one afternoon setting the deck up correctly(deck pitch was 1" high in the rear from dealer) reset to 1/4" and mowed. Reset it again to 1/8" and mowed some more. Same result: stragglers (multiple grass blades uncut) left across the entire mowed swath. Tried doulble cutting and same result. (Note to readers this is my third JD in the past 10 years (455, 4100 & new 2520)). Also deck is leaving debris trails behind each blade while mowing ;along with the divot damage on the lawn.My 60" MMM's worked flawlessly for over 1,000 hours without any of the above issues (++lift linkage isssues I had in less than 1 hour mowing++).
FINAL THOUGHTS: 62d
- 60mmm Now looking for a slightly used commercial ZTR as a replacement.I went to my dealer and told them about the issue with the 62D MMM. They have not heard anything about it. 2 parts guys searched the system for an existing DTAC regarding the 62D but could not find one. So, they are submitting a DTAC for my 62D. We'll see what happens...
For those with the lawn gouging problems on the 62D MMM....
My dealer has been working with me on this issue since my mower's arrival in August. He said JD was working out a solution. Two weeks ago the service guy came out and installed new front wheels on the deck. It looks like a change from flat face wheels to curved or rounded face wheels. They also added grease fittings to allow the caster to operate more freely. My guess is that this will resolve the issue, but I won't be able to tell you how it works until April - the grass is under a foot of snow right now.....
Fud
My dealer has been working with me on this issue since my mower's arrival in August. He said JD was working out a solution. Two weeks ago the service guy came out and installed new front wheels on the deck. It looks like a change from flat face wheels to curved or rounded face wheels. They also added grease fittings to allow the caster to operate more freely. My guess is that this will resolve the issue, but I won't be able to tell you how it works until April - the grass is under a foot of snow right now.....
Fud
Dutch445
Elite Member
Fud,
thanks for the update,,,, would it be possible to post a picture
of the new wheels?
and congrats on the snow!
we are green, wet, and still thawed here. no ice on any ponds
or lake, no white stuff, and no cold air. good for heating bills,
but bad for any winter businesses,,, ski areas, snowmobiles, plow
guys, etc.
thanks for the update,,,, would it be possible to post a picture
of the new wheels?
and congrats on the snow!
we are green, wet, and still thawed here. no ice on any ponds
or lake, no white stuff, and no cold air. good for heating bills,
but bad for any winter businesses,,, ski areas, snowmobiles, plow
guys, etc.
stuarth
Gold Member
How would it work without any wheels? No ones mentioned the deck has done any damage and since the wheels are doing all the damage and not doing what they were intended to do!!! Just an idea...
I will try to grab some photos in the next day or two....then bear with me as I attempt to learn how to post them!
This past fall I did try just keeping the wheels up and I was surprised how well it worked inspite of my rolling/bumpy lawn. I expected lots of scalping and got next to none. However, I am not a lawn manicurist, so for those who are fussy about their grass they may want to test it themselves.
-----caution, small rant ahead--------
I could operate with the wheels up, but have been pushing the issue with my dealer from the beginning. It is because I expect things to work as stated, especially when paying as much as you do for Green. To my way of thinking the more of us that keep holding manufacturers accountible for good products, the better products we'll get.
Fud
This past fall I did try just keeping the wheels up and I was surprised how well it worked inspite of my rolling/bumpy lawn. I expected lots of scalping and got next to none. However, I am not a lawn manicurist, so for those who are fussy about their grass they may want to test it themselves.
-----caution, small rant ahead--------
I could operate with the wheels up, but have been pushing the issue with my dealer from the beginning. It is because I expect things to work as stated, especially when paying as much as you do for Green. To my way of thinking the more of us that keep holding manufacturers accountible for good products, the better products we'll get.
Fud
RollTideRam
Veteran Member
I am going to try and take mine in tomorrow to hopefully get the front bracket on my 62d fixed. I am tired of having to use a hammer to reinstall my mower. I will ask about the wheels again. Thanks for the info, JC
Dutch445
Elite Member
Roll Tide,
We had one go out with the front bracket as yours was, until we had
to swap out hood guards (due to a change in design). Once we did that,
I think the brackets for the mower (which can quickly adapt to snowblower) fit much better and the customer was happy he didn't have to use force to
get his front draft assembly on and off.
We had one go out with the front bracket as yours was, until we had
to swap out hood guards (due to a change in design). Once we did that,
I think the brackets for the mower (which can quickly adapt to snowblower) fit much better and the customer was happy he didn't have to use force to
get his front draft assembly on and off.
B8FISH
Platinum Member
RollTide--mine was tough to get on too, until the "mower deck expert" at the dealership adjusted it, then it went pretty smoothly. I believe it was just some tweaking to the adjusting nuts in front. The "fix" for the wheels did definitely help the divot problem BTW.
If I've done it right, there should be an attachment of the modificaitons that were made to my 62D MMM by the dealer. It looks like the wheel was swapped out and a grease fitting added. The dealer said this wasn't generally available from JD yet, but some number retrofits like this have been sent out on a trial basis.
We'll let you know how it works in the spring.
Fud
We'll let you know how it works in the spring.
Fud
Attachments
Dutch445
Elite Member
thanks for the pic Fud,
but I can't see the difference in the wheel in
your picture,
you said it was a different wheel, that was more
rounded?
(not as much of a square shoulder?)
but I can't see the difference in the wheel in
your picture,
you said it was a different wheel, that was more
rounded?
(not as much of a square shoulder?)
Dutch, did yours have curved face wheels to begin with? Sorry that I didn't have a "before" and "after" picture for you.
Perhaps mine was an oddity, but the face of the original caster wheels (the surface in contact with the ground) was flat, not curved. That meant if the wheel was turned at all from the direction the mower was traveling and the wheel made contact with the ground, the egde of the wheel would occasionally cut a nice furrow in the ground rather that castering to be in line with direction of travel. Now with the curved faced wheels, if that same situation occurs, the wheel should more gracefully skid over the ground with out damage.
I'm stretching my memory without having the mower nearby, but I think originally it had the same wheels on the back and the front.
Finally, the addition of the grease fitting should allow the caster to operate more freely.
Hope that helps.
fud
Perhaps mine was an oddity, but the face of the original caster wheels (the surface in contact with the ground) was flat, not curved. That meant if the wheel was turned at all from the direction the mower was traveling and the wheel made contact with the ground, the egde of the wheel would occasionally cut a nice furrow in the ground rather that castering to be in line with direction of travel. Now with the curved faced wheels, if that same situation occurs, the wheel should more gracefully skid over the ground with out damage.
I'm stretching my memory without having the mower nearby, but I think originally it had the same wheels on the back and the front.
Finally, the addition of the grease fitting should allow the caster to operate more freely.
Hope that helps.
fud
Dutch445
Elite Member
no, those wheels look like much more of a rounded profile,
should help a lot in reducing the divots,,, next year will be
a good test,, keep us posted!
should help a lot in reducing the divots,,, next year will be
a good test,, keep us posted!
RollTideRam
Veteran Member
Another update on this subject. I took my tractor and deck to the dealer in January. This was the 3rd trip for the wheel problems. They forgot to do the DTAC and after I talked to them again they did it in February. They called a few weeks ago and said my parts were in. I picked them up, and all I got was a set of new rounder wheels. They don't have a zerk fitting in the wheel like the old ones. I did not get any response about a zerk fitting for the shaft the wheel goes on. The right side shaft, where the grass/dust comes out is the one that I have to use penetrating oil on every time I mow, to keep it moving freely. I will install the wheels today, but don't think they will solve the problem. After four 60 mile round trips just for the stinking mower wheels, I'm getting a little discouraged with this mowing deck. I wish I had kept my x475 and not traded it in. I'm pretty sure they won't take it back now. JC
I have been following this thead ever since I started it as well as checking Deere for any movement on a solution. Some have stated their dealer said there was a "fix" and some have reported implementation of one. However, when asked for the part numbers or the tech bulletin no one ever responded with specifics. The reason IMHO is that there is no fix or tech bulletin. In the meantime, Deere has introduced drive over mount mowers in their L&G line. The front wheels on these mowers are the ballon type (round corners) and do have a zerk on the spindle. It also appears that the rake/offset is more extreme than the implementation on the CUT drive over MMM. Most likely as mowing season begins for most of the country, this discussion group will "light up" with more complaints by CUT users of the 62D. My recommendation is to complain loud and often to Deere. Only if the uproar is loud enough will it be heard and see Deere fix this issue.
kwolfe
Platinum Member
OK, bear with me because I am really trying to think outside the box here. From the last picture, it does not appear that you can move the wheel back any further without some serious fabrication. My solution, all be it a strech, is another attempt to try and move the wheel contact point the the rear of the pivot point.
In the attached picture, I have drawn on what I am talking about. Remove the bolt and nut that hold on the wheel. install a spring tine (like ones from a dethacher) on either side. When you retighten the bolts, ensure that the tines are pressed firmly against the ground. Where they make contact with the ground should produce a similar effect to have the wheel touch back there. Therefore, when you go to make a turn, the tine will catch and want to spin the wheel.
OK, I'm done. Feel free to rip apart as you see fit.
In the attached picture, I have drawn on what I am talking about. Remove the bolt and nut that hold on the wheel. install a spring tine (like ones from a dethacher) on either side. When you retighten the bolts, ensure that the tines are pressed firmly against the ground. Where they make contact with the ground should produce a similar effect to have the wheel touch back there. Therefore, when you go to make a turn, the tine will catch and want to spin the wheel.
OK, I'm done. Feel free to rip apart as you see fit.
