My work shop build in progress

[Xfaxman]

 

[EddieWalker]

I've always wanted an Anvil, but never really had a use for one. But I still want one because they are really cool!!!!

 

[Frank Surber]

I've always wanted an Anvil, but never really had a use for one. But I still want one because they are really cool!!!!

My truck driver friend who is always showing up with things knew that the one I had years ago wound up being left in Kuwait when I moved back to Texas and knew I needed or wanted one
He was watching an online auction saw it and at the last minute out bid and won it I'm not aware of or concerned with country of origin though I believe it to be somewhere in Eastern Europe not western Asia it is brand new weighs 400 LBS. has a 1 1/4" Hardy and a 7/8" pritchel made of cast steel and has an induction hardened face It is modeled closely but not perfectly after an 1800s Peter Wright. But who cares REALLY? It is probably made better than that of old and it will outlast me and several generations after me anyway.

 

[ovrszd]

A man can get great satisfaction from beating the snot out of something on an anvil. Nothing like it. I have a smaller, maybe 125lb Peter Wright. I use it 3-4 times a year. Nothing in the shop replaces it.

 

[dragoneggs]

I've always wanted an Anvil, but never really had a use for one. But I still want one because they are really cool!!!!

Me too! If I had one I would find a way to use it though. I would start by building a forge and then probably do some serious online learning. Some metal gate work and garden art for sure.

 

[Big Barn]

My truck driver friend who is always showing up with things knew that the one I had years ago wound up being left in Kuwait when I moved back to Texas and knew I needed or wanted one
He was watching an online auction saw it and at the last minute out bid and won it I'm not aware of or concerned with country of origin though I believe it to be somewhere in Eastern Europe not western Asia it is brand new weighs 400 LBS. has a 1 1/4" Hardy and a 7/8" pritchel made of cast steel and has an induction hardened face It is modeled closely but not perfectly after an 1800s Peter Wright. But who cares REALLY? It is probably made better than that of old and it will outlast me and several generations after me anyway.

Nice Frank.

 

[Big Barn]

I would start by building a forge and then probably do some serious online learning. Some metal gate work and garden art for sure.

And I have a nice selection of finials and caps if you do !

 

[ovrszd]

And I have a nice selection of finials and caps if you do !

Man I wish you were my neighbor.

 

[dragoneggs]

Man I wish you were my neighbor.

Yeah I'm lucky... Terry is only a couple hour drive and a 90min ferry for me! Of course there is the pesky border crossing.:smiley_aafz:

 

[Frank Surber]

had a trailer load of things show up last night.
some for the shop some for repair some just because I wanted them




of course this was what one of my dogs thought about the stuff

everyone should have a PTO driven 15 KW generator I guess


Now I get a post hole digger LOL

 

[Frank Surber]

Over 2 years of adding the red sandy clay fill to the shop floor and it being packed down over and over had turned it almost into sand stone.
But now it is time to break it up for the next step in the process of making it into a durable floor that hopefully will not sluff off dust everytime something hard is dragged across it To do this the fill must first be broken up.

the rake Eddy was dragging behind his little tractor would scratch and scratch and eventually do a pretty good job but not nearly deep enough.
My leveling drag blade was too un wieldy in the confined area given its size plus it would just drag over the super hard spots.
I tried my tandem disk and this broke up some of the area quite well but I needed to bare down with so much force I was destroying it and still couldn't make it penetrate the really hard spots very well.
Even using the teeth on the back hoe bucket took all day to do less than 1/3 of the floor but at least with a lot of banging and only taking short gouging cuts each time it is finally being loosened into large rock like clods that should break up more easily



The box blade I have would have worked well I am sure. However there were 2 problems with trying it #1 was I don't have the ripper teeth for it and #2 my 8n would not have been able to do very well the Case 431 would be the tractor of choice but I haven't had time to work on it

 

[bindian]

Over 2 years of adding the red sandy clay fill to the shop floor and it being packed down over and over had turned it almost into sand stone.
But now it is time to break it up for the next step in the process of making it into a durable floor that hopefully will not sluff off dust everytime something hard is dragged across it To do this the fill must first be broken up.

