Snow Attachments Rear Blade Rubber

[msb1766]

I have been using a rear blade on my asphalt driveway for over 10 years with problems or damage, the only thing I did was grind the corners of the blade round,
so when the blade is angled it does not have a sharp corner to dig into the asphalt.

 

[jgayman]

I have been using a rear blade on my asphalt driveway for over 10 years with problems or damage, the only thing I did was grind the corners of the blade round,
so when the blade is angled it does not have a sharp corner to dig into the asphalt.

That's a good idea. Another thing that will help prevent the corners digging in is to adjust your 3PH lift links so that the blade is perfectly level side-to-side. If it is not level it will cause one of the corners to hang down when you angle the blade. When it's level you can angle it 45-degrees without the corners digging in.

 

[CobyRupert]

That's a good idea. Another thing that will help prevent the corners digging in is to adjust your 3PH lift links so that the blade is perfectly level side-to-side. If it is not level it will cause one of the corners to hang down when you angle the blade. When it's level you can angle it 45-degrees without the corners digging in.

...or let the "tilt" function of the blade float too. That is, if it has manual tilt pull the pin; or hydraulic tilt use the SCV that has a float position. This will keep the blade level if the ground isn't flat.

 

[msb1766]

I also replaced the side links with chain so it the blade will float and not bind.

 

[CobyRupert]

I also replaced the side links with chain so it the blade will float and not bind.

Hmmm, I've never heard of that. What do you mean by side links? The linkage that lifts the lift arms/draft link (called lift arm leveling assembly on this picture)?

 

[msb1766]

In the picture posted above I replaced Lift Arm Leveling Assembly with chain.

 

[CobyRupert]

In the picture posted above I replaced Lift Arm Leveling Assembly with chain.

I understand that this allows the lift arms to ride up above their set point (-chains goes slack), but not below the level you set them at.
...but....
..most 3 point hitches have no down force. Wouldn't your 3 point hitch do this anyways (with solid links)?

That is, if you grab at where the top of your chains connect (at the rockshaft (?) that rotates up to lift the chains ), can't you rotate this up without moving any control levers?

 

[chim]

So far the fixed length parts of my 3PH haven't been a problem. All three scraper blades of mine have enough slop added up in the connections between the blade and the rear axle that they allow for plenty of movement to follow the surface I'm running over. I use the 3PH dropped all the way and allow the blade to float. One end of the blade could likely be 6" higher than the other.

IF somehow all the play could be eliminated, the lift arms do move together, so I guess chains could be useful. I can't think of anywhere other than one of those test tracks used for testing shock absorbers where the surface so close behind the tractor's rear wheels could be uneven enough relative to the rear axle to matter.

 

[jwalk2c]

I used horse mat from TSC .
Longer bolts to bolt it in front of the existing cutting edge. I made mine to thick (hangs down about 4" below cutting edge and sometimes folds back under but still functions.
If I redesigned I would allow the material to only protrude 1 inch below steel cutting edge. Btw, use a box cutter to cut. Don't try the hard method as I did using an air cutoff wheel and just make a mess.
Box cutter with a sharp blade and several passes works fine.
I think there is a pic of another one somewhere on this site.

 

[jmc]

We cut a strip from a used tire and sandwiched it between the blade and the removable cutting edge for a tractor at work. It is the tread portion of the tire and is much more durable than a cow mat. only cost is labor. The guys love it because the exposed rubber bends out of the way when the blade goes over lumps and bumps.

Good point on the wear resistance. How did you cut the tread portion off and keep a straight edge that sits flat on the ground? I've got a steep, paved drive with about 1/2 inch deep tracks all the way up where the asphalt deformed under tire pressure. I'm looking for a "squeegee-plow".