Hydraulics - 3ord function loader port for blade angling

[Carl_NH]

If you need that hitch, cut off the receiver hitch and move it back flush with the SSQA frame, or leave it off all together.

You could also mount the receiver hitch on the top of the cross piece on the SSQA which may allow it to clear the blade cross piece. I would not modify the blade cross member.

 

[FlyFishn]

With as old and already hacked apart the blade is, well before we got it even, Im not a bit shy of doing more fabrication on it. I will for the hydraulic cylinder for the angling anyway.

Id rather not hack apart the adapter. And the receiver tube will be used.

 

[shooterdon]

Re: 3 point adapter to loader mount -

I ordered the unit from Ebay (link below).

However, I am looking at it and the design of the blade we have and the receiver hitch will be blocking the blade frame.

Are there any ideas on how to overcome this without loosing the receiver tube? I hate to do yet more fabrication, but it is looking like that is the only way around this one.

The only thought I can come up with is to cut out the cross brace of the blade frame and replace that somehow. The question is with what?

One idea would be to use heavy angle in a triangle pattern (angle as opposed to flat bar/plate as the 90deg legs will resist flexing at the point of the triangle, whereas a bent plate/flat bar would have more of a tendency to bend there). The goal would be that "triangle" point is far enough in towards the blade that it opens up the space for the receiver hitch to clear.

*The picture is as we got the blade. I cut it apart, straightened it, and welded it back together so it is functional, not this twisted heap you see. However, this is the best picture I have right now that shows the frame interference I am talking about with the cross bar between the lift arm pins.

3 point adapter

View attachment 4770994

Would it work if you welded a square tube just behind the pins, then cut out the center section of the cross member? Maybe add a plate welded to top of the remaining portion of the frame member and the square tube?

 

[Rustyiron]

Friendly PSA
After you have continued using "3ord" with all of the respondents using the correct "3rd" .....
On a loader valve there's 2 functions, up/down of the main boom is one function.
The 2nd function is to control the bucket "curl" or dump and curl up to carry.
The usually optional "3rd" or third function is for control of a cylinder(s) say on a grapple.
You may confuse someone who you might be trying to help you gather parts.
We all here know what you mean.
Pardon me if this is an auto correct gremlin.

 

[Carl_NH]

Well then, if your going to "hack up" the 3PT blade, and move that cross member back, might add a receiver tube to the blade too - would make it easy to move around without connecting the 3PT arms.

But before you make all these mods, just install the blade in the back and plow snow with the FEL and the rear blade? Would give you the counterweight you need too.

 

[FlyFishn]

But before you make all these mods, just install the blade in the back and plow snow with the FEL and the rear blade? Would give you the counterweight you need too.

I want to plow going forwards with a moldboard, not a bucket.

If I put the blade on the rear I would be going backwards. I did that with the old tractor and it was a pain in the neck, and back...

 

[Carl_NH]

I plow with my Kubota just fine with the rear blade - I have a front blade now too, but for years, ran it with the bucket and rear blade, driving forward angled at 30*.

The rear blade is the cleanup blade now in forward or reverse.

 

[FlyFishn]

I made some head way on the blade mounting. We have a functional set up.

The loader to 3pt adapter doesnt fit the loader well - it appears to be about 1/16"-1/8" too narrow. I can squeeze the loader with a big clamp enough to get it to work, though.

Until I get the hydraulics it is operable manually for now.

This thing sticks WAY out there. But it will beat plowing snow backwards. Just needs hydraulics now.

 

[CH4Ohio]

For way less than the cost of the cylinders, you could find a used Meyer snowplow moldboard and A-frame with cylinders and adapt that. You already have a plate there that you could attach to, or buy a separate dedicated plate for $100. That would have your cylinders, angle solution, trip springs, better geometry for snow, and if mounted properly with an arm and chain holding the weight, it will float better and NOT tear up your loader and the ground/surface. You don't need the truck mount end or the loop that the lights and hydraulic pump sit on. Also don't need any of the controls or wiring. Just the blade, A-frame, and the attached cylinders with hoses.

