Haywire
Veteran Member
Ok Ok... I'll go separate the busses on the sub panel. Shouldn't take long anyway. 
220A welding circuit question
- Thread starter wstf2
- Start date
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Ok Ok... I'll go separate the busses on the sub panel. Shouldn't take long anyway.
You really need to be safe and get yourself a set of Code Check books.
This is the link.
Code Check: Building, Plumbing, Electrical (Taunton)
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
not to be a stick in the mud, but not too many years ago the code didnt care if subpanels had the grounds and neutrals tied together AS LONG AS A GROUND WIRE DID NOT CONECT THE TWO PANELS. In other words, if only 3 wires are run between the main panel and the sub panel, and the sub panel has its own ground rods, then its OK to leave the neutral bus gand the ground nus bonded together that way.
I have installed many of these kinds of panels over the years. Its the newer codes (i think the 2005 was the first) that required a separate ground wire run with the 2 hots and the neutral that started the isolated neutral bar issue.
I have installed many of these kinds of panels over the years. Its the newer codes (i think the 2005 was the first) that required a separate ground wire run with the 2 hots and the neutral that started the isolated neutral bar issue.
You really need to be safe and get yourself a set of Code Check books.
This is the link.
I will say it again,
Code Check: Building, Plumbing, Electrical (Taunton)
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
??? ive been a electrician for 30 years guy...... just because the codes change DOESNT MEAN that all the older installations are no longer valid. AS LONG as you dont change or upgrade the panels, you dont need to change the old systems as long as they were installed per the code that was in place at the time of installation.
hr3
Veteran Member
Are you selling code books ???
If you have an artical you want to Quote from the 2011 code then " Quote It"
Last edited:
Haywire
Veteran Member
Are you selling code books ???
Article. :thumbsup:
When I put in my welding setup, what I did was the following:
-50A 2 pole breaker connected to a 60A manual cutoff switch
-This was all connected with 3/0 gauge cable (believe me, it was a pain in the backside to pull that cable...)
-This was then connected to another 50A 2 pole breaker in the garage (which also serves as the garage's welding socket power switch), which was then connected to a 250v welding socket
It all sounds like overkill for a 230V/50A setup, but we got the cable at a huge discount for some reason, otherwise it would have broken the bank .
Now regarding the OP's question, there were two hot lines and of course a ground line. Wiring was straightforward. The only difficult part of the whole install was pulling that darn cable!
-50A 2 pole breaker connected to a 60A manual cutoff switch
-This was all connected with 3/0 gauge cable (believe me, it was a pain in the backside to pull that cable...)
-This was then connected to another 50A 2 pole breaker in the garage (which also serves as the garage's welding socket power switch), which was then connected to a 250v welding socket
It all sounds like overkill for a 230V/50A setup, but we got the cable at a huge discount for some reason, otherwise it would have broken the bank
. Now regarding the OP's question, there were two hot lines and of course a ground line. Wiring was straightforward. The only difficult part of the whole install was pulling that darn cable!
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
When I put in my welding setup, what I did was the following:
-50A 2 pole breaker connected to a 60A manual cutoff switch
-This was all connected with 3/0 gauge cable (believe me, it was a pain in the backside to pull that cable...)
-This was then connected to another 50A 2 pole breaker in the garage (which also serves as the garage's welding socket power switch), which was then connected to a 250v welding socket
It all sounds like overkill for a 230V/50A setup, but we got the cable at a huge discount for some reason, otherwise it would have broken the bank
Now regarding the OP's question, there were two hot lines and of course a ground line. Wiring was straightforward. The only difficult part of the whole install was pulling that darn cable!
man, you should pull that 3/0 copper and scraqp it out...you could retire hehe :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:. Last time i scrapped out a bunch of 3/0 and 4/0 copper, i made $1,400.00 and bought me a metel roller and box brake
SSdoxie
Elite Member
Yep, could sold the #3 bought some #6 and still had enough left to get a few cases of cold brew to celebrate after wiring was done.:laughing:
Snaker
Silver Member
Iv'e got nothing to add on the technicalities here but one of the best explanations I've heard about neutral/ground was:
Neutral (grounded) wire is a working wire and carries current.
Ground (grounding) is a safety wire and does nothing but sit there waiting to save you.
Some earlier posts made mention of feeling uncomfortable with a bare wire ground and would rather have it insulated. A bare wire is actually safer because it has the "potential" to contact and ground more conductive materials (not hot wires hopefully) along its route than an insulated wire. In electricity ground=safe.
Neutral (grounded) wire is a working wire and carries current.
Ground (grounding) is a safety wire and does nothing but sit there waiting to save you.
Some earlier posts made mention of feeling uncomfortable with a bare wire ground and would rather have it insulated. A bare wire is actually safer because it has the "potential" to contact and ground more conductive materials (not hot wires hopefully) along its route than an insulated wire. In electricity ground=safe.
crazyal
Super Member
I know what you mean. At work there are some 8" copper air lines that must have been installed back in the 50s or maybe 60s. I've never seen copper that big. Each time I look at it I wonder just how much I could get for it. :laughing:
