Electrical / romex mess

[buckeyefarmer]

If that is direct bury uf cable, and not romex, you can dig backwards both directions and use accessible junction box . Place 1 j box at both ends. No problem using underground rated weatherproof wirenuts. Totally legal. Now if the wire is plain old house romex...THATS ANOTHER ISSUE.

I would do this I think. Ground level j box.

 

[the old grind]

If there are light switches at both ends of the run one cable would be NM3-WGUG or something. M first look said UF by lack of paper and the crease/groove in the jacket that indoor wire would not have. I like the idea of pulling the wire from one end & routing back from the other end to a single splice. Phone man used a bryable setup with a canister to enclose the splice and a two-part mix that expanded sealed, and oozed out the ends. Multiple lines in conduit risk inductive coupling/anomalies.

I have nothing bad to say about how the original work was done. I've dug into jobs that were a real 'mess' from the git but lasted for decades w/o failing. This doesn't look like a sticky one at all. If you plan to add anything, now's the time if you're 'going in'. (light sw at both ends, second 110v line, etc) btw, our 'frost depth' is 42" for footings, posts etc. For single UF cable deeper than 10" seems to be plenty from what I've laid/dug in 25 yrs.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Gray UF on right

 

[JPRambo]

Second wire that's hot is GFCI protected for outlet on light pole?

 

[plowhog]

More info: I believe it is UF romex-- there is no paper and it looks just like the pictured one. I can excavate the exposed wire back to the inner wall, then turn it up into a (new) box with no splicing.

Both romex wires are connected to the same breaker. One is switched (the former light circuit) and one is always hot. Both are connected to the same breaker-- a 15amp Square D arc fault breaker.

 

[MossRoad]

More info: I believe it is UF romex-- there is no paper and it looks just like the pictured one. I can excavate the exposed wire back to the inner wall, then turn it up into a (new) box with no splicing.

Both romex wires are connected to the same breaker. One is switched (the former light circuit) and one is always hot. Both are connected to the same breaker-- a 15amp Square D arc fault breaker.

Yikes.

 

[plowhog]

Yikes.

Correction: both are switched by the same breaker. I didn't mean to imply there were multiple leads coming out of the breaker ...

 

[MossRoad]

Correction: both are switched by the same breaker. I didn't mean to imply there were multiple leads coming out of the breaker ...

Whew. Good. In our current (there's a pun there) house, I found a couple breakers with two wires shoved in them. Grrrr...

 

[the old grind]

Moss, it can be another way of adding low demand circuits w/o tapping in or branching lights or wall outlets down-line of the original connections. As long as the fuse protects any wire therein there isn't necessarily any hazard. Upgrades can look 'messier' than they truly are in good practice or code acceptance. That said, it's always better to be cautious than at room temperature within an hour of guessing what's safe or not sans knowledge.

 

[4570Man]

Whew. Good. In our current (there's a pun there) house, I found a couple breakers with two wires shoved in them. Grrrr...

If that doesn’t work just strip back a wire without cutting it and then wrap the second wire around it. Wrap with asbestos electric tape and it’s as good as it gets. Lol. I’m kidding about the splice job but I’m kinda upset I can’t buy any asbestos tape. That stuff was awesome. I’ve seen it on work from the 40s or possibly earlier and it still looked good.

 

[MossRoad]

Moss, it can be another way of adding low demand circuits w/o tapping in or branching lights or wall outlets down-line of the original connections. As long as the fuse protects any wire therein there isn't necessarily any hazard. Upgrades can look 'messier' than they truly are in good practice or code acceptance. That said, it's always better to be cautious than at room temperature within an hour of guessing what's safe or not sans knowledge.

The guy shaved down the wires so he could squeeze them into the terminal on the beaker.

 

[the old grind]

Electricians use 'pig-tails' accordingly and ususally per local or NEC compliance/codes. DIY-ers tend to go by what 'looks' ok pysically. There isn't much to learn to get or verify things are 'right'. "Ugly s__" might be more ok than it appears when inspecting/evaluating old work.

 

[plowhog]

The romex in question is probably the only "original" wire left that was not removed when I demolished the former house and built a new residence two years ago. And-- it's connected to the only arc fault breaker in this particular circuit breaker panel. All other breakers are traditional type. (I have several circuit breaker panels.)