Just saying, if you're spending money to fabricate and buy parts, might look at a snowplow. Last one I bought was $200. 7.5' plow in very good shape to replace a rusty blade that I've been using. They're cheap and plentiful around here. (Most people buy a new plow when they switch trucks I guess, or they're moving to V-plows and pushers.) Depending on your tractor size, a 2-meter plow might be a better fit. They can also be found in poly material if you prefer. They stick out in the front, but so does the setup in your pic.

Just a suggestion. My concern with what you have there is the amount of weight and down-force you'll have on your blade, and by extension, your loader. I bought a regular snow-plow that was set up with a rigid frame -- didn't have a chain to lift when you curl the bucket like a regular truck mount. It broke the first morning that I was using it in heavy snow. Good thing too, cause I didn't realize how much weight it was carrying. If the top angle on the plow mount hadn't been the weak link, something much more expensive would have broken instead. When the blade hits resistance and starts to dig in, even in float, the weight of the loader arms will tend to roll it forward instead of letting it ride up-and-over.

For the same reasons, I would never try to do heavy ground work with the setup in your picture. Your loader is not a bulldozer. Would be better to try to use the bucket to do dirt work within reason. Seems a shame to tear up the loader and frame on a new tractor.

As several posts above have mentioned, lots of people move snow with REAR blades while driving forward. Your bucket can pick some up as you go -- if needed, but the rear blade angled will move snow to the side. Lots of people use the back of the blade too. It never digs in and will float along better but still moves snow pretty well. Just takes some trial and error.

When I look at the pic of your tractor from the front, I'd put money on your entire loader frame twisting over time. On the bright side, at least the boom and curl cylinders are nearly fully retracted when you're in the "plow position". Otherwise I'd bet that they would end up bending first.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck with it.

 

[FlyFishn]

Quick notes for now:
This blade and machine combo will only be for light materials, no grading/bulldozing - front or rear mount.

We will get separate implements for grading - box blade, smaller rear blade, etc.

There is a PVC pipe that slides on the cutting edge to keep the gravel in place on the drive. This will also help to reduce the chances of the blade catching on things like tree roots.

 

[FlyFishn]

Well we got hit with the big snowstorm. The town reported total is a hair over 16". Thank God we got the plow operational when we did. That was the tool of choice out here.

There was a Ham radio event called Field Day this weekend and we were set up in our camp. Saturday night I drove back there with the bucket expecting to dig out. That was the case. I opened up the initial path with the bucket then when I got back to the barn I switched to the plow.

The whole route is about 1/4 mile from the road to camp. With the plow, even though the snow was so deep it spilled over the top of it, it was wonderful being able to drive that 1/4 mile each way and not scooping and dumping every 50-100ft like the 1st pass with the bucket. That was painfully slow.

Even though we dont have hydraulics on this thing yet it was very much a blessing to have the past 2 days. We cant really push any more snow off to the sides. If I try the piles just spill over the blade and right back to where they are now. So if we get hit again I may need to move them with the bucket. Or just let the trail close in. Maybe spring will hit and it will melt instead

 

[Carl_NH]

Glad its working out for you! Time to take the deck off - or do use that to blow snow too

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I think he needs the extra weight for traction ...

 

[FlyFishn]

Glad its working out for you! Time to take the deck off - or do use that to blow snow too

I didn't get a chance to reply yesterday. That deck is another close to 500lbs of ballast - not necessarily for "traction" with the 4wd, but it helps with the stability with the weight hanging on the front. We don't have an ideal rear weight yet, its either a 2 bottom plow or a 5.5' brush hog - and those hang way out there. So for now the deck is what it is. We can get by with it a bit better than the other options at the moment. This is all "new" so we are pretty much just starting somewhere and rolling with it - hence not having hydraulics on the plow, either. At least that is operational manually. It did the job we needed it to do. As did the mid mount deck ballast.