I just got my new tractor today and I got a rear blade for grading and snow removal. It has a detachable/replaceable edge. I want to know if there is a hard rubber blade edge for blacktop roads. It seems the sharp steel edge may damage the asphalt.
Snow Attachments Rear Blade Rubber
- Thread starter Fine409
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RNeumann
Elite Member
Their are several options. A lot of folks make their own out of horse mats, pipe or buy a commercial product. A lot of folks simply spin the blade backwards and run it that way.
Are you in an area that has a layer of snow/ice on the ground all winter or an area that has freeze thaw all winter and the roads are clear down to asphalt between storms?
Are you in an area that has a layer of snow/ice on the ground all winter or an area that has freeze thaw all winter and the roads are clear down to asphalt between storms?
I am in southern Ohio so We get occasional heavy snow. Most of it is 1 to 2 inches and easily removed. I’ve asked the expert on my tractor brand if it has a float option on the three-point on the rear. If it does, that would solve the problem. If it does not, then I don’t want to dig up the asphalt.
All three-point hitches float automatically (with the possible exception of very large Ag tractors that have options for down force on the 3PH).
chim
Elite Member
We cut a strip from a used tire and sandwiched it between the blade and the removable cutting edge for a tractor at work. It is the tread portion of the tire and is much more durable than a cow mat. only cost is labor. The guys love it because the exposed rubber bends out of the way when the blade goes over lumps and bumps.
RjCorazza
Elite Member
I used a light duty 7’ rear blade with steel edge for years without damaging asphalt. It did leave light marks that disappeared in the summer though. 2 years ago I upgraded to a heavier hydraulic angling blade that marked up pavement more than I liked, so I installed a polyurethane cutting edge, which works very well. I used 1 1/2” thick poly, which in hindsight was probably over-kill. 1” would have been adequate for my 400 lb blade.
The disadvantage to poly is the price...
The disadvantage to poly is the price...
msb1766
Platinum Member
I have been using a rear blade on my asphalt driveway for over 10 years with problems or damage, the only thing I did was grind the corners of the blade round,
so when the blade is angled it does not have a sharp corner to dig into the asphalt.
so when the blade is angled it does not have a sharp corner to dig into the asphalt.
That's a good idea. Another thing that will help prevent the corners digging in is to adjust your 3PH lift links so that the blade is perfectly level side-to-side. If it is not level it will cause one of the corners to hang down when you angle the blade. When it's level you can angle it 45-degrees without the corners digging in.
CobyRupert
Super Member
...or let the "tilt" function of the blade float too. That is, if it has manual tilt pull the pin; or hydraulic tilt use the SCV that has a float position. This will keep the blade level if the ground isn't flat.
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msb1766
Platinum Member
I also replaced the side links with chain so it the blade will float and not bind.
CobyRupert
Super Member
Hmmm, I've never heard of that. What do you mean by side links? The linkage that lifts the lift arms/draft link (called lift arm leveling assembly on this picture)?
msb1766
Platinum Member
In the picture posted above I replaced Lift Arm Leveling Assembly with chain.
CobyRupert
Super Member
I understand that this allows the lift arms to ride up above their set point (-chains goes slack), but not below the level you set them at.
...but....
..most 3 point hitches have no down force. Wouldn't your 3 point hitch do this anyways (with solid links)?
That is, if you grab at where the top of your chains connect (at the rockshaft (?) that rotates up to lift the chains ), can't you rotate this up without moving any control levers?
chim
Elite Member
So far the fixed length parts of my 3PH haven't been a problem. All three scraper blades of mine have enough slop added up in the connections between the blade and the rear axle that they allow for plenty of movement to follow the surface I'm running over. I use the 3PH dropped all the way and allow the blade to float. One end of the blade could likely be 6" higher than the other.
IF somehow all the play could be eliminated, the lift arms do move together, so I guess chains could be useful. I can't think of anywhere other than one of those test tracks used for testing shock absorbers where the surface so close behind the tractor's rear wheels could be uneven enough relative to the rear axle to matter.
IF somehow all the play could be eliminated, the lift arms do move together, so I guess chains could be useful. I can't think of anywhere other than one of those test tracks used for testing shock absorbers where the surface so close behind the tractor's rear wheels could be uneven enough relative to the rear axle to matter.
jwalk2c
Member
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- Claremont NC
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- Ford 1520- 1987, Deere Track Loader 455G- 1997, Wheel horse C160 x 3 , 418-8 , 314-8
I used horse mat from TSC .
Longer bolts to bolt it in front of the existing cutting edge. I made mine to thick (hangs down about 4" below cutting edge and sometimes folds back under but still functions.
If I redesigned I would allow the material to only protrude 1 inch below steel cutting edge. Btw, use a box cutter to cut. Don't try the hard method as I did using an air cutoff wheel and just make a mess.
Box cutter with a sharp blade and several passes works fine.
I think there is a pic of another one somewhere on this site.
Longer bolts to bolt it in front of the existing cutting edge. I made mine to thick (hangs down about 4" below cutting edge and sometimes folds back under but still functions.
If I redesigned I would allow the material to only protrude 1 inch below steel cutting edge. Btw, use a box cutter to cut. Don't try the hard method as I did using an air cutoff wheel and just make a mess.
Box cutter with a sharp blade and several passes works fine.
I think there is a pic of another one somewhere on this site.
jmc
Elite Member
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- SW Indiana
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- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
Good point on the wear resistance. How did you cut the tread portion off and keep a straight edge that sits flat on the ground? I've got a steep, paved drive with about 1/2 inch deep tracks all the way up where the asphalt deformed under tire pressure. I'm looking for a "squeegee-plow".
