I did. Thoroughly.I understand it perfectly if you bothered to read my comment, which you obviously did not.
Depends on what you're "upgrading". IDI (Indirect Injection) engines aren't very accommodating for increasing power: there are some exceptions; I really only know of one: Mercedes OM606 [and that family]. Don't know about tractors and turbos (but I _DO_ know a little about such with road vehicles) but there's more than just adding a turbo- was the bottom end designed/spec'd to handle the increased torque, can the exhaust (and intake) really handle the increased flows and are you really able to properly control boost and EGTs?I did. Thoroughly.
It just doesn’t make sense, financially speaking.
Why would I ‘upgrade’ to a new tractor when Turbocharging my current tractor is cheaper. Less overall total tractor investment, with more power and same operating weight.
Mike
Depends on what you're "upgrading". IDI (Indirect Injection) engines aren't very accommodating for increasing power: there are some exceptions; I really only know of one: Mercedes OM606 [and that family]. Don't know about tractors and turbos (but I _DO_ know a little about such with road vehicles) but there's more than just adding a turbo- was the bottom end designed/spec'd to handle the increased torque, can the exhaust (and intake) really handle the increased flows and are you really able to properly control boost and EGTs?
Many manufacturers today have given model groups that offer a range of power. In this case IF attachments and frames and drivetrains are basically the same then all will work together then bumping power is possible (likely one is looking to have to tweak the ECU [if one exists- more and more this is the case]),
Less HP _can_ work for many things, just takes longer. My 30hp small-frame B7800 has done an amazing amount of work; stuff that I cannot pick up to move I push around. I've done things that no larger tractor could do. That this machine is an IDI and has no emissions equipment (one can really tell when operating it- and it being an open station really makes it clear after operating my Kioti); IF there were one just like it that could do everything that this one does but it had emissions equipment I wouldn't care.
Buy for 80+% of what you think you need. There will always be things that you need more power for but it should be very infrequent and in such cases RENT the power. Having too much machine means a lot more cost for maintenance and repairs: bigger equipment can also more readily destroy things you don't want to destroy (larger accidents)!
I've got about 870 hrs on my [2016] Kioti. I run it like I run all my equipment: I make it work. No engine or drivetrain issues: dealer did have to reseal rear diff cases under warranty (I've got hundreds of hours since then and all is holding up fine). There's only been TWO instances of my tractor running a regen when I was wanting to stop working- I just found more stuff to do and did them; in the entire scheme of things this is a total non-issue over the course of all these hours. Entropy will polish off EVERYTHING, eventually: it'll most likely finish off ME before it gets my Kioti.
Regarding HSTs, it depends on how you have to work. I would not have anything else on my property (even my Polaris UTV is hydrostatic). I have no significant slopes and I have a lot of things to have to navigate. I have no ideological blinders in this regard. I seek out the right tools for the job that _I_ have. I have no allegiance to a "brand" as not all offerings from manufacturers are of the same quality AND stay the same over time.
Sometimes you just have to suck it up and move forward. I did that with my Kioti and found myself banging my head for quite a while in the beginning (leaking cab and some other issues) but over time this machine as proven itself to be exactly what I wanted and what I needed. Would I buy the same machine today? I'd have to research to determine that. Last I looked there wasn't a law that said that if you buy something that you are stuck with it for life. If it turns out it's not what you needed then sell and buy something else: if one does due diligence in defining requirements then one isn't likely going to miss the mark to the degree that one has to turn over equipment in a meaningfully shorter period of time than one was expecting. You'll take a financial hit for sure but how much of a financial hit are you taking by waiting to buy something? Time is money... (one can always get more money but one cannot get more time)
You or your dealer gets them cleaned and the stuff inside (burned up soot) goes to a hazardous waste landfill. Most dealers don't have the cleaning machine so they send them out. The truck dealership I retired from bought one of the machines (very expensive) and had a steady diet from other dealers and shops for cleaning. The 'no good' rejected ones went to the landfill, same one that accepted the soot. The machine they had cleaned many filters before the machine got full enough to empty and send to the landfill but included in the cleaning was a charge for disposal anyway...One concern for me about DPF is on the one hand it is supposed to be good for preventing air pollution, yet it traps particles in a filter that the EPA views as hazardous waste??? What do you do with used DPF filters and how much does it cost to dispose of them?
Not entirely. My pre-emissionsI'm also guessing all the electronics are there mostly to make the tractor meet emissions standards?
Exactly! Buy the tractor that best suits what you NEED and be willing to WORK it. Buying a 50 HP tractor to pull the kids around in their wagon will ensure that the tractor sits at the dealer getting repaired.Rich,
You should get a tractor that can do the work and tasks you want to do, in the time you want to do it in.
If you're buying a 25hp tractor only to eliminate emissions, but in reality what you need is a 40-50hp tractor for the work and attachments you have, how is that a good idea? you'll be back trading in and trading up in hp before you know it.
Buy the best fit of equipment for the work you need done, and hang all this worry and wort about the emissions stuff. Most folks have no trouble at all with theirs. Just run it like you're supposed to, keep the rpms up, and keep the filter hot.
There are different ways to achieve T4 and Mahindra chose to use a bunch of EGR.Well, regarding DPF's, Mahindra does not use them on the majority of their tractors. From a vendor site:
IS IT TRUE THAT MAHINDRA TRACTORS DON’T HAVE A DPF (DIESEL PARTICULATE FILTER)?
Nearly all of Mahindra’s tractor models in their Compact Utility (series 1600, 2600, 3600, and 4500) and Utility (series 5500, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000) lineups do not have diesel particulate filters. This is because Mahindra’s mCRD engine eliminates the need for a DPF and never requires high-temperature burn-offs, which is a maintenance task that often gets forgotten by owners and tractor operators.
Might be worth considering. The series listed above, run the gamut from 26 HP to 71 HP tractors (1600 - 6000 series). Cheers!
I seem to recall Ford had issues with one of the versions of the Powerstroke. A friend of mine said you had to remove the egr and they were fine after that.^^^^
And the overuse of EGR typically results in a massive buildup of carbon and soot over time in diesel engines negatively impacting engine performance and efficiency.
Mike
Ford has had issues with every model of powerstroke except for the original IH 7.4L.I seem to recall Ford had issues with one of the versions of the Powerstroke. A friend of mine said you had to remove the egr and they were fine after that.