Q- would the electrician have chosen an arc fault breaker for this circuit because it involved direct bury wire? Seems more than a coincidence that its the only arc fault breaker in an entire panel?

 

[builderguy420]

We have a light on a pole in our driveway. Its in a center circle bordered by pavers. I want to replace the light with a water feature.

I turned power off, removed the light and pole, and found two romex lines. One was still hot (don't ask!) They are about 2 feet below current grade, and about 3 feet below what the new grade will be.

I need to move these lines as the new water feature would be sitting right on top of them. I wish they were long enough to get to an electrical box on the edge of the circle, but they are not nearly long enough. And I still need power out there for the new pump.

I know you are not supposed to put romex in conduit. Nor splice wires and have electric junction boxes underground. But I'm stumped on what else to do?

Any ideas?
View attachment 701068

Totally redo that entire segment with conduit. You are risking a lot with romex in the ground. I had to tear up a section that I ran using the correct underground cable, but when I sold the house, the inspector said it is required to be in conduit. Dig 20 inches, 2 inches of sand, conduit, morfe sand to cover and then tape for digsafe.

Jeff

 

[grsthegreat]

Totally redo that entire segment with conduit. You are risking a lot with romex in the ground. I had to tear up a section that I ran using the correct underground cable, but when I sold the house, the inspector said it is required to be in conduit. Dig 20 inches, 2 inches of sand, conduit, morfe sand to cover and then tape for digsafe.

Jeff

That’s real overdone for a 20 amp circuit. This is hardly even done for a 200 amp circuit here in idaho. The depth is correct but we only use natural fill that was dug out when trenching. Commercial jobs require bedding pipe. Since its only a fountain I really would not worry about it except I’d make junctions in box. If really worried about it swap ark fault breaker for a GFCI breaker. Then don’t lose any sleep over it.

 

[rangerrzr]

We have a light on a pole in our driveway. Its in a center circle bordered by pavers. I want to replace the light with a water feature.

I turned power off, removed the light and pole, and found two romex lines. One was still hot (don't ask!) They are about 2 feet below current grade, and about 3 feet below what the new grade will be.

I need to move these lines as the new water feature would be sitting right on top of them. I wish they were long enough to get to an electrical box on the edge of the circle, but they are not nearly long enough. And I still need power out there for the new pump.

I know you are not supposed to put romex in conduit. Nor splice wires and have electric junction boxes underground. But I'm stumped on what else to do?

Any ideas?
View attachment 701068

ok, before I get lit up (see what I did there) I have used these. Direct Burial UF Cable Splice Kit with Heat Shrink, 14/3 in. to 8/3 i. Wire Range-SKDB - The Home Depot Any Electricians here want to chime in, please do.

 

[ruralNearDallas]

Looks like UF to me which can be direct buried or in electrical pvc. Either UF or "Romex" can be in conduit. No concerns with heating .... unless current ratings for the wire size is exceeded.

But, yes, all junctions should be accessible for maintenance for your own benefit. Some work might need to be done and if the junctions are buried, then what.

On the other hand, if you make a splice that you know is 100% electrically good, and 100% insulated, and 100% mechanically good and 100% won't need access, and you own all this, then I would be fine with it.

All the rules and such are to protect the owners and users.

If you are worried about resale some day. Just before selling the property, you can disconnect the whole thing.

 

[grsthegreat]

ok, before I get lit up (see what I did there) I have used these. Direct Burial UF Cable Splice Kit with Heat Shrink, 14/3 in. to 8/3 i. Wire Range-SKDB - The Home Depot Any Electricians here want to chime in, please do.

He wants to move the circuits. I have used heat shrink repairs in the past, not to a great success. They do make a kit that utilizes epoxy after splice is done. Those work great, but pretty expensive. Also, all splices are supposed to be accessible.

 

[norm123]

I'm with grsthegreat, whatever you do end up doing, put in a GFCI breaker at the panel. All outdoor wiring should have one anyway, then its protected no matter what.

 

[alylea]

ok, before I get lit up (see what I did there) I have used these. Direct Burial UF Cable Splice Kit with Heat Shrink, 14/3 in. to 8/3 i. Wire Range-SKDB - The Home Depot Any Electricians here want to chime in, please do.

I have used these before and will use them at my daughters house this weekend. Thanks for the damage, landscape guys... Commercial Electric 1/Clam Heat-Shrink UF Splice Kit-EB0301-000 - The Home Depot