the rake Eddy was dragging behind his little tractor would scratch and scratch and eventually do a pretty good job but not nearly deep enough.
My leveling drag blade was too un wieldy in the confined area given its size plus it would just drag over the super hard spots.
I tried my tandem disk and this broke up some of the area quite well but I needed to bare down with so much force I was destroying it and still couldn't make it penetrate the really hard spots very well.
Even using the teeth on the back hoe bucket took all day to do less than 1/3 of the floor but at least with a lot of banging and only taking short gouging cuts each time it is finally being loosened into large rock like clods that should break up more easily
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The box blade I have would have worked well I am sure. However there were 2 problems with trying it #1 was I don't have the ripper teeth for it and #2 my 8n would not have been able to do very well the Case 431 would be the tractor of choice but I haven't had time to work on it

But the bucket is so much fun. I have used my backhoe bucket for that task before. It is slow going.
Merry Christmas hugs, Brandi

 

[Frank Surber]

But the bucket is so much fun. I have used my backhoe bucket for that task before. It is slow going.
Merry Christmas hugs, Brandi

Ultimately in order for the enzyme process we are going to blend into the floor to work properly we need to pulverize the fill to the consistency of flour down to a depth of at least 8 inches.
So to accomplish that it will mean tilling it several times after I get it broken up
Another problem could be wind, since the shop is still open on the east and west I could loose 100 cubic yards of fill before we get a chance to blend in the enzyme wet it to a paste then screed it level and roll it back down to pack it in then it will be 30 days before it will reach full hardness.
After that I have heard that it can even be painted to further seal it but I wont no for certain until we try it

 

[Big Barn]

That is so interesting about your floor. Looking forward to progress Frank.

And I love your trailer load of goodies! Early Christmas!!!

 

[pmsmechanic]

Ultimately in order for the enzyme process we are going to blend into the floor to work properly we need to pulverize the fill to the consistency of flour down to a depth of at least 8 inches.

Can you let us know the name/website of this enzyme? This is something that could maybe work in my storage shed.

 

[Frank Surber]

Can you let us know the name/website of this enzyme? This is something that could maybe work in my storage shed.

Its called Perma-Zyme.
https://www.chempoint.com/insights/perma-zyme-enzymatic-soil-stabilizer

 

[ovrszd]

I think the soil type is critical. Intrigues me. Wouldn't work here. Anxious to see results!!

 

[Frank Surber]

I think the soil type is critical. Intrigues me. Wouldn't work here. Anxious to see results!!

Yes there are some requirements as to soil types. I had removed a couple feet of top soil before I started my shop and have back filled with nearly 3 feet of a red sandy clay.
The clay to sand ratio fits almost perfectly with the type of soil they recommend and this stuff already packs down and sets up like sand stone without the enzyme catalyst . the issue is when hard packed and completely devoid of any moisture even though it nearly takes a jack hammer to initially break it up just scraping on it will turn it into very fine dust and if re saturated with water it will become slick as drilling mud the catalyst in the enzyme product is reported to greatly limit and possibly even prevent this since it prevents moisture penetration. I have decided that if it works as touted then I might even add a seal coating of paint on top of it if all goes well hopefully the floor will last until I can afford the nearly 100 cubic yards of concrete it would take to make a proper floor this is one of the reasons I am leaving the surface about 6" below where I wanted the finished grade to be.
$2000.00 for a 5 gallon pail sounds a whole lot more inviting than $17,000.00 for the concrete alone, plus the cost of steel labor for the pour and finishing

 

[bindian]

Thanks Frank! I will be building a 40x60 foot sawmill shed and already have a quote of $17,000 for a concrete slab. I will check out your enzyme and see if it would work here.
Merry Christmas hugs, Brandi

 

[Frank Surber]

Keep in mind even if I have or you have the perfect soil for using the enzyme the surface will not be concrete when finished so it is not a replacement for concrete by any stretch of the imagination.
Just like when folks blend in lime or Portland cement or quantities of sand gravel mix to make what we call Earthcrete it still is not concrete.
I don't know how smooth I will be able to get the surface or even if the normal methods of concrete finishing can be employed.
We are planning on experimenting by following the procedures and their instructions to the letter then after roll packing the floor sometime during the recommended cure time we might ad more of the product and wet the surface then try and trowel the surface. I have read on their forums about this as a possibility so maybe worth a